

Barnyard Bite Prevention
Flea & Tick Control for Livestock in Atlantic Canada
Protecting Cattle, Sheep, Goats & Pigs from Seasonal Parasites
When warmer weather arrives in Atlantic Canada, livestock owners know that pest season is never far behind. While flies often get most of the attention on the farm, fleas and ticks can also create problems for cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs — especially on farms with wooded pasture, tall grass, brush lines, damp bedding, or mixed animal housing.
Flea and tick prevention for livestock is an important part of seasonal animal health. These small pests can cause skin irritation, scratching, hair loss, discomfort, reduced weight gain, and stress on your animals. Ticks may also carry disease, making regular prevention and inspection an important habit for farms across Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland.
At Feeds’n Needs, we carry livestock pest control products, barn insect sprays, fly traps, bedding, dust bath supplies, and animal health essentials to help keep your herd, flock, and barn protected through flea, tick, and fly season.
Which Animals Are Most at Risk?
Every farm is different, but these animals commonly encounter ticks in Atlantic Canada:
- Cattle grazing wooded fence lines or rough pasture
- Goats that browse brush and shrubs
- Sheep in long pasture or bushy paddocks
- Outdoor pigs rooting in wooded or grassy areas
Peak tick activity typically occurs through spring and early summer, with another increase during the fall, although ticks can remain active whenever temperatures stay mild.
Signs Your Livestock May Have Fleas or Ticks
Keep an eye out for:
- Excessive scratching or rubbing
- Hair loss or damaged coats
- Scabs or irritated skin
- Visible ticks attached around the ears, neck, brisket, udder, tail, or under the legs.
- Restlessness while grazing
- Poor weight gain or reduced productivity in heavy infestations
Checking animals during routine handling is one of the easiest ways to catch problems before they become severe.
Prevention Starts in the Pasture
The best flea and tick control is best combined with good management and the right animal health products.
Rotate Pastures: Rotational grazing helps reduce the time livestock spend in heavily infested areas while improving pasture health.
Mow High-Traffic Areas: Keeping grass shorter around gates, waterers, laneways, and handling facilities reduces places where ticks like to wait for passing animals.
Trim Brush Along Fence Lines: Ticks thrive in damp, shaded vegetation. Clearing back brush and overgrown edges reduces ideal habitat.
Inspect New Animals: Before introducing new livestock into the herd or flock, give them a thorough health check to help prevent bringing unwanted parasites onto the farm.
Integrated pest management—combining pasture management, monitoring, and appropriate treatments—is considered the most effective long-term approach for controlling livestock pests while reducing reliance on pesticides alone.
Barn Tips That Make a Difference
Many parasites spend part of their life cycle away from the animal, making barn hygiene just as important as treating livestock.
A few simple habits can help:
- Replace wet or heavily soiled bedding regularly.
- Remove manure frequently to discourage insect breeding.
- Improve ventilation to reduce damp conditions.
- Keep feed storage areas clean to discourage rodents and wildlife.
- Seal cracks and repair damaged walls where pests can hide.
- Clean pens thoroughly between groups of animals.
A clean barn is one of the easiest ways to reduce parasite pressure throughout the season.
Products Available at Feeds’n Needs
Every farm has different needs, so choosing the right product depends on the species, age, and management system.
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs for products such as:
- Livestock fly and tick control products
- Pour-on insecticide treatments*
- Premise and barn insect sprays
- Fly traps and sticky traps
- Livestock dust bags and applicators
- Mineral supplements to support overall health
- Bedding products that help keep housing clean and dry
Our knowledgeable staff can help you choose products that are labelled for your specific livestock species and explain proper application and withdrawal requirements.
*Always read and follow the product label before use. Use only products approved for the species you are treating and observe all meat and milk withdrawal periods where applicable.
Don’t Forget Daily Herd Checks
During tick season, a quick visual inspection while feeding or moving livestock can save time and money later.
Pay special attention to:
- Around the ears
- Under the jaw
- Between the legs
- Tail head
- Udder or sheath
- Neck and shoulders
Removing attached ticks early and treating infestations promptly helps reduce stress on your animals and limits further spread.
We’re Here to Help
Whether you raise a few backyard goats or manage a commercial beef herd, preventing fleas and ticks is far easier than dealing with a heavy infestation later in the season.
Stop by your nearest Feeds’n Needs location for advice on livestock parasite control, barn management products, and seasonal animal health supplies. Our team is here to help keep your animals healthy, comfortable, and productive all summer long.


Summer is when we want our lawns to look their best — green, thick, and ready for backyard barbecues, kids, and pets. But in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and PEI, summer also brings dry stretches, heat stress, weeds, insects, and heavy foot traffic.
Cool-season grasses like Kentucky Bluegrass, Fine Fescue, and Perennial Ryegrass thrive in cooler weather, so they naturally slow down during hot, dry periods. The goal in summer is to reduce stress on your lawn and support strong roots so it bounces back when cooler weather returns.
1. Water Deeply and Early
Light daily watering encourages shallow roots. Instead, water deeply and less frequently — this pushes roots deeper into the soil, making your lawn more drought-resilient.
Best practice: Water early in the morning so the grass absorbs moisture before peak heat. Avoid evening watering during humid weather, as wet overnight grass is more prone to fungal disease.
Tip: If your lawn looks blue-green or dull, or your footprints stay visible after walking across it, your grass is showing drought stress. Water before fertilizing.
Note on watering bylaws: Many Maritime municipalities have seasonal outdoor watering restrictions. Check your local municipality’s rules before setting up a regular watering schedule.
2. Mow High All Summer
Cutting too short exposes soil, dries out roots, and opens the door for weeds. Taller grass shades the soil and holds moisture better.
Summer mowing guidelines:
- Keep grass 2.5 to 3 inches high
- Never remove more than one-third of the blade at once
- Keep blades sharp — dull blades tear grass and stress it further
- Leave clippings on the lawn to return nutrients to the soil
- Avoid mowing dormant or very dry grass until it has moisture and is actively growing
3. Fertilize Carefully — Timing Is Everything
21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer is the right choice for established Maritime lawns that need steady feeding and a greener colour. But timing matters more than product.
Apply when:
- Grass is actively growing
- The lawn has adequate moisture
- Temperatures are moderate
Avoid fertilizing during:
- Drought or extreme heat
- Periods when the lawn is brown or dormant
Tip: A stressed, dry lawn cannot absorb nutrients properly. Fertilizing during drought can burn your grass. Water first, then wait for recovery before feeding.
4. Watch for Lawn Disease
Maritime summers — humid, warm, with occasional cool nights — create ideal conditions for common turf diseases:
- Red Thread: Pinkish-red threads visible on grass blades; thrives in cool, wet conditions. Common in PEI and coastal Nova Scotia.
- Dollar Spot: Small, silver-dollar-sized brown patches; caused by dry conditions and low nitrogen.
Prevention: Avoid evening watering, mow regularly, don’t over- or under-fertilize, and ensure good drainage. If disease spreads, consult your local Feeds’n Needs for treatment options.
5. Identify and Manage Grubs
White grubs (European Chafer and Japanese Beetle larvae) feed on grass roots through summer and are a growing problem in the Maritimes. Signs include:
- Irregular brown patches that don’t respond to watering
- Spongy turf that lifts easily like a carpet
- Increased crow, starling, or skunk activity digging at your lawn
If you suspect grubs, pull back a patch of turf and check the soil. More than five grubs per square foot generally warrants treatment. Ask your local Feeds’n Needs team for current product options available in your province.
6. Control Weeds with a Healthy Lawn
Weeds move into thin, stressed, or compacted lawns. Dandelions, clover, and crabgrass are common in Maritime summers, especially where grass is weak.
The best weed control is a thick, healthy lawn. Support it by:
- Mowing high
- Overseeding thin areas
- Watering during dry periods
- Feeding established lawns at the right time
- Repairing bare spots quickly
For more, read: Effective Weed Control: Essentials for Your Lawn
7. Protect Your Lawn from Pet Damage
Dogs are hard on summer lawns. Urine spots, worn paths, and compacted areas from repeated use are common complaints.
To reduce pet damage:
- Rinse urine spots with water as soon as possible
- Consider a designated pet area with mulch or gravel
- Reseed damaged spots when conditions allow
- Keep pets off newly seeded areas until grass is established
Read more: Tips to Safeguard Your Lawn from Pet Damage
8. Repair Bare Spots — Or Wait Until Fall
Summer seeding is possible but challenging. Heat and dry conditions make consistent moisture critical for germination.
For small summer repairs:
- Rake away dead grass and loosen the soil
- Add a thin layer of quality lawn soil if needed
- Apply Triple Mix Lawn Seed or Premium Lawn Mix
- Lightly rake seed into soil
- Water lightly and frequently until established
- Keep foot traffic off the area
If conditions are very hot and dry, late summer or early fall will give you significantly better results.
9. Choose the Right Seed for the Job
| Seed | Best For |
|---|---|
| Triple Mix Lawn Seed | General repair, overseeding, pet damage, everyday bare spots |
| Premium Lawn Mix | Front yards, play areas, high-visibility or finished lawn spaces |
| Highway Mix | Ditches, slopes, driveway edges, rural or low-maintenance areas |
10. Consider Lime If Your Soil Is Acidic
Maritime soils tend to be acidic, and summer is a good time to think about soil pH. Lime helps neutralize acidic soil so your lawn can actually absorb the nutrients you’re applying.
If your lawn looks pale despite regular feeding, or fertilizer doesn’t seem to be working, low soil pH may be the issue. A simple soil test can confirm this. Ask at your local Feeds’n Needs — our team can help you test and recommend the right lime application rate.
Plan Ahead: Fall Is the Best Time to Recover
If your lawn struggled this summer, don’t worry. Fall is the best season for overseeding, aeration, lime application, and fertilizing cool-season grasses. Late summer and early fall give your lawn a chance to repair before winter.
Read more: Fall Lawn Care Tips
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I water my lawn in summer in the Maritimes?
Water deeply two to three times per week rather than lightly every day. Early morning is best to reduce evaporation and disease risk.
Should I fertilize my lawn in summer?
Yes, but only when your lawn is actively growing and not under heat or drought stress. Use 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer for established lawns.
How do I tell if my lawn is dormant or dead?
Dormant grass is tan or straw-coloured but the crowns (just above soil level) remain firm and white-green. Dead grass has dry, brittle crowns. Pull a small plug — if the crown snaps rather than bends, the grass may be dead and need reseeding.
What height should I mow my lawn in summer?
Keep grass at 2.5 to 3 inches. Taller grass shades the soil, reduces moisture loss, and competes better against weeds.
Why is my lawn turning brown in summer?
Brown patches may result from drought dormancy, pet urine, grub damage, fungal disease, compacted soil, or mowing too short. Water first and assess whether the pattern suggests insects, disease, or drought stress.
What lawn seed is best for summer repairs in Atlantic Canada?
Triple Mix Lawn Seed is a reliable all-purpose option. Use Premium Lawn Mix for front yards or finished spaces where appearance matters most.
How do I know if I have grubs in my lawn?
Look for irregular brown patches that don’t green up after rain, spongy turf, or digging by birds and wildlife. Pull back a section of turf and check for white C-shaped larvae in the soil.
Does my lawn need lime?
Maritime soils are often acidic. If your lawn doesn’t respond well to fertilizer, a soil test may reveal low pH. Lime corrects this and improves nutrient uptake.
Recommended Products for Maritime Summer Lawn Care
- 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer – Steady feeding and greener colour for established lawns
- Triple Mix Lawn Seed – All-purpose bare spot and general repair seed
- Premium Lawn Mix – Thick, attractive results for residential and high-visibility lawns
- Highway Mix – Durable ground cover for slopes, ditches, and low-maintenance areas
- Lime – Corrects acidic Maritime soil so nutrients are actually absorbed
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, or PEI for expert advice and the right products for your yard.


Maritime Spring Lawn Care: Repair, Seed, Fertilize, and Grow a Greener Lawn
After a long Maritime winter, it’s normal for your lawn to look rough. Snow mold, salt damage, ice, matted grass, bare spots, and compacted soil are all common sights across Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and PEI come spring. The encouraging news is that cool-season grasses are remarkably resilient — with the right timing and approach, most lawns recover quickly and grow back stronger than before.
Maritime lawns are typically made up of cool-season grasses — Kentucky Bluegrass, Fine Fescue, and Perennial Ryegrass — which grow best during the cooler, moister parts of spring and fall. These grasses respond well to spring care when conditions are right, but getting the timing wrong — especially starting too early on wet soil — can do more harm than good.
This guide walks you through every step of Maritime spring lawn care, from the first cleanup after snowmelt to fertilizing, seeding, liming, and preparing for a healthy summer.
Key Takeaways
- Wait until the ground firms up before raking, aerating, or heavy foot traffic — wet soil compacts easily and damages emerging roots
- Identify snow mold and salt damage before starting any repair work
- Use 17-17-17 fertilizer for new lawns, overseeding, and bare spot repair
- Use 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer for established lawns needing steady green-up
- Use Triple Mix Lawn Seed for general repair and overseeding
- Use Premium Lawn Mix for front yards and high-visibility finished lawn areas
- Use Highway Mix for slopes, ditches, and low-maintenance spaces
- Lime if your soil is acidic — this is very common across Maritime soils and often overlooked
- A sharp mower blade and a high first cut set the tone for the entire growing season
1. Don’t Start Too Early — Timing Is Everything in the Maritimes
The most common spring lawn care mistake in Atlantic Canada is starting too soon. After a long winter, the urge to get outside and work on the lawn is understandable — but working on wet, saturated soil causes compaction, damages the crowns of emerging grass plants, and can set your lawn back weeks.
The simple test: Walk across your lawn. If your footprints remain visible and the ground feels spongy underfoot, it’s too early. Wait until the surface firms up and drains before doing any raking, aerating, or seeding.
In most of the Maritimes, the right window to begin spring lawn care typically opens in late April to mid-May, depending on your location, elevation, and how severe the winter was. Lawns in sheltered inland areas may be ready earlier than those in coastal or low-lying spots that hold moisture longer.
Patience at this stage pays dividends throughout the entire season.
2. Assess Winter Damage Before Doing Anything Else
Once the ground firms up, do a thorough walk of your lawn before reaching for any product. Identifying what you’re dealing with helps you prioritize your work and choose the right approach.
Snow Mold
Snow mold is one of the most common spring lawn problems across PEI, coastal Nova Scotia, and areas of New Brunswick that experience deep, prolonged snow cover. It appears as circular, matted patches — typically grayish-white or pinkish — after the snow melts. The fungal growth develops under the snowpack over winter, where conditions are cold, dark, and moist.
What to do: Don’t panic — most lawns recover from snow mold on their own once air circulation is restored. Lightly rake affected patches to break up the matted grass and allow airflow. Avoid heavy raking that pulls out grass crowns. Monitor the area over the following two to three weeks. If patches remain bare and grass crowns feel dry and brittle rather than firm and slightly flexible, those areas will need reseeding.
Prevention going forward: Avoid leaving heavy leaf cover or debris on the lawn going into fall, as this creates ideal conditions for snow mold development under the snowpack.
Salt Damage
If your lawn borders a driveway, sidewalk, road, or parking area, there’s a good chance some edges show brown or dead strips in spring. Road salt and ice melt products draw moisture out of grass tissue and can raise soil sodium levels enough to prevent healthy growth.
What to do: Flush affected areas generously with water to dilute and push the salt through the soil profile. Do this a few times over the course of a week if damage is significant. Once you’ve flushed the area and the grass has had a chance to respond, rake out any dead material and reseed bare sections. For areas that repeatedly experience salt damage year after year, consider a more salt-tolerant ground cover along those edges, or a physical barrier like edging or mulch to protect the lawn from direct salt contact.
Matted and Compacted Areas
Heavy snow, ice sheets, and winter foot traffic press down on grass plants and compact the soil below. You’ll often notice this as areas where the grass looks flat, grey, or slow to green up compared to the rest of the lawn.
What to do: Gentle raking lifts matted grass and restores airflow to the soil surface. Severely compacted areas — particularly high-traffic zones like pathways across the lawn, areas near gates, or spots where vehicles have parked — may benefit from core aeration once the ground is firm enough to handle it.
Bare and Thin Patches
Bare spots from winter pet damage, heavy foot traffic, ice scraping, or simple winter kill will be visible early in spring. Note their location and size — this helps you plan how much seed and soil amendment you’ll need before your first trip to Feeds’n Needs.
3. Your First Mow of the Season Sets the Tone
Many homeowners underestimate how important the first mow of spring is. Cut too early, too short, or with a dull blade and you stress a lawn that’s already working hard to recover.
Wait until grass is actively growing and at least 3 inches tall before the first cut. Mowing too early removes leaf tissue the plant needs for photosynthesis and energy while it’s still establishing itself after winter.
First mow guidelines:
- Set your cutting height to 2.5 to 3 inches — this is your target height for the entire spring and summer
- Never remove more than one-third of the blade in a single mowing — removing too much at once stresses the plant significantly
- Check and sharpen your mower blades before the first cut of the season — dull blades tear and fray grass rather than cutting cleanly, leaving the lawn vulnerable to disease and moisture loss
- Leave clippings on the lawn when possible — they break down quickly and return nitrogen and organic matter to the soil
- Avoid mowing when the lawn is wet or the soil is still soft enough to show ruts from the mower wheels
Going into summer with a consistently high mowing habit — established right from that first spring cut — is one of the most effective things you can do for long-term lawn health.
4. New Lawn vs. Established Lawn: Two Different Approaches
Understanding which category your lawn falls into helps you choose the right products and sequence of steps.
Starting a New Lawn or Repairing Large Bare Areas
When you’re establishing grass from scratch or repairing areas larger than a few square feet, the focus is on creating the best possible environment for seed germination and early root development.
- Loosen the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches — compacted soil makes it very difficult for new roots to establish
- Add quality lawn soil or compost if the existing soil is poor, heavily compacted, or lacks organic matter — good seed-to-soil contact is essential for germination
- Choose the right seed for the area (see seed selection guide below)
- Apply seed at the recommended rate — more is not always better; overcrowded seedlings compete with each other and can lead to thin, weak grass
- Lightly rake seed into the top quarter-inch of soil — seed sitting on top of the surface is vulnerable to drying out, washing away, and being eaten by birds
- Apply 17-17-17 fertilizer according to label directions — the balanced NPK ratio supports both early top growth and the root development that new seedlings need most
- Water lightly and frequently to keep the seed bed consistently moist until germination — typically one to two times per day in dry conditions, less in cool or wet weather
- Stay off the area until new grass is at least 2 to 3 inches tall and has been mowed at least once — foot traffic on new seedlings causes significant damage
Maintaining an Established Lawn
For lawns that already have grass growing but need spring refreshing, repair, and strengthening:
- Rake lightly to remove winter debris and lift matted grass — check for thatch at the same time
- Address thatch if the layer is thicker than half an inch — thatch is a buildup of dead organic material between the soil surface and the green grass blades that can block water, air, and nutrients from reaching roots
- Patch bare spots with appropriate seed (see below)
- Test and lime if soil pH is a concern — very common in Maritime soils
- Aerate compacted areas once the ground is firm enough
- Apply 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer once grass is clearly actively growing — not too early, and not when the ground is still cold
- Mow high from the very first cut and maintain that height through the season
5. Choose the Right Lawn Seed for Each Area
Not all lawn areas are the same, and choosing the right seed for each situation saves time, money, and frustration.
| Seed | Best For |
|---|---|
| Triple Mix Lawn Seed | General repair, overseeding, bare patches, everyday residential lawn touch-ups |
| Premium Lawn Mix | Front yards, family play areas, high-visibility and finished lawn spaces, mixed sun and shade |
| Highway Mix | Slopes, ditches, driveway edges, rural properties, utility and low-maintenance areas |
A closer look at Premium Lawn Mix: Quality premium blends for Maritime lawns typically combine Kentucky Bluegrass for dense, attractive turf; Perennial Ryegrass for fast germination and quick establishment; and Fine Fescue for shade tolerance and lower-maintenance performance. This combination makes Premium Lawn Mix well-suited to the range of conditions found in a typical Maritime residential yard — including areas with partial shade, some foot traffic, and variable soil moisture.
Overseeding tip for established lawns: When overseeding thin areas in an established lawn, mow the existing grass slightly shorter than usual before applying seed — this improves seed-to-soil contact and reduces competition from existing grass during the germination period. Return to your normal high mowing height once the new seed is established.
Tip: Use Premium Lawn Mix where appearance matters most, Triple Mix for everyday repair and overseeding, and Highway Mix for practical ground cover in tough or low-maintenance spots.
6. Choose the Right Fertilizer — and Understand Why It Matters
The three numbers on any fertilizer bag represent the percentage of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in the product. Understanding what each does helps you choose the right product for your situation.
- Nitrogen (N) drives green, leafy top growth — the lush colour people associate with a healthy lawn
- Phosphorus (P) supports root development, establishment, and energy transfer within the plant — particularly important for seedlings and recovering lawns
- Potassium (K) strengthens the plant’s ability to handle stress from drought, disease, temperature extremes, and heavy use
17-17-17 Balanced Fertilizer — For New Lawns and Repair
Equal amounts of all three nutrients make 17-17-17 the right choice when your lawn needs comprehensive support — not just green colour, but strong roots and stress resilience at the same time. This is the fertilizer to reach for whenever you’re establishing new grass or repairing areas that have been significantly damaged.
Use 17-17-17 when:
- Starting a new lawn from seed
- Overseeding bare or thin patches
- Repairing winter damage, snow mold patches, or salt-affected areas
- Giving a tired, pale established lawn a full nutritional reset in early spring
- You want to support both root development and top growth simultaneously
21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer — For Established Lawns
The higher nitrogen ratio combined with a slow-release format makes 21-7-7 the right choice for established lawns that are already growing and need sustained colour and vigour without the risk of nutrient spikes or burning. Slow release fertilizers feed gradually over an extended period, meaning fewer applications and more consistent results.
Use 21-7-7 Slow Release when:
- Your lawn is established and actively growing
- You want sustained green colour through the spring and into early summer
- You’re maintaining the lawn rather than starting or repairing it
- Conditions are not too cold, hot, or dry — fertilizer is most effective when grass is actively growing and soil has adequate moisture
Simple rule: Seeding or repairing? Use 17-17-17. Maintaining an established lawn? Use 21-7-7 Slow Release.
7. Lime: The Most Overlooked Step in Maritime Lawn Care
If there’s one aspect of spring lawn care that Maritime homeowners consistently overlook, it’s soil pH. Maritime soils are naturally acidic — a result of the region’s geology, rainfall patterns, and organic matter composition. When soil pH falls too low, grass cannot effectively absorb nutrients from the soil, even if you’re fertilizing regularly. This is why some lawns remain pale and thin despite consistent care.
Lime is not a fertilizer. It’s a soil amendment that raises pH and unlocks the nutrients already present in your soil so your grass can actually use them.
Signs your lawn may need lime:
- Moss spreading across the lawn — moss thrives in acidic, compacted, or shaded soil and often signals a pH problem
- Pale, yellowish, or persistently thin grass despite regular feeding
- Fertilizer doesn’t seem to be making a visible difference
- A soil test showing pH below 6.0 — cool-season grasses perform best between 6.0 and 7.0
About moss: Lime alone won’t permanently eliminate moss. Moss grows where the conditions favour it — acidic soil, shade, poor drainage, or compaction. To effectively address moss, you need to correct the underlying conditions: rake out existing moss, test and lime if pH is low, improve drainage or airflow if possible, aerate compacted areas, and overseed to encourage healthy grass to fill in. Dense, healthy grass is the most effective long-term defence against moss.
Spring and fall are both good times to apply lime. Fall applications are particularly effective in the Maritimes because rain and snowmelt gradually move lime down into the soil profile over the winter months.
Not sure about your soil pH? Ask at your local Feeds’n Needs — our team can point you in the right direction for soil testing in your area.
8. Aerate to Relieve Compaction and Improve Soil Health
Core aeration — removing small plugs of soil across the lawn — is one of the most effective things you can do for a compacted Maritime lawn. It opens up channels that allow air, water, lime, and fertilizer to penetrate deeper into the root zone rather than sitting on the surface or running off.
Spring aeration is particularly valuable after a winter with heavy snow loads, ice, or significant foot traffic on frozen ground.
Signs your lawn needs aeration:
- Water pools on the surface after rain or runs off without soaking in
- The soil feels hard and dense underfoot, even when moist
- Grass is thinning or dying in high-traffic areas despite regular watering and fertilizing
- The lawn has a dull, compacted appearance that doesn’t respond to care
- You have heavy clay soil — common in parts of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia
Important: Always wait until the ground is firm, not wet before aerating. Aerating saturated soil pulls up muddy plugs and can make compaction worse rather than better. If the ground is still soft from snowmelt, give it another week or two.
After aeration, apply lime and fertilizer — the open channels allow these products to reach the root zone much more effectively than applying to an unaerated surface.
9. Watch for Overwintered Grubs in Spring
White grubs — the larvae of European Chafer and Japanese Beetles — overwinter in the soil and become active again as it warms in spring. If you noticed irregular brown patches, spongy turf, or digging by crows, starlings, or skunks in your lawn last fall, inspect those areas closely in spring.
As soil temperatures rise, grubs move back up toward the surface to feed on grass roots before pupating. Damaged areas where roots were destroyed over winter and fall may not green up properly in spring, even with adequate moisture and fertilizer. These spots will typically need to be raked out and reseeded once the grubs have moved on.
If you’re seeing consistent grub pressure year over year in the same areas of your lawn, speak with your local Feeds’n Needs team about grub management options available in your province — regulations on certain products vary by region.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I start spring lawn care in the Maritimes?
Wait until the ground has firmed up enough that walking across the lawn doesn’t leave visible footprints. In most Maritime locations this is late April to mid-May. Starting too early on wet, soft soil causes compaction and can damage the crowns of emerging grass plants.
What is the difference between 17-17-17 and 21-7-7 fertilizer?
17-17-17 provides equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, making it ideal for new lawns, overseeding, and spring repair where you need both root development and top growth. 21-7-7 has a higher nitrogen content with a slow release formula, designed for established lawns that need sustained green colour and vigour without repeated applications.
What is snow mold and how do I fix it?
Snow mold is a fungal disease that develops under prolonged snow cover, leaving circular matted or discoloured patches after the snow melts. Lightly rake affected areas to restore airflow. Most lawns recover naturally within a few weeks; persistently bare patches may need light reseeding.
How do I repair salt damage on my lawn?
Flush affected areas with generous amounts of water to dilute and disperse the salt through the soil. Repeat a few times over a week for significant damage. Once the area shows signs of recovery or confirms it won’t recover, rake out dead grass, improve the soil if needed, and reseed.
Why is moss taking over my lawn?
Moss is a symptom, not the root problem. It thrives in acidic, shaded, poorly drained, or compacted soil. Address the underlying cause — test pH and lime if acidic, improve drainage, aerate if compacted, reduce shade where possible — and overseed with appropriate grass seed. Dense, healthy grass is your best long-term defence.
Should I lime my lawn every spring?
Not necessarily every year — lime should be applied based on soil test results. However, because Maritime soils are naturally acidic and rainfall leaches pH over time, many lawns in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and PEI benefit from lime every one to three years. A soil test gives you a clear answer.
What lawn seed is best for repairing bare patches?
Triple Mix Lawn Seed is a reliable all-purpose choice for patching and overseeding. For areas where you want a thicker, more polished result — front yards, visible lawn areas — use Premium Lawn Mix.
How often should I water newly seeded areas?
Keep the seedbed consistently moist until germination and early establishment — this typically means light watering once or twice a day in dry or windy conditions. Never let the seed bed dry out completely during the germination window, but avoid flooding. Once grass is a couple of inches tall, you can begin transitioning to deeper, less frequent watering.
Does my lawn need aeration every spring?
Not every lawn needs annual aeration, but most Maritime lawns benefit from it every one to two years, particularly those with clay soil, heavy foot traffic, or persistent compaction. If water is pooling or the soil feels hard underfoot, aeration should be part of your spring plan.
What causes thatch and how do I deal with it?
Thatch is a layer of dead grass stems, roots, and organic material that accumulates between the soil surface and the green grass blades. A thin layer (under half an inch) is normal and even beneficial. A thicker layer blocks water, air, and nutrients from reaching roots. Dethatch in spring once the ground is firm, using a dethatching rake for small areas or a power dethatcher for larger lawns. Follow up with overseeding and fertilizing to help the lawn fill back in.
Recommended Products for Maritime Spring Lawn Care
- 17-17-17 Balanced Fertilizer — Complete nutrition for new lawns, overseeding, and spring repairs
- 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer — Sustained green-up and steady feeding for established lawns
- Triple Mix Lawn Seed — Reliable all-purpose patching and overseeding
- Premium Lawn Mix — Thick, attractive, finished results for residential and high-visibility lawns
- Highway Mix — Durable, practical ground cover for slopes, ditches, and low-maintenance areas
- Lime — Essential for correcting the acidic Maritime soils that prevent nutrients from being absorbed
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, or PEI for lawn seed, fertilizer, lime, and expert seasonal advice tailored to your yard and your region.


Is pasture enough for horses in the summer?
Understanding nutrition gaps, Grazing management & Supplement needs
For many horse owners across Atlantic Canada, summer means lush green fields, longer grazing hours, and horses spending more time outdoors. It’s easy to assume that a horse surrounded by green grass is receiving all the nutrition they need.
While quality pasture can be an excellent source of forage, energy, and fiber, it doesn’t always provide a complete nutritional package. Factors such as weather, grazing pressure, soil health, and seasonal changes can significantly impact the nutritional value of pasture throughout the summer.
Whether you own a retired pasture companion, a growing youngster, a senior horse, or an active performance horse, understanding the strengths and limitations of pasture is an important part of managing your horse’s health.
The benefits of summer pasture
Healthy pasture offer several advantages for horses:
- Natural forage and fiber
- Consistent movement and grazing behavior
- A source of calories and energy
- Improved mental well-being
- Reduced reliance on stored feeds
In ideal conditions, pasture can contribute to a significant portion of a horse’s daily nutritional needs. However, “green” doesn’t always mean “nutritionally complete.”
Why pasture quality changes throughout the summer
Your Pasture is constantly changing. What your horse grazes in May can be very different from what they consume in July or August. Several factors influence pasture quality:
Overgrazing: One of the most common pasture management challenges is overgrazing.
When horses repeatedly graze the same area, grass plants are unable to recover properly. Over time, desirable forage species decline, weeds become more prevalent, and overall forage production decreases.
Overgrazed pastures often look green from a distance but provide significantly less nutrition than healthy, actively growing grass.
Weather and drought stress: Atlantic Canada’s weather can vary dramatically throughout the summer. Extended dry periods slow grass growth and reduce forage availability. Even when grass remains present, drought-stressed plants often contain lower nutritional value than actively growing pasture.
Seasonal changes: As grasses mature, their nutritional profile changes. Early-season pasture tends to be higher in digestible energy and protein, while mature summer pasture often contains more fiber and fewer readily available nutrients.
Soil health and nutrient levels: The nutritional value of pasture starts with the soil. Pastures that haven’t been soil tested or properly managed may lack important nutrients needed to support healthy forage growth. This can ultimately affect the nutritional quality of the grass available to horses.
The importance of pasture rotation
One of the best ways to improve pasture quality is through rotational grazing. Pasture rotation involves dividing fields into smaller sections and moving horses periodically to allow the grazed areas time to recover.
Benefits of rotational grazing include:
- Healthier root systems
- Improved forage production
- Reduced weed pressure
- Better drought resilience
- More consistent nutritional value
- Less soil compaction and erosion
Allowing grass to have adequate recovery time helps maintain a healthier pasture throughout the growing season and can significantly extend grazing availability.
Even small hobby farms can benefit from simple rotation systems using temporary fencing to create separate grazing areas.
How to support your horse on pasture
The best feeding programs start with regular observation and evaluation.
Monitor your horse’s:
- Body condition score
- Weight and topline
- Coat quality
- Energy levels
- Hoof condition
- Overall health
Depending on your horse’s needs, nutritional support may include:
- Vitamin and mineral supplements
- Salt blocks or loose salt
- Additional hay during dry periods
- Concentrates or feeds for working horses
- Senior-specific feeds
- Protein or energy supplementation when needed
Every horse and pasture system is different, making an individualized approach important.
Pasture is one of the most valuable tools available to horse owners, but it isn’t always a complete feeding program on its own.
Changes in weather, grazing pressure, soil health, and seasonal growth can all impact the nutritional value of your pasture throughout the summer. By practicing good pasture management, utilizing rotational grazing, and monitoring your horse’s condition regularly, you can help ensure they receive the nutrition they need.
If you’re unsure whether your horse’s pasture is meeting their nutritional requirements, visit your local Feeds’n Needs store. Our knowledgeable team can help you select the right feeds, supplements, minerals, and forage solutions to support your horse’s health all summer long.


How much water should a horse drink in the summer?
Signs of dehydration, hydration tips & daily water needs
Summer in Atlantic Canada means longer days, warmer temperatures, trail rides, horse shows, and more time spent outdoors. While most horse owners focus on feed, pasture quality, and fly control during the warmer months, one of the most important aspects of summer horse care is often the simplest: water.
Hydration plays a critical role in your horse’s overall health, performance, digestion, and recovery. Understanding how much your horse should drink—and recognizing when they’re not getting enough—can help prevent serious health concerns during the hottest months of the year.
Why water intake matters more in summer
Water is the most important nutrient in your horse’s diet. During summer, horses lose significant amounts of fluid through sweating as they regulate their body temperature.
Several factors can increase a horse’s risk of dehydration, including:
- Hot temperatures
- High humidity
- Increased exercise and training
- Long trailer rides
- Horse shows and competitions
- Dry forage diets
- Limited shade or pasture access
Even mild dehydration can impact digestion, recovery, and performance. More severe dehydration can contribute to the impact of colic, heat stress, and electrolyte imbalances.
How much water should a horse drink?
A typical horse will drink between 20 and 60 liters of water per day, depending on their size, workload, diet, and environmental conditions.
As a general guideline:
- Horses at rest in moderate weather may drink 20–30 liters daily.
- Horses working regularly or spending long hours in the sun may consume 40–60 liters or more.
- Lactating mares and growing horses often require additional water.
- Horses eating primarily dry hay typically drink more water than horses grazing lush pasture.
The key is knowing what is normal for your horse and monitoring changes.
Factors that increase water requirements:
Hot weather: As temperatures rise, horses sweat more to cool themselves. Increased sweating means increased fluid loss that must be replaced.
Humidity: Atlantic Canadian summers often bring high humidity. Humid conditions make it harder for sweat to evaporate, causing horses to sweat longer and lose more fluids.
Exercise and performance: Whether you’re competing on the show circuit, trail riding, or training regularly, exercise significantly increases water requirements. Performance horses can lose several liters of fluid during a single workout.
Dry hay diets: Hay contains very little moisture compared to fresh pasture. Horses consuming mostly hay must make up the difference through increased water intake.
Travel: Many horses drink less while traveling because water tastes different at new locations or because the stress of transport reduces their desire to drink.
Senior horses: Older horses may be less efficient at regulating body temperature and can be more susceptible to dehydration during heat waves.
Dehydration; What to look for in your horse
Dehydration can develop quickly during warm weather. Watch for these common warning signs:
- Dry or firm manure
- Reduced appetite
- Lethargy or fatigue
- Slow recovery after exercise
- Reduced performance
- Darker urine
- Dry gums
- Skin that tents when gently pinched
If you suspect significant dehydration, contact your veterinarian immediately.
Tips to encourage water intake
Clean and fresh: Horses are surprisingly picky about water quality. Scrub buckets, troughs, and automatic waterers regularly encourage drinking.
Offer multiple options: Providing several water stations in fields, paddocks, and barns can encourage horses to drink more frequently.
Soaking feed: Adding water to beet pulp, hay cubes, pellets, or senior feeds can significantly increase daily water consumption.
Bring water from home: Many horses dislike unfamiliar water. Bringing water from home to horse shows or events can help maintain normal drinking habits.
Provide shade: Shade helps reduce heat stress and encourages horses to spend more time near water sources.
Electrolytes: Horses that sweat heavily may benefit from electrolyte supplementation to help replace minerals lost through sweat and encourage drinking. Always follow feeding directions and ensure fresh water is available.
Product support products here at Feeds’n Needs
Several products can help support hydration during the summer months, including:
- Electrolyte supplements
- Performance horse hydration products
- Senior horse feeds designed for easy soaking
- Beet pulp and other moisture-friendly feeds
- Salt blocks and loose salt options
Our team can help you choose the right hydration strategy based on your horse’s age, workload, and lifestyle.


Summer feed tips for show horses
Keeping nutrition performance on track during the show season.
Summer is one of the busiest times of year for horse owners across Atlantic Canada. From local schooling shows and gymkhanas to provincial hunter-jumper, dressage, western circuits, horses are travelling more, working harder, and facing additional stressors that can impact their health and performance.
While training and conditioning are important, nutrition plays a major role in helping horses maintain energy, hydration, recovery, and overall condition throughout the season.
At Feeds’n Needs, we understand the demands of Atlantic Canada’s equine community and the challenges that come with hauling, competing, and keeping horses performing at their best all summer long.
Summer challenges for show horses
Competition season introduces several factors that can affect a horse’s nutritional needs, including:
- Travel and trailer stress
- Unfamiliar water sources
- Reduced appetite
- Increased sweating
- Hot, humid weather
- More frequent training and competition
Even experienced show horses can experience changes in hydration, feed intake, and recovery during a busy season.
Feeding priorities during the show season
Keeping feed consistent: Avoid making major feed changes during competition season whenever possible. Maintaining a consistent feeding program helps support digestive health and reduces unnecessary stress.
Prioritize forage: High-quality forage should remain the foundation of every show horse’s diet. Consistent access to hay supports digestive function, hydration, and steady energy levels, especially when travelling.
Focus on hydration: Proper hydration is essential for muscle function, temperature regulation, recovery, and performance. Even mild dehydration can affect stamina and recovery time.
Monitor body condition: Competition schedules can make it easy to overlook gradual changes in weight or muscle condition. Regularly evaluate your horse’s topline, body condition, coat quality, and overall appearance throughout the season.
Nutritional support: Depending on your horse’s workload and individual needs, several products may help support performance and recovery during the summer months:
Electrolytes: Electrolytes help replace minerals lost through sweat and support hydration during training, competition, and travel.
Vitamin and mineral support: A balanced vitamin and mineral program helps support overall health, muscle function, and performance throughout the season.
Hydration support products: Hydration-focused supplements can help encourage drinking and support fluid balance during periods of increased work.
Easy-to-feed support: Products such as beet pulp and other digestible fibre sources can provide additional calories while helping support hydration and digestive health.
Successful show seasons aren’t built on performance alone—they start with preparation.
At Feeds’n Needs, we work with equestrians across Atlantic Canada and understand the unique demands of our summer show season. From hydration support and electrolytes to feeds, supplements, and forage solutions, our team can help you build a nutrition program that fits your horse’s needs.


Winter Wellness for Dogs: The Right Foods for the Season
Winter has arrived, and while we’re cozy under blankets and sipping warm drinks, our dogs feel the chill too. Winter isn’t just about keeping them warm, it’s about giving them the right nutrition to stay healthy and energetic all season long.
If you’re a pet parent wondering how to support your dog during colder months, here’s what you need to know.
Why Winter Nutrition Matters
Cold weather means your dog uses more energy to stay warm. Without proper nutrition, they can experience fatigue, a dull coat, or lowered immunity. A balanced diet tailored for winter helps keep them strong, active, and happy.
Essential Food Categories for Winter Wellness
- Protein-Packed Meals
Protein is the foundation of your dog’s health. It supports muscle strength and energy—especially important when temperatures drop. Look for high-quality kibble or wet food featuring real meat like chicken, fish, or lamb.
Tip: Check labels for “high-protein” formulas to meet seasonal energy needs.
- Healthy Fats for Warmth
Fats provide concentrated energy and help maintain a shiny coat. Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids are key for skin health and warmth. Fish oil or flaxseed are great additions, and many premium foods include these naturally.
Pro Tip: Balance is important, too much fat can lead to weight gain.
- Fibre for Digestive Health
Seasonal changes can affect digestion. Fibre from carrots, pumpkin, or sweet potatoes keeps your dog’s gut healthy and helps them feel full. Many complete diets include fibre-rich ingredients for convenience. - Vitamins & Minerals for Immunity
Winter can challenge your dog’s immune system. Nutrients like Vitamin C, Vitamin D, and zinc help fight seasonal stress. Choose foods fortified with essential vitamins and minerals to keep their defences strong. - Hydration-Friendly Options
Dogs often drink less water in winter. Wet food or pet-safe broths can help maintain hydration. Serving warm broth over kibble is a comforting way to boost fluid intake.
Extra Tips for Winter Care
- Adjust Portions: If your dog is less active, reduce food slightly to avoid weight gain.
- Serve Warm Meals: A little warmth makes mealtime more inviting.
- Keep Them Cozy: Blankets, coats, and indoor play keep your dog comfortable and happy.
The Bottom Line
Winter doesn’t have to slow your dog down. By focusing on protein, healthy fats, fibre, vitamins, and hydration, you’ll help them thrive through the season. Explore Feeds’n Needs’ selection of premium pet foods and winter care essentials—because a healthy dog is a happy dog.


Cleaning Your Horse Track for Riding Season
As winter fades and riding season approaches, giving your horse track a thorough clean‑up is one of the best ways to set the stage for safer, smoother training sessions. A well‑maintained track supports better footing, prevents injuries, and keeps your horse performing at their best. Here’s how to get your track ride‑ready this spring.
- Clear Away Debris
Start by walking the track and removing any fallen branches, rocks, leaves, or broken fencing that may have accumulated over the winter. Even small debris can throw off footing or create hazards for horses moving at speed.
- Check Drainage
Spring melt can leave tracks damp or uneven. Take note of puddles or soft spots—these often indicate drainage issues. Clearing ditches, leveling low areas, or adding drainage material helps ensure a safer, more consistent surface.
- Repair Fencing & Perimeter Areas
Inspect the track edges and fencing for winter damage. Replace loose boards, tighten wire, and ensure gates latch properly. A secure, well‑marked boundary helps keep horses focused and riders safe.
- Groom the Footing
Footing makes all the difference. Use a harrow or drag to break up compacted areas, redistribute material, and smooth the surface. This reduces strain on your horse’s joints and provides even traction throughout the track.
If your footing feels thin or uneven, consider adding fresh material—sand, screenings, or specialized footing—depending on what your track is built from.
- Address Dust Early
As temperatures rise, dust becomes a common challenge. Watering the track or using dust‑control products helps maintain visibility and comfort for both horse and rider.
- Inspect Jumps & Training Equipment
If your track includes jumps or training markers, give them a spring tune‑up. Check for loose screws, broken poles, rotted wood, and faded markers. Safe, clearly visible equipment supports better training sessions.
- Create a Maintenance Routine
Once your track is clean and ready for spring, keep it that way with a simple weekly routine—dragging, debris checks, and moisture management go a long way toward preserving footing and preventing wear.
Ready, Set, Ride!
With a bit of spring prep, your horse track can be safe, comfortable, and ready for a great riding season ahead. A clean, well‑maintained surface doesn’t just look good—it protects your horse’s health and helps every ride feel better.


The Benefits Of A Raw Food Diet For Dogs & Cats
If your pet could write their own grocery list, there’s a good chance “more raw food, please!” would be at the top. Raw diets have been getting tons of love lately and for good reason! From better nutrition to allergy‑friendly options, there are plenty of benefits packed into every bowl. And when it comes to choosing a trustworthy raw brand, Big Country Raw is a standout star.
- Made in Canada, With Love (and Great Ingredients)
Big Country Raw is a Canadian, family‑owned company based in Ontario, proudly using Canadian‑sourced ingredients in all their recipes, except their imported kangaroo protein (which would be tricky to find in the wilds of Ontario). Their commitment to local sourcing means fresher ingredients and higher quality in every bite. Plus, with a certified pet nutritionist on staff, they ensure every recipe is expertly balanced to support your pet’s health from bowl to tail. - Safety You Can Trust
Big Country Raw is HACCP certified, an internationally recognized food safety standard that ensures strict control over biological, chemical, and physical hazards. It’s the same level of oversight used in human food production, giving pet parents peace of mind. - Allergy‑Friendly Options & So Much Variety
Got an itchy dog? A picky eater? A pet with mysterious tummy troubles? With nine different proteins and a wide range of natural supplements, Big Country Raw makes it easy to tailor meals to your pet’s needs. Dogs with allergies or health concerns often thrive on raw because it’s minimally processed and rich in clean, species‑appropriate ingredients. - Nutrients That Actually Get Absorbed
The magic of raw food is how naturally digestible it is. Without heavy processing, pets can absorb nutrients more effectively leading to shinier coats, better digestion, and a whole lot more tail wagging. - Cats Need Taurine, Raw Has Plenty
Fun fact: cats can’t produce their own taurine, an essential nutrient for heart health, vision, and overall wellbeing. Big Country Raw’s cat formulas naturally contain high taurine levels, giving your feline friend exactly what they need. - Backed by a 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
Trying raw for the first time? No stress! Big Country Raw backs all food and supplements with a 100% satisfaction guarantee, making raw feeding easier and more approachable for everyone.
Raw feeding doesn’t have to be complicated—and with high-quality brands like Big Country Raw, it’s easier than ever. Better ingredients, better nutrition, and better results… your pet just might thank you with extra cuddles.
If you have any questions about a raw food diet for your pet, the knowledgeable staff at Feeds’n Needs are happy to help!
More info on raw food diets: Raw Master Class


Nesting Boxes: Prep Your Backyard for Spring Birds!
As winter fades and the first signs of spring begin to appear, birds across your neighbourhood are searching for safe, cozy places to raise their young. Adding nesting boxes to your backyard is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to support local bird populations while enjoying a little more feathered charm right outside your window. Here’s how to get your backyard spring‑ready for nesting season!
Why Nesting Boxes Matter
Natural tree cavities are becoming harder for birds to find, especially in urban and suburban areas. Nesting boxes provide:
- Safe shelter from predators
- Protection from spring weather
- A dedicated space for raising chicks
- A way to attract more bird species to your backyard
From chickadees to bluebirds, many species rely on human‑made nest boxes as part of their spring routine.
Choose the Right Nesting Box
Not all birds use the same type of nest box. Before buying or installing one, consider:
Hole Size
Different birds need different entrance sizes:
- Chickadees: ~1 1/8″
- Bluebirds: ~1 1/2″
- Tree swallows: ~1 1/2″
Matching the size helps attract the right species and keep unwanted visitors out.
Material
Look for untreated wood (pine, cedar, spruce). Avoid plastic or thin materials, which can trap heat and moisture.
Ventilation & Drainage
Quality nesting boxes include vents at the top and drainage at the bottom to keep chicks dry and comfortable.
Where to Place Your Nesting Box
Placement matters! For best success:
- Mount boxes 5–10 feet off the ground
- Face them east or southeast to avoid harsh afternoon sun
- Keep away from heavy foot traffic and high‑activity areas
- Space boxes well apart to reduce competition between species
- Ensure there’s open flight access to avoid thick branches blocking the entrance
If you’re installing multiple boxes for species like bluebirds or tree swallows, consider placing them in pairs or clusters to reduce territorial disputes.
Clean & Prep Before Spring
Before birds begin searching for homes (usually late February into March), take a few minutes to:
- Clean out old nesting material
- Remove debris, broken pieces, or old bedding
- Check screws, roofs, and panels for winter wear
- Make sure drainage holes are clear
- Secure the box tightly so it won’t wobble in the wind
A clean, sturdy box increases your chances of hosting a successful brood.
Help Make Nesting Season a Success
Little touches can make your yard even more inviting:
- Offer natural nesting materials like twigs, dried grasses, or pet‑safe fur
- Provide fresh water in a clean birdbath
- Avoid using pesticides as birds rely on insects to feed their chicks
- Add bird feeders nearby to help parents refuel throughout the day
A supportive environment encourages birds to stay and return year after year.
Enjoy a Spring Full of Song
Setting up nesting boxes is a simple, affordable way to enjoy more bird activity this spring while supporting local wildlife. With the right placement, maintenance, and materials, your backyard could become a safe nursery for some of your favourite feathered friends.