If you’re a gardener who saves seeds or buys in bulk, proper storage is key to keeping them viable for future planting seasons. Seeds are living organisms, and how you store them determines how long they’ll last.
Why Storage Matters:
Humidity and heat are the biggest enemies of seed longevity. Moisture causes seeds to deteriorate quickly, and high temperatures speed up aging. Ideally, seeds should have a moisture content of no more than 10–12% and be stored in a cool, dry environment.
Pro Tip: The sum of temperature (°F) plus relative humidity (%) should never exceed 100. For example, if your storage area is 50°F, humidity should stay below 50%.
Best Practices for Seed Storage
- Keep seeds dry: They should feel brittle before storing.
- Use paper envelopes: Label with seed type and year, then place in an airtight container.
- Store in a cool, dark place: A refrigerator or freezer is ideal. Freezing can extend seed life for 10 years or more—just make sure seeds are thoroughly dried first.
- Avoid warm, humid spots: Never leave seeds in a greenhouse or sunny windowsill, even for a few hours.
How Long do Seeds Last?
Most vegetable seeds remain viable for 2–3 years, but some last much longer. For example, lettuce can sprout after five years, while onion seeds typically last only one year.
Here’s a quick reference guide for average storage life under proper conditions:
Testing Seed Viability
Not sure if your old seeds are still good? Try a simple germination test:
- Moisten a paper towel (damp, not dripping).
- Place 10 seeds in a row and fold the towel over them.
- Seal in a plastic bag, label with date and seed type.
- Keep in a warm spot (around 70°F).
- Check daily for moisture and sprouting.
- After 7–10 days, count how many seeds germinated.
Interpreting Results:
- 70–90% germination: Seeds are usable; sow a little thicker.
- 100% germination: Excellent! Ready to plant.
- Less than 70%: Consider replacing with fresh seed.
(You can plant the sprouted seeds from your test—just cut the towel around each seed and plant it paper and all.)
Prepare Birds for Winter
As winter settles in, the vibrant colors of Blue Jays, Red-Breasted Nuthatches, and Northern Cardinals bring life to an otherwise dull landscape. But with snow covering natural food sources and insects disappearing, birds face a tough challenge finding enough to eat. By providing food, water, and shelter, you can help your feathered friends survive—and even thrive—through the cold months.
Why Feed Birds in Winter?
Winter is one of the most energetically demanding seasons for birds. They need extra calories to maintain body heat, yet natural seeds and insects become scarce. Feeding birds not only helps them endure harsh conditions but also brings beauty and activity to your backyard. Keeping feeders up into spring can even support migrating species on their long journeys north.
Top Tips for Winter Bird Feeding
- Choose the Right Feeders
- Tube Feeders: Perfect for black oil sunflower, mixed seed, safflower, or peanuts. These attract chickadees, nuthatches, goldfinches, and finches.
- Hopper Feeders: Great for safflower, sunflower seeds, or cracked corn. They draw larger birds like cardinals, jays, and red-winged blackbirds.
- Suet Feeders: Suet is a high-energy food loved by woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches.
Avoid placing seed directly on the ground—it attracts deer and other unwanted guests. Instead, opt for mess-free seed blends and consider fencing feeders to keep wildlife out.
- Provide Fresh Water
Water is just as critical as food. When natural sources freeze, birds struggle to stay hydrated. Use a sturdy birdbath in a sunny spot or invest in a heated birdbath to keep water accessible. Refresh water every other day and clean baths with a 9:1 water-to-vinegar solution.
- Keep Feeders Clean
Dirty feeders can spread disease. Clean them every two weeks with a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part bleach, scrub thoroughly, and dry before refilling.
- Offer High-Calorie Foods
Winter birds need quick energy. Stock feeders with:
- Sunflower seeds
- Peanuts
- Suet cakes
- Mealworms
- You can also offer fruits like apples, grapes, cherries, and oranges (asy-to-eat slices)
- Create Shelter
Brush piles and bird boxes provide safe roosting spots during storms. Nest boxes can double as winter shelters.
Extra Tips for Success
- Fill feeders daily, ideally in late afternoon, to give birds an energy boost before nightfall.
- Spread feeders around at different heights for safety and variety.
- Brush snow and ice off feeders after storms.
- Leave seed-bearing plants and leaf litter in your garden for natural food sources.
Helping birds through winter is rewarding—for them and for you. With a little effort, you’ll enjoy a lively backyard full of color and song all season long.
Winter Care for Goats
Ensuring the well-being of your goats is a top priority as winter weather approaches. Cold temperatures and harsh conditions bring unique challenges that can impact your goats’ health and comfort. By covering the basics—shelter, water, and nutrition—you can help your herd thrive all season long.
Shelter: Protection from the Elements
Goats don’t need elaborate housing, but they do require protection from wind, snow, and rain. At a minimum, provide a three-sided shelter that blocks cold north winds while still allowing ventilation. In barns, consider using a door flap to keep wind and snow out while letting goats move freely. To maintain comfort and insulation, keep plenty of clean, dry straw or shavings available for bedding.
Ventilation Matters:
Avoid sealing the barn too tightly. While drafts should be minimized, airflow is essential to prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to pneumonia and other respiratory issues. Proper ventilation reduces humidity and keeps your goats healthy.
Keep It Dry
Moisture is the enemy in winter.
- Location: Avoid low-lying areas where water collects.
- Maintenance: Regularly refresh bedding and keep loafing areas dry to prevent hoof problems like rot or scald, and udder issues such as mastitis.
Do Goats Need Heat?
Surprisingly, goats do not need supplemental heat in most cases. Heat lamps and jackets can interfere with their natural ability to acclimate. As temperatures drop, goats grow a thick winter coat for insulation.
Tip: If snow sits on their coat without melting, their insulation is working!
Typically only newborn kids or a sick goat require extra warmth—use heat lamps with extreme caution due to fire risk and cord chewing.
Water: Fresh and Unfrozen
Goats need constant access to fresh water, even more so in winter when hay replaces moisture-rich pasture. Without water, goats eat less and lose body condition. To prevent freezing, use heated water bowls or change water frequently.
Nutrition: Fuel for Warmth
Winter feeding isn’t just about calories—it’s about heat production.
- Hay is Key: Offer free-choice hay 24/7. Goats are ruminants, and the fermentation process in their rumen generates internal heat.
- Extra Energy: Consider adding alfalfa for protein and energy, but use caution with bucks and wethers to avoid urinary calculi.
- Minerals: Provide salt and mineral supplements year-round.
Helping Goats Adjust
Gradual acclimation is important. Keep goats outdoors as long as possible in fall so they develop thick coats before moving to winter housing. Goats generally handle snow well if they have dry shelter and clear paths to water and feeders. Plowed snow can even serve as a windbreak.
When to Switch from Kitten to Cat Food
As your kitten grows, their nutritional needs change. Knowing when and how to transition to adult cat food is essential for their health and development.
Can Kittens Eat Adult Cat Food?
The answer is on the label! If the food says, “for all life stages,” it’s formulated to meet the needs of both kittens and adult cats. Otherwise, stick with kitten food until it’s time to switch.
When to Switch
- Most Cats: Around 12 months old, when they’ve reached their full adult size.
- Large Breeds (like Maine Coons): Wait until 18 months to 2 years before transitioning.
How to Transition
Switching foods abruptly can cause digestive upset. Instead, make the change gradually over 7 to 10 days:
- Day 1–2: Mix 25% adult food with 75% kitten food.
- Day 3–4: Mix 50% adult food with 50% kitten food.
- Day 5–6: Mix 75% adult food with 25% kitten food.
- Day 7 and onward: Switch completely to the new adult cat food.
A slow transition ensures your cat’s digestive system adjusts comfortably, keeping them happy and healthy during this important change.
Safety Tips for Walking Your Dog at Night
With shorter days, evening walks with your dog can quickly turn into nighttime strolls. While these outings can be peaceful, they also come with added safety concerns. To keep both you and your furry friend safe, it’s important to take a few extra precautions.
Here are 5 safety tips for walking your dog at night:
- Increase Your Visibility
Make sure drivers and other pedestrians can see you. Wear reflective clothing and use reflective leashes or collars for your dog. Adding clip-on LED lights or a light-up collar is a great way to boost visibility. You can find these items at your local Feeds’n Needs.
- Choose Your Route Wisely
Stick to well-lit, familiar paths and avoid dark, isolated areas or busy roads. Never let your dog off-leash in the dark—it’s harder to keep track of them and ensure their safety.
- Stay Alert & Present
Put your phone away and skip the headphones. Staying aware of your surroundings helps you notice approaching cars, wildlife, or potential hazards before they become a problem.
- Keep Your Dog Controlled
Use a sturdy, short leash, especially near traffic. Make sure your dog has reliable recall and up-to-date ID tags or a microchip in case they get loose.
- Plan for the Unexpected
Let someone know your route and expected return time. Carry your phone for emergencies and consider walking with a buddy for added security.
Night walks can be enjoyable and safe with the right precautions. By following these tips, you’ll protect yourself and your pup while still enjoying your evening routine.
Planting Garlic Bulbs
Garlic is one of the easiest and most rewarding crops to grow in your garden. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, planting garlic in the fall sets you up for a flavourful harvest next summer. Here’s everything you need to know to get started.
Choosing Your Garlic Type
Before planting, decide which type of garlic suits your climate and needs:
- Softneck Garlic: Ideal for warmer regions, this variety has a flexible stem perfect for braiding and tends to store longer.
- Hardneck Garlic: Best for colder climates, it produces edible flower stalks called scapes in spring. Removing the scapes helps the plant focus on growing larger bulbs.
When to Plant Garlic
Garlic is typically planted in the fall, from mid-October until the ground freezes. This gives the cloves time to establish roots before winter sets in.
How to Plant Garlic
- Pick the Right Spot
Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. Garlic needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily and doesn’t like soggy conditions. - Prepare the Soil
Loosen the soil and dig holes about 2–6 inches deep. Go deeper in colder climates and shallower in warmer ones. - Separate the Cloves
Break apart the garlic bulb just before planting. Keep the papery skin on each clove intact, even if some flakes off. - Plant the Cloves
Place each clove in the hole with the pointy end facing up and the flat root end down. Space them 4–8 inches apart. - Cover and Water
Fill the holes with soil, gently tamp it down, and add a light layer of mulch. Water thoroughly to help the roots settle in.
Spring Garlic Care
- Fertilize: When green shoots appear in spring, apply a balanced fertilizer.
- Water: Keep the soil moist during dry spells.
- Weed: Remove weeds regularly to prevent competition for nutrients.
Harvesting Garlic
Garlic is ready to harvest in late spring to early summer. Here’s how to know when it’s time:
- Hardneck Garlic: Watch for curly scapes in late spring. Snip them off to encourage bulb growth. Bonus: scapes are delicious sautéed!
- All Varieties: When about half the leaves turn yellow and flop over, it’s harvest time. Use a garden fork to gently lift the bulbs from the soil.
Let the bulbs cure in a dry, shaded spot for a couple of weeks. Once dry, trim the stems or braid softneck varieties for storage.
Storing Garlic
Store garlic in a cool, dark place with good air circulation. Mesh bags, baskets, or hanging braids work well. Properly cured garlic can last 4–6 months. Use any damaged bulbs first, as they won’t store as long.
Ready to grow your own garlic? With just a little effort this fall, you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful harvest next year. Happy planting!
Keep Your Pet Safe with Custom Pet ID Tags
Pets are family and keeping them safe is a top priority. One of the easiest ways to protect them is with a custom ID tag.
At Feeds’n Needs, we offer personalized pet ID tags at all our Maritime locations.
Why ID Tags Matter
Even the best-trained pets can wander. Microchips help, but they need a scanner. An ID tag gives instant access to your contact info, making it easier for someone to help your pet get home fast.
What to Include on Your Pet’s Tag
When customizing your tag, make sure to include:
- Your pet’s name
- Your phone number (primary contact)
- Address
- Any special care instructions (e.g., “Needs medication”)
Key Considerations When Choosing a Tag
- Lightweight for comfort
- Bright colors for visibility
- A great backup to microchips
Visit Feeds’n Needs Today
As your local Animal Experts, we’re here to help every lost pet find their way home. Stop by Feeds’n Needs to get your custom tag; it’s a small step that makes a big difference.
Winterizing Your Lawn
As the days grow shorter and temperatures begin to drop, it’s time to give your lawn a little extra care before winter sets in. Winterizing your lawn helps protect it from harsh conditions and sets the stage for lush, green growth when spring arrives. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you get started:
- Aerate the Lawn
Aeration is one of the most beneficial things you can do for your lawn before winter. By creating small holes in the soil, aeration allows water, oxygen, and nutrients to reach the roots more effectively. This strengthens the root system and improves overall lawn health.
- Mow the Grass Shorter
Before the snow flies, give your lawn a final trim. Mow to a height of about 2–3 inches—short enough to prevent matting under snow, but not so short that the grass becomes stressed. This helps reduce the risk of disease and keeps your lawn tidy through the colder months.
- Fertilize with a Winterizer
Applying a winter fertilizer gives your lawn the nutrients it needs to survive the cold and thrive in the spring. Look for a blend high in nitrogen and potassium, which promotes strong root growth and helps store energy for next season. Available at your local Feeds’n Needs. A well-fed lawn now means a greener lawn later!
- Mulch the Leaves
Instead of raking and bagging fallen leaves, mulch them directly into the lawn using your mower. This adds valuable organic matter, helps retain soil moisture, and provides insulation for the roots. It’s a simple way to recycle nutrients and improve soil health.
- Seed Bare Spots
Fall is a great time to overseed any thin or bare patches in your lawn. The cooler temperatures and increased moisture create ideal conditions for seed germination. By spring, you’ll enjoy a thicker, more resilient lawn.
Conclusion
Winterizing your lawn doesn’t take long, but the benefits last well into the next growing season. With a little effort now, you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant, healthy lawn when the snow melts and the sun returns.
Digging Up and Storing Bulbs for Winter
As the growing season winds down and frost begins to settle in, it’s time to think about lifting and storing your tender bulbs to protect them through the winter. Proper care can ensure vibrant blooms next year!
- Know When to Dig
Timing is everything when it comes to digging up bulbs.
- Wait for dieback: Let the foliage die back naturally after the first frost. This signals the bulb has stored enough energy for next season.
- Avoid frost damage: Digging too soon can harm the bulb, while waiting too long may expose it to freezing temperatures underground.
- Dig Up and Clean the Bulbs
- Use the right tool: A garden fork is ideal to gently lift bulbs without damaging them.
- Lift carefully: Dig around and under the bulb to avoid cutting roots or bruising the bulb.
- Clean gently: Shake or brush off excess soil—no need to wash them.
- Dry the Bulbs
- Air-dry: Place bulbs in a well-ventilated, dry area for about a week.
- Trim foliage: Once dry, remove any remaining leaves or stems.
- Prepare for Storage
- Choose ventilated containers: Cardboard boxes, mesh bags, or crates work well.
- Add insulation: Layer bulbs with peat moss, sawdust, or vermiculite to prevent them from touching and to retain just enough moisture.
- Label everything: Include bulb type and color for easy spring planting.
- Store the Bulbs
- Find the right spot: Store bulbs in a cool 7–13°C, dark, and dry location that won’t freeze.
- Ideal places: Unheated garages, basements, or root cellars are perfect.
- Monitor regularly: Check for signs of rot or mold and remove affected bulbs.
Spring & Summer Bulb Tips
Spring Bulbs (e.g., Daffodils, Crocus)
- Dormancy begins: Once foliage turns brown and papery in late spring or early summer, bulbs are dormant and ready to be lifted if needed.
- Divide every 5 years: Overcrowding leads to smaller blooms and uneven growth. Dig, divide, and replant to refresh your beds.
Summer Bulbs (e.g., Dahlias, Begonias)
- Lift after frost: Wait until frost blackens the foliage, then gently dig up the bulbs.
- Dry before storing: Allow leaves to dry naturally before trimming. Dust bulbs with fungicide to prevent rot.
- Store smart: Use paper bags or nylon stockings with dry peat moss. Keep in a frost-free, well-ventilated area between 16–18°C.
Conclusion
While many bulbs can stay in the ground for years, lifting and storing tender varieties ensures they survive harsh winters and thrive come spring. With a little care and attention, your garden will reward you with a stunning display year after year.
Fall Garden Prep
As the days grow shorter and the air turns crisp, it’s the perfect time to give your garden a little TLC before winter sets in. Prepping your garden in the fall not only keeps things tidy but also sets the stage for a healthy, vibrant growing season next year. Here’s how to wrap up the season with care:
Clean Up and Sanitize Your Garden
A tidy garden is a healthy garden. Start by removing any spent annuals and vegetable plants that have finished producing. This helps prevent pests and diseases from lingering through the winter.
- Toss diseased plants in the trash—not the compost pile—to avoid spreading pathogens.
- Leave healthy roots from nitrogen-fixing plants like beans and peas in the soil. They’ll break down naturally and enrich your garden.
- Weed thoroughly, especially those that have gone to seed, to reduce next spring’s weed load.
Enrich Your Soil
Fall is a great time to give your soil a boost so it’s ready to support new growth come spring.
- Test your soil every few years to check pH and nutrient levels. Fall is ideal for applying amendments like lime, which need time to take effect.
- Add compost—a 2–3 inch layer will feed your soil over the winter as it breaks down.
- Mulch generously with shredded leaves, straw, or wood chips to protect the soil and retain moisture.
Care for Perennials and Bulbs
Your perennials and bulbs need a little attention before the frost hits.
- Divide and transplant overcrowded perennials to give them room to thrive.
- Water deeply before the ground freezes to help roots stay hydrated through winter.
- Plant spring-blooming bulbs like tulips and daffodils now for a colorful show next year.
- Dig up tender bulbs such as dahlias and gladiolus and store them indoors.
Prep Your Tools and Equipment
Don’t forget to take care of your gardening gear!
- Clean and sharpen tools to keep them in good shape and ready for spring.
- Drain hoses and irrigation systems to prevent freezing and cracking.
- Store pots and containers in a dry place to avoid damage from freeze-thaw cycles.
Fall Planting and Final Harvest
There’s still time to enjoy a few more crops before winter.
- Plant garlic between September and the end of November.
- Harvest remaining produce before the first hard frost. Green tomatoes? Let them ripen on a sunny windowsill indoors.
With a little effort now, your garden will be healthier, your tools will last longer, and you’ll be one step ahead when spring rolls around. Happy fall gardening!
