As the cold weather sets in, horse owners face the unique challenge of keeping their equine companions safe, comfortable, and healthy throughout winter. From managing their shelter and nutrition to ensuring proper grooming and exercise, this guide will walk you through the key steps to help your horse thrive during the colder season. With a bit of preparation and attention to detail, you can ensure your horse stays warm, safe, and happy all winter long.
How Do Horses Keep Themselves Warm?
Horses are naturally well-equipped to handle cold weather, as they can regulate their body temperature within a range of 5°C to 25°C. When temperatures drop below 5°C, horses will increase their natural defences against cold by:
- Eating more forage.
- Managing their blood flow, reducing flow to the limbs and pooling most of their blood to their core and vital organs.
- Growing a thick winter hair coat.
- Increasing movement and shivering.
- Seeking shelter.
Several factors may contribute to how well your horse manages the cold, including their age (if they’re very old or young), if they are clipped, whether they have access to shelter, etc. If not properly cared for during the winter, a horse’s body condition may backslide, making for an unhealthy and underweight horse come spring.
Winter Feeding
One of the main ways that horses can keep warm during winter is by eating. The process of microbial fermentation of forage in a horse’s digestive system generates heat in their body. Horses will burn more calories in the winter to stay warm, so compensate for this by feeding them more forage. It is recommended to feed horses 1.5% – 3% of their body weight in forage during the colder months.
Water Intake
One of the challenges of caring for horses in the winter is their disinclination to drink water. This means that dehydration is a great concern in the winter, so finding ways to entice your horse to drink is very important. Most 1000 lb horses require at least 10 -12 gallons of water per day, and the following tips should help you get your horse to drink their daily requirement:
- Install a bucket heater or trough deicer to keep water from freezing
- Increase your horses salt intake by offering a free-choice salt lick in their stall or add a loose mineral supplement to their feed.
- Consider adding electrolytes to your horse’s water to help prevent dehydration
- Keep water clean and fresh for your horse
Provide Shelter
Access to shelter is crucial for helping horses withstand colder temperatures and stay protected during the winter months. A run-in shed provides an important buffer against extreme weather conditions like wind, rain, and snow, which can quickly lower their body temperature and lead to discomfort or health risks. By providing a safe place to retreat from the elements, horses can tolerate lower temperatures and help them stay healthy and comfortable throughout the winter season.
Reducing Ice Buildup
Icy conditions in winter pose slipping risks to not only us but our equine companions as well. It’s essential to be aware of freeze-thaw patterns and stay on top of preventing ice buildup in places your horse frequents, such as stalls, around their water trough, north sides of buildings, paddocks, etc. A few of the ways you can be proactive in preventing and reducing ice buildup are:
- Repair leaky rain gutters on barns or run-ins that drip and form ice.
- Avoid spilling water when filling troughs and repair any leaks that may drip.
- Remove snow from frequently used pathways and paddocks to decrease water buildup and frozen puddles.
- Reduce the amount of manure in the paddock, as it is prone to freezing and will leave you with a muddy mess in the spring!
- Improve your paddock’s grade by building up sunken ground where water may pool and freeze in the winter.
- Create traction in icy areas by putting down shavings, straw, sand or salt. Refrain from feeding horses near where you spread sand or salt, as they may eat it off the ground. Always make sure your horse has an alternative source of salt if you choose to spread pure salt to melt the ice.
Winter Hoof & Health Care
Horse hooves require lots of attention during the winter to ensure potential issues can be addressed quickly. Keep these tasks on your winter horse care to-do list:
- Regularly pick out hooves to remove snow buildup and inspect them to ensure there is no bacteria or infection in the crevices of the frog.
- Although hooves grow slower in the winter, they should still be trimmed every 6-8 weeks.
- Consider removing metal shoes and allowing your horse to go barefoot in the winter. Going barefoot gives your horse more traction on icy winter terrain.
- If you do keep your horse shod in the winter, consider adding metal studs or snow pads to their shoes.
- Ensure horses have access to a dry place to stand and dry their hooves. Hooves that are wet for extended periods of time can lead to rot and infection.
Along with regular hoof care, there are a few other health maintenance tasks to be aware of in the winter to ensure your horse is in the best health:
- Deep mud and snow make it near impossible for your horses’ legs to fully dry off, leading to skin conditions like mud fever. While providing a place for your horse to stand and dry off can help prevent this, we still recommend that you check over your horse’s legs and hooves daily for signs of disease or infection.
- Heavy hair coats and blankets can sometimes hide weight loss, so we recommend regular body condition scoring to check your horse’s weight and assess their health.
Blanketing
Not every horse needs to be blanketed in the winter. Some horses are well-equipped to handle the cold without a blanket. However, blanketing may be necessary for a horse for the following reasons:
- No shelter is available to protect from the elements during turnout when the weather drops below -15 C.
- The horse is clipped.
- The horse is very young or old.
- The horse has a body condition score of 3 or less.
- The horse isn’t acclimated to the cold.
- If there is a chance the horse will become wet due to rain, freezing rain, or calm, warm snowfall.
If you are trying to decide whether to blanket your horse in the winter, we recommend speaking to your equine veterinarian about the best decision for your horse.
If you blanket your horse, make sure that it fits them well to prevent rubbing and sores, and remove and reposition the blanket daily. Always ensure the blanket stays dry, and never put a blanket on a wet horse, as this can lead to infection or fungal diseases such as rain rot.
Exercise
Horses need regular exercise in the winter to get their blood flowing, reduce boredom, raise body temperature, and, of course, stay fit, happy and healthy. Provide lots of turnout time for exercise, and if possible, enjoy a wintertime ride when the weather is nice! One thing to consider when exercising your horse in the winter is cooling them out. Leaving a hot, wet horse to stand in the cold without properly being cooled out can lead to illness.
How to Cool Out Your Horse
Following your ride, walk your horse for 10-15 minutes to allow heat in their muscles to dissipate. Once you’ve dismounted, loosen the girth or cinch, but don’t remove the saddle yet, as cold air can cause warm muscles to cramp. Cover your horse with a cooler to help wick the moisture away while you walk them for a few more minutes. Remove the saddle, but put the cooler back on while you continue to walk your horse for a bit longer until they are cooled down.
Proper winter care is essential to keeping your horse healthy and comfortable throughout the colder months. From adjusting their diet to reducing slipping hazards, every detail matters. For more advice and top-quality products to meet your horse’s winter needs, visit us in-store – our experts are here to help you every step of the way!
For more expert advice and horse care tips, check out our blog!
Horses Hoof and Skin Health
Deworming Your Horse
Importance of Fiber in a Horses Diet
How to Care for Chickens in Winter
As temperatures drop and snow blankets the ground, it’s essential to ensure your feathered friends remain healthy and comfortable all winter long. From preparing the coop to keeping waterers from freezing, this blog will guide you through the best practices for keeping your chickens happy and healthy throughout winter.
Manage Drafts & Insulate the Coop
Give your coop a thorough inspection, checking for any cracks or holes allowing air to flow through the coop. Straw or newspaper can be stuffed into cracks or holes to seal them and prevent drafts. Ensure your coop is well insulated before the temperature drops to keep your flock warm on those chilly winter nights. Insulating can be as easy as covering your coop with old carpets, blankets, burlap, or cardboard.
Ensure Adequate Ventilation
High moisture combined with cold temperatures can cause condensation within a coop, potentially leading to frostbite. To prevent moisture and condensation buildup in your coop, you must ensure that your coop is well-ventilated. Besides regularly cleaning up manure to remove excess moisture, there are several ways to ventilate a coop in the winter:
- Install roof vents to allow moisture to escape.
- Cover partially opened windows with burlap to allow for air movement while keeping the coop insulated.
- Open a door or window on warmer days.
Bedding Maintenance
As we discussed, keeping moisture at bay is vital when caring for chickens in the winter. Did you know that chicken manure is made up of 70% water? Because of this, cleaning up manure buildup in your coop regularly during the cold months is essential. Remove soiled bedding and replace it with fresh, dry bedding frequently. Alternatively, the deep bedding method, which involves adding 4-6 inches of bedding to the coop and regularly stirring the top layer to allow manure to move to the bottom, can provide some natural heat as the manure decomposes.
Prepare Roosts & Small, Warm Spaces in The Coop
Roosts provide a place for chickens to sleep up off the cold floor of the coop. When perched on a roost, chickens can lay on their feet and fluff their feathers out to keep themselves warm. Ensure your coop has enough roosting space for each chicken to sleep comfortably. A good rule of thumb is to have 9 inches of roosting space per chicken.
If you have a large coop, consider creating smaller areas inside where your chickens can huddle together and conserve their body heat more easily. Something as simple as a cardboard box or plastic tote turned on their side can provide a warm area for your hens while in their coop at night.
Supplemental Heat & Light
When temperatures begin to fall below freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit, 0 degrees Celsius), consider adding a supplemental heat source to your coop. Things like heat lamps, brooder plates, etc., can keep your flock warm on cold winter days; just be sure to only use products approved for use around livestock and always follow safety instructions. In addition to adding a heat source, adding a source of light to your coop can help encourage egg production as the days get shorter in the winter. Supplemental lighting can often be hooked up to a timer to ensure your hens receive 14 hours of light each day, starting in the morning hours before the sun rises. As the days gradually get longer, adjust your timer as needed.
Fresh Water & Food
Chickens need access to fresh water year-round, but wintertime is challenging when keeping waterers from freezing! Thankfully, there are several products available to prevent this from happening:
- Heated waterers that plug into an outlet
- Heated bases that you can place metal waterers on
- Chicken waterer deicers that can be placed inside certain styles of waterers
- Heated dishes or buckets
Get in the habit of checking your chicken’s water throughout the day to ensure it has not frozen. It’s a good idea to keep a spare waterer on hand in the winter so that if one freezes or breaks, you have another one ready to go. As for feeding chickens in the winter, they can remain on their regular diet; keep in mind that their feed intake may increase by up to 25% in the colder months, so don’t be afraid to keep their feeders full. Additionally, store feed in moisture-proof containers like a metal garbage can to prevent spoilage.
Egg Collection
Because eggs contain a high percentage of water, make sure to collect them quickly in the winter so they don’t freeze. Typically, hens will finish laying before noon. As you collect each egg, check for any cracks or hairline fractures, and discard any damaged eggs you find to prevent foodborne illness.
Frostbite
Frostbite typically affects the areas of a chicken that are not protected by feathers, like their comb, wattles, and feet. Frostbite can cause affected areas to appear black or gray and feel brittle. For minor cases of frostbite, you can remove the chicken from the rest of the flock and soak the affected area in room temperature water to slowly warm the area. Apply a layer of Vaseline or petroleum jelly to these at-risk areas in the winter to provide a layer of insulation and prevent frostbite damage. Severe cases of frostbite can lead to infection or worse, and veterinarian treatment is highly recommended.
How Will I Know if my Chickens Are Cold?
When a chicken’s body temperature drops below average (106 degrees Fahrenheit, 41 degrees Celsius), they may experience cold stress, leading to reduced egg production and, in severe cases, death. When chickens are cold, they may exhibit the following behaviors:
- Huddling together for warmth
- Holding a foot up to their breast
- Puffing out their feathers
Winter is coming, so it’s time to prepare by following our guide! Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs, where you can find all the winter essentials from heat lamps, light bulbs, heated waterers, bedding and more! Chat with our Experts today to ensure your flock thrives this winter.
For more poultry care content, check out our other blog posts!
Livestock Bedding Options
How to Care for Molting Chickens
Hens Health Throughout the Seasons
Growing Sprouts Year-Round
Growing sprouts from seeds is something we can all do— regardless of space, time or gardening experience. Sprouts are highly nutritious and packed with vitamins, minerals, and so much more! They can be easily germinated on your kitchen counter. They will be ready to eat in just a few days, and you can grow them all year round! You don’t have to have a green thumb to grow sprouts; you just have to add a small habit to your daily schedule and grab a couple of supplies to get started.
What Are Sprouts?
A sprout is exactly what it sounds like—a germinated seed. It’s a seed that’s been soaked and allowed to sprout, but instead of growing into a full plant, it’s harvested and eaten during the early sprouting stage.
The Benefits of Growing Sprouts
Sprouts Grow Fast
Since we’re harvesting the plants at their earliest growth stage, there’s no need to wait for them to develop roots, flowers, or fruit. You can enjoy your first batch of sprouts in just a few days.
Sprouts Don’t Require Much Space
You can grow enough sprouts to toss in your salads and sandwiches in a small space, such as next to your kitchen sink.
Sprouts are Super Nutritious
When you eat sprouts, you get the seed’s initial nutrition. All those vitamins and minerals that would have eventually spread to dozens of leaves, stems, and fruit can be enjoyed in just one bite. The exact nutrients you’ll get will depend on the type of sprout you’re eating.
Sprouts Can be Grown Year-Round
You can start growing sprouts when ever you like. It doesn’t matter if the ground is frozen or a storm is coming. Sprouts are not affected by the weather outside, only by the environment you create for them inside. That means you can enjoy the garden-fresh flavour all year long, no matter where you live.
Most Common Sprouting Seeds
While you can technically sprout just about any seed, nut or bean/legume, the most common seeds to sprout and eat are:
- Mung beans
- Lentils
- Alfalfa
- Clover
- Radish
- Broccoli
- Sunflower
- Peas
Some seeds can be dangerous to sprout and eat raw, such as kidney beans and tomato seeds, which are two examples of seeds that produce toxins when sprouted. Always stick to using designated sprouting seeds, such as Mumm’s Sprouts, available at Feeds’n Needs.
What You Need to Grow Sprouts
1. A wide-mouthed jar
2. A bowl or drain rack that allows you to invert the jar at an angle.
3. A sprouting lid, or some screen or netting with a rubber band.
5. Freshwater. If you would drink the water then it’s fine to use!
6. Seeds with good germination, preferably grown for human consumption.
Step-by-Step How to Grow Sprouts
Soaking
Put 1-2 tbsp of small seed, or ¼ – ½ cup of large seed in the jar. Rinse with water and drain. Add water to the jar and let the seeds soak in the jar for approximately 2 hours (broccoli family), 6 hours (small seeds) or 12 hours (bigger grains or beans) in enough water to allow them to swell completely. Affix your sprouting lid or screen and rubber band. After soaking, pour out the water through the screen.
Sprouting
Place the jar away from direct sunlight upside down and on an angle to allow the excess water to drain out and air to circulate. Rinse twice daily.
Harvesting
If you sprouted beans or grains for 2 days, they are now ready to eat without a final rinse, and leftovers can be stored in the fridge. After 4-5 days of sprouting, leafy sprouts should be rinsed as usual, grown for half a day, and stored in the refrigerator.
Storing
Well-drained sprouts should be kept in the fridge for up to 10 days. Optional: put folded paper towel on top of the sprouts in the jar. Put the lid on and refrigerate turned upside down to remove excess moisture.
Ways to Use Sprouts
Sprouts are a fantastic and healthy addition to salads, sandwiches, soups, stir-fries, and smoothies. Try adding alfalfa sprouts to sandwiches with deli meat, fresh tomatoes, and avocado for a nutritious boost. For a spicy kick, toss some radish sprouts into your next salad. You can also use sprouted beans instead of regular soaked beans in bean salads for extra nutrition, or even make sprouted bean chilli! Add bean sprouts to stir-fries for a crunchy, nutritious twist. The possibilities are endless, and you can easily swap sprouts for their full-grown or seed counterparts in nearly any recipe. Growing sprouts is a great way to grow food indoors year-round and opens up endless opportunities to experiment with healthy, homemade dishes.
Happy sprout growing!
Your Complete Cat Food Buying Guide
Your feline friends are an important part of your family, so why not feed them like your family too? Buying the correct type of food can lead to a longer, happier, and healthier life for your cat. To help with your complete cat food buying guide, we’ve put together some key details below to keep in mind!
Life Stages
Kittens and adult cats have very different nutritional needs. Look for life stage descriptions when reading labels. If the label says “complete and balanced for all stages of life,” that particular food is safe for a kitten and adult cat. You’ll also find cat food designed only for “adult maintenance,” which is meant only for adult or senior cats. Kitten food will be made for “growth and reproduction” as it generally has more protein, fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. The higher amount of nutrients helps with proper growth and a healthy weight.
Ingredients
When buying cat food, it’s important to read through the ingredients. Protein, such as chicken, tuna, salmon, turkey, etc., should be within the top three ingredients, as they are listed in order by weight. Cats get their nutritional requirements from meat sources, so their diet must be meat-based. Flavour is also an essential factor. Look for food with specific proteins listed, such as beef or chicken, over generic terms like “meat-flavoured,” as cats aren’t fond of plant-based flavours and thrive on a diet consisting primarily of meat. When choosing the “right” flavour for your cat, chicken is the most popular choice as it is incredibly gentle on a cat’s digestive tract and is often enhanced with essential nutrients that improve their health. Another option is turkey. Like chicken, turkey-flavoured cat food is also easily digested. Every flavour comes with its own set of benefits; for example, fish-flavoured food should contain a healthy dose of Omega 3s.
Whether you should choose grain-free food for your cat is debatable. Grains contain carbohydrates, which your cat can use as an energy source. If you do choose to feed your cat grain-free due to allergies, their food can still be full of other carbohydrates, such as potatoes, for an extra energy source.
Specialty Food
There are many different cat food options available that help with health conditions. Premium cat food companies, such as Hills Science Diet and Royal Canin, have created specialty formulas that help cats battle mild health conditions, including urinary care, hairballs, sensitive stomach, and weight control. Consult with your veterinarian before putting your cat on a regimen of these kinds of cat food.
Dry Food vs. Canned Wet Food
When it comes to types of cat food, you have two options: wet and dry. Wet food is recommended for felines who show a lack of interest in drinking directly from the bowl. However, too much wet food intake can cause them to gain excess bulk, resulting in various health complications. On the other hand, dry food improves oral hygiene and costs less than its wet counterpart. Both dry and wet cat food have pros and cons.
Dry Cat Food:
Pros
- Less expensive
- Can be left out all-day
Cons
- Less moisture
- Less protein
- More carbs
Wet Cat Food:
Pros
- High moisture content
- More Protein
- Fewer carbs
Cons
- Easily spoils if left out
- More expensive
We recommend feeding your feline a combination of dry and wet food—dry food to keep costs down and wet supplies to help increase palatability. Mixed feeding is also beneficial because it’ll prevent your cat from developing a strict taste for a specific diet.
You now know what to look for when buying cat food. The next step is to work with your veterinarian to ensure the food you plan to purchase is appropriate for your cat’s needs. Cats’ dietary needs can vary depending on breed, life stage, and medical history.
Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to find a wide range of different cat food brands and formulas! Our experts are here to help answer any questions you may have.
For more information on your cat’s health, check out our other blogs!
Pet Obesity Awareness
Benefits of a Raw Diet
Hidden Sugars in Dog Food
How Hidden Sugar in Your Dog’s Food Can Affect Their Health
Did you know that there is a hidden ingredient in most processed dog foods that can seriously affect their health? That’s right, your dog may be consuming large amounts of sugar and starch without you even realizing it! In this blog, we will uncover the truth about hidden sugar in dog food and its impact on pet’s health.
The Role of Starch in Processed Dog Foods
According to AAFCO (Association of Food Control Officials), there is no minimum amount of carbohydrates required for dog food, and this is because they are not required for your dog’s health. So, if this is the case, why would pet food companies still put starch in their processed kibble? The answer is simple – it’s necessary for the process used to produce the kibble. When exposed to heat and moisture, starch gelatinizes and helps to bind the food together when it’s made into its final form.
The Hidden Ingredient – Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates are sugar molecules that come in the form of sugars (simple carbohydrates), starch, and fibre. When carbohydrates are eaten, the digestive system breaks them down into glucose. Glucose is sugar in the blood which the body can use for energy.
Understanding The Glycemic Load
The glycemic load of food refers to how much that food will raise blood sugar levels after it is eaten. When the glycemic load of food is high, it can cause a rapid spike in blood sugar levels, which triggers the production of insulin in the pancreas. Insulin is produced to move sugar from the blood into cells, which lowers blood glucose levels. The speed at which food is digested can impact how quickly blood glucose levels spike, triggering insulin production. It’s worth noting that carbohydrates may be digested slower if the food is high in protein and fat, meaning that blood sugar won’t rapidly spike, and insulin won’t be produced.
The Impact of a High Glycemic Load
Insulin Spikes & Obesity – As we previously discussed, when your pet eats food with a high glycemic load, it can cause a rapid spike in blood glucose levels, leading to insulin production. Insulin works to lower blood glucose levels by moving sugar from the blood and into the cells of the body, where it can be used for energy or stored as fat to be used later. Over time, eating high glycemic foods can increase blood glucose levels to be higher than your dog needs for energy, and will end up being stored as fat that is never used. This can lead to obesity and, in severe cases, can lead to insulin resistance and diabetes.
Gut Health – Harmful bacteria thrive on sugar, so when your dog eats a high-carbohydrate diet, these harmful bacteria can start to outnumber the good bacteria. This imbalance of bacteria can lead to many issues like leaky gut syndrome, autoimmune diseases, and malnutrition. Since the good bacteria in your dog’s body are responsible for making many vitamins and minerals in the intestines, when harmful bacteria outnumber the good, it can cause malnutrition, despite your dog eating a healthy amount of food in a day.
Yeast Infections – Yeast, a type of fungus, also thrives on sugar, so when your dog eats a high-carb diet causing an imbalance of bacteria, it can cause the yeast to colonize and grow out of control. This overgrowth of yeast can lead to infections which can be either local (present in one area of the body), or systemic (spread throughout the body). These yeast infections are commonly misdiagnosed as allergies or food sensitivities.
How to Calculate the Glycemic Load of Dog Food
Since carbohydrate content isn’t required to be listed on dog food packaging, how do you figure out how much is in the food? Calculating the glycemic load of a food is simple. Just look at the guaranteed analysis on the bag and add the total percentage of fat, moisture, protein, and ash (Ash is usually between 5-8%; use 7% if not listed). Once you’ve added these numbers, subtract that total from 100%.
- Ex: 11% fat + 12% moisture + 35% protein + 7% ash = 65
Now calculate 100 – 65 = Glycemic load of 35%
Glycemic Load Levels:
High – 20+ glycemic load
Medium – 11-19 glycemic load
Low – 0-10 glycemic load
How Can You Find a Low-Glycemic Dog Food?
Since carbohydrates are necessary for dry kibble production, finding one with a low glycemic load can be difficult. An excellent choice for the lowest possible GL would be to feed a raw diet as they don’t require any starch for production. Feeds’n Needs is proud to offer Big Country Raw pet food at all our retail locations. Another option is to choose a food high in protein and fat, such as Acana or Orijen pet foods. The high amount of protein helps prevent your dog’s blood glucose and insulin levels from spiking. Choosing a food with the lowest possible glycemic load can prevent many potential health concerns, so it’s worth taking the extra time to calculate the percentage when looking into a new food for your dog.
If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! You now have a better understanding of the complexity of hidden sugars in dog food. Having this knowledge is critical to making informed decisions when it comes to choosing a food that is best for your pet and their health. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to chat with one of our experts about our different food options and let us help you choose the perfect one for your canine companion!
Eager to learn more about pet health and nutrition? Check out these blogs!
Benefits of a Raw Diet
Pet Obesity Awareness
Pet Seasonal Allergies
Sources:
Healthy Foods for Diabetic Dogs | Dogabetix
Do Dogs Need Carbs? | Dog Food Advisor
Hidden Sugars in Dog Food: The Silent Health Threat – Human & Pets (humanandpets.com)
Is The Sugar in Your Dogs Food Slowly Killing Them? (acabonacfarms.com)
How Hidden Sugars In Your Dog’s Food Are Making Them Sick (theluckypup.com)
Low-Glycemic Dog Food by Canine Nutritionist | The Canine Nutritionist
Importance of Fiber in a Horses Diet
Why is Fiber Important in a Horse’s Diet
Fiber is one of the most important components of a horse’s diet, and as an equine owner, it is essential to understand why. Let’s take a look at why it is important and what can happen if your horse isn’t getting enough fiber in their diet:
Why Do Horses Need Fiber – Fiber provides up to 70% of a horse’s energy needs while maintaining gut health and encouraging natural grazing behaviors.
Daily Fiber Requirements – While no daily fiber requirement has been established for horses, nutritionists recommend feeding a minimum of 1.5% of your horse’s body weight in dry forage to maximize their fiber intake.
Different Types of Fiber – There are many different types of fiber in the equine diet, each with varying nutritional profiles and degrees of hindgut fermentation. These include lignin, pectins, gums, cellulose and hemicellulose.
Sources of Fiber – Horses mainly get their daily fiber requirements from forages like hay and pasture grass; however, fiber can also be obtained from processed forage products like beet pulp and soybean hulls.
Fiber Deficiency in Horses – A horse’s gastrointestinal tract is a huge, complex organ. Insufficient fiber intake can lead to severe issues such as hindgut acidosis, gastric ulcers, dehydration, colic, stereotypic behaviours, etc.
As fellow animal lovers, we know that your horse’s health and well-being are top priorities, which is why we are committed to providing our customers with the best quality feed and forage products. Stop by your local Feeds‘n Needs to check out our line of premium horse feeds and accessories; your horse will thank you!
Check out our other horse-related blogs here:
Maintaining Your Horses Health
Deworming Your Horse
Horses Hoof and Skin Health
Basic Guide to Gerbil Care
Gerbils are playful and curious little animals that are easy to care for and make great pets for children. In this blog, we will provide a basic guide to gerbil care, so you have all the information you need before bringing home your tiny new companion!
Things to Consider Before Getting a Pet Gerbil
- Gerbils are very social animals and should live in pairs of 2 or more. It’s best to get littermates or adopt young gerbils of similar ages so that they can grow up together. If you already have a gerbil or pair of adult gerbils, it can be challenging to introduce a new one as they are very territorial creatures and may fight each other.
- Gerbils can reproduce quickly, so it’s best to keep only same-sex pairs together in an enclosure.
- The lifespan of a gerbil is 2 – 4 years on average.
- Adult gerbils grow to 4 inches long, with their long hairy tails adding an additional 4 inches.
Housing
Gerbils are known for their love of digging and burrowing, and a great way to nurture these natural instincts is to house your gerbils in a large glass tank or aquarium with a secure wire lid. It is recommended that 5 gallons of space be provided per gerbil. An enclosure that is 16″ wide by 30″ long and 12″ tall is the minimum size needed for a pair of gerbils.
Wire cages will also work to house gerbils. However, because of their digging habits, they may end up kicking bedding through the metal bars, making a mess. Make sure to choose a wire cage with bars narrow enough that your gerbils can’t escape through them but not so close together that they could get body parts stuck between them.
Plastic cages are not recommended for gerbils as they are easily chewed and destroyed and don’t provide adequate ventilation.
Gerbils should also have a nest box in their enclosure where they can hide out and sleep. Nest boxes should be made of sturdy materials like wood or ceramic.
Bedding
Since they love to dig and burrow, fill your gerbil’s enclosure ¾ of the way full with bedding like small animal paper bedding or aspen shavings. Avoid using pine or cedar shavings, as well as bedding that has been chemically dyed, as these can be harmful to your gerbils.
You can also add additional nesting materials like dye and scent-free toilet paper, paper towels and tissues that your gerbils can shred and build nests with. Spot-clean any soiled bedding daily, and thoroughly clean the enclosure with mild soap and hot water once weekly. Pick up some Boxo comfort paper bedding and gerbil-safe aspen shavings at Feeds’n Needs!
Food & Water
The best way to provide your gerbils with a healthy, balanced diet is to offer them quality dry food formulated for gerbils. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended feeding guide to feed your gerbils a daily portion of food. Place their daily food allowance in a ceramic or metal bowl or scatter it around their enclosure to encourage their natural foraging instincts! Fresh fruits, veggies and seeds like peas, broccoli, apples and sunflower seeds can be given as treats in limited quantities. Remove any uneaten treats after a few hours to prevent spoilage.
Your gerbils should always have access to fresh water in a sipper bottle that attaches to the side of their enclosure. Refresh their water daily, and thoroughly clean their water bottle once weekly when you clean their enclosure.
Pick up a bag of quality gerbil food, like Sunburst hamster and gerbil food, at Feeds’n Needs. While you’re there, don’t forget to grab some gerbil treats and a drinking bottle, too!
Exercise & Enrichment
Gerbils are playful and active little animals, and they need lots of enriching toys and climbing materials to keep them happy and healthy. Since their teeth never stop growing, they should always have access to things to chew on, like wooden toys, toilet paper tubes and other safe materials to wear them down. Include lots of things for them to climb and play on in their enclosure, like ramps, ladders and platforms to keep them active. Exercise wheels are another great way to keep them active and fit; choose a wheel with a solid surface in which your gerbils won’t get their tail or other body parts stuck.
Visit your local Feeds’ n Needs and check out our small animal toys and enrichment accessories selection!
Grooming
Gerbils spend a great deal of time grooming themselves and often groom their cage mates. They do not need baths; however, if your gerbil gets something in its fur and needs to be cleaned, you can use a damp cloth to gently rub the area clean.
Health Concerns
Gerbils are generally healthy animals. However, there are a few common health issues that you should be aware of:
- Injuries like broken bones or injured tail
- Digestive diseases
- Skin issues
- Seizures
- Kidney disease in adult gerbils
- Inner ear mass in adult / elderly gerbils
If you suspect your gerbil may be in poor health, please get in touch with your small animal veterinarian.
Training
Gerbils are usually quite gentle, only biting on the rare occasion that they may feel threatened. Gerbils can be easily hand-tamed using positive reinforcement techniques, often involving many treats! When you first bring your gerbil home, allow them a couple of days to settle in before you begin training them.
Now that you’ve learned all the basics of owning and caring for pet gerbils, you should be ready to bring home your new furry friend! Make Feeds’n Needs your go-to stop for all your small animal needs, and be sure to ask one of our experts any questions you may have!
If you love to learn, check out our blog. We are always adding more helpful advice, such as how-tos and DIYs: feedsnneeds.ca/experts-advice/
Understanding Heat Stress in Chickens
Heat stress is a serious concern that can severely impact the health and productivity of chickens in the summer months. As a responsible poultry keeper, understanding the causes, signs, and preventative measures of heat stress in chickens is essential to ensure the well-being of your birds, even on the hottest days. In this blog, you’ll learn all about heat stress and what you can do to keep your flock cool this summer.
What is Heat Stress?
Heat stress occurs when a chicken’s body temperature exceeds the normal range of 105°F to 107°F, which puts excessive stress on the chicken’s body systems. As the body temperature rises, this pressure increases which can lead to organ damage, decreased egg production and potentially death. Several factors can affect a chicken’s tolerance to heat, including age, breed, genetics, and whether or not preventative measures have been taken to avoid heat stress.
Causes of Heat Stress in Chickens:
While we know that rising body temperatures cause it, there are several factors that may cause heat stress in chickens:
- High ambient temperatures
- High humidity levels
- Poor coop ventilation
- Overcrowding
- Lack of shaded areas
- Lack of water access
- Age & breed of birds
What Are the Symptoms of Heat Stress in Chickens?
Knowing the signs and symptoms of heat stress is crucial to prevent illness and potential death in your flock. Let’s take a look at some of the telltale symptoms to watch for:
Panting & Rapid Breathing—During heat stress, chickens may exhibit rapid, open-mouth breathing in an attempt to dissipate internal heat.
Pale Comb & Wattles—Since the comb and wattles are the only parts of a chicken’s body that have direct skin-to-air access, extra body heat can escape through them, making the skin appear shriveled and pale.
Outspread & Drooping Wings—Holding their wings away from their body in a drooped position allows more airflow to their skin, releasing trapped heat through evaporative cooling.
Seeking Shade & Prolonged Resting—Most activity generates heat, so your chickens may seek a shady spot to rest during hot weather. You may notice them spending less time roaming and more time lying down and resting, and this is because they are trying to reduce heat production and conserve what little energy they may have. If your chickens become lethargic and aren’t moving, this may indicate that heat stress has progressed to heat stroke and immediate action must be taken.
Eating Less, Drinking More—Since bodily processes like eating and digestion generate heat through metabolic heat production, you may find that your chickens eat less during hot weather. However, they may increase their water intake by 2-4 times their normal amount when they are hot, as drinking cool water helps cool them down from the inside out.
Decreased Egg Production—High temperatures can take a toll on the reproductive function of hens, and they may stop laying eggs if their bodies experience heat stress. Additionally, because eggs are mostly made up of water, a dehydrated, heat-stressed hen won’t have enough body moisture to keep producing eggs.
Diarrhea—Heat stress can disrupt digestive processes in chickens due to reduced feed digestion and electrolyte imbalances. This can result in diarrhea, which may cause your chicken to become dehydrated from moisture loss in the body.
Increased Vocalization—Chickens in distress from heat stress may become more vocal as they try to express their discomfort and seek relief from the heat.
How to Prevent Heat Stress in Chickens:
Knowing how to prevent heat stress and being proactive in preparing for hot weather is imperative to the health and productivity of your flock during the summer months. By implementing these preventative measures, you could save your feathered friends’ lives!
Provide Lots of Water—Offer fresh, cool water to your chickens at all times and allow them to drink it freely. Try to place waterers in shady spots. You can even add a few ice cubes to the water to keep it cool for your flock. Just be careful not to add too many, as icy cold water may be a shock to the body of a hot chicken. Pick up some extra chicken waterers at your local Feeds’n Needs!
*Bonus—Offer cold treats to your chickens on hot days! Things like cold watermelon slices, ice cube treats with fruits and vegetables, or adding tasty snacks like peas or dried mealworms to a bowl of cold water are great ways to help your chickens keep cool and encourage them to stay hydrated.
Supplement Electrolytes—When chickens experience intense heat, their electrolyte levels can become imbalanced. Electrolytes are essential to maintaining normal bodily functions and hydration. On hot days, add a water-soluble electrolyte supplement such as Electrovite or Stress ADE to your chicken’s water to help maintain healthy electrolyte levels. Find these supplements and more at Feeds’n Needs.
Avoid Overcrowding—When many chickens are kept together in a crowded space, their body temperature is elevated by the temperatures of all the birds around them. This is why it is important to make sure that you can provide your chickens with lots of space, especially on hot days. If having them free range isn’t an option, ensure your coop or run allows 8 square feet per bird to prevent overcrowding.
Proper Coop Ventilation—Ensuring your coop is well ventilated to allow lots of airflow is important, especially on hot days when heat stress is a concern. When ventilating your coop, keep predator safety in mind and make sure no predators can get to your flock. If you are able to run electricity to your coop, consider setting up a fan to give your chickens an extra cool breeze!
Provide Shade & Cooling Measures—Make sure your chickens have access to shady areas to rest and relax on hot days! Whether it be natural shade sources like trees and shrubs or man-made shade sources like awnings or a tarp strung up over the run, your chickens will appreciate having a place to rest away from direct sunlight. Additionally, implement cooling measures like shallow pools of water or misters around the yard for your flock to take advantage of in the heat!
Adjust Their Feeding Schedule—Since eating and the whole digestion process generates heat, consider feeding your chickens in the morning and evening when the temperatures may be a bit lower.
Provide Dust Baths—Dust bathing keeps chickens’ feathers clean and healthy and helps them regulate their body temperature by kicking cool soil onto their skin. On hot days, provide your chickens with dust baths in shaded areas; they’ll definitely appreciate it!
Monitor Environmental Conditions and Chicken’s Behavior—By monitoring the outdoor temperature and humidity levels, you will be better prepared to implement heat stress preventative measures for your flock when necessary. Additionally, closely monitoring your chickens for signs and symptoms that may indicate heat stress and jumping into action if needed could save the lives of your birds!
Now that you have learned all about heat stress in chickens, you should be well equipped to take the proper precautions to prevent your flock from suffering in the heat. Drop by your local Feeds’n Needs store to stock up on emergency supplies like extra waterers and electrolyte supplements so you and your chickens will be well prepared for the next heat wave!
Looking for more poultry-related content? Check out our other posts!
How to Introduce New Chickens to Your Flock
Hens’ Health Throughout the Seasons
Predator Proofing Your Chicken Coop
Tips for Camping with Your Dog
Camping with your dog can be an enriching experience with adventure and bonding opportunities. However, it requires careful planning and preparation to ensure you and your furry friend have a safe and enjoyable trip. In this blog, we’ll explore the essential steps you must take when heading into the great outdoors with your canine companion. We’ve got you covered, from packing the gear to understanding campsite etiquette. So, grab your leash and get ready for an unforgettable camping journey with your dog!
Find Pet-Friendly Campsites & Activities
Before you can plan your camping trip, you need to find out if your campground allows dogs and, if so, if there are any specific rules they may have, such as how many dogs are permitted at a campsite, leash laws, if there are designated K9 potty areas, etc.
Additionally, you should check if the hiking trails or attractions you have planned for your trip allow dogs. Leashed dogs are usually permitted; however, checking beforehand and planning your trip from there is always best.
Pack The Right Camping Gear
When camping with dogs, packing the right gear is critical for ensuring your trip is a success. Let’s break down some of the basic essentials:
Tent—Make sure your tent is big enough for everyone to sleep comfortably. When deciding what size tent to bring, consider the size of your dog (or dogs) and how many people will be camping with you.
Floor Mats—Dogs have sharp claws that could potentially poke holes in your tent flooring. Lining your tent floor with inexpensive indoor/outdoor floor mats can prevent holes and make tent cleanup much easier!
Sleep Setup—The key to a great night’s rest while camping is ensuring everyone has a comfortable place to sleep! If you’re not keen on sharing a bed with your dog, give them their own place to sleep – whether it be a dog bed from home, their own inflatable sleeping pad or a cot with blankets. Make sure they’ll be able to keep warm if the temperature drops overnight and bring a cooling pad for them in case it gets hot. Find your dog a cozy bed to keep them comfy at Feeds’n Needs!
* Pro Tip—Ensure your dog gets lots of exercise during the day to help tire them out for bedtime!
Tie-Outs—Since most campgrounds require dogs to be on a leash at all times, a tie-out for the campsite makes it easy to keep your dog from running off without you having to hold a leash. Tie-outs can be attached to ground stakes or a tree (if there are any on your campsite), or you can create a “zipline” by attaching a tie out to 2 trees and clipping another tie out to it; that way, your dog has more freedom to move about the campsite. Consider placing your dog’s bed or camp chair outside so they can rest comfortably off the ground. Stop by your local Feeds ‘n Needs and check out our selection of tie-outs and ground stakes!
* Disclaimer—Never leave your dog tied up for prolonged periods of time or unsupervised at the campsite.
Food, Water & Accessories—Portion out each meal your dog will eat while camping in Ziploc baggies to make mealtime quick and easy – especially when you’re on the go! Store the baggies of food in a rolltop storage bag or airtight container to keep unwanted critters away from it. Collapsable food and water bowls are great for camping as they take up little space, and some can even clip to your backpack! Be sure to bring lots of drinking water for you and your dog, and try to avoid letting them drink from streams or puddles as they can be host to disease.
* Pro Tip – In the event you run out of clean drinking water, you can purify water from rivers, lakes, or streams by boiling it and making sure it stays at a rolling boil for at least one minute.
Leashes, Collars & ID—Make sure you pack your pet’s collar, leash, and harness before you go. Consider packing an extra collar and leash as a backup. Additionally, make sure your pet’s collar has an up-to-date ID tag. If they’re microchipped, ensure that information is also up to date. If you have a GPS-tracking collar for your dog, you can bring that along, too. If your dog gets lost while on your trip, making sure they can be identified when found is important. Be prepared by getting your pet ID tags made at Feeds’ n Needs! (Select Locations)
First Aid & Safety—Their safety is a top priority when camping or doing anything outdoors with your dog! Before you leave for your trip, research where the nearest 24-hour emergency vet is and write down their contact information. It is also recommended that you bring a doggie first aid kit with you. You can purchase these or easily make your own, including things like gauze and self-adhering wound wrap, antibacterial wipes or spray, tweezers, a tick remover, hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting if your dog ingests anything harmful, children’s Benadryl for allergic reactions (ask your vet about dosage), and any medications prescribed by your veterinarian. It may also be a good idea to include special paperwork such as your dog’s vaccination records and proof of ownership with your first aid kit in case you need it. Check out the selection of animal health and first aid supplies at your local Feeds ‘n Needs and start building your own K9 first aid kit!
Other Things to Pack:
- Poop Bags (Lots!)
- Dog Treats to reward good behaviour
- Dog Toys to keep them occupied at the campsite
- Dog backpack so your dog can help carry their own supplies
- Bug repellant (Dog safe)
- Lighting (headlamps, glow collar to see your dog at night)
- Cooling vest to keep your pooch cool in the heat
- Raincoat for your dog in case it rains
- Dog boots to protect their paws from rough terrain, hot pavement, or hot sand
- Towel to dry your dog off if they get wet or dirty
Practice & Prepare Before You Go
Being well-prepared for your trip before you leave is the best way to ensure you have everything you need once you get there. Make a list of all the supplies you need to bring and double check that you’ve got everything before you head out. If your dog has never been camping with you before, they may benefit from some practice at home. Set up your tent in your backyard and camp out for the night with your dog to get them used to the sounds and experience of being in a tent. You can also plan a few day trips hiking or adventuring with your dog to get them better prepared for the big camping trip! At the end of the day, patience will be essential when taking your dog camping. New surroundings and smells can overwhelm them, so give them time to adjust and reward them with lots of treats and praise along the way!
Camping Etiquette
Once you arrive at the campground, it is important to be respectful of your fellow campers and hikers. Being mindful of your dog’s barking at late hours, respecting leash laws, and picking up after your dog are all ways to practice good camping etiquette while on your trip.
Camping with your dog can be a fantastic adventure. With the right preparation and our expert advice in mind, you and your furry friend are sure to enjoy a safe, fun-filled trip, making memories to last a lifetime! Stop by one of our 14 Feeds ‘n Needs locations across the Maritimes to pick up some of these K9 camping essentials! Stay safe and happy camping!
Ready to explore more expert advice topics? Check out these similar posts!
Road Trip Safety for Your Dog
Animal Welfare During a Heat Wave
Water Safety for Dogs
Sources:
25 Camping With Dogs Tips, Tricks, and Top Gear (countryliving.com)
Camping With Dogs – A Beginner’s Guide | GoPetFriendly.com
A guide to camping with your dog – She Gets Around
How to Camp With Your Dog: What To Know and What To Bring (rover.com)
How to Make a First Aid Kit for Dogs, Cats & Other Pets | Tractor Supply Co.
A Guide to Watering Pigs in the Summer
Ensuring your pigs have access to fresh drinking water at all times can feel like a never-ending challenge. These mud-loving animals are notorious for being able to tip over water troughs and buckets with their brute strength. How can you avoid this and be sure your pigs have clean water to drink 24/7? Our guide to watering pigs in the summer offers tips, tricks and products to keep your pigs cool and hydrated all summer!
Why Do Pigs Need Access to Water at All Times?
Did you know that pigs don’t have functional sweat glands? This means that instead of sweating, pigs must find other ways to keep cool to avoid heat stress and maintain healthy bodily functions. In the summer months, when the temperature may exceed 25 degrees Celsius, pigs can consume two times more water than they would on a cooler day. This is because the cool water helps them regulate their body temperature. Pigs love to roll around in mud and water because when they get wet, a process called “evaporative cooling” takes place, which helps the pig maintain a normal body temperature.
How Much Water Do Pigs Need Each Day?
How much water a pig needs to drink daily can vary based on several factors. Age, size, weather, and what the pig is eating are all things that need to be taken into consideration when it comes to swine water requirements. The chart below is a basic guide to pigs’ daily water requirements; however, our experts still recommend talking to your farm vet to help you determine your pigs’ water requirements.
Watering Systems for Pigs
Depending on how many pigs you have and how your farm is set up, there are several different ways to deliver constant fresh drinking water to your pigs. Let’s go over the best manual and automatic watering systems for swine:
Manual Watering Systems for Pigs – A manual watering system is something like a trough, bucket or tub that requires you to clean and refill daily. Whatever you use as a manual waterer must be durable and heavy so your pigs can’t damage or knock it over. The sides need to be low enough for the smaller pigs to be able to drink from but high enough to prevent mud or bedding from contaminating the water. Try placing a couple of cinder blocks at the bottom of your trough or tub to weigh them down and provide footing for any pigs who may accidentally fall in.
Automatic Watering Systems for Pigs – Automatic watering systems provide a continuous flow of drinking water for your pigs without the hassle of having to clean and refill a tub or trough. Pig water nipples and drinking cups are examples of popular and effective automatic watering systems that have animal-activated stem valves to ensure that your pigs are getting water when they need it without spilling everywhere and making a mess. These valves can be screwed into a garden hose and attached to the wall of your pig pen at a height of roughly two inches above where the shoulder of your smallest pig would reach. If your barn doesn’t have the option of running water through a hose, you can hook up your pig water nipples or cups to the side of a large plastic water barrel. You can even hook up your barrel to a rain barrel outside the barn to keep it filling automatically. Additionally, these auto waterers can be hooked up to large livestock tanks to provide water to pigs who may be on pasture.
Sometimes, all it takes are the right tools and a bit of creativity when it comes to pig watering solutions, so stop by your local Feeds’n Needs and chat with one of our Experts about which watering system may work best for your pigs. We’re here to help!
Be sure to check out our other blogs, where you’ll find helpful information on a wide range of topics!
feedsnneeds.ca/experts-advice/
Sources:
Keeping Pigs Cool in the Summer Heat (psu.edu)
How To Water Pigs: Equipment Tips, Winter Care & More – Hobby Farms
Water – Small Scale Pig Farming
The Easy Guide To Watering Your Pigs (qcsupply.com)
