How to Care for Potted Mums

As summer fades and autumn rolls in, it’s time to welcome one of the season’s most iconic flowers — the chrysanthemum, or as most of us call them, mums. These vibrant blooms are a staple in fall décor, adding bursts of color to porches, patios, and gardens. Whether you’re a seasoned green thumb or just starting out, caring for potted mums is simple with a few key tips.

Here’s how to keep your mums healthy, happy, and blooming beautifully all season long.

Choosing the Right Pot & Placement

Start with a container that drains well — think terra cotta, ceramic, or even the plastic nursery pot your mum came in. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot.

If you’re repotting, use a high-quality potting mix from Feeds’n Needs that holds moisture but still drains well. Mums love sunlight, so place them where they’ll get at least 6 hours of direct sun daily. Want to extend their bloom time? Try a spot with partial shade to slow down bud opening.

Watering Wisely

Mums like consistent moisture, but soggy soil is a no-go. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and always aim for the base of the plant — not the leaves — to avoid fungal issues. A regular watering schedule will help your mums stay vibrant longer.

Deadheading for More Blooms

To keep your mums looking fresh and encourage new flowers, remove faded blooms as they appear. This redirects the plant’s energy into producing more blossoms instead of seed.

Fertilizing for Fall Success

If you’re growing mums from spring, start feeding them with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10. As buds begin to form, switch to one with higher phosphorus and potassium (like 5-10-5) to boost blooms and root strength.

• Start feeding after the last frost in spring
• Continue until late July
• Feed every 7–14 days
• Water deeply after fertilizing to avoid root burn

If you’re treating your mums as seasonal décor and plan to compost them after fall, you can skip the fertilizer.

Winterizing Your Mums

Want your mums to come back next year? Here’s how to give them a fighting chance:

• Wait until after the first hard frost
• Add 4 inches of mulch (straw or shredded hardwood) around the base
• Leave stems intact — prune in spring, not fall
• In early spring, remove mulch and trim away dead growth

Keep in mind: mums are hardy, but poor drainage or extreme cold can reduce their chances of surviving winter.

Conclusion

Caring for potted mums is a great way to celebrate the season and add a splash of color to your outdoor space. With the right pot, proper watering, and a little TLC, your mums will thrive well into autumn — and maybe even return next year.

Looking for supplies? Visit your local Feeds’n Needs for potting mix, fertilizers, and everything you need to keep your fall garden blooming.

What to do When Your Dog Gets Skunked

It’s a scenario no pet owner wants to face: your dog comes bounding back from the yard, tail wagging… and smelling absolutely awful. Yep, they’ve been skunked.

Skunks are usually peaceful creatures, but when they feel threatened, they don’t hesitate to unleash their powerful defense mechanism — a foul-smelling spray that can linger for days. If your dog has had a run-in with one, here’s what you need to know to handle the situation calmly and effectively.

Ensure Your Dog is Okay

Skunk spray isn’t just smelly — it can cause physical discomfort and, in rare cases, health issues. Here are a few things to check right away:

• Eyes: If your dog was sprayed in the face, their eyes might be red or irritated. Flush them gently with clean water or pet-safe eye drops.
• Mouth: If the spray got into their mouth, rinse thoroughly with water to help remove the taste and odor.
• Wounds or Bites: Look for any signs of injury. If your dog was bitten, especially by a potential skunk with rabis, contact your vet immediately.
• Unusual Symptoms: Watch for signs like lethargy, pale gums, or dark-colored urine. These could indicate a rare reaction affecting red blood cells and should be checked by a vet.

Keep the Stink Outside

As tempting as it is to rush your dog indoors, resist the urge. Skunk odor can quickly spread through your home and cling to furniture, carpets, and clothing. Keep your dog outside while you assess the situation and prepare to clean them up.

How to Remove Skunk Smell from Your Dog

Feeds’n Needs carries products to help remove skunk smell, but you can also whip up a DIY solution that’s surprisingly effective. Here’s a tried-and-true homemade remedy:

Ingredients:

• 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
• ¼ cup baking soda
• 1 teaspoon liquid dish soap

Instructions:

1. Mix the ingredients in a bowl (do not store — it can build pressure).
2. Apply the mixture to your dog’s fur, avoiding the eyes and ears.
3. Let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
4. Follow up with a full bath using pet shampoo and conditioner.

Note: This mixture may lighten dark fur temporarily and can damage fabrics, so use with care.

Alternative Option: Vinegar Rinse

If you don’t have hydrogen peroxide on hand, mix equal parts white vinegar and water. Apply and rinse as above.

If DIY isn’t your thing, Feeds’n Needs carries a range of skunk odor removal products, including:

• Skouts Honor® Skunk Odor Eliminator
• Nature’s Miracle Skunk Odor Remover Spray & Shampoo
• Loona Pet Atomizer
• De-Skunk Odor Destroying Shampoo

Availability may vary by location, so check with your local store.

Special Care for the Face

When treating your dog’s face, be extra cautious. Avoid getting any cleaning solution near their eyes, ears, or nose. Use a damp cloth to gently wipe the affected areas, and rinse with water if needed. If irritation persists, contact your vet.

Prevention Tips: Keep Skunks Away

The best way to deal with skunk spray? Avoid it altogether. Here are some tips to make your yard less inviting to skunks:

• Secure food sources: Store pet food and bird seed in sealed containers.
• Block hiding spots: Close off access to decks, sheds, and wood piles.
• Use deterrents: Motion-activated lights or sprinklers can scare skunks away.
• Discourage denning: Stuff suspected holes with leaves or paper, or sprinkle kitty litter nearby.

Conclusion

Getting skunked is never fun — for you or your dog. But with a little patience, the right cleaning method, and a watchful eye for any health concerns, your pup will be back to their usual self in no time. And next time they go sniffing around the yard, hopefully they’ll think twice before getting too close to a skunk.

UV Safety for Pets

Warm weather means more time outdoors, but while we enjoy the sunshine, it’s important to remember our pets need protection from harmful UV rays too. Sun exposure can be beneficial in small doses—but without proper precautions, pets can suffer sunburns and even face long-term skin issues, including cancer. Luckily, a few simple steps can keep your furry companions safe while they soak up the sun.

Can Pets Get a Sunburn?
Yes, they can—and not just hairless breeds. Any animal can get sunburned, especially in spots where fur is sparse, such as the nose, ears, belly, and around surgical sites. Light-colored or thin-coated pets are more vulnerable.
Even indoor cats who love to nap in sunny windows aren’t fully safe—standard glass doesn’t block all UV rays, so they can still get burned.

What Does a Sunburn Look Like on a Pet?
A sunburn on pets appears much like it does on humans: red, dry, sensitive skin that may crack or peel. Your pet might flinch when touched, lick or scratch at the area, or show signs of discomfort. Severe burns can lead to blisters or even fever, so it’s important not to ignore the warning signs.

Treating a Sunburn
Minor sunburns typically heal on their own, but it’s best to consult your vet if the area is red, painful, or if your pet seems distressed. Treatment often includes cleaning the area, applying a soothing ointment, and possibly trimming fur around the burn to help it heal.

Sun Safety Tips for Pets
To keep your pet safe under the sun:

• Use vet-approved sunscreen on vulnerable areas (never use human sunscreen—it can be toxic to pets).
• Opt for sun-protective pet clothing if your pet tolerates it.
• Plan walks and playtime for early morning or evening when the sun is less intense.
• Seek shade on outings and keep pets cool and hydrated.
• Install UV-blocking window film or shades if your indoor pet loves to bask in sunbeams.

Always check with your veterinarian for recommended sunscreen products and how to apply them safely.

Skin Cancer Risks
Repeated sunburn can increase the risk of skin cancer in pets, particularly squamous cell carcinoma. Regularly check your pet’s skin for any unusual lumps, bumps, red spots, or flaky patches. Early detection makes a significant difference.
If you notice anything concerning, schedule a veterinary exam promptly. Not every change is dangerous, but it’s always better to be safe.

Hot Spots: Another Summer Skin Concern
In warmer months, pets are also more prone to hot spots—raw, inflamed patches caused by constant licking, scratching, or biting. These can be triggered by allergies, insect bites, or matted fur and often become infected quickly.
Treatment involves trimming the hair around the area, cleaning the skin, and applying medications.

Just like us, pets need sun protection. With a little planning and attention, you can help your four-legged friends enjoy the sunny days safely—whether they’re lounging by the window or running around in the yard.

Preventing Heat Stress in Horses

Summer is a beautiful time to enjoy the outdoors with your horse. But as temperatures climb, so does the risk of heat-related illness. Just like humans, horses can suffer from heat stress and, in severe cases, heat stroke. That’s why it’s critical to understand how to recognize the signs and take proactive steps to keep your horse safe and comfortable.

What Is Heat Stress?
Heat stress occurs when a horse’s internal cooling system is no longer able to regulate body temperature effectively. This often happens during high temperatures, high humidity, or intense exercise. If left unmanaged, heat stress can lead to serious complications like dehydration, shock, or even collapse.
The horse’s normal body temperature typically ranges from 37.5–38.5°C (99–101.5°F). Anything above 40.5°C (105°F) is cause for concern and may indicate the onset of heat stroke—a potentially life-threatening emergency.

Warning Signs to Watch For
Knowing the signs of heat stress and heat stroke can make all the difference. Monitor your horse closely during warm weather or periods of exertion.

Common signs of heat stress include:

• Elevated rectal temperature (above 103°F / 39.5°C)
• Rapid breathing and flared nostrils
• Increased heart rate
• Lethargy or reluctance to move
• Excessive sweating or, conversely, no sweating
• Dehydration: tacky gums, sunken eyes, or reduced urination
• Diminished appetite

In severe cases (heat stroke), symptoms may escalate to:

• Rectal temperature exceeding 105°F (40.5°C)
• Staggering, incoordination, or collapse
• Very rapid heart and respiratory rates
• Extended skin tent when testing hydration
• Signs of agitation or distress

If you observe any of these signs, stop all activity, move your horse to a shaded area, and begin cooling them down immediately. If symptoms persist or worsen within 20 minutes, call your veterinarian.

Why Horses Struggle in the Heat
Despite being incredible athletes, horses are not as heat-tolerant as we might think. They generate a lot of heat during exercise due to their large muscle mass and relatively small surface area for heat loss. Sweating is their main cooling mechanism—losing up to 4 gallons per hour in extreme heat.
Unfortunately, high humidity prevents sweat from evaporating effectively, trapping heat and raising the risk of dehydration and electrolyte loss.

Contributing Risk Factors
Some horses are more vulnerable to heat stress than others. Keep an eye on:

• Foals and senior horses – less efficient thermoregulation
• Overweight or unfit horses – fat insulates, making it harder to cool down
• Long travel – confined spaces with poor airflow and limited water access
• Thick coats or heavy blanketing

Prevention Strategies
When it comes to heat stress, prevention is always the best medicine. Try these management strategies to help your horse beat the heat:

Modify Exercise Routines

• Avoid riding during peak heat (typically 12–5 PM)
• Use early mornings or cooler evenings for training
• Watch for early fatigue—even low-intensity work in heat can be harmful

Prioritize Hydration & Electrolytes

• Always provide access to clean, cool water
• In hot weather, horses may drink up to 19 gallons per day
• Use electrolyte supplements to replenish minerals lost through sweat (especially sodium, potassium, and chloride)
• Avoid giving large quantities of plain water alone after heavy sweating, as this can dilute existing electrolytes

Utilize Cooling Tools

• Install fans or mist systems in barns and shelters
• Walk your horse in shaded areas after workouts
• Hose down with cool water
• Use ice packs or cold towels on the neck and chest if temperatures remain high
• Skip cooling sheets during active heat stress—they can trap heat if the horse is still sweating

Consider Clipping

• Thick coats can trap heat—body clipping in the summer can help some horses cool more efficiently

Emergency Response: Cooling Down a Hot Horse
If your horse becomes overheated:

1. Move to shade or a well-ventilated area
2. Hose down with cool water continuously (focus on large muscle groups and neck)
3. Walk gently to promote circulation
4. Use ice on large blood vessels along the neck and shoulders if the temperature is dangerously high
5. Offer small sips of water with electrolytes
6. Monitor rectal temperature—if it doesn’t drop below 103°F (39.5°C) within 15–20 minutes, call your vet

Conclusion

Heat stress is a real concern during the summer months, but it’s also highly preventable. Understanding the warning signs and taking simple, proactive steps can protect your horse’s health and ensure you both enjoy the season safely.

How to Squirrel-Proof Your Bird Feeders

If you’ve ever looked out your window hoping to catch a glimpse of your feathered friends—only to see a squirrel hanging upside down on your bird feeder instead—you’re not alone.

Squirrels may be cute, but they can also be relentless when it comes to raiding bird feeders. The good news? There are plenty of safe, effective, and humane ways to keep them from turning your backyard into their personal buffet.

Here are some strategies to squirrel-proof your bird feeders—and keep your birdseed for the birds!

1. Follow the 5-7-9 Rule

Squirrels can seem like acrobats, but they do have limits. They generally can’t:

• Jump more than 5 feet vertically,
• Leap more than 7 feet horizontally, or
• Drop from more than 9 feet above.

Use this knowledge to your advantage. Place feeders outside of those ranges, ideally in open spaces where squirrels can’t jump from nearby trees or fences.

2. Suspend Feeders with Wire

Don’t have a spot that fits the 5-7-9 rule? Try using a long, sturdy wire to hang your feeder between two distant points. Squirrels struggle to navigate thin, flexible wire—especially if you make sure the feeder hangs at least 5 feet above the ground and 10 feet from the nearest launch point.

3. Invest in a Squirrel Baffle

These dome- or cone-shaped barriers block squirrels from climbing poles or jumping onto feeders. Most are easy to install and won’t harm the squirrels—just frustrate them enough to give up.

4. Pick the Right Seeds

Birds love sunflower seeds, and so do squirrels. If you’re looking for something less squirrel-tempting, try:

• Safflower seeds
• Nyjer (thistle) seeds
• White millet

Mixing these in with your regular seed may make your feeders less appealing to squirrels without deterring birds.

5. Add a Dash of Spice

Capsaicin—the compound that gives chili peppers their heat—is a squirrel deterrent. Birds can’t taste it, but squirrels can. Consider sprinkling a bit of cayenne pepper into your birdseed mix.

6. Try a Spinning Feeder

Squirrels don’t do well with unstable footing. Some feeders are designed to spin or wobble when too much weight is applied, making it nearly impossible for squirrels to stay on board. You can also use a spinning hook to achieve a similar effect.

Always ensure these devices are safe and won’t injure the squirrel—just discourage it.

7. Give Squirrels Their Own Feeders

Giving squirrels their own feeder stocked with peanuts or dried corn may satisfy their appetites enough to keep them away from your bird feeders.

Some backyard birders find that keeping squirrels fed and happy (away from the birds) creates a peaceful balance.

8. Use a Slinky

Yes, a Slinky—as in the toy. Wrap one around your bird feeder pole and let it hang down. When squirrels try to climb up, the Slinky moves and drops them back to the ground in a harmless way.

9. Upgrade to a Caged Feeder

Caged bird feeders are designed with openings small enough to let birds through while keeping squirrels (and larger birds) out. It’s one of the most effective ways to protect your birdseed. Feeds’n Needs has a variety of caged feeders available to choose from.

10. Keep Things Clean

Fallen seed and shells can attract rodents—including squirrels. Use a seed tray under your feeder or clean the ground regularly to reduce mess and discourage furry visitors.

What Not to Do

Please avoid harmful methods such as:

• Glue or adhesives
• Poison
• Petroleum jelly or grease

Squirrel-proofing is about creating a safe, respectful boundary—not harming the wildlife that shares your space.

Conclusion

There’s no one-size-fits-all solution, but with a little patience and creativity, you can create a squirrel-resistant setup that keeps your feeders full—for the birds.

Canada Day Pet Safety Tips

Happy Canada Day! Nothing beats a day filled with travel, food, fireworks, and fun — we look forward to it all year long. But while we celebrate, it’s important to remember that this time of year can also pose risks for our pets.

From loud fireworks to tempting picnic foods, pets can encounter many hazards during the festivities. Here are some essential tips to help keep your four-legged family members safe and healthy this Canada Day:

1. Prepare for Crowds and Gatherings

If your pet isn’t used to crowds, new environments and large get-togethers can be stressful. They might react in unexpected ways or get into mischief. Keep your pet on a leash or safely contained to help avoid accidents or escapes.

2. Be Careful with Food

Barbecues and picnics are a summer highlight, but leftover table scraps, bones, and food wrappers can be dangerous for pets. Sudden diet changes or accidental snacking on garbage can lead to stomach upset, vomiting, diarrhea, or even more serious conditions like bowel obstruction. Keep human food away from curious noses and dispose of garbage securely.

3. Manage Hot Weather Risks

Summer weather, swimming, and bug bites can trigger hot spots, especially in breeds prone to skin issues. Rinse off sand and towel-dry your pet after swimming to help prevent skin irritation. Also, be mindful of pools — pets can accidentally fall in and struggle to get out.

Heat stroke is another serious risk. Pets can only pant and sweat a little through their paw pads, making them very susceptible to overheating. Brachycephalic breeds (with pushed-in faces, like Bulldogs and Boxers) are at even higher risk. Make sure your pet has plenty of water, access to shade or air conditioning, and avoid strenuous activity during the hottest part of the day. Cooling mats or damp towels can help — but remember, an overheated pet needs immediate veterinary care. Never leave your pet unattended in a vehicle.

4. Firework Safety

Fireworks are a big part of Canada Day, but they can be terrifying for pets. Here are some firework safety strategies:

• Walk your dog early in the day to avoid firework displays later. Afternoon fireworks aren’t unheard of, so aim for the morning if you can.
• Bring pets inside well before dusk to keep them safe from loud noises and sudden bursts of light.
• Keep patio doors closed to prevent pets from bolting outside in fear.
• If your dog is normally kenneled, monitor them closely for distress — panicking dogs can injure themselves trying to escape.
• Consider setting up a safe, quiet spot for nervous pets, like a basement or a soundproof room, with a TV or radio on to mask the noise.

5. Stay Aware and Monitor

Even with precautions in place, it’s important to keep an eye on your pet throughout the day. Fireworks, unusual food, and hot weather can all change your pet’s behavior in unexpected ways. Check in with them frequently to make sure they’re comfortable and calm.

6. Enjoy Responsibly

Canada Day should be fun for everyone — humans and pets alike! By taking these simple precautions, you’ll help make the celebrations safe, happy, and stress-free for your furry companions.

From all of us at Feeds’n Needs, we wish you and your entire family — fur family included — a wonderful, safe, and happy Canada Day!

How to Get Started Growing Strawberries

There’s something truly satisfying about harvesting fresh, juicy strawberries from your own garden. Whether you’re a seasoned green thumb or just starting out, strawberries are a rewarding and relatively easy crop to grow—especially with our Maritime climate. Here’s everything you need to know to get started on the path to a bountiful strawberry harvest.

Step 1: Choose the Right Location and Prepare the Soil

Strawberries love the sun and thrive in fertile, well-drained soil. Here’s how to set the stage for success:

• Sunlight: Choose a spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
• Drainage: Avoid areas with heavy clay or soggy soil. Strawberries hate “wet feet,” so good drainage is key.
• Soil Amendment: Enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure to boost nutrients and improve texture.
• Soil pH: Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. You can test your soil using a simple home testing ki available at your local Feeds’n Needs.

Step 2: Plant the Strawberry Crowns

Once your soil is prepped, it’s time to plant:

• When to Plant: Spring is ideal, though fall planting can work in milder regions.
• Planting Depth: Dig holes large enough for the roots. Position the crown (where the roots meet the stems) level with the soil surface.
• Spacing: Space each plant about 20 inches apart. This helps with airflow and reduces disease risk.

Step 3: First-Year Plant Care

Your plants need a little TLC in their first season to set the stage for future harvests:

• Watering: Water thoroughly after planting and regularly throughout the season, especially during dry spells.
• Weeding: Keep the area weed-free so your strawberries don’t have to compete for water and nutrients.
• Blossom Removal: If you’re growing June-bearing varieties, pinch off the flowers during the first year. This encourages stronger root development and better yields next season.
• Fertilizing: Apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer about 4–6 weeks after planting to promote healthy growth.

Step 4: Prepare for Winter

Strawberries are hardy, but they still need protection when the temperatures drop:

• Mulch: Apply a thick layer of straw or similar mulch around the plants in late fall. This insulates the crowns and helps prevent winter damage.
• Snow Cover: In areas like the Maritimes, snow can offer additional insulation—but mulch is still essential to guard against freeze-thaw cycles.

Step 5: Ongoing Strawberry Plant Care

Keep your plants healthy and productive with consistent care:

• Watering: Continue regular watering, especially while fruit is developing.
• Fertilizing: Feed your strawberries in early spring and again after harvesting. Follow the product’s instructions for best results.
• Weed and Pest Control: Stay vigilant for weeds, pests, and diseases. Remove weeds promptly and use organic or chemical treatments as needed.
• Plant Renewal: Strawberry plants tend to decline after 3–4 years. Plan to replace older plants to maintain high yields.

Best Strawberry Varieties for Atlantic Canada

Not all strawberries are created equal, especially when it comes to colder climates. These varieties are known to do well in Nova Scotia:

• ‘Northeaster’ – Cold-hardy and early ripening.
• ‘Sable’ – Excellent flavor and disease resistance.
• ‘Primetime’ – A reliable producer for home gardens.

Growing your own strawberries takes a little planning, but the payoff is sweet—literally. With the right care and a bit of patience, you’ll be enjoying homegrown berries straight from the garden in no time.

Conclusion

Integrating a new pet into your household isn’t always easy, but it’s definitely rewarding. With time, patience, and plenty of positive reinforcement, your furry family members can learn to live together peacefully—and maybe even become best pals.
For more information on introducing a new cat to your home, check out our blog Preparing for Your New Kitten!

Effective Weed Control: Essentials for Your Lawn

Maintaining a pristine lawn in the Maritimes can be challenging, especially when weeds start to invade your green space. However, with the right strategies and products, you can keep your lawn looking its best. Here are some essential tips and products for effective weed control.

Understanding Common Weeds in the Maritimes

The first step in effective weed control is identifying the common weeds that plague lawns in the Maritimes. Some of the most prevalent include dandelions, crabgrass, and clover. Knowing what you’re up against will help you choose the right control methods.

Specific Weeds in the Maritimes

• Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale): A widely recognized weed with yellow flowers and rosette-shaped leaves.
• Chickweed (Stellaria media): A low-growing weed with small, white flowers and fleshy leaves. 
• Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense): A perennial weed with spiny leaves and purple flower heads. 
• Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.): A common grassy weed that grows in lawns and other disturbed areas.
• Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis): A vining weed with trumpet-shaped flowers and heart-shaped leaves. 
• Velvetleaf (Abutilon theophrasti): An annual weed with large, velvety leaves and pale yellow flowers.
• Yellow Rocket (Barbarea vulgaris): A biennial weed with yellow flowers and dissected leaves. 
• Yellow Nut Sedge (Cyperus esculentus): A grassy weed with rhizomes (underground stems) that can be difficult to control. 
• Tansy Ragwort (Senecio jacobaea): A biennial weed with yellow flowers and pinnate leaves. 
• White Cockle (Lychnis alba): A biennial weed with white flowers and lance-shaped leaves.
• Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca): A native perennial weed with pinkish-white flowers and lance-shaped leaves, also important for monarch butterflies.
• Partridge Berry (Mitchella repens): A low-growing ground cover with oval, green leaves and red berries.
• Common Blue Wood-Aster (Symphyotrichum cordifolium): A perennial plant with blue or purple flowers and heart-shaped leaves.

Factors Influencing Weed Growth

• Soil conditions: Weeds thrive in disturbed or nutrient-poor soils. 
• Disturbed areas: Roadsides, pastures, and harvested tree lots are prone to weed invasion.
• Climate: Environmental conditions like temperature and moisture can influence weed distribution and growth. 

Weeds can tell you a lot about your soil because all plant species prefer specific environmental conditions to thrive. Does the soil have too little nitrogen or is it eroded or too compacted? Here is a more detailed review of each type of weed and the specific factors that influence their growth on lawns:

Note: While some plants are commonly considered weeds, some native species, like common milkweed, can also be beneficial to the ecosystem. 

Some ‘weeds’ such as Goldenrod (Solidago species) and Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum) are native species which support pollinating insects and birds and contribute to the ecosystem. Milkweed (Asclepias species), for example, provides a nursery for the offspring of Monarch butterflies. Also, Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota) is also considered a weed but can be beneficial in that it attracts predatory wasps, flies and lady beetles which prey on garden pests such as aphids.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides

Pre-emergent herbicides are a great way to prevent weeds from taking root in your lawn. These products work by inhibiting the germination of weed seeds. Apply them early in the season before weeds start to grow. There are many popular options available, speak with your local Feeds’n Needs experts to find the right solution for your green space.

Remember to always read the label for application specifications.

Post-Emergent Herbicides

For weeds that have already established themselves, post-emergent herbicides are necessary. These products target and kill weeds that are actively growing. There are many popular options available, speak with your local Feeds’n Needs experts to find the right solution for your green space. Remember to always read the label for application specifications.

Organic Weed Control Options

If you prefer an eco-friendlier approach, there are organic weed control options available. These products are safe for pets and children and are effective in managing weeds. There are many popular options available, speak with your local Feeds’n Needs experts to find the right solution for your green space.

Manual Weed Removal

Sometimes, the best solution is good old-fashioned manual removal. Tools like weed pullers and hoes can help you remove weeds by the root, preventing them from growing back.

Lawn Maintenance Practices

Maintaining a healthy lawn is one of the best defenses against weeds. Regular mowing, watering, and fertilizing can keep your grass strong and resilient. Here are some tips:

• Mow Regularly: Keep your grass at a height of 2.5-3 inches (or use the one-third rule) to prevent weed growth. Mowing is a crucial maintenance practice for turf, significantly influencing the type and amount of weeds present. Following the one-third rule (never mow off more than one-third of the plant) is beneficial, but there’s more to consider. As turf grows taller and denser, it shades the soil, preventing weed seeds from germinating due to lack of sunlight. Increased mowing height alone can reduce weed pressure significantly.

During summer, raising mowing heights to three inches or more helps turf grow thicker and reduces weed pressure. Taller turf also promotes deeper root growth, enhancing the turf’s ability to withstand heat, drought, disease, and insect pressure. Additionally, keeping mower blades sharp and returning clippings to the turf (using a mulching mower blade helps with this) contributing up to two pounds of nitrogen per year.

• Water Deeply: Water your lawn deeply but infrequently to encourage deep root growth.
• Fertilize: Use a balanced fertilizer to keep your lawn healthy and vigorous. Remember to always read the label for application specifications.

To get your green space looking it’s best, talk with one of our Feeds’n Needs experts in store. They will help you find the best solution to control and prevent weed growth.

Conclusion

Weed control in the Maritimes requires a combination of prevention, treatment, and maintenance. By using the right products and practices, you can keep your lawn looking lush and weed-free. Visit your local Feeds’n Needs to find all the essentials you need for effective weed control.

Introducing a New Cat to Your Pets

Bringing a new cat into your home is exciting, but it can also come with a bit of uncertainty—especially when other pets are already part of the family. When introducing a new cat, the key to success lies in patience, planning, and understanding pet behavior.

Preparing for a Cat-to-Cat Introduction

Cats are creatures of habit and highly territorial by nature, so adding a new one into the mix can ruffle some whiskers. But don’t worry—it’s completely manageable with the right approach.

Consider Personalities First
Think about the personalities involved. A shy senior cat might not appreciate a rambunctious kitten invading their space, while a cat who has never shared a home before might be extra wary. Adjust your expectations based on how your current cat typically reacts to change or new animals.

Start With Separation
For the first few days, keep your new cat in a separate room equipped with essentials: food, water, a bed, toys, a litter box, and a scratching post. This gives them a safe space to acclimate while letting your resident cat adjust to new smells from a distance.

Build Positive Associations
Feed both cats at the same time, on either side of the closed door. This helps them associate each other’s presence with something positive—mealtime. You can also try placing interactive toys at the door to encourage play through the gap, which can foster a sense of curiosity instead of competition.

Swap Scents and Spaces
Let your cats take turns exploring each other’s rooms without direct contact. This scent-swapping helps normalize the presence of the other cat in their shared environment. Do this for several days before progressing to a visual introduction.

Gradual Visual Introduction
Use a baby gate or cracked door to let the cats see each other without physical access. Monitor their body language closely—relaxed tails and curious sniffing are good signs. Flattened ears, hissing, or growling means it’s time to slow down and give them more time apart.

Face-to-Face Meetings
When you’re ready for the cats to meet without barriers, keep it short and supervised. Some may just sniff and walk away, while others might stare each other down or try to establish dominance. If there’s hissing or swatting, calmly separate them—never try to grab an agitated cat, as you could get scratched or bitten.
Keep interactions brief and positive, using treats and toys to redirect any tension. Over time, and with consistency, most cats can learn to coexist—and in many cases, even enjoy each other’s company.

Introducing a New Cat to a Dog

Cats and dogs can absolutely become best friends—but their first meetings need to be carefully managed, especially if your dog has a strong prey drive or no experience with cats.

Start With Separate Spaces
Just like with another cat, your new feline should have a private area away from the dog. This gives the cat time to adjust to the new home while your dog becomes familiar with the new smells and sounds.

Controlled, Positive Interactions
Place a baby gate in the doorway of the cat’s room. Walk your dog past it on a leash, rewarding calm behavior with treats. Do the same for the cat—treats and praise go a long way in building a sense of trust and safety.

Supervised Face-to-Face Time
When you’re ready for direct interaction, keep your dog on a leash and let the cat approach on their own terms. If the cat hides, let it. Avoid forcing any interaction. Use treats, praise, and gentle reassurance to reward both pets for calm behavior.
Over time, your dog should learn to be gentle and your cat will likely gain confidence. Each animal is different, so go at the pace that works best for them.

Conclusion

Integrating a new pet into your household isn’t always easy, but it’s definitely rewarding. With time, patience, and plenty of positive reinforcement, your furry family members can learn to live together peacefully—and maybe even become best pals.
For more information on introducing a new cat to your home, check out our blog Preparing for Your New Kitten!

New Gardeners – When to Plant According to Frost Dates

For gardeners, the itch to get started as early as possible is real. The sight of a thawing garden bed, the longer daylight hours—it’s all so tempting! But timing is everything. When it comes to planting, especially in colder regions like the Maritimes, patience pays off.

When Is It Safe to Start Planting?

The golden rule is to wait until after the last frost date before doing any major planting. This date variers by region, but for much of Maritimes, it typically falls in the second half of May. In some areas, frost can still be a risk into early June. In fact, many seasoned gardeners play it safe and wait until after the full moon in June.

Starting Seeds Indoors: Where to Begin

If you’re eager to get a jump on the season, starting seeds indoors is a great option. Not all seeds need or want a head start inside, but some absolutely benefit from it. The seed packet is your best friend here—follow its timing suggestions carefully.

New to indoor seed starting? Begin with beginner-friendly plants like sweet peas or marigolds. A simple trick when choosing seeds: give the packet a shake. Larger seeds tend to be easier to germinate, making them a great choice for those just starting out.

What to Start Indoors (And What to Skip)

Not all veggies thrive when started indoors. Some, especially root vegetables, don’t like being transplanted because their roots are easily disturbed. These should go straight into the garden once the soil is ready. Think carrots, radishes, and beets.

Others, particularly heat-loving plants or those with a long growing season, benefit from being started inside. These include:

• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Eggplants
• Broccoli
• Cauliflower
• Brussels sprouts

These plants are either sensitive to cold or need extra time to mature, so giving them a head start indoors is beneficial. For more information on starting seeds indoors, check out Starting Seeds Indoors Using Peat Pellets.

When and How to Transplant

Once your seedlings have outgrown their starter trays or small pots, it’s time to think about transplanting. If it’s still too chilly to plant them outdoors, move them to slightly larger containers and keep them growing indoors.

About a week before planting them in the garden, begin the “hardening off” process—this means gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions. Set them outside for a few hours each day, slowly increasing their exposure to wind, sun, and cooler temperatures. This helps prevent transplant shock and toughens them up for life in the garden.

Conclusion

Gardening is as much about timing as it is about technique. While it can be tough to wait, especially when the spring sun is shining, resisting the urge to plant too early can mean the difference between thriving plants and a garden full of frost damage. So, start indoors when it makes sense, wait for the frost-free dates, and you’ll be rewarded with a strong, healthy garden all season long.