When it comes to the birth of new calves, things sometimes go differently than planned. From difficult labor and delivery to dealing with sick, cold newborns, when you’re expecting a pregnant cow to give birth, you need to be prepared for any scenario. Make sure your calving kit is fully stocked and ready to go prior to the due date of the first calf so that even if it’s born early, you’ll be prepared. Our calving supply checklist is a great guide to help you make sure you have everything you need this calving season!
Veterinarian Contact Information
If you plan to own and breed cattle, you’ll want to make sure you know who your local farm veterinarian is and keep their contact information on file in case of an emergency. It’s not uncommon for a cow to require assistance to deliver her calf; however, sometimes, if the farmer cannot get the calf out, a veterinarian must be called to the farm to perform emergency measures.
Notebook & Pencil
Keep a detailed record of important information, including breeding and due dates, so you have a rough idea of when to expect calves. Record newborn calves’ birth date, sex, birth weight, and any additional information such as the ID numbers of each cow and calf pair, whether or not a bull calf has been castrated, and any health issues noticed.
Calving Pen
Calving areas should be sheltered from cold weather, have clean straw or shavings for bedding, and ideally have a functional chute in case of emergencies requiring medical intervention. Make sure your calving pen has adequate lighting and keep a flashlight close by in case you need to inspect a cow or calf. Stock up on dust-free chopped straw or wood shavings at your local Feeds ‘n Needs.
Heating & Drying Sources
Since they are born covered in amniotic fluid, calves must be quickly dried and warmed up after birth to prevent them from developing hypothermia. A cow should be allowed to lick her calf clean after delivery; however, in cases of cold weather or if the mother does not clean her baby, have towels and blankets ready to dry the calf off and stimulate blood circulation. If a newborn gets chilled, have a warming box or other heat source like hair dryers and heat lamps ready to use to get the calf warm. Use a thermometer to keep track of calves’ temperatures, especially if they are sick or hypothermic. Always sterilize thermometers after use.
Gloves & OB Lubricant
Keep boxes of long and short disposable gloves to protect you and your animals from bacteria entering the body, and always change gloves between working with different animals. If a cow requires assistance delivering her calf, have lots of regular obstetrical lubricant on hand to lubricate the birth canal and your gloved arms to reduce friction and swelling. If your cow may require a C-section, avoid using J-lube to try and get the calf out, as it is toxic to the peritoneal cavity and will be fatal to the cow.
Halter, Rope & OB Chains
Ensure you have clean OB chains and handles ready in case you have to intervene and assist a cow during delivery. Additionally, have a halter and long rope prepared for laying down a cow to make delivery easier.
Disinfectant
A 7% iodine solution or chlorhexidine should be used to dip the calf’s navel after birth to keep it clean and disinfected. Additionally, you can add these disinfectants to a bucket or squeeze bottle of water to create wash water for cleaning the cow after delivery. Roll cotton soaked in this disinfectant water also works well to wash the cow.
Colostrum & Milk Replacer
The colostrum, or “first milk” a pregnant cow produces, is rich with antibodies and nutrients, which are vital for her calf to receive in the first 4 to 6 hours after birth. Calves should be standing and nursing on their own within 1 hour. Otherwise, you may need to intervene. If you are worried that a calf is not getting colostrum, or if you have a calf too weak to nurse on their own, frozen colostrum or dried colostrum mixed with warm water should be readily available to administer to the calf. Colostrum replacer products should contain a minimum of 100g of lgG per dose. Keep powdered milk replacer on hand for calves that will be bottle fed. Trust Feeds ‘n Needs to provide you with the best quality powdered colostrum and milk replacers to help your calves grow and thrive.
Feeding Supplies
A flexible stomach feeding tube and large syringe may need to be used to administer colostrum to weak or sick calves that are unable to suckle. Be sure to sterilize supplies between calves or keep a second stomach tube on hand to feed sick calves only. Additionally, keep bottle feeding supplies like calf bottles and extra nipples on hand to bottle feed calves that are stronger and able to suckle.
Needles & Syringes
Keep an assortment of sterile needles and syringes in your calving kit for administering supplements, vaccines, antibiotics, or other medications as per your veterinarian’s recommendation.
Use a bulb syringe to suction amniotic fluid out of newborn’s noses so they can breathe.
Injectables & Supplements
Administering supplements of the vitamins A, D, E, and selenium, as well as a mix of electrolytes for calves, is recommended for newborns. Our experts recommend the AVL Vitaferst-Care oral neonatal supplement for ruminants to give your calves the best start at life. Medications and vaccinations can be administered as per your veterinarian’s recommendation. Additionally, it’s always beneficial to keep scour pills or a prevention solution on hand in the event a calf develops scours and requires immediate treatment. If you do not have access to scour pills from your vet, we recommend administering Calf Renova at the first signs of diarrhea or Calf Perk to get a cold, weak calf to its feet after birth. Ask your local Feeds’ n Needs experts about product availability.
ID Equipment
Each head of cattle in Canada is required to have a registered CCIA tag before being transported from their farm of origin. These can be bought from an authorized dealer like your local Feeds ‘n Needs store. In addition to CCIA tags, you may want to tag your cattle with an on-farm ID tag, which should be done within the first few days of a calf’s life as cows sometimes swap calves, making future genetic selections inaccurate if calves were not tagged at birth. If you plan to give your calves tattooed ID numbers, ensure all your equipment is clean and in good working order.
Elastrator Rings & Tool
If you plan on castrating bull calves, you will need to make sure you have elastrator rings and the proper elastrator tool. Castration of bull calves is typically done between 1 week and 5 months of age. Be sure to record which calves are being castrated and which are not.
When it comes to calving, expect the unexpected and always be prepared. Stop by your local Feeds ‘n Needs to pick up some essential calving kit items so that you’ll be ready when the first calf arrives!
Disclaimer: Feeds ‘n Needs is not qualified to give medical advice or recommendations; please consult your veterinarian for any concerns, vaccine recommendations, etc.
Lambing Supplies Checklist
The arrival of new lambs can be exciting and busy, so the best way to guarantee a smooth lambing season is to ensure you are well-prepared in advance. In this blog, we will review the essential supplies that every shepherd should have on hand before the arrival of any lambs.
Notebook & Pencil
Have a notebook to record all contact between ewes and rams, and use a gestation table to calculate approximate due dates. Knowing roughly when to expect lambs to be born allows you to ensure you have all supplies on hand at least a week before due dates.
Use this notebook to keep track of other things, such as ewe and lamb ID numbers or colors, any health issues you have noticed, etc.
Lambing Pen
Ewes and their newborns should have an isolated pen away from the rest of the flock for the first several days after birth to allow a safe place for them to bond. The pen should be at least 5’ x 5’, and bedding should be kept clean and dry to prevent infection, especially after lambs are born.
Lighting
Keep bright flashlights or headlamps nearby if your barn does not have great lighting. If a lamb arrives at night, you’ll need a good light source to assist the ewe and her newborn.
Heat Sources
Newborn lambs are susceptible to hypothermia, so several methods to warm a chilled lamb can be vital to survival. Hair dryers, warming boxes, and heat lamps are all great ways to get a lamb warm after birth when used with caution. You can also place a lamb’s body in a plastic bag with its head sticking out and sit it in a warm water bath to quickly raise its body temperature without affecting its smell.
Digital Thermometer
Monitor lamb’s temperature to ensure it isn’t too cold or sick. A normal temperature for a lamb is 38.8°C to 39.4°C, if the temperature drops below 37.7°C, the lamb is hypothermic.
Towels and Paper Towel
Lambs are born covered in amniotic fluid which the mother ewe should clean off. While this is important for their bonding, you may need to assist the ewe and help get the baby dry using towels or paper towels to prevent the lamb from getting cold.
Bulb Syringe
The use of a bulb syringe may be required to suck any amniotic fluid out of a newborn lamb’s nostrils after birth to allow it to breathe.
Iodine Spray or Dip
Whether or not you decide to cut a newborn lamb’s umbilical cord using sterile scissors, the navel can serve as a pathogen pathway to a lamb, and it is vital that the area be kept clean. Use a 10% iodine spray or dip solution to keep the area disinfected, and make sure that the lambing pen has clean bedding.
Lubricant
Keep some OB lubricant on hand in case it’s needed. This can be helpful to lube up a thermometer, getting a lamb’s head unstuck during birth, or lubricating your arm and any needed birthing tools if the ewe requires help while giving birth.
Gloves
Keep boxes of long and short gloves to use when handling lambs and ewes to prevent bacteria from entering your body. Be sure to use different gloves when handling different sheep to avoid the potential spread of infection.
Colostrum & Milk Replacer
Lambs need to nurse during the first 24 hours of their life to receive the nutrients and antibodies from the ewe’s first milk, called colostrum. Before a lamb can nurse, you must strip the wax plug from the ewe’s teats and ensure her milk flows. If a lamb is rejected by its mother, or if you have a lamb that is too weak to nurse, have powdered or frozen colostrum that you can warm and feed to them as they must receive this vital colostrum within their first 8 hours of life. It is also a good idea to keep a lamb milk replacer on hand in case of a rejected lamb that may need to be bottle-reared.
Feeding Supplies
A flexible stomach feeding tube and large syringe can feed weak or cold lambs that can’t suckle on their own. Additionally, keep bottle-feeding supplies on hand, including lamb bottles and nipples, to feed stronger and able-to-suckle lambs, such as a triplet or rejected lamb.
Needles & Syringes
Have a variety of sterile needles and syringes to be used to administer any injectables or vaccines as recommended by your veterinarian.
Injectables & Supplements
Injectable vitamins A, D, and E with Selenium may be given after birth, as well as injectable antibiotics or vaccines per your veterinarian’s recommendation. Additionally, it can be beneficial to keep a propylene glycol solution on hand to help an exhausted ewe regain her energy after birth. This is especially helpful for ewes who have given birth to twins or triplets.
Elastrator Rings and Tool
If you plan on castrating ram lambs not intended for breeding, you will want to make sure you have elastrator rings and the appropriate elastrator tool to castrate within the first week of the ram’s life. The same rings and tool can be used to dock a lamb’s tail. Unless you plan on leaving your lambs with their natural long tails, they will need to be docked within the first few days of their lives.
ID Tags & Applicator
Animals intended to be sold and shipped must have registered CCIA tags which can be purchased from an authorized dealer. You may also want to tag your lambs using a different tag to use as an on-farm ID. Use your notebook to keep track of animal ID’s!
Marker Crayons or Spray
Identify your animals more easily by marking your ewes and lambs with colored ID-marking crayons or sprays. Use this method to keep track of twin lambs, mother and lamb pairs, banded ram lambs, etc. Keep notes of your ewes and their lambs in your notebook.
Get prepared for lambing season with a trip to your local Feeds ‘n Needs! Our stores carry a variety of essential supplies to ensure that you can be well-prepared for the arrival of new lambs! Our Experts will be happy to help you find what you need!
Disclaimer: Feeds ‘n Needs is not qualified to give medical advice or recommendations; please consult your veterinarian for any concerns, vaccine recommendations, etc.
Easy Easter DIYs Using Eggs
Springtime is all about bright colors, new beginnings, and creativity. What better way to welcome the season and have some Easter-themed fun than decorating eggs? This blog provides a step-by-step guide to making three easy Easter crafts that the whole family will love!
Blowing Eggs
Before starting any of our Easter egg DIYs, you’ll need to remove the yolks from all the eggs you’ll be working with.
What You’ll Need:
- Eggs
- Pin (you can also use a needle or sharp metal skewer)
- Cocktail stick or wooden skewer
- Paper clip (optional)
- Bowl
Step 1: Using your pin or needle, carefully poke a hole in the top and bottom of your egg. Gently insert your cocktail stick or skewer into the hole to gradually increase its size. The hole in the bottom of the egg needs to be big enough for the yolk to pass through, but be careful not to crack the egg in the process.
Step 2 (Optional): Use a straightened paper clip to “stir” the yolk inside the egg, making it easier to blow through the hole you made.
Step 3: Hold your egg over a bowl and blow as hard as you can into one of the holes in your egg. The yolk should start coming out the other end. You won’t need the yolk for these projects, but you can set them aside to use for cooking later!
Step 4: Now that the yolks are out of the eggs, rinse them under hot tap water to remove any residue. Once rinsed, leave the shells out to dry.
DIY #1 – Painting Eggs
Test your painting skills by getting creative with eggs! Paint stripes, patterns, splatters, and more! The design options for this DIY are endless!
What You’ll Need:
- Eggs with yolks blown out
- Acrylic paint
- Cocktail stick or skewer
- Paint brushes
- Sponge (optional)
Step 1: Insert a cocktail stick or skewer into the bottom hole of your egg to keep it away from your fingers while you paint.
Step 2: Use paintbrushes or a sponge to apply paint to your egg. Get creative with this part!
Step 3: Let the paint dry while your egg is still on the skewer by holding the skewer in a glass.
Step 4: Once your paint is dry, add a second coat to brighten the colors or add more designs! Leave your egg on the skewer until you are done painting and the egg is dry.
DIY #2 – Dyeing Eggs
Use food coloring or natural dyes with ingredients from around your home to create beautiful, dyed eggs that are the perfect Easter decorations! We will teach you how to dye eggs using food coloring for this DIY.
What You’ll Need:
- Eggs with yolks blown out
- Vinegar
- Food coloring (your choice of colors)
- Measuring spoons
- Kitchen tongs
- Paper towels
- Heat-proof bowls (one bowl for each color of food coloring)
- Crayons (optional)
Step 1: Prep your work area by laying down paper towels to prevent food coloring stains.
Step 2: To make your dyes, bring some water to a boil, then add 1 teaspoon of vinegar and about 20 drops of food coloring. The more food coloring you add, the more vibrant your dye color will be. Pour your mixture into a heat-proof bowl deep enough to dip your eggs in.
Step 3 (Optional): You can use crayons to create fun patterns and designs by drawing directly on the egg before you dye it. The dye pigment will not stick to the wax, so whatever you draw will stand out after you dip your egg!
Step 4: When you’re ready to dye your egg, use a pair of kitchen tongs to submerge the egg into your bowl of coloring. Make multicolor eggs, striped eggs, patterned eggs – You can be as creative as you want with this part!
Step 5: Remove your eggs from the dye using your kitchen tongs and set them out to air dry when finished.
DIY #3 – Jello Filled Eggs
This DIY project is a fun way to make a tasty treat that can also be a great April fool’s prank! You can paint or dye your eggs before you add the Jello to add to the fun and make this a 2-part project or leave them plain and give someone a surprise when their egg turns out to be Jello!
What You’ll Need:
- Eggs with yolks blown out
- Packets of Jello (Your choice of flavor)
- A fine pastry tip
- Egg carton
- Duct tape
Step 1: Use a small piece of duct tape over the hole in the bottom of your eggs to seal it closed, then place your eggs tape-side down back into the carton.
Step 2: Follow the instructions on the package to prepare your Jello mixture. Try making different flavors to add variety to your eggs!
Step 3: Once your Jello mix is ready, insert a fine pastry tip into the top hole of your egg and carefully pour the liquid Jello into the egg. Be careful not to overfill the egg, as the liquid will be hot.
Step 4: Once you’ve filled all your eggs, place the carton in the fridge to allow the Jello to set. This should take 2-3 hours.
Step 5: Once the Jello has set completely inside your eggs, open the shells and enjoy this tasty Easter treat!
Have fun and get creative this spring using everyday kitchen items and eggs from your own backyard! From all of us at Feeds ‘n Needs, we hope you try these Easter DIYs and have a great time making them!
Sources:
https://www.marthastewart.com/275626/egg-dyeing-101
https://www.marthastewart.com/266591/blowing-out-an-egg
Garden Projects for Spring
The weather is getting warmer, and it’s finally time to start making your garden plans! It’s not quite time to plant yet, but you can begin many other projects in the spring to ensure your garden is ready to roll once the frost is gone!
Create a Garden Journal:
Keep track of what you’ve planted in the past, what grew well and what didn’t, where you planted things last year so you can rotate crops, tape seed package tags to pages, sketch out garden bed ideas—the list goes on! Keeping a detailed journal of your garden is a great way to help you remember what worked well for you in previous years or even new ideas you might like to try!
Start Seeds Indoors:
Many seed varieties, especially those that take longer to grow, such as tomatoes and peppers, can be started indoors. Plant your seeds in a shallow container about 2 to 3 ½ inches deep with drainage holes. Peat pots, pellets, paper cups, or shallow compartmented trays all work well.
Use a soilless seed starting mix, ideally made up of peat, perlite, vermiculite, and added nutrients. These mixes are light, improve drainage, and aid water retention, making them best for seedling germination.
Follow the planting directions on your seed packages to determine the depth in which to plant your seeds. Then, place your seed containers in a warm location (ideally 18 – 22 degrees Celsius) where they will have access to light for about 12 to 14 hours per day. Keep the soil moist and cover the seed pots or trays with plastic or damp paper towel to allow seeds to germinate.
Start a Compost Bin:
Commonly called “black gold,” compost does wonders for the soil and plants growing within it. Made up of recycled matter such as kitchen scraps and lawn clippings, compost adds vital nutrients to the soil, helping to maintain its structure, porosity, and density, maintain proper pH balance and moisture, and even prevent weeds! Composting is a great way to prevent unnecessary waste from ending up in landfills, helping your soil and plants thrive!
Test Your Soil:
Test your soil for deficiencies before you plant! Pick up a soil test kit at your local Feeds ‘n Needs to test your soil’s pH, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash levels. The plants you grow need to be able to get their nutrients from the soil they grow in, so if your soil’s nutrient levels are too high or too low, it could cause problems down the road that are much easier to identify and fix before you plant!
Prepare Your Pots and Containers:
Make sure you have all the pots and containers you will need for all the planting you plan on doing. If you have containers that you used last year, get rid of any old soil and scrub them down with powdered laundry detergent and water. Once clean, disinfect the containers with a mixture of bleach and water. If you are new to planting or just need some new planting essentials, we carry a variety of plant pots, containers, and seed-starting kits!
Clean Your Tools:
Before you can start tending to your garden, make sure that all your tools are cleaned up and ready to go. Wash off any dirty tools and check their condition. If some of your tools have become rusty, try soaking them in a solid black tea bath or use sandpaper or a wire bristle brush to shine them up again. Take this time to tighten up any screws or bolts that may have come loose on any of your tools as well.
Our Experts know how exciting it is once the snow melts and gardening season is just within reach. But don’t forget to take advantage of springtime to make sure you have everything ready and planned out. We want to help you ensure that when it comes time to plant, you are more than prepared! Stop into your local Feeds ‘n Needs and check out our gardening section. We’ve got everything you need to prep, plant, and maintain your garden!
For more helpful gardening tips and tricks, check out our related posts!
Link 1 – Gardening Tips for Beginners
Link 2 – How to Sprout Your Own Seeds
Link 3 – Garden Planning for Spring and Summer
Sources:
https://www.almanac.com/content/3-simple-diy-soil-tests
https://www.farmandfleet.com/blog/early-spring-lawn-garden-projects/
https://www.housebeautiful.com/lifestyle/gardening/a31747273/easy-gardening-projects-spring/
https://www.countryliving.com/gardening/garden-ideas/a30753842/how-to-start-seeds/?psafe_param=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=arb_ga_clv_md_pmx_hybd_mix_ca_18700871953&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5svmw6P0hAMVdpJoCR1xhwOBEAAYAyAAEgKKOfD_BwE
https://www.veseys.com/ca/growing-from-seeds?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_bmPoqz0hAMV55KDBx11XwRdEAAYAiAAEgIhLvD_BwE
Predator Proofing Your Chicken Coop
When owning chickens, keeping your birds safe should always be a priority. Unfortunately, these birds have a rather lengthy list of predators who won’t hesitate to harm your flock if the opportunity arises. It is important to ensure your coop is a safe place for your birds. This blog covers all the basics of predator-proofing your chicken coop, from proper fencing to locking up feed bins.
Know The Predators:
Familiarizing yourself with the wildlife in your area that may pose a threat to your chickens is ultimately the first step in knowing how to protect them. By doing this, you will have a better idea of any potential weak areas in your coop that need to be reinforced to prevent these predators from breaking in. Some common chicken predators include foxes, coyotes, raccoons, weasels, rats, and birds of prey, but depending on your location, these predators may differ.
Inspect Your Coop:
Check your coop regularly for any areas that a predator may easily breach. Inspect all coop structures, including doors, windows, walls, roof, and floor. Predators are often capable of fitting through tiny holes, so use hardware cloth secured by washers and screws to cover up any cracks or holes in your coop structure, as well as any windows. Keeping all windows locked and adding a complex lock to the coop door will help prevent raccoons from opening them, as they are known for their cleverness.
Fencing:
Whether you have a fenced-in run attached to your coop or a large area where your chickens can free-range, ensuring your fence is secure and won’t allow predators through is essential. Our experts recommend using hardware cloth with ¼” holes or smaller when building a fence to protect your chickens. Chicken wire is typically flimsy and has larger holes that predators can easily get through, so investing in a sturdier wire will better protect your flock. When putting up fencing in a run or a larger fenced-in area, bury the wire 6 to 12 inches underground to deter digging or burrowing predators. An alternative to burying your wire is to create an “apron” of hardware cloth which extends 12 feet outward from the base of your fence. Check out our selection of different fencing options at your local Feeds ‘n Needs!
Prevent Aerial Attacks:
Digging and burrowing predators aren’t the only ones threatening your chickens. Birds of prey such as hawks, vultures and owls are also a danger to your flock while they are outside in their run or when free-ranging. Cover the top of your run or fenced area with hardware cloth or a solid roof to prevent aerial attacks from these predators who fly overhead. Ensure that your covering does not leave gaps between it and your fence, as climbing predators could squeeze through.
Secure Food Sources:
Easy access to your chicken’s feed is an almost guaranteed way to attract predators to your area. Keeping all chicken feed and other food sources locked up in metal bins with secure lids will help to keep rodents and other predators out of it. Keep chicken feeders inside the coop to avoid spilled feed on the ground outside, which would surely draw in predators.
Lock up at Night:
Most predators of chickens are nocturnal, meaning they are active at night. This is when your chickens are the most vulnerable since they are defenseless as they sleep. If your flock free ranges during the day, ensure everyone is back inside before nightfall and that the coop door is latched securely each night with a lock that predators cannot open.
Motion Sensor Lights:
Since most predators are nocturnal, mounting a motion sensor light on or around your coop may startle them, deterring them from coming closer and making attempts to break in.
At Feeds ‘n Needs, we know the best defense against predators is a secure coop and fence. Check out the fencing options available at your local Feeds ‘n Needs, and be sure to ask our experts any questions about how you can keep your birds safe year-round. We’re happy to help!
For more tips, tricks, and information about raising and owning chickens, check out our related blogs:
Hen’s Health Throughout the Seasons
Prep Your Coop for Chicks
Livestock Bedding Options
Essential Gardening Tools for Beginners
If you’re new to gardening, you may be wondering where to start. Before you can plant your garden, it’s helpful to have all the essentials you’ll need to ensure that your garden’s preparation, maintenance and harvesting are easy and hassle-free. Our list of the top 12 essential gardening tools is an excellent guide for first-time gardeners looking for a place to get started:
Gardening Gloves:
Keeping your hands clean, dry, and safe while you work. A good pair of breathable and waterproof gardening gloves is a must-have for every new gardener.
Garden Hoe:
A garden hoe is a useful tool for cultivating the garden, stirring up and mounding soil, and dislodging weeds. You can buy multiple types of garden hoes, each better suited to a specific task.
Garden Fork:
This tool comes in handy when getting your vegetable plots ready for planting. Garden forks come in different shapes and sizes but are generally used for breaking up stony soil, aerating sod and digging up root crops.
Shovel:
Shovels serve many purposes when gardening or working around the yard. A sturdy, long-handled shovel is perfect for digging large holes, moving and turning soil, digging out perennials to divide or transplant, and so much more. This is one tool you’ll definitely want to have on hand!
Garden Rake:
A long-handled tool with a wide head and teeth on the end, a garden rake works well to break down soil into a fine tilth that’s best for planting seeds. These rakes are also useful for getting rid of debris in your soil.
Spade:
Garden spades are essential tools for landscapers and come in handy in the garden, too. Used to break through ground and chop through tree roots and tough soil. Spades are helpful when excavating gardens, removing clumps of grass or roots, and cutting garden margins. These tools can also be used for soil aeration and turning soil.
Hand Trowel:
An invaluable tool in the garden, hand trowels are perfect for digging small holes for seeding and transplanting, turning small amounts of soil, and digging up weeds. Try finding a trowel with depth measurements to help you out when planting!
Hand Cultivator:
While these tools are available in various sizes, keeping a small handheld cultivator in your gardening tool kit will be helpful when you first start out. Great for reaching smaller areas where large tools won’t fit, hand cultivators have teeth that are perfect for pulling up pesky weeds between plants and digging or breaking up soil.
Pruners:
A good pair of hand pruners is perfect for trimming small branches, cutting through roots, and dividing root balls. There are various hand pruner options, with certain types better suited for specific tasks, and some even designed to minimize muscle strain and discomfort while using them.
Scissors:
A good, sharp pair of scissors serves many purposes while working in the garden. You can use them to deadhead flowers, harvest vegetables, snip herbs, cut twine or ties holding up plants and even cut open packages of seeds or fertilizers! The uses for this tool are endless!
Zip Ties or Twine:
Useful for securing plants to a support system like trellises, stakes, cages, fences, etc.
Hose & Watering Can:
Once you plant your garden, watering your crops as they grow is a daily task. A garden hose and nozzle with multiple watering settings are essential to ensure that your plants get the water they require to grow. A watering can is also beneficial to supply water to areas where your hose may not reach.
Having the proper tools on hand will make your time in the garden more efficient, precise, and safe while ensuring your plants’ health and maintenance. Stop by your local Feeds’ n Needs to view our selection of various garden tools, Vesey’s seeds, soils, and fertilizers. Let our Experts answer any questions about getting started in the garden!
For more expert advice on getting your garden started, check out our related blogs:
Garden Planning for Spring and Summer
Small Animal Dental Health
As responsible small animal owners, it’s our job to educate ourselves on the proper care needed to ensure our pets’ health and well-being, including taking care of their dental health.
Did you know many small mammals, such as rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas, have open-rooted teeth? Meaning that throughout their entire lives, their teeth never stop growing! Because of this, these animals are more at risk of acquiring painful dental issues such as tooth overgrowth, abscesses in the mouth, and malocclusion (misalignment of the teeth).
Early Detection is Key
Because they are prey animals, it’s in the nature of our small pets to hide any signs of pain or illness they may be experiencing. This can make early detection difficult, so taking your small pets to be examined by a veterinarian at least once per year is recommended. A vet specializing in exotic pets will be able to thoroughly examine your pet and identify any issues that should be treated immediately to ensure your pet’s good health.
Between checkups, it is important to familiarize yourself with the normal appearance of your pet’s teeth and know what symptoms or behaviours could indicate possible dental issues.
Symptoms to Watch For:
- Noticeably overgrown teeth
- Difficulty chewing or dropping food from the mouth
- Watery eyes, nasal discharge or drooling from the mouth
- Weight loss
- Reluctance or refusal to eat
- Reduced grooming and/or bald patches of fur
- Visible signs of pain (i.e., hunching in a corner, grinding teeth, etc.)
Prevention
Thankfully, most forms of acquired dental disease in small animals are preventable with proper diet and care. For small herbivores like rabbits and guinea pigs, a diet that lacks free-choice hay is arguably the most common cause of these dental issues.
- Hay vs. Pellets – Because hay is high in fibre and stimulates natural chewing and dental wear patterns, various grass hay options should always be available to your herbivorous animals. While many pet parents still consider hay more of a treat for their small pets, at least 75% of their diet should be made up of it, with fortified pelleted food being fed daily in a measured amount (following the manufacturer’s direction.) We offer a variety of grass hay and pelleted foods to provide your small pets with the proper diet they require.
- Leafy Greens and Vegetables – Supplementary foods such as dark leafy greens and vegetables have a coarse consistency, which will help your small animals keep their teeth worn down and should be offered to them in a limited amount daily. Ensure that the vegetables or greens you give your pet are safe for their particular species.
- Chew Toys – Besides providing a proper diet, species-appropriate chew toys should also be available to your small pets. Toys and chews made from woven hay, untreated wood, dried sticks, or cardboard provide excellent opportunities for your pet to wear down their incisors while offering them enrichment and mental stimulation. We have a great selection of safe, natural chews to keep your pet busy while keeping their teeth healthy!
Visit one of our Experts at your local Feeds ‘n Needs store to see our great selection of small animal essentials and ask any questions you may have about proper dental care. We are always eager to help!
Tips to Prevent Leash Pulling
Does your dog constantly pull on their leash during walks? Has it made walking with them become a dreaded task? We’ve been there too, and we’re here to help! Training your dog to have good leash manners can be difficult and time-consuming, but it is never too late to start. With the right tools, tricks, and patience, even the worst pullers can be trained to walk with a loose leash!
Invest in Equipment
Having the right equipment to walk your dog can make a huge difference when it comes to pulling. If you train your dog to stop pulling on the leash during walks, investing in quality, no-pull collars, harnesses, and leashes will be key to your success.
No-Pull Harnesses: Fitting your dog with a harness with 2 points of connection helps prevent the dog from pulling all their weight forward and putting you both out of balance. Connecting a leash to the dog’s chest and back enables the handler to “steer” the dog in their desired direction and encourages the dog to walk in balance with you. Products such as Halti’s no-pull or front control harnesses paired with their versatile Halti training lead have proven to be successful for many of our customers looking to teach their dogs to stop pulling.
Headcollars: These collars are built with one loop that goes around your dog’s nose and a strap that secures around the back of their head. A leash with two clasps to connect to the collar and the noseband is designed to discourage pulling by giving you control of the direction in which your dog walks. With the leash attached to the dog’s noseband, handlers can create tension when the dog tries to pull forward and redirect their attention back to where you want them to go. Gentle Leaders and Halti Headcollars are created to do this while ensuring your dog’s comfort.
Training Tips
Location & Frequency:
- Begin your training sessions in a quiet area with minimal distractions. Going for short walks daily rather than a couple of long ones throughout the week will be beneficial, as repetition is important in successful training.
- Try to pick a time for your walks when your dog may have less energy, such as later in the evening.
- The less excitable your dog is during your training sessions, the more responsive they will likely be to your instruction.
Treats:
- Having treats on hand to reward your dog when they follow your commands and behave how you want them to is a useful tool to enforce a positive association between them and good leash manners.
- Oven Baked Tradition dog treats are soft and chewy treats that make the perfect reward during training sessions. They are low in calories and have several irresistible flavours to choose from. Find these treats and more at your local Feeds ‘n Needs!
Attention & Focus:
One of the most important things to incorporate into dog training is demanding your dog’s attention. When going for a walk:
- Remain still and quiet until your dog gives you their attention. Once they are paying attention to you, you may begin walking.
- If your dog moves too far ahead of you, stop walking before they put tension on the leash and wait for them to return their focus to you.
- Offer them a treat when they give you their attention or to help encourage them to walk beside you.
- Consistency and patience are key to this method.
Verbal Commands:
Before you begin teaching your dog proper leash manners, make sure they understand basic obedience commands such as “sit,” “stay,” “come,” etc.
These commands are helpful while leash training as they can be used alongside the attention and focus strategy. If your dog starts to pull, stop and wait for their attention, then give them a command such as “sit” or “heel.” If they perform this command for you, reward them with a treat before releasing them to start walking with another command, like telling them, “okay.”
Try out some of these training tips next time you take your dog for a walk, and remember that consistency is critical with this training!
Visit your local experts at your nearest Feeds ‘n Needs location to check out our great selection of quality leashes, no pull harnesses, headcollars and more! We are always happy to answer any questions you may have!
Prep for New Chicks Arrival
Getting ready for the arrival of baby chicks can be an exciting but also an overwhelming time. Making sure you have everything prepared before welcoming your new flock is beneficial in ensuring your chicks get the best start in life. From setting up your brooder to transporting your birds, this article will break down all the basics to help you feel confident in preparing to bring your chick’s home.
Preparing Housing for Chicks
Brooder Options:
The setup required for housing your chicks can be simple. When deciding what to use as a brooder (the space in which your chicks will live), you’ll want to choose something sturdy, large enough to comfortably house your chicks, and, ideally, inexpensive. Because of how rapidly baby chicks grow, they need to be moved into larger housing units as they get bigger. A strong cardboard box, Rubbermaid tote, or kiddie pool are all suitable options if they provide enough space. If you have pets or small children in your household, consider covering your brooder with hardware cloth or chicken wire to prevent accidents and keep chicks from escaping as they grow larger.
Bedding Material:
The bedding you use for your baby chicks should be absorbent, easy for them to walk on, and not slippery. Paper towels or puppy training pads are great options to use for the first 5-7 days after getting your chicks as they meet all these requirements. These options also make it easy to monitor if your chicks are eating since the smooth, white surface makes droppings visible. Bedding should be changed frequently to ensure your chick’s environment stays clean and dry.
Heat Source:
Since baby chicks do not yet have their feathers, they cannot regulate their own temperature. A constant heat source must be provided for them. The most used heat source for baby chicks is a heat lamp with a 250-watt infrared heat bulb. This should be secured over top of their brooder box; however, some alternate heating options include radiant heat plates or simply keeping the brooder in a small room with the heat turned up enough to keep them warm.
Food and Water
Once you have prepared a housing unit for your chicks to be placed in upon their arrival, it is time to prepare their food and water. Baby chicks require access to food and fresh water at all times and will likely be very thirsty following their journey to their new home. The feeder and waterer that you choose for your chicks should be small enough to fit in your brooder without overcrowding and easy for your chicks to access. It is important that you change your chick’s water several times per day to ensure that it stays clean. Spot clean or add fresh feed as needed if contamination occurs. Use caution if using an open water source for your chicks, as they are at risk of accidental drowning and contracting diseases related to fecal contamination.
*Pro Tip – Adding clean marbles or rocks into the bottom of the chick’s water dish and elevating it slightly from the ground while they are young can help prevent accidents and contamination.
Food Options:
We pride ourselves on providing feed to help your chicks thrive from day one. Chickens require different feed formulations throughout their life stages, and when it comes to baby chicks, we carry two options:
- Medicated Chick Starter – A crumbled formulation containing the medication amprolium. This medication helps fight off coccidiosis, a disease that is spread through fecal contamination and is deadly to baby chicks. See bag for feeding instructions.
*Note – If raising meat birds, switch to unmedicated feed at four weeks old to ensure no medication is present when they are processed.
- Plain Chick Starter – A crumbled feed formulated to meet the nutritional needs of young chickens without added medication. See bag for feeding instructions.
Now that everything is ready for your chick’s arrival home, it’s time to pick them up. When bringing chicks home, you must have a secure way to transport them. Ensuring they have a smooth, non-stressful ride home will help your chicks transition quickly into their brooder environment.
An ideal container to bring your chicks home in should meet the following criteria:
- Has a solid bottom and four walls
- Small enough that chicks won’t stumble around and fall
- Large enough to fit chicks without them being on top of each other
- Lined with a paper towel or similar bedding to absorb any messes.
You should now be well on your way to becoming an expert in caring for baby chicks, and before long, you will be reaping the rewards of all your hard work! Visit one of our experts in-store to learn more about preparing for chicks, and be sure to check out our wide range of products and feed to find everything you need to get started!
Sources:
https://www.thehappychickencoop.com/how-to-feed-meat-chickens/
https://oakwayfarmandgarden.com/page/page-2/?permalink=how-to-keep-baby-chicks-warm
https://backyardpoultry.iamcountryside.com/feed-health/how-long-do-chicks-need-a-heat-lamp/
https://the-chicken-chick.com/baby-chick-basics-what-you-need-to-know/
How to Brush Your Dogs Teeth
Brushing your dog’s teeth for the first time can be intimidating, and you may be wondering where to start. Having their teeth brushed is an unnatural feeling for dogs, so you must be diligent in taking all the proper steps to ensure that your dog is introduced stress-free.
Your local experts at Feeds’ n Needs will gladly help you select the proper tools to help you get started brushing your pup’s teeth!
What you’ll need
- Dog toothbrush or finger brush
- Pet safe toothpaste
- A soft cloth or piece of sterile gauze
- Your dog’s favourite treats
Introducing your dog to teeth brushing should be done gradually over several sessions, and depending on your dog, it can take a week to several months to accomplish successfully. Only do as much as your dog will tolerate during one session, and be sure to reward them through the entire process.
How to Brush Their Teeth
Step 1:
- Make sure your hands are clean before you begin, then find a quiet place where you and your dog will be comfortable without any distractions.
Step 2:
- Offer your dog a taste of the pet-safe toothpaste you will be using by putting a small amount on your finger and letting them lick it off.
Step 3:
- Using your finger, gently rub a bit of toothpaste onto the outer side of the dog’s upper teeth in a back-and-forth motion. Your dog may only tolerate a few seconds of this, so it’s best to focus on only a few teeth at first.
Step 4:
- Once your dog is comfortable with step 3, use a soft cloth or sterile gauze over your finger to brush the toothpaste onto your dog’s teeth. Go slow and focus on brushing only the outsides of the teeth. Most of the plaque and tartar buildup occurs on the outer sides of the teeth, so brushing the inner sides should only be done once your dog is very comfortable with brushing their teeth.
Step 5:
- Next, it’s time to introduce the toothbrush or finger brush to your dog. Apply a pea-sized amount of toothpaste to the brush, and holding it at a 45-degree angle, gently lift one side of your dog’s lips and begin brushing. Use circular motions and start with the teeth at the back, slowly working towards the front on each side. Once your dog feels comfortable with this, you may also begin brushing its bottom teeth during your sessions. To brush the bottom teeth, gently tilt the dog’s head back, allowing their mouth to open slightly. You can use your finger to hold the lip away from the teeth, then repeat the same brushing process that you did on the top. It is recommended to brush each side for 30 seconds if your dog allows it.
Step 6:
- Thoroughly rinse your dog’s toothbrush after every use, and wash your hands to avoid spreading any harmful bacteria. Pet toothbrushes should be replaced every three months, and NEVER use the same toothbrush on multiple pets.
Praising your dog and rewarding them with treats throughout every step will help to reinforce their positive association with having their teeth brushed. We carry a wide variety of healthy treats that your pup will find irresistible, even while having their teeth brushed!
For more information on the importance of dental health in pets and what you can do to prevent dental disease, check out some of our other helpful blogs!
