Whether you’re considering adding meat birds, laying hens, or turkeys to your backyard flock, each type offers unique advantages. From providing fresh, high-quality food to contributing to a more sustainable lifestyle, backyard birds can be a rewarding addition to your home. Let’s explore the specific benefits of each type of bird and how they can enhance your backyard farming experience.
Meat Birds
- Superior Quality Meat: By raising your own meat birds, you ensure a supply of fresh, high-quality meat, free from hormones and antibiotics.
- Diet Control: You have the ability to manage their diet, leading to healthier and more flavourful meat.
- Cost Efficiency: Over time, raising meat birds can be more economical than buying meat from the store, especially if you raise them in larger numbers.
- Sustainability: Raising your own meat birds supports a more sustainable lifestyle by reducing dependence on commercial meat production.
Laying Hens
- Fresh Eggs: Enjoy a steady supply of fresh, nutritious eggs, often richer in omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins compared to store-bought eggs.
- Natural Pest Control: Chickens help control pests in your yard by foraging for insects.
- Organic Fertilizer: Chicken manure is an excellent fertilizer, enhancing your garden’s soil with essential nutrients.
- Educational Value: Raising hens can be a wonderful educational experience for children, teaching them about responsibility and the origins of their food.
Turkeys
- Healthy Meat: Turkey meat is a lean, high-protein option, making it a healthy addition to your diet.
- Environmental Impact: Raising turkeys can lower your carbon footprint compared to commercial farming and they help reduce waste by consuming kitchen scraps.
- Economic Benefits: Save on grocery bills and potentially earn extra income by selling turkey meat, eggs, or feathers.
- Family Activity: Caring for turkeys can be a fun family project, promoting teamwork and sustainable living practices.
Gift Guide for Homesteaders
Looking for the perfect Christmas Gifts? Feeds’n Needs has a great selection of gifts for everyone on your list! Here are some of our top ideas:
Books – Farmer’s Almanac, gardening books, recipe books, and how-to books, you’ll be sure to find the perfect option!
Canning & Preserving Supplies – Mason jars, lids, and fermentation kits so that someone on your list you’re shopping for can preserve the foods they grow!
Seed-Starting Supplies – Help them prepare for the upcoming growing season by gifting them seed-starting supplies! Plant pots, trays, starter soil, peat pellets, plant markers, etc.
Sprout Growing Kit – For greens all year long, you can’t go wrong with sprouts. Healthy and packed full of nutrients, sprouts are both easy and fun to grow, so get them started with a sprout starter kit!
Vesey’s Seeds – The gift that keeps on giving! Gift them high-quality Vesey’s seeds this Christmas.
Gardening Supplies – Gardening gloves, tools, a soil test kit, a rain gauge, etc. Useful gifts they’ll surely appreciate!
Beekeeping Starter Kit – Bees play a vital role in fertilizing the plants we grow, and their by-products can be used for all sorts of things! If someone on your list is interested in beekeeping, a starter kit could be the perfect gift for them!
Farm Décor – Chicken coop signs, farm style décor, garden flags, door mats, and so much more will make perfect gifts for the homesteader in your life!
Walton Wood Farm Products – Consciously crafted, natural beauty and personal care products make the perfect gift for any hard-working homesteader to relax and pamper themselves!
Rescue Coffee – Premium, fair trade, organic coffee for a good cause! With each bag purchased, 10% of the profits go towards helping local shelter animals. Available in multiple delicious flavours.
Coffee Mug – Pair a new mug with a bag of rescue coffee, and you’ve got a perfect gift for the coffee lover on your list!
Apron – A great gift for the homesteader who loves to cook and bake!
Egg Basket – An excellent tool for the chicken farmer in your life. Egg baskets make egg collection easy with less risk of breaking eggs!
Feeds’n Needs Gift Card – Not sure what they would like? Why not give them a gift card to Feeds’ n Needs?!
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs to find the perfect gift for everyone on your list!
Winter Horse Care Basics
As the cold weather sets in, horse owners face the unique challenge of keeping their equine companions safe, comfortable, and healthy throughout winter. From managing their shelter and nutrition to ensuring proper grooming and exercise, this guide will walk you through the key steps to help your horse thrive during the colder season. With a bit of preparation and attention to detail, you can ensure your horse stays warm, safe, and happy all winter long.
How Do Horses Keep Themselves Warm?
Horses are naturally well-equipped to handle cold weather, as they can regulate their body temperature within a range of 5°C to 25°C. When temperatures drop below 5°C, horses will increase their natural defences against cold by:
- Eating more forage.
- Managing their blood flow, reducing flow to the limbs and pooling most of their blood to their core and vital organs.
- Growing a thick winter hair coat.
- Increasing movement and shivering.
- Seeking shelter.
Several factors may contribute to how well your horse manages the cold, including their age (if they’re very old or young), if they are clipped, whether they have access to shelter, etc. If not properly cared for during the winter, a horse’s body condition may backslide, making for an unhealthy and underweight horse come spring.
Winter Feeding
One of the main ways that horses can keep warm during winter is by eating. The process of microbial fermentation of forage in a horse’s digestive system generates heat in their body. Horses will burn more calories in the winter to stay warm, so compensate for this by feeding them more forage. It is recommended to feed horses 1.5% – 3% of their body weight in forage during the colder months.
Water Intake
One of the challenges of caring for horses in the winter is their disinclination to drink water. This means that dehydration is a great concern in the winter, so finding ways to entice your horse to drink is very important. Most 1000 lb horses require at least 10 -12 gallons of water per day, and the following tips should help you get your horse to drink their daily requirement:
- Install a bucket heater or trough deicer to keep water from freezing
- Increase your horses salt intake by offering a free-choice salt lick in their stall or add a loose mineral supplement to their feed.
- Consider adding electrolytes to your horse’s water to help prevent dehydration
- Keep water clean and fresh for your horse
Provide Shelter
Access to shelter is crucial for helping horses withstand colder temperatures and stay protected during the winter months. A run-in shed provides an important buffer against extreme weather conditions like wind, rain, and snow, which can quickly lower their body temperature and lead to discomfort or health risks. By providing a safe place to retreat from the elements, horses can tolerate lower temperatures and help them stay healthy and comfortable throughout the winter season.
Reducing Ice Buildup
Icy conditions in winter pose slipping risks to not only us but our equine companions as well. It’s essential to be aware of freeze-thaw patterns and stay on top of preventing ice buildup in places your horse frequents, such as stalls, around their water trough, north sides of buildings, paddocks, etc. A few of the ways you can be proactive in preventing and reducing ice buildup are:
- Repair leaky rain gutters on barns or run-ins that drip and form ice.
- Avoid spilling water when filling troughs and repair any leaks that may drip.
- Remove snow from frequently used pathways and paddocks to decrease water buildup and frozen puddles.
- Reduce the amount of manure in the paddock, as it is prone to freezing and will leave you with a muddy mess in the spring!
- Improve your paddock’s grade by building up sunken ground where water may pool and freeze in the winter.
- Create traction in icy areas by putting down shavings, straw, sand or salt. Refrain from feeding horses near where you spread sand or salt, as they may eat it off the ground. Always make sure your horse has an alternative source of salt if you choose to spread pure salt to melt the ice.
Winter Hoof & Health Care
Horse hooves require lots of attention during the winter to ensure potential issues can be addressed quickly. Keep these tasks on your winter horse care to-do list:
- Regularly pick out hooves to remove snow buildup and inspect them to ensure there is no bacteria or infection in the crevices of the frog.
- Although hooves grow slower in the winter, they should still be trimmed every 6-8 weeks.
- Consider removing metal shoes and allowing your horse to go barefoot in the winter. Going barefoot gives your horse more traction on icy winter terrain.
- If you do keep your horse shod in the winter, consider adding metal studs or snow pads to their shoes.
- Ensure horses have access to a dry place to stand and dry their hooves. Hooves that are wet for extended periods of time can lead to rot and infection.
Along with regular hoof care, there are a few other health maintenance tasks to be aware of in the winter to ensure your horse is in the best health:
- Deep mud and snow make it near impossible for your horses’ legs to fully dry off, leading to skin conditions like mud fever. While providing a place for your horse to stand and dry off can help prevent this, we still recommend that you check over your horse’s legs and hooves daily for signs of disease or infection.
- Heavy hair coats and blankets can sometimes hide weight loss, so we recommend regular body condition scoring to check your horse’s weight and assess their health.
Blanketing
Not every horse needs to be blanketed in the winter. Some horses are well-equipped to handle the cold without a blanket. However, blanketing may be necessary for a horse for the following reasons:
- No shelter is available to protect from the elements during turnout when the weather drops below -15 C.
- The horse is clipped.
- The horse is very young or old.
- The horse has a body condition score of 3 or less.
- The horse isn’t acclimated to the cold.
- If there is a chance the horse will become wet due to rain, freezing rain, or calm, warm snowfall.
If you are trying to decide whether to blanket your horse in the winter, we recommend speaking to your equine veterinarian about the best decision for your horse.
If you blanket your horse, make sure that it fits them well to prevent rubbing and sores, and remove and reposition the blanket daily. Always ensure the blanket stays dry, and never put a blanket on a wet horse, as this can lead to infection or fungal diseases such as rain rot.
Exercise
Horses need regular exercise in the winter to get their blood flowing, reduce boredom, raise body temperature, and, of course, stay fit, happy and healthy. Provide lots of turnout time for exercise, and if possible, enjoy a wintertime ride when the weather is nice! One thing to consider when exercising your horse in the winter is cooling them out. Leaving a hot, wet horse to stand in the cold without properly being cooled out can lead to illness.
How to Cool Out Your Horse
Following your ride, walk your horse for 10-15 minutes to allow heat in their muscles to dissipate. Once you’ve dismounted, loosen the girth or cinch, but don’t remove the saddle yet, as cold air can cause warm muscles to cramp. Cover your horse with a cooler to help wick the moisture away while you walk them for a few more minutes. Remove the saddle, but put the cooler back on while you continue to walk your horse for a bit longer until they are cooled down.
Proper winter care is essential to keeping your horse healthy and comfortable throughout the colder months. From adjusting their diet to reducing slipping hazards, every detail matters. For more advice and top-quality products to meet your horse’s winter needs, visit us in-store – our experts are here to help you every step of the way!
For more expert advice and horse care tips, check out our blog!
Horses Hoof and Skin Health
Deworming Your Horse
Importance of Fiber in a Horses Diet
Dog Grooming Tips for Winter
While most dogs love playing in the snow, the cold and ice can be harsh on their fur and skin. Winter dog grooming is just as important as any other time of the year, possibly even more important. Here are some simple tips to help keep your dog comfortable and safe throughout the colder season.
Protect Paws
Ice and salt can irritate your dog’s paw pads. After outdoor walks, rinse their paws with warm water to remove any debris and prevent irritation. If your dog does not mind, you can put on dog socks or boots to protect their paws from the cold.
If their paw pads become cracked or chapped, apply a paw balm for added protection. You can even apply balm before walks for an extra layer of defense. Just remember to wash it off when you return inside to remove any buildup embedded in the balm.
Trim Nails Often
Cold temperatures, snow, and low humidity can make your dog’s nails more brittle, increasing the likelihood of breaks. Broken nails can be painful, even if they don’t bleed. Keeping your dog’s nails short all winter is the best way to keep them from breaking.
Protect Your Pups Nose
Your dog’s nose may need some extra attention during the winter months. Cold air can dry out their noses, causing cracks or discomfort and even impact their sense of smell. Use a special nose balm (or a combined paw-and-nose balm) to keep your dog’s nose soft and moist throughout the colder season.
Maintain Their Coat
It’s a common misconception that dogs should avoid haircuts in the winter. In reality, dogs can maintain their regular grooming routine year-round. Whether you do it yourself or visit a professional groomer, regular trims help keep your dog’s coat in top shape.
To help combat shedding and matting, brush your dog at least once a week (or daily for some breeds). Brushing is just as important. Make it a habit to brush your dog at least weekly (or daily for some breeds) to prevent mats and tangles. Brushing also helps distribute natural oils, which moisturize and protect the skin and coat. A well-maintained coat will help keep your dog warm and insulated during chilly walks.
Use Conditioner
Winter air can dry out your dog’s skin and coat, leading to dandruff, irritation, and discomfort. Regular baths help remove dirt and irritants, but follow up with a conditioner to replenish lost oils. This will soothe dry, itchy skin and help keep their fur soft and healthy.
Use a Dog Sweater or Jacket
A dog sweater or jacket can be a great investment if your dog will be outside for extended periods and has a thin or short coat. They will help keep your dog cozy during walks or outside playtime.
Following these grooming tips can help ensure your dog stays comfortable, healthy, and happy all winter!
How to Care for Chickens in Winter
As temperatures drop and snow blankets the ground, it’s essential to ensure your feathered friends remain healthy and comfortable all winter long. From preparing the coop to keeping waterers from freezing, this blog will guide you through the best practices for keeping your chickens happy and healthy throughout winter.
Manage Drafts & Insulate the Coop
Give your coop a thorough inspection, checking for any cracks or holes allowing air to flow through the coop. Straw or newspaper can be stuffed into cracks or holes to seal them and prevent drafts. Ensure your coop is well insulated before the temperature drops to keep your flock warm on those chilly winter nights. Insulating can be as easy as covering your coop with old carpets, blankets, burlap, or cardboard.
Ensure Adequate Ventilation
High moisture combined with cold temperatures can cause condensation within a coop, potentially leading to frostbite. To prevent moisture and condensation buildup in your coop, you must ensure that your coop is well-ventilated. Besides regularly cleaning up manure to remove excess moisture, there are several ways to ventilate a coop in the winter:
- Install roof vents to allow moisture to escape.
- Cover partially opened windows with burlap to allow for air movement while keeping the coop insulated.
- Open a door or window on warmer days.
Bedding Maintenance
As we discussed, keeping moisture at bay is vital when caring for chickens in the winter. Did you know that chicken manure is made up of 70% water? Because of this, cleaning up manure buildup in your coop regularly during the cold months is essential. Remove soiled bedding and replace it with fresh, dry bedding frequently. Alternatively, the deep bedding method, which involves adding 4-6 inches of bedding to the coop and regularly stirring the top layer to allow manure to move to the bottom, can provide some natural heat as the manure decomposes.
Prepare Roosts & Small, Warm Spaces in The Coop
Roosts provide a place for chickens to sleep up off the cold floor of the coop. When perched on a roost, chickens can lay on their feet and fluff their feathers out to keep themselves warm. Ensure your coop has enough roosting space for each chicken to sleep comfortably. A good rule of thumb is to have 9 inches of roosting space per chicken.
If you have a large coop, consider creating smaller areas inside where your chickens can huddle together and conserve their body heat more easily. Something as simple as a cardboard box or plastic tote turned on their side can provide a warm area for your hens while in their coop at night.
Supplemental Heat & Light
When temperatures begin to fall below freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit, 0 degrees Celsius), consider adding a supplemental heat source to your coop. Things like heat lamps, brooder plates, etc., can keep your flock warm on cold winter days; just be sure to only use products approved for use around livestock and always follow safety instructions. In addition to adding a heat source, adding a source of light to your coop can help encourage egg production as the days get shorter in the winter. Supplemental lighting can often be hooked up to a timer to ensure your hens receive 14 hours of light each day, starting in the morning hours before the sun rises. As the days gradually get longer, adjust your timer as needed.
Fresh Water & Food
Chickens need access to fresh water year-round, but wintertime is challenging when keeping waterers from freezing! Thankfully, there are several products available to prevent this from happening:
- Heated waterers that plug into an outlet
- Heated bases that you can place metal waterers on
- Chicken waterer deicers that can be placed inside certain styles of waterers
- Heated dishes or buckets
Get in the habit of checking your chicken’s water throughout the day to ensure it has not frozen. It’s a good idea to keep a spare waterer on hand in the winter so that if one freezes or breaks, you have another one ready to go. As for feeding chickens in the winter, they can remain on their regular diet; keep in mind that their feed intake may increase by up to 25% in the colder months, so don’t be afraid to keep their feeders full. Additionally, store feed in moisture-proof containers like a metal garbage can to prevent spoilage.
Egg Collection
Because eggs contain a high percentage of water, make sure to collect them quickly in the winter so they don’t freeze. Typically, hens will finish laying before noon. As you collect each egg, check for any cracks or hairline fractures, and discard any damaged eggs you find to prevent foodborne illness.
Frostbite
Frostbite typically affects the areas of a chicken that are not protected by feathers, like their comb, wattles, and feet. Frostbite can cause affected areas to appear black or gray and feel brittle. For minor cases of frostbite, you can remove the chicken from the rest of the flock and soak the affected area in room temperature water to slowly warm the area. Apply a layer of Vaseline or petroleum jelly to these at-risk areas in the winter to provide a layer of insulation and prevent frostbite damage. Severe cases of frostbite can lead to infection or worse, and veterinarian treatment is highly recommended.
How Will I Know if my Chickens Are Cold?
When a chicken’s body temperature drops below average (106 degrees Fahrenheit, 41 degrees Celsius), they may experience cold stress, leading to reduced egg production and, in severe cases, death. When chickens are cold, they may exhibit the following behaviors:
- Huddling together for warmth
- Holding a foot up to their breast
- Puffing out their feathers
Winter is coming, so it’s time to prepare by following our guide! Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs, where you can find all the winter essentials from heat lamps, light bulbs, heated waterers, bedding and more! Chat with our Experts today to ensure your flock thrives this winter.
For more poultry care content, check out our other blog posts!
Livestock Bedding Options
How to Care for Molting Chickens
Hens Health Throughout the Seasons
Why Keep Cows Inside in Winter
Keeping your cattle outside in the Maritimes during winter is viable but requires careful thought and good management. For many producers, indoor wintering is preferable. Many dairy breeds do not do well in the cold as their bodies don’t grow the coat and have the extra pounds like beef breeds. Keeping your cows inside in the winter helps keep them out of the elements and ensures they always have water. It also prevents any falling ice or calves from being born outside. Our blog will guide you with some important practices on why to keep cows inside throughout the winter season.
Slower Winter Growth Rates:
Slower growth rates in winter mean less plant coverage on the soil to protect it. The same cattle hooves that benefited the soil through trampling of pasture in summer now become damaging as they expose bare patches of soil that are vulnerable to erosion. Waterlogged soils quickly turn to mud with cattle roaming above. This makes it very difficult for plant species to grow, and the pasture will take a very long time to recover.
On top of this, there isn’t enough forage to sustain the cattle through the whole winter. During the autumn season, hay is often taken to the cows on the pasture so they can stay outside despite being unable to forage the field. However, moving cows inside in late autumn is a good idea to give the pasture time to recover through the winter and prevent overgrazing.
Overwintering Inside:
Cattle need a constant supply of fresh air to minimize disease, predominantly pneumonia. Stale air increases the spread of the infection and the number of vulnerable animals. The age of the cattle, stage of production, and health and body condition of the cattle all need to be considered and will have challenges coping with severe weather.
Shelter:
Keeping your cows inside during the winter ensures they will be warm and will not require you to provide extra bedding to help dry them out if they get muddy or extra outdoor shelter to protect them from harsh weather conditions.
Feeding:
If you decide to overwinter your cattle, you will likely have to invest in more feed and better quality forage to help provide them with additional energy. Housing them inside will help keep your costs down in the winter.
For more information on keeping cows inside in winter, visit your local Feeds’n Needs and chat with one of our Experts!
Disclaimer: This is general information, it is important to do what works best for you and your cattle.
How to Care for Molting Chickens
As fall days get shorter and temperatures begin to drop, you may start to notice that your chickens are losing feathers and their egg production is slowing down. While this can seem alarming, your chickens are likely experiencing their annual molt, and it is typically nothing to be concerned about.
What is Molting and Why Does it Happen?
Molting is the process of shedding old, worn-out feathers, followed by the regrowth of new, healthy ones. Chickens will experience this natural, healthy process each year, typically in the fall when the days get shorter and temperatures get colder. Molting happens to replace old feathers that no longer do a good job of insulating the chicken and don’t provide protection from things like rain, wind, and snow. New feathers are grown to better protect the chicken from harsh winter weather. When molting starts, chickens will usually begin to lose the feathers around their head and neck, followed by the rest of their body.
While shorter daylight hours and colder weather are typically what triggers molting, there are a few other factors that can cause a molt to happen:
- Stress
- Dehydration
- Malnutrition
- Illness
- Extreme heat
- Broody hens who have recently hatched eggs
How Long Does Molting Last?
The duration of a molt can vary depending on the chicken. On average, molting can last anywhere from a week to several months. The way your chicken molts depends on their genetics and has a direct link to their egg-laying. A faster molt is often referred to as a “hard molt” and a slower molt is referred to as a “soft molt”. Let’s break down what that means:
Hard Molt – Chickens who experience a hard molt could look normal one day, then lose most of their feathers either overnight or over a few days. While these poor chickens may look in rough shape, their molt is typically done in a shorter amount of time than soft molting chickens. Typically, chickens who are excellent layers will experience a hard molt.
Soft Molt – Some chickens slowly experience their molt over weeks to months. This is called a slow molt. The chicken will lose its feathers slowly over time before eventually taking their time to regrow them. Chickens who aren’t consistent layers will typically experience a slow molt.
How Does Molting Affect Egg Production?
Molting requires a large amount of protein, and so does making eggs. This is why you may notice your chicken’s egg production coming to a halt for the duration of their molt, also referred to as the end of the year’s laying cycle.
How Can You Help Your Chickens While They Molt:
Increase Their Protein Intake – Typically, your laying hens feed should consist of 16-17% protein like the Shur-Gain Homestead Layer Ration, however during molting season, it is recommended to switch to a feed that has 18% protein or higher to supplement the extra protein needed to make new feathers. When your chickens start molting, consider changing their feed to Shur-Gain 19% Layer Ration or Shur-Gain 20% Breeder Ration available at your local Feeds’n Needs. If you decide not to switch their feed, you can still supplement protein in your chicken’s diet by feeding them high-protein treats such as dried mealworms or black oil sunflower seeds. Treats like scratch feed and grains can dilute protein and should not be fed while your chickens are molting.
Reduce Stress – Because the process of molting puts extra stress on a chicken’s body, we can help them out by trying our best to not add to that stress. Avoid making any significant changes like adding new flock members or moving your coop until molting season is over. Additionally, watch for any bully chickens that may be picking on other flock members. Consider separating any bullies from the rest of the group for the duration of the molt.
Limit Handling Birds – Molting can be a painful and uncomfortable process for chickens, and their skin becomes very tender and sensitive while they grow new pin feathers. Pin feathers are hard and full of nutrient-rich blood that can be easily broken or damaged. Avoid handling your chickens while they are molting as it can be painful or damaging to new pin feathers. These blood-filled feathers are often a target for bully chickens, so do your best to protect your feathered friends during their vulnerable time.
Being well-informed on the process of molting and being prepared is ultimately the best way to help your birds out as they head into their molting season this fall. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to pick up a bag of high-protein feed and ask one of the Experts to show you some protein-packed treats your chickens will love!
Check out these blog posts for more poultry care tips and how-to’s!
Hens Health Throughout the Seasons
Predator Proofing Your Chicken Coop
How Long Are Farm Fresh Eggs Good For
Tips for Winter Composting
There’s no reason to put composting to the sidelines over the winter. We may begin to think that our compost pile is frozen or stopped working in the winter months. It typically slows down considerably, but the organisms are just waiting to warm up a bit. Compost piles that are activity-managed in the winter will continue to decompose but at a slower pace. Keeping your compost active year-round offers many benefits, including great fuel for your garden in the spring. Here are some tips for winter composting:
Choose The Right Location
You will want to choose a spot easily accessible in the winter and away from direct sunlight or extreme weather. Do not compost near a body of water or the shore of a lake or stream. Compost can contribute unwanted nutrients to the water.
Select Your Composting Container
To help you decide on what size of a container you will need, think about how much organic waste you expect to have. You can create your own by drilling holes in the top of a large plastic storage bin or opt for a store-bought container to hold compost. Rotating bins make turning your mixture easy and help keep pests out.
Know What You Can Compost
The contents of your winter composting collection can be the same throughout the year. This includes kitchen scraps such as fruit peels, rinds or cores. Along with vegetables, including pumpkin shells and onion skins. Coffee grounds and paper filters can also go in the compost. Along with tea leaves and tea bags without any staples or stickers. Eggshells are also a great addition to compost. Composting is the best alternative to managing backyard waste and kitchen food scraps. It reduces the amount of waste you produce and supplies a beneficial soil amendment product.
Materials to Avoid
There are some materials you should avoid adding to your composting. Avoid adding meat, dairy, or oil foods to your compost, as they can attract pests and create unpleasant odors. Woody twigs and branches larger than 1/4 -inch in diameter should be put through a wood chipper before being added to your compost. Avoid wood and leaves from plants such as pine, spruce, juniper and arborvitae. Also, avoid adding plants that have been treated with weed killers.
Add Yard Clippings
Compost should have the right balance of green (nitrogen) and brown (carbon) ingredients. Since most of the scraps from your kitchen will be nitrogen-rich, be sure to add yard waste such as straw, dried leaves and plant debris.
Layering
Start by adding a layer of browns, such as dried leaves or shredded newspaper, to the bottom of your composting container. Next, add a layer of greens, like kitchen scraps and grass clippings. Continue alternating layers of browns and greens; lightly water each layer as you go to keep the compost moist.
Turn and Mix
Turning and mixing your compost helps aerate it, which speeds up the decomposition process. Use a pitchfork or shovel to turn the pile regularly, combining the outer layers into the center. You can also rotate your compost bins to make turning your mixture easy.
Monitor and Adjust
Monitoring moisture is essential when receiving a lot of rain and snow. This can be difficult with traditional compost piles, as the moisture soaks into the ground and is taken on by the compost. That is why it is a good idea to use a sealed compost container so the rain and snow melt is not a problem. Containers can still take on some water, so don’t skimp on adding dry leaves to adsorb any excess moisture. Your compost should feel moist but not wet. If it is too wet, add more dried leaves or cardboard. If it’s too dry, sprinkle it lightly with water. Your compost should be dark, crumbly and earthy-smelling. Stick your hand into the pile to test the temperature; if it’s warm, the composting process is on track.
Your compost will transform into nutrient-rich soil that will help when it’s time to start your garden in the spring. Just scoop out the finished compost and mix it into garden soil or pile it on top as mulch. Leave some compost in your container to help start the next batch!
Halloween Safety Tips for Pet Parents
With Halloween right around the corner, pet parents need to be extra vigilant to ensure their furry friends stay safe and happy during the festivities. From wacky costumes to spooky decorations and the excitement of trick-or-treaters coming and going, it can be easy for your pet to feel overwhelmed or find themselves in trouble. In this blog, we are sharing our expert advice on how you can keep your pets safe this Howl-O-Ween season!
Treats – Keep Them out of Pets Reach
Remember that not all human food is safe for our pets to consume. Chocolate is very toxic to dogs and cats, and if ingested, can cause severe symptoms or death. Additionally, many candies contain xylitol, a natural alternative to sugar, often used in sugar-free sweets and chewing gum. Xylitol is highly toxic to pets, and even a small amount can cause liver failure or prove to be fatal. To prevent our beloved companions from accidentally ingesting these harmful sweets, keep all candies and chocolates out of their reach. Furthermore, make sure you throw your candy wrappers in the trash when finished to prevent curious pets from ingesting them.
Decorations – Are They Pet-Friendly?
While putting up spooky decorations is a fun way to join the Halloween festivities, it’s important to remember that these chilling ghosts and goblins are novel objects to our pets and can be quite scary to them if not introduced properly. Always allow your pets to explore new things at their own pace and reward them with treats for their bravery. In addition to potentially causing anxiety, some decorations can prove to be hazardous to pets as well. Make sure all decorations are put up securely so they can’t be easily torn down or chewed on by pets, and if you have jack-o-lanterns set out, try using LED candles to prevent fire hazards if a pet knocks one over.
Costumes – Should Your Pet Wear One?
What better way to get your pets in on the Halloween fun than to dress them up in a cute costume? If your pet has never worn a costume before, it’s important to approach it slowly and read their body language as you go. Watch for body cues like flattened ears, yawning, tongue flicks, and startled jumps that may indicate your pet is uncomfortable. Having clothing put on can be very anxiety-inducing for a cat or dog, so never force them to wear something if they seem uncomfortable. Let them smell the costume and get familiar with it before putting it on, and start by only having them wear it for short periods leading up to Halloween night. Be sure to reward them with treats and never scold them for being frightened or trying to wiggle away. If you choose to dress your pet up, pick a costume that won’t limit their mobility or cover their eyes, and try to avoid costumes with dangly bits that could be easily chewed off or ingested. If you want to get your pet involved without wearing a costume, there are alternatives like Halloween-themed collars, leashes and bandanas that they may feel more comfortable wearing.
Trick or Treating – Staying Safe in The House or on The Streets
In The House – If you are staying home to hand out candy to trick-or-treaters, keep your pet’s safety in mind when preparing for Halloween night. How will your pet react to all the excitement of doorbells chiming and strangers approaching? Anxious pets may feel more comfortable being away from all the action in a dedicated, safe space where they can relax. Create a den for them in a quiet room with their favorite bed and toys where they will be safe and unable to escape from the house if they get spooked. Alternatively, leave a bowl of treats on your porch for the trick-or-treaters to prevent the doorbell from ringing and disturbing anxious pets.
On The Streets – If you plan to take your pet trick-or-treating with you, take the proper precautions to keep them safe amidst the hustle and bustle of foot traffic and spooky costumes. Ensure they are fitted with a secure collar or harness, and keep them on a tight lead close to your body while you are out. Attach an up-to-date pet ID tag to their collar before you go so that in the event they get lost in the commotion, they can be quickly returned to you when found. Also, consider having them wear reflective gear while out so that they can be easily spotted in the dark. If you have a particularly anxious dog but still want to take them trick-or-treating, it may be best to take them out earlier in the evening before it gets too dark and the streets become packed with the older trick-or-treaters.
Following our advice, you can ensure your pet has a fun and safe Howl-O-Ween season with you. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to pick up supplies like reflective collars and leashes, treats for rewarding bravery and more! While you’re there, why not get a custom pet ID tag made to ensure that you’re ready for the big night! From all of us at Feeds’n Needs, Happy Halloween and stay safe out there!
For more expert advice and fall favorites, check out our other posts!
Top 5 Favourite Pumpkin Products for Fall
How to Pick the Right Harness for Your Dog
Helping Your Dog When You Are Out
Fall Bulb Planting
You might feel like the gardening season is winding down, but an excellent fall task is to plant bulbs so they can thrive from winter chilling and get their roots started before spring warmth helps them emerge. Certain spring flowers are called “dormant perennials.” They need the cool, moist autumn soil to awaken them from their dormancy so they can begin growing roots in preparation for the spring show. You can even plant a few vegetable bulbs in the fall that will thrive in the early summer with this extra growing time. This blog covers what you need to know to start your fall bulb planting!
When to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
The best time to plant fall bulbs is when soils are below 15°C in the late fall or about six weeks before a hard frost is expected. This is usually during September and October (Halloween is a reasonable deadline to set).
How to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
Planting bulbs is generally an easy task, but there are some things that you want to get right. Here are tips to keep in mind:
- Bulbs need at least partial sun throughout the spring. They look beautiful growing beneath trees (before the trees leaf out), amidst wildflowers, and mixed with spring annuals in containers.
- Bulbs need a spot with good drainage, or they may rot. Before planting, work a few inches of compost into the soil for nutrients and drainage, especially if you have heavy clay soil. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
- Plant bulbs with the point facing up! Examine bulbs carefully before placing them in the planting hole, being sure to set them with the roots facing down.
- Consider the bloom time for each bulb (early spring, mid-spring, late spring) and plant bulbs with different bloom times so that you have flowers throughout spring!
- Place shorter bulbs in the front of beds and borders.
- Plant bulbs generously in case some do not sprout (or are devoured by hungry squirrels). Plant them randomly and with varied spacing for a more natural appearance.
Best Bulbs to Plant in the Fall
- Daffodils
- Crocuses
- Snowdrops
- Tulips
- Hyacinths
- Irises
- Alliums (Ornamental Onions)
- Garlic
- Shallot
For more gardening tips, visit your local Feeds’n Needs and chat with one of our Experts!
