Keeping your cattle outside in the Maritimes during winter is viable but requires careful thought and good management. For many producers, indoor wintering is preferable. Many dairy breeds do not do well in the cold as their bodies don’t grow the coat and have the extra pounds like beef breeds. Keeping your cows inside in the winter helps keep them out of the elements and ensures they always have water. It also prevents any falling ice or calves from being born outside. Our blog will guide you with some important practices on why to keep cows inside throughout the winter season.
Slower Winter Growth Rates:
Slower growth rates in winter mean less plant coverage on the soil to protect it. The same cattle hooves that benefited the soil through trampling of pasture in summer now become damaging as they expose bare patches of soil that are vulnerable to erosion. Waterlogged soils quickly turn to mud with cattle roaming above. This makes it very difficult for plant species to grow, and the pasture will take a very long time to recover.
On top of this, there isn’t enough forage to sustain the cattle through the whole winter. During the autumn season, hay is often taken to the cows on the pasture so they can stay outside despite being unable to forage the field. However, moving cows inside in late autumn is a good idea to give the pasture time to recover through the winter and prevent overgrazing.
Overwintering Inside:
Cattle need a constant supply of fresh air to minimize disease, predominantly pneumonia. Stale air increases the spread of the infection and the number of vulnerable animals. The age of the cattle, stage of production, and health and body condition of the cattle all need to be considered and will have challenges coping with severe weather.
Shelter:
Keeping your cows inside during the winter ensures they will be warm and will not require you to provide extra bedding to help dry them out if they get muddy or extra outdoor shelter to protect them from harsh weather conditions.
Feeding:
If you decide to overwinter your cattle, you will likely have to invest in more feed and better quality forage to help provide them with additional energy. Housing them inside will help keep your costs down in the winter.
For more information on keeping cows inside in winter, visit your local Feeds’n Needs and chat with one of our Experts!
Disclaimer: This is general information, it is important to do what works best for you and your cattle.
How to Care for Molting Chickens
As fall days get shorter and temperatures begin to drop, you may start to notice that your chickens are losing feathers and their egg production is slowing down. While this can seem alarming, your chickens are likely experiencing their annual molt, and it is typically nothing to be concerned about.
What is Molting and Why Does it Happen?
Molting is the process of shedding old, worn-out feathers, followed by the regrowth of new, healthy ones. Chickens will experience this natural, healthy process each year, typically in the fall when the days get shorter and temperatures get colder. Molting happens to replace old feathers that no longer do a good job of insulating the chicken and don’t provide protection from things like rain, wind, and snow. New feathers are grown to better protect the chicken from harsh winter weather. When molting starts, chickens will usually begin to lose the feathers around their head and neck, followed by the rest of their body.
While shorter daylight hours and colder weather are typically what triggers molting, there are a few other factors that can cause a molt to happen:
- Stress
- Dehydration
- Malnutrition
- Illness
- Extreme heat
- Broody hens who have recently hatched eggs
How Long Does Molting Last?
The duration of a molt can vary depending on the chicken. On average, molting can last anywhere from a week to several months. The way your chicken molts depends on their genetics and has a direct link to their egg-laying. A faster molt is often referred to as a “hard molt” and a slower molt is referred to as a “soft molt”. Let’s break down what that means:
Hard Molt – Chickens who experience a hard molt could look normal one day, then lose most of their feathers either overnight or over a few days. While these poor chickens may look in rough shape, their molt is typically done in a shorter amount of time than soft molting chickens. Typically, chickens who are excellent layers will experience a hard molt.
Soft Molt – Some chickens slowly experience their molt over weeks to months. This is called a slow molt. The chicken will lose its feathers slowly over time before eventually taking their time to regrow them. Chickens who aren’t consistent layers will typically experience a slow molt.
How Does Molting Affect Egg Production?
Molting requires a large amount of protein, and so does making eggs. This is why you may notice your chicken’s egg production coming to a halt for the duration of their molt, also referred to as the end of the year’s laying cycle.
How Can You Help Your Chickens While They Molt:
Increase Their Protein Intake – Typically, your laying hens feed should consist of 16-17% protein like the Shur-Gain Homestead Layer Ration, however during molting season, it is recommended to switch to a feed that has 18% protein or higher to supplement the extra protein needed to make new feathers. When your chickens start molting, consider changing their feed to Shur-Gain 19% Layer Ration or Shur-Gain 20% Breeder Ration available at your local Feeds’n Needs. If you decide not to switch their feed, you can still supplement protein in your chicken’s diet by feeding them high-protein treats such as dried mealworms or black oil sunflower seeds. Treats like scratch feed and grains can dilute protein and should not be fed while your chickens are molting.
Reduce Stress – Because the process of molting puts extra stress on a chicken’s body, we can help them out by trying our best to not add to that stress. Avoid making any significant changes like adding new flock members or moving your coop until molting season is over. Additionally, watch for any bully chickens that may be picking on other flock members. Consider separating any bullies from the rest of the group for the duration of the molt.
Limit Handling Birds – Molting can be a painful and uncomfortable process for chickens, and their skin becomes very tender and sensitive while they grow new pin feathers. Pin feathers are hard and full of nutrient-rich blood that can be easily broken or damaged. Avoid handling your chickens while they are molting as it can be painful or damaging to new pin feathers. These blood-filled feathers are often a target for bully chickens, so do your best to protect your feathered friends during their vulnerable time.
Being well-informed on the process of molting and being prepared is ultimately the best way to help your birds out as they head into their molting season this fall. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to pick up a bag of high-protein feed and ask one of the Experts to show you some protein-packed treats your chickens will love!
Check out these blog posts for more poultry care tips and how-to’s!
Hens Health Throughout the Seasons
Predator Proofing Your Chicken Coop
How Long Are Farm Fresh Eggs Good For
Tips for Winter Composting
There’s no reason to put composting to the sidelines over the winter. We may begin to think that our compost pile is frozen or stopped working in the winter months. It typically slows down considerably, but the organisms are just waiting to warm up a bit. Compost piles that are activity-managed in the winter will continue to decompose but at a slower pace. Keeping your compost active year-round offers many benefits, including great fuel for your garden in the spring. Here are some tips for winter composting:
Choose The Right Location
You will want to choose a spot easily accessible in the winter and away from direct sunlight or extreme weather. Do not compost near a body of water or the shore of a lake or stream. Compost can contribute unwanted nutrients to the water.
Select Your Composting Container
To help you decide on what size of a container you will need, think about how much organic waste you expect to have. You can create your own by drilling holes in the top of a large plastic storage bin or opt for a store-bought container to hold compost. Rotating bins make turning your mixture easy and help keep pests out.
Know What You Can Compost
The contents of your winter composting collection can be the same throughout the year. This includes kitchen scraps such as fruit peels, rinds or cores. Along with vegetables, including pumpkin shells and onion skins. Coffee grounds and paper filters can also go in the compost. Along with tea leaves and tea bags without any staples or stickers. Eggshells are also a great addition to compost. Composting is the best alternative to managing backyard waste and kitchen food scraps. It reduces the amount of waste you produce and supplies a beneficial soil amendment product.
Materials to Avoid
There are some materials you should avoid adding to your composting. Avoid adding meat, dairy, or oil foods to your compost, as they can attract pests and create unpleasant odors. Woody twigs and branches larger than 1/4 -inch in diameter should be put through a wood chipper before being added to your compost. Avoid wood and leaves from plants such as pine, spruce, juniper and arborvitae. Also, avoid adding plants that have been treated with weed killers.
Add Yard Clippings
Compost should have the right balance of green (nitrogen) and brown (carbon) ingredients. Since most of the scraps from your kitchen will be nitrogen-rich, be sure to add yard waste such as straw, dried leaves and plant debris.
Layering
Start by adding a layer of browns, such as dried leaves or shredded newspaper, to the bottom of your composting container. Next, add a layer of greens, like kitchen scraps and grass clippings. Continue alternating layers of browns and greens; lightly water each layer as you go to keep the compost moist.
Turn and Mix
Turning and mixing your compost helps aerate it, which speeds up the decomposition process. Use a pitchfork or shovel to turn the pile regularly, combining the outer layers into the center. You can also rotate your compost bins to make turning your mixture easy.
Monitor and Adjust
Monitoring moisture is essential when receiving a lot of rain and snow. This can be difficult with traditional compost piles, as the moisture soaks into the ground and is taken on by the compost. That is why it is a good idea to use a sealed compost container so the rain and snow melt is not a problem. Containers can still take on some water, so don’t skimp on adding dry leaves to adsorb any excess moisture. Your compost should feel moist but not wet. If it is too wet, add more dried leaves or cardboard. If it’s too dry, sprinkle it lightly with water. Your compost should be dark, crumbly and earthy-smelling. Stick your hand into the pile to test the temperature; if it’s warm, the composting process is on track.
Your compost will transform into nutrient-rich soil that will help when it’s time to start your garden in the spring. Just scoop out the finished compost and mix it into garden soil or pile it on top as mulch. Leave some compost in your container to help start the next batch!
Hidden Sugars in Dog Food
How Hidden Sugar in Your Dog’s Food Can Affect Their Health
Did you know that there is a hidden ingredient in most processed dog foods that can seriously affect their health? That’s right, your dog may be consuming large amounts of sugar and starch without you even realizing it! In this blog, we will uncover the truth about hidden sugar in dog food and its impact on pet’s health.
The Role of Starch in Processed Dog Foods
According to AAFCO (Association of Food Control Officials), there is no minimum amount of carbohydrates required for dog food, and this is because they are not required for your dog’s health. So, if this is the case, why would pet food companies still put starch in their processed kibble? The answer is simple – it’s necessary for the process used to produce the kibble. When exposed to heat and moisture, starch gelatinizes and helps to bind the food together when it’s made into its final form.
The Hidden Ingredient – Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates are sugar molecules that come in the form of sugars (simple carbohydrates), starch, and fibre. When carbohydrates are eaten, the digestive system breaks them down into glucose. Glucose is sugar in the blood which the body can use for energy.
Understanding The Glycemic Load
The glycemic load of food refers to how much that food will raise blood sugar levels after it is eaten. When the glycemic load of food is high, it can cause a rapid spike in blood sugar levels, which triggers the production of insulin in the pancreas. Insulin is produced to move sugar from the blood into cells, which lowers blood glucose levels. The speed at which food is digested can impact how quickly blood glucose levels spike, triggering insulin production. It’s worth noting that carbohydrates may be digested slower if the food is high in protein and fat, meaning that blood sugar won’t rapidly spike, and insulin won’t be produced.
The Impact of a High Glycemic Load
Insulin Spikes & Obesity – As we previously discussed, when your pet eats food with a high glycemic load, it can cause a rapid spike in blood glucose levels, leading to insulin production. Insulin works to lower blood glucose levels by moving sugar from the blood and into the cells of the body, where it can be used for energy or stored as fat to be used later. Over time, eating high glycemic foods can increase blood glucose levels to be higher than your dog needs for energy, and will end up being stored as fat that is never used. This can lead to obesity and, in severe cases, can lead to insulin resistance and diabetes.
Gut Health – Harmful bacteria thrive on sugar, so when your dog eats a high-carbohydrate diet, these harmful bacteria can start to outnumber the good bacteria. This imbalance of bacteria can lead to many issues like leaky gut syndrome, autoimmune diseases, and malnutrition. Since the good bacteria in your dog’s body are responsible for making many vitamins and minerals in the intestines, when harmful bacteria outnumber the good, it can cause malnutrition, despite your dog eating a healthy amount of food in a day.
Yeast Infections – Yeast, a type of fungus, also thrives on sugar, so when your dog eats a high-carb diet causing an imbalance of bacteria, it can cause the yeast to colonize and grow out of control. This overgrowth of yeast can lead to infections which can be either local (present in one area of the body), or systemic (spread throughout the body). These yeast infections are commonly misdiagnosed as allergies or food sensitivities.
How to Calculate the Glycemic Load of Dog Food
Since carbohydrate content isn’t required to be listed on dog food packaging, how do you figure out how much is in the food? Calculating the glycemic load of a food is simple. Just look at the guaranteed analysis on the bag and add the total percentage of fat, moisture, protein, and ash (Ash is usually between 5-8%; use 7% if not listed). Once you’ve added these numbers, subtract that total from 100%.
- Ex: 11% fat + 12% moisture + 35% protein + 7% ash = 65
Now calculate 100 – 65 = Glycemic load of 35%
Glycemic Load Levels:
High – 20+ glycemic load
Medium – 11-19 glycemic load
Low – 0-10 glycemic load
How Can You Find a Low-Glycemic Dog Food?
Since carbohydrates are necessary for dry kibble production, finding one with a low glycemic load can be difficult. An excellent choice for the lowest possible GL would be to feed a raw diet as they don’t require any starch for production. Feeds’n Needs is proud to offer Big Country Raw pet food at all our retail locations. Another option is to choose a food high in protein and fat, such as Acana or Orijen pet foods. The high amount of protein helps prevent your dog’s blood glucose and insulin levels from spiking. Choosing a food with the lowest possible glycemic load can prevent many potential health concerns, so it’s worth taking the extra time to calculate the percentage when looking into a new food for your dog.
If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! You now have a better understanding of the complexity of hidden sugars in dog food. Having this knowledge is critical to making informed decisions when it comes to choosing a food that is best for your pet and their health. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to chat with one of our experts about our different food options and let us help you choose the perfect one for your canine companion!
Eager to learn more about pet health and nutrition? Check out these blogs!
Benefits of a Raw Diet
Pet Obesity Awareness
Pet Seasonal Allergies
Sources:
Healthy Foods for Diabetic Dogs | Dogabetix
Do Dogs Need Carbs? | Dog Food Advisor
Hidden Sugars in Dog Food: The Silent Health Threat – Human & Pets (humanandpets.com)
Is The Sugar in Your Dogs Food Slowly Killing Them? (acabonacfarms.com)
How Hidden Sugars In Your Dog’s Food Are Making Them Sick (theluckypup.com)
Low-Glycemic Dog Food by Canine Nutritionist | The Canine Nutritionist
Importance of Fiber in a Horses Diet
Why is Fiber Important in a Horse’s Diet
Fiber is one of the most important components of a horse’s diet, and as an equine owner, it is essential to understand why. Let’s take a look at why it is important and what can happen if your horse isn’t getting enough fiber in their diet:
Why Do Horses Need Fiber – Fiber provides up to 70% of a horse’s energy needs while maintaining gut health and encouraging natural grazing behaviors.
Daily Fiber Requirements – While no daily fiber requirement has been established for horses, nutritionists recommend feeding a minimum of 1.5% of your horse’s body weight in dry forage to maximize their fiber intake.
Different Types of Fiber – There are many different types of fiber in the equine diet, each with varying nutritional profiles and degrees of hindgut fermentation. These include lignin, pectins, gums, cellulose and hemicellulose.
Sources of Fiber – Horses mainly get their daily fiber requirements from forages like hay and pasture grass; however, fiber can also be obtained from processed forage products like beet pulp and soybean hulls.
Fiber Deficiency in Horses – A horse’s gastrointestinal tract is a huge, complex organ. Insufficient fiber intake can lead to severe issues such as hindgut acidosis, gastric ulcers, dehydration, colic, stereotypic behaviours, etc.
As fellow animal lovers, we know that your horse’s health and well-being are top priorities, which is why we are committed to providing our customers with the best quality feed and forage products. Stop by your local Feeds‘n Needs to check out our line of premium horse feeds and accessories; your horse will thank you!
Check out our other horse-related blogs here:
Maintaining Your Horses Health
Deworming Your Horse
Horses Hoof and Skin Health
Fall Wild Bird Feeding
As cool, crisp temperatures slowly return, you might notice increased activity at your seed feeders. This is the perfect time to let your winter birds know your yard is their go-to spot! How do you adjust your bird-feeding routine for the season? We have some fall feeding tips to keep your local birds happy and healthy throughout the season.
What’s the Best Food for Fall Bird Feeding?
While many feeder birds will gravitate to a variety of food in the wild, once cool weather hits, those same birds will start looking for food that’s easy to get and packed with energy.
Select the Right Seeds: Many seed types are available for your bird feeders. The best fall-feeding options are those with a lot of protein, such as sunflower seeds, Nyjer seeds, peanuts, and safflower seeds. If you buy mixed seeds, look for those with high percentages of sunflower seeds, nuts, and safflower seeds inside. These seeds will give birds a high-quality source of sustained energy to withstand cooler weather or to help fly long distances.
Suet Cakes Deliver: With the right bird feeder, suet can be a valuable addition to your autumn bird-feeding efforts. Birds can pick it apart to build up their own fat reserves. While many suet cakes can spoil in warm weather, they’re perfect for fall and winter feeding.
Keep Feeders Full and the Birdbath Warm
Did you know that birds that don’t migrate during the winter assess and re-assess their fall and winter options all summer? They take note of where full feeders are for cold winter nights. Set up your feeders in a safe location and keep them full so those birds recognize your yard as a reliable source of food. Birds will remember and avoid returning if you leave a feeder empty for over a few days. When winter hits, they’ll fly right by your yard, looking for cold-weather fuel elsewhere.
Birds also need water to drink and bathe in all seasons. If you add a water feature like a birdbath to your yard, it will become even more attractive to birds. Fresh, clean water is a must, so the water needs to be changed every couple of days. If your fall weather is cold enough, consider switching to a heated birdbath to keep the water from freezing.
Watch Out for Squirrels
Autumn is a foraging time for squirrels. You can prevent access to your feeder by using a squirrel-proof bird feeder. You can also distract them with their own food. Set up a squirrel feeder far away from your bird feeder.
Want more wild bird-feeding tips? Expand your bird knowledge with our many bird blogs.
Keep Backyard Birds Healthy in Winter
How to Properly Store Bird Seed
Keep Feeding Areas Clean and Maintained
Best Winter Bird Feeders
Winter Backyard Bird Enthusiasts
Fall Bulb Planting
You might feel like the gardening season is winding down, but an excellent fall task is to plant bulbs so they can thrive from winter chilling and get their roots started before spring warmth helps them emerge. Certain spring flowers are called “dormant perennials.” They need the cool, moist autumn soil to awaken them from their dormancy so they can begin growing roots in preparation for the spring show. You can even plant a few vegetable bulbs in the fall that will thrive in the early summer with this extra growing time. This blog covers what you need to know to start your fall bulb planting!
When to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
The best time to plant fall bulbs is when soils are below 15°C in the late fall or about six weeks before a hard frost is expected. This is usually during September and October (Halloween is a reasonable deadline to set).
How to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
Planting bulbs is generally an easy task, but there are some things that you want to get right. Here are tips to keep in mind:
- Bulbs need at least partial sun throughout the spring. They look beautiful growing beneath trees (before the trees leaf out), amidst wildflowers, and mixed with spring annuals in containers.
- Bulbs need a spot with good drainage, or they may rot. Before planting, work a few inches of compost into the soil for nutrients and drainage, especially if you have heavy clay soil. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
- Plant bulbs with the point facing up! Examine bulbs carefully before placing them in the planting hole, being sure to set them with the roots facing down.
- Consider the bloom time for each bulb (early spring, mid-spring, late spring) and plant bulbs with different bloom times so that you have flowers throughout spring!
- Place shorter bulbs in the front of beds and borders.
- Plant bulbs generously in case some do not sprout (or are devoured by hungry squirrels). Plant them randomly and with varied spacing for a more natural appearance.
Best Bulbs to Plant in the Fall
- Daffodils
- Crocuses
- Snowdrops
- Tulips
- Hyacinths
- Irises
- Alliums (Ornamental Onions)
- Garlic
- Shallot
For more gardening tips, visit your local Feeds’n Needs and chat with one of our Experts!
10 Common Backyard Birding Mistakes
Attracting birds to your yard can be entertaining and fun, but common mistakes can prevent birds from coming to your feeders. Simple, overlooked mistakes can prevent you from enjoying the entertainment of a variety of feathered friends. Here are 10 common backyard birding mistakes that people make:
- Forgetting to Provide Water
Birds rely on both food and water for survival. Having a water source for them to drink and bathe along with food will make your backyard the ideal location for your feathered friends. Birdbaths placed near feeders will attract more birds to the area. Even in the winter, birds still need a water source. Use a heated birdbath to keep the water from freezing in the cooler months. - Irregular Cleaning of Feeders
Feeders should be cleaned thoroughly at least every two weeks, and more often in wet weather. This is especially true for open platform feeders, which should be cleaned weekly all year round. Hummingbird feeders should be cleaned weekly. Regular cleaning can help prevent bacteria from growing, which is harmful to birds. Take apart your feeder and use hot soapy water to clean thoroughly. Make sure to rinse well after cleaning. - Not Changing Out Seed
Change the seed in a dry seed feeder every 5-7 days to avoid mold, bacteria, or bugs in the feeders. Always wash your hands after handling bird supplies and feeders. If feeders are left empty for long periods, birds will look elsewhere for their next meal. - Not Feeding the Birds in the Winter
Not all birds migrate, and the ones that stick around in the winter become reliant on regular food sources from backyards. Never put away your feeder in the winter, as natural food sources are more limited during the colder months. Change up the food type you provide to black oil sunflower seeds, suet, or fruit and nut blends for energy for the birds to stay warm. - Using Dye in Your Hummingbird Feeders
For hummingbirds, use clear nectar with red hummingbird feeders. Colored dye can be harmful to these little birds. You can even make sugar water (equal parts sugar and water) that they will enjoy or plant a specific flower that attracts hummingbirds. - Not Providing Shelter
Birds need natural shelter from shrubs, trees, and bushes to give them somewhere to feel safe from predators. - Keeping Bird Feeders to Close to Your House
If a feeder is too close to windows or the sides of a house, it could cause harm to a bird if they fly into a window. Birds might also avoid feeders if they are too close to people. Keep some distance between your bird feeders and your home. - Not Targeting the Birds You Want to See
If there is a specific bird you want to see in your yard, include that bird’s favorite food to target them. Visit your local Feeds’n Needs to check out our Wild Bird Chart to learn more about what food specific birds enjoy. - Feeding Bread to Birds
Birds get energy from a balanced diet of protein-packed seeds, bugs, nuts, and fruits. Do not feed birds bread, as it only provides them with empty calories. - Not Having Birdhouses or Nesting Areas
Birdhouses, shrubs, and trees are great for nesting birds in the springtime. Most birds return to the same nesting spot – if you make a good one, you’ll have birds for years to come.
Feeds’n Needs is your one-stop destination for all the essentials to keep your backyard feathered friends happy! You’ll find that feeding the birds is even more rewarding when you join our Wild Bird Seed Club and start earning $10 off after every $200 you spend on bird seed. Stop into your local Feeds’ n Needs and ask one of our Experts for details on the loyalty program and how you can get started feeding the birds!
Are you looking for more information about wild birds? Check out our other blogs:
Keeping Feeding Areas Clean and Maintained
How to Properly Store Bird Seed
Feeding Wild Birds in Winter
Keep Backyard Birds Healthy in Winter
Keeping Backyard Birds Hydrated
Basic Guide to Gerbil Care
Gerbils are playful and curious little animals that are easy to care for and make great pets for children. In this blog, we will provide a basic guide to gerbil care, so you have all the information you need before bringing home your tiny new companion!
Things to Consider Before Getting a Pet Gerbil
- Gerbils are very social animals and should live in pairs of 2 or more. It’s best to get littermates or adopt young gerbils of similar ages so that they can grow up together. If you already have a gerbil or pair of adult gerbils, it can be challenging to introduce a new one as they are very territorial creatures and may fight each other.
- Gerbils can reproduce quickly, so it’s best to keep only same-sex pairs together in an enclosure.
- The lifespan of a gerbil is 2 – 4 years on average.
- Adult gerbils grow to 4 inches long, with their long hairy tails adding an additional 4 inches.
Housing
Gerbils are known for their love of digging and burrowing, and a great way to nurture these natural instincts is to house your gerbils in a large glass tank or aquarium with a secure wire lid. It is recommended that 5 gallons of space be provided per gerbil. An enclosure that is 16″ wide by 30″ long and 12″ tall is the minimum size needed for a pair of gerbils.
Wire cages will also work to house gerbils. However, because of their digging habits, they may end up kicking bedding through the metal bars, making a mess. Make sure to choose a wire cage with bars narrow enough that your gerbils can’t escape through them but not so close together that they could get body parts stuck between them.
Plastic cages are not recommended for gerbils as they are easily chewed and destroyed and don’t provide adequate ventilation.
Gerbils should also have a nest box in their enclosure where they can hide out and sleep. Nest boxes should be made of sturdy materials like wood or ceramic.
Bedding
Since they love to dig and burrow, fill your gerbil’s enclosure ¾ of the way full with bedding like small animal paper bedding or aspen shavings. Avoid using pine or cedar shavings, as well as bedding that has been chemically dyed, as these can be harmful to your gerbils.
You can also add additional nesting materials like dye and scent-free toilet paper, paper towels and tissues that your gerbils can shred and build nests with. Spot-clean any soiled bedding daily, and thoroughly clean the enclosure with mild soap and hot water once weekly. Pick up some Boxo comfort paper bedding and gerbil-safe aspen shavings at Feeds’n Needs!
Food & Water
The best way to provide your gerbils with a healthy, balanced diet is to offer them quality dry food formulated for gerbils. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended feeding guide to feed your gerbils a daily portion of food. Place their daily food allowance in a ceramic or metal bowl or scatter it around their enclosure to encourage their natural foraging instincts! Fresh fruits, veggies and seeds like peas, broccoli, apples and sunflower seeds can be given as treats in limited quantities. Remove any uneaten treats after a few hours to prevent spoilage.
Your gerbils should always have access to fresh water in a sipper bottle that attaches to the side of their enclosure. Refresh their water daily, and thoroughly clean their water bottle once weekly when you clean their enclosure.
Pick up a bag of quality gerbil food, like Sunburst hamster and gerbil food, at Feeds’n Needs. While you’re there, don’t forget to grab some gerbil treats and a drinking bottle, too!
Exercise & Enrichment
Gerbils are playful and active little animals, and they need lots of enriching toys and climbing materials to keep them happy and healthy. Since their teeth never stop growing, they should always have access to things to chew on, like wooden toys, toilet paper tubes and other safe materials to wear them down. Include lots of things for them to climb and play on in their enclosure, like ramps, ladders and platforms to keep them active. Exercise wheels are another great way to keep them active and fit; choose a wheel with a solid surface in which your gerbils won’t get their tail or other body parts stuck.
Visit your local Feeds’ n Needs and check out our small animal toys and enrichment accessories selection!
Grooming
Gerbils spend a great deal of time grooming themselves and often groom their cage mates. They do not need baths; however, if your gerbil gets something in its fur and needs to be cleaned, you can use a damp cloth to gently rub the area clean.
Health Concerns
Gerbils are generally healthy animals. However, there are a few common health issues that you should be aware of:
- Injuries like broken bones or injured tail
- Digestive diseases
- Skin issues
- Seizures
- Kidney disease in adult gerbils
- Inner ear mass in adult / elderly gerbils
If you suspect your gerbil may be in poor health, please get in touch with your small animal veterinarian.
Training
Gerbils are usually quite gentle, only biting on the rare occasion that they may feel threatened. Gerbils can be easily hand-tamed using positive reinforcement techniques, often involving many treats! When you first bring your gerbil home, allow them a couple of days to settle in before you begin training them.
Now that you’ve learned all the basics of owning and caring for pet gerbils, you should be ready to bring home your new furry friend! Make Feeds’n Needs your go-to stop for all your small animal needs, and be sure to ask one of our experts any questions you may have!
If you love to learn, check out our blog. We are always adding more helpful advice, such as how-tos and DIYs: feedsnneeds.ca/experts-advice/
Keeping Backyard Birds Hydrated
When it comes to backyard birding, providing fresh water is often overlooked. Along with nourishing food and safe shelter, water is vital in attracting a variety of birds to your backyard. As temperatures rise during summer, birds in your yard encounter challenges such as staying hydrated and finding cool spots to rest. This blog covers tips to assist backyard birds during the hottest days.
Importance of Water for Backyard Birds
Fresh water is essential for wild birds, especially on hot summer days, as they face increased challenges in staying hydrated. Water serves multiple purposes for birds, including:
- Drinking: Essential for hydration.
- Bathing: Helps clean feathers for optimal flight and insulation.
- Feathering: Assists in molting and feather growth.
- Cooling: Vital for temperature regulation during hot weather.
Setting Up a Bird Watering Station
Choosing an appropriate location encourages birds to bathe and drink without disturbances. Offering various water sources like bird baths, drippers, misters, ponds, water gardens, and fountains can attract a diverse range of birds to your backyard.
Maintaining Water Sources
Cleanliness: Ensure water sources are clean to prevent disease spread.
- Regular Cleaning: Clean bird baths and water sources often to remove algae, droppings, and debris.
- Use of Brushes: Employ brushes to scrub hard-to-reach areas.
- Safe Cleaning Agents: Use non-toxic, bird-friendly cleaning agents for disinfection.
Fresh Water:
- Daily Refills: Change water daily to maintain freshness.
- Shallow Depth: Maintain a depth of 1-2 inches for easy wading and splashing, providing relief for small birds.
Encouraging Birds to Use Water Sources
- Native Plantings: Surround water sources with native shrubs and trees to provide natural shelter.
- Bird Perches: Install perches near water sources to give birds a place to rest and survey before approaching.
Ensuring birds have access to clean, fresh water, high-energy food, ample shelter, and shade is crucial for supporting them during hot weather. Regular maintenance of feeders and water sources is essential to prevent disease and maintain a bird-friendly environment in your garden.
By consistently offering food and water and maintaining a bird-friendly environment year-round, birds will recognize your yard as a reliable sanctuary. This ongoing care not only supports their survival during extreme weather but also encourages them to return, creating a vibrant space for bird watching and enjoyment.
For more information on backyard birding, check out our other blogs:
How to Attract Birds to Your Yard
Keep Feeding Areas Clean and Maintained
How to Properly Store Bird Seed
