Frozen buckets, ice-covered troughs and blocked poultry waterers can quickly turn a winter morning into extra work. For the animals depending on those water sources, they can also mean going without an essential part of their daily care.

Whether you keep horses, livestock or a small backyard flock, reliable access to clean, unfrozen drinking water belongs at the centre of your winter care routine. Across Atlantic Canada, changing temperatures and winter storms make it especially valuable to prepare before the first hard freeze.

A dependable winter water plan combines suitable equipment, safe electrical connections, regular cleaning and hands-on checks. Here’s how to get started.

Why Winter Water Access Matters

Cold weather does not eliminate an animal’s need for water. Chickens need fresh water even when their activity slows, and a frozen waterer leaves them without a usable supply. Check that every bird can reach the water, including smaller or less dominant flock members.

For horses, winter often means eating more dry forage while drinking less as temperatures fall. Reduced water intake alongside increased forage consumption can raise the risk of impaction colic. Keeping water accessible deserves the same attention as providing hay and shelter.

The goal is to provide water animals can comfortably reach and drink whenever they need it.

Choose Heated Buckets and Waterers for the Job

Heated buckets, poultry waterers and tank de-icers can help maintain drinking water through freezing weather. Choose equipment designed for your animals, container and location.

Consider these points before purchasing:

• Capacity: Will the container supply enough water between refills?
• Animal access: Can animals drink comfortably without crowding or tipping it?
• Container compatibility: Is the heater specifically approved for that plastic or metal container?
• Installation requirements: Does the product require a particular surface, mounting method or clearance?
• Power supply: Is a suitable electrical outlet available where the equipment will operate?

A heated poultry base is not automatically compatible with every waterer. An unsuitable combination may damage the container or create a fire hazard around bedding. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the complete setup.

Heating equipment supports your routine; daily water checks remain essential. A working light or plugged-in cord does not confirm that animals have drinkable water.

Make Electrical Safety Part of Your Winter Barn Plan

Water, bedding, dust and curious animals make careful electrical planning essential around barns and coops.

Use a properly installed ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protected outlet, and have a qualified electrician assess permanent power needs. Outdoor extension cords should not become a season-long substitute for suitable wiring and outlets.

Before operating heated water equipment:

• Inspect cords, plugs and housings for damage.
• Follow the manufacturer’s directions on outlet requirements and whether an extension cord is permitted.
• Protect cords from chewing, pecking, trampling and equipment traffic.
• Keep electrical connections protected from moisture.
• Maintain the required clearance from hay, shavings and other combustible materials.
• Disconnect power as instructed before cleaning, servicing or moving equipment.

If a temporary extension cord is permitted, use one rated for outdoor conditions and the equipment’s electrical load. Do not connect multiple extension cords together, run them through doors where they can be pinched, or leave them lying in water or snow.

If equipment trips a GFCI repeatedly, develops visible damage or behaves unusually, stop using it and have the problem assessed. Never bypass a protective device to keep a heater running.

Use Insulated Containers to Slow Freezing

Insulated buckets and waterers can help slow heat loss. Sheltering a container from wind and choosing a suitable location can also help water stay unfrozen longer. Larger volumes generally take longer to freeze than smaller ones, although the drinking surface can still ice over.

Insulation slows freezing; it does not guarantee ice-free water.

For barns and backyard coops without electricity, plan for frequent water replacement during freezing conditions. Keeping a second container ready allows you to swap out a frozen waterer while the first thaws in a suitable location.

Choose containers that are easy to carry, clean and refill. Any insulation should remain protected from animals and should not interfere with cleaning or safe drinking access. Never cover heated equipment or add insulation unless its manufacturer permits it.

Avoid adding salt or antifreeze to drinking water to prevent freezing. Use equipment and management practices designed for animal watering instead.

Check Water Every Day and More Often During Cold Snaps

Build water checks into morning and evening chores, then add visits whenever conditions require them. In severe cold, an unheated container may freeze well before the next scheduled check. Poultry keepers should check more frequently during colder weather and replace frozen water promptly.

At each visit, check more than the water level:

1. Confirm that water is accessible. Look for surface ice, frozen drinking channels and blocked nipples or valves.
2. Check cleanliness. Remove manure, bedding, feed and other contamination.
3. Watch animals drink. Make sure the setup works for every animal using it.
4. Look for leaks and spills. Address wet bedding and icy footing.
5. Inspect heating equipment. Look for damage or unusual operation without reaching into potentially faulty electrical equipment.
6. Refill and record concerns. Unexpected changes in consumption deserve attention.

A full container can still leave animals thirsty if its drinking point is frozen. Hands-on checks help catch problems that a quick glance can miss.

Why Snow Is Not an Adequate Replacement for Drinking Water

For backyard chickens and horses, do not rely on snow to replace a dependable supply of liquid water.

Snow contains air, so animals must consume a much larger volume to obtain the same amount of water. Horses also use energy melting consumed snow—energy needed for maintaining warmth and body condition. Snow quality and availability can change as it becomes crusted, compacted or contaminated.

There is an important livestock distinction: certain carefully managed beef cattle and dry sheep systems can use suitable snow as a water source. That approach depends on animal condition, production stage, snow quality and close management. It is not a general watering recommendation for a mixed barn or backyard flock. Lactating cows and ewes have greater water needs and should have access to fresh water.

For everyday barn and coop planning, build your routine around clean, accessible liquid water throughout winter.

Prepare a Backup Plan for Winter Storms

Before a storm arrives, work through what you would do if a heater failed, a supply line froze or the power went out.

Keep spare buckets or poultry waterers available, identify a usable backup water source and arrange help if you cannot reach the property. Store enough clean water for your animals’ expected needs and the likely interruption, remembering that a well pump may also stop during a power outage.

Write down the routine for anyone covering chores. Include which containers serve each animal group, how equipment operates and who to contact if something fails.

Get Your Barn and Backyard Flock Ready for Winter

The best winter watering setup is one you can maintain consistently. Suitable heated buckets, compatible waterers, insulated containers and a reliable checking routine can make cold-weather chores more manageable while keeping drinking water available.

Visit your local Feeds’n Needs to discuss winter watering supplies for your barn or backyard flock. Ask about available heated buckets, poultry watering equipment and containers suited to your animals and daily routine—and prepare your backup plan before freezing weather arrives.

 

 

 

 

 

From snowy backyard playtime to slushy neighbourhood walks, winter brings plenty of opportunities to get outside with your dog. It also brings surfaces that can be tough on their feet. Snow, sharp ice and salted sidewalks can turn a familiar route into an uncomfortable outing.

For dog owners in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland and Labrador, a practical winter routine starts at the door: protect paws before heading out, watch for discomfort along the way, and clean and dry them when you return.

Here’s how to make cold-weather paw care part of everyday life—and where paw balm, dog boots, towels and grooming supplies fit in.

Why Winter Paw Care Matters

A dog’s paw pads handle a lot, but they are still vulnerable to irritation and injury. Winter hazards include:

• Packed snow: Snow can collect in the fur between toes and form uncomfortable clumps.
• Ice: Rough, frozen surfaces can make walking difficult and may injure paws.
• Road salt and ice melt: These products can irritate feet and may cause illness if swallowed during licking.
• Cold and moisture: Extended exposure, especially when paws are wet, increases the risk of cold injury.

A dog who suddenly lifts a foot, slows down or refuses to continue may be telling you their paws hurt. Stop and check instead of encouraging them to push through.

Protect Dog Paws from Snow and Ice

Check the walking surface before choosing your route. A short loop on cleared ground may be a better option than a longer outing over crusted snow or icy sidewalks.

During walks, look for snow collecting between the toes. Gently remove loose clumps. If ice is stuck to the fur, head indoors and use lukewarm water to help loosen it rather than pulling.

Keep outings shorter in harsh conditions, and take breaks indoors to warm up and dry off. Boots and balm can support your routine, but they do not make prolonged exposure to extreme cold safe.

Road Salt: Clean Paws Before Your Dog Licks Them

Salted sidewalks, parking lots and roadside slush deserve extra attention. Even a quick bathroom break can leave residue on your dog’s feet.

Choose less heavily treated routes where possible, discourage eating snow near salted areas, and rinse exposed paws when you get home. Clean affected lower legs and belly fur, too.

If you use ice melt at home, follow its directions and keep the product away from pets. A “pet-safe” label does not mean a product is safe to eat or that you can skip cleaning paws after contact.

Contact your veterinarian promptly if you suspect your dog has swallowed ice melt.

How to Choose Paw Balm for Dogs

A dog-specific paw balm or wax can help support pad care. Depending on its formulation, it may moisturize dry pads or provide a protective layer before walks.

Choose a product intended for dogs and follow the label for application and reapplication. Ask your veterinarian for advice if your dog has sensitive skin, persistently dry pads or an existing paw condition.

Apply to clean, dry paws as directed. Avoid substituting human lotions or medicated creams without veterinary guidance.

Paw balm belongs alongside cleaning and inspection in your winter routine. It does not remove road salt, replace boots on difficult surfaces or treat a serious injury.

Do Dogs Need Boots in Winter?

Winter dog boots can be useful for dogs who regularly cross treated sidewalks, struggle with snow collecting between their toes or show discomfort on cold ground.

When choosing boots, consider:

• Fit: Measure according to the manufacturer’s instructions; front and back paws may need different sizes.
• Grip: Look for soles suited to winter walking.
• Coverage: Choose a design appropriate for the snow and slush your dog encounters.
• Fastening: Boots should stay secure without restricting movement or rubbing.

Introduce boots indoors with treats and short practice sessions. Let your dog build confidence before trying a longer walk.

Check the fit during use. Afterward, remove the boots, inspect the paws and allow both paws and boots to dry. Boots can help limit exposure, but your dog still needs supervision on slippery ground.

A Simple Post-Walk Paw-Cleaning Routine

Keep a small cleanup station near your entrance with a basin, soft cloth and absorbent towel.

1. Check each paw. Look at the pads, between the toes and around the nails for trapped debris or irritation.
2. Rinse when needed. Use lukewarm water to remove salt, slush and dirt. A quick dry wipe may leave residue behind.
3. Pat dry thoroughly. Pay attention to the spaces between the toes.
4. Check again. Once paws are clean, redness and small cracks may be easier to spot.
5. Use balm as directed. Apply only if appropriate for your dog and the product’s instructions.

Dog grooming wipes can be convenient for light dirt, but rinsing is a better choice after contact with road salt. Keep a spare towel in the vehicle for outings away from home.

Grooming Supplies That Support Winter Paw Care

Regular grooming makes it easier to spot changes in your dog’s feet and manage fur that collects snow.

A useful winter kit includes:

• Absorbent towels for paws, legs and damp coats.
• A brush or comb suited to your dog’s coat.
• Dog nail clippers or a grinder for routine maintenance.
• Dog-specific grooming wipes for light cleanup.
• A gentle dog shampoo for occasions when a fuller wash is necessary.

Ask a groomer to tidy excess fur around the paws if snow repeatedly collects there. Avoid cutting close to the skin or between the pads if you are unsure how to do it safely.

Keep nails maintained and avoid unnecessary full baths. Frequent shampooing can contribute to dry skin; ask your veterinarian about an appropriate shampoo if dryness is a concern.

Cracked Paw Pads: When to Call Your Veterinarian

Do not assume every cracked pad is simply a winter problem. Irritation, injuries and other conditions can look similar.

Contact your veterinarian for cracks that are painful, bleeding, deep or persistent, or if your dog has swelling, discharge, ongoing licking or a limp. Avoid putting balm over a wound unless your veterinarian recommends it.

Pale, grey or blue skin, blisters, marked swelling or severe pain after cold exposure may indicate frostbite. Move your dog into a warm, dry area and seek veterinary care immediately. Do not rub the affected area or apply direct heat from a heating pad or hair dryer.

Get Winter-Ready with Feeds’n Needs

A few supplies by the door can make winter walks easier to manage: paw balm for appropriate pad care, well-fitting boots for added coverage, towels for drying and grooming tools for regular maintenance.

Visit your local Feeds’n Needs to explore paw-care and grooming options and ask about current product availability. Whether your dog loves snowy trails or prefers a quick neighbourhood loop, a consistent routine helps you care for the paws that carry them through every adventure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I wash my dog’s paws after every winter walk?

Check them after every outing. Rinse after contact with salt, ice melt or dirty slush, then dry thoroughly between the toes.

Can paw balm replace dog boots?

Balm and boots serve different purposes. Balm may support pad moisture or provide a protective layer, depending on the product. Boots provide physical coverage. Neither replaces post-walk cleaning.

Why does my dog lift their paws in the snow?

Cold, packed snow or irritation may be causing discomfort. Stop, inspect the paws and head indoors if your dog is uncomfortable. Persistent pain or limping needs veterinary attention.

Can I put human moisturizer on my dog’s cracked paws?

Use a dog-specific product and seek veterinary advice for damaged pads. Human lotions may contain ingredients unsuitable for dogs, especially if licked.

 

Rabbits and guinea pigs may be small, but their digestive and dental needs require careful daily attention. At the centre of a healthy diet for both species is one simple essential: unlimited access to quality hay.

Hay is more than bedding or an occasional snack. It provides the fibre needed to support normal digestion, encourages natural foraging behaviour and promotes the chewing action required to wear down continuously growing teeth. Pellets, fresh greens and safe chew products can complement the diet, but they should never replace good-quality hay.

Understanding the nutritional needs of rabbits and guinea pigs can help owners choose the right hay, feeders, pellets and enrichment products to support long-term health.

Why Hay Is Essential for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs

Rabbits and guinea pigs are herbivores with digestive systems designed to process fibrous plant material throughout the day. They naturally eat many small meals rather than one or two large servings.

Grass hay provides long-strand fibre that helps keep food moving normally through the gastrointestinal tract. When fibre intake falls, digestive movement may slow, increasing the risk of serious health problems.

Consistent access to hay helps support:

• Healthy digestion
• Normal gastrointestinal movement
• Balanced gut bacteria
• Regular stool production
• Natural grazing and foraging behaviour
• Healthy body condition
• Appropriate dental wear
• Mental stimulation and enrichment

Hay should be fresh and available at all times, including overnight.

Hay Supports Healthy Digestion

The digestive systems of rabbits and guinea pigs rely on fibre. Their gastrointestinal tracts contain beneficial microorganisms that help break down fibrous foods and make nutrients available.

A hay-first diet encourages normal digestive movement and supports this delicate microbial population. Diets that contain too little fibre or too many concentrated, sugary or starchy foods may disrupt the digestive system.

Pellets alone cannot provide the same physical fibre length, chewing time or foraging experience as hay. Even a nutritionally complete pellet should be offered as a measured addition to the diet—not as a replacement for unlimited grass hay.

Changes in appetite, stool size or stool frequency should always be taken seriously. A rabbit or guinea pig that stops eating, produces fewer droppings or appears uncomfortable requires prompt veterinary attention.

Hay Helps Wear Down Continuously Growing Teeth

Rabbit and guinea pig teeth grow continuously. They need regular wear to remain at a functional length and alignment.

Hay promotes extended chewing with a natural side-to-side grinding motion. It is this repeated chewing action—not simply eating something hard—that supports dental wear.

When an animal does not eat enough hay, the teeth may not wear evenly. Dental problems can become painful and may interfere with eating, grooming and normal behaviour.

Possible signs of dental trouble include:

• Drooling or a wet chin
• Difficulty picking up food
• Dropping food while chewing
• Choosing soft foods but avoiding hay
• Reduced appetite
• Weight loss
• Smaller or fewer droppings
• Swelling around the jaw or face
• Watery eyes
• Reduced grooming

Dental disease cannot be corrected with chew toys alone. Any suspected dental problem should be assessed by a veterinarian experienced with rabbits and guinea pigs.

Choosing the Best Hay

Healthy adult rabbits and guinea pigs generally need a grass-based hay as the foundation of their diet.

Popular options include:

Timothy Hay

Timothy hay is a widely used grass hay with a balance of fibre, leaves and stems. Its texture encourages chewing and foraging, making it a suitable everyday choice for many adult rabbits and guinea pigs.

Orchard Grass

Orchard grass is often softer and may appeal to pets that are selective about coarser hay. It can be fed on its own or mixed with another grass hay to provide variety.

Meadow Hay

Meadow hay may contain a mixture of grasses and textures. A varied blend can encourage natural foraging, but quality and nutritional content may differ between batches.

Oat Hay

Oat hay provides a different texture and flavour. It may be included as part of a varied grass-hay diet, provided it is clean, dry and appropriate for the individual animal.

Alfalfa Hay

Alfalfa is a legume hay rather than a grass hay. It is richer in protein, energy and calcium, so it is generally not the first choice as unlimited hay for a healthy adult rabbit or guinea pig.

Alfalfa may be recommended for growing young animals, pregnant or nursing animals, underweight pets or animals with particular nutritional requirements. Ask your veterinarian when and how it should be included.

How to Recognize Quality Hay

Good hay should encourage your pet to eat and forage throughout the day.

Look for hay that is:

• Fresh and pleasantly grassy smelling
• Dry and free from dampness
• Low in dust
• Free from visible mould
• Free from insects, droppings and foreign objects
• Green to greenish-brown rather than heavily bleached
• Made up of leaves and stems with varied textures

Never feed hay that smells musty, feels wet or shows signs of mould. Mouldy or dusty hay may contribute to respiratory and digestive problems.

Hay should be stored in a cool, dry and well-ventilated area. Avoid airtight storage if it could trap moisture. Keep hay off damp floors and inspect it regularly.

How Much Hay Do Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Need?

Hay should be available in unlimited quantities every day. A useful practical guide is to expect each pet to eat a loose pile of hay approximately equal to its body size daily, although individual intake varies.

The goal is not to restrict hay to a particular serving. Refill it often enough that the animal never runs out.

Offer fresh handfuls throughout the day and remove hay that has become wet, heavily soiled or contaminated. Some hay will be pulled from the feeder and left uneaten; providing a generous supply allows natural selection and foraging.

Choosing the Right Hay Feeder

A well-designed hay feeder helps keep hay clean, dry and accessible. It may also reduce waste and encourage foraging.

Options include:

• Hay racks
• Hay bags designed for small pets
• Free-standing feeders
• Hay mangers
• Litter-box hay stations
• Cardboard enrichment feeders

Choose a feeder that:

• Allows easy access without trapping the head or limbs
• Holds enough hay for extended feeding
• Does not have sharp edges
• Can be cleaned regularly
• Keeps hay away from water and heavily soiled areas
• Is positioned at a comfortable eating height

Many rabbits and guinea pigs like to eat hay while using their litter or bathroom area. Positioning a safe hay feeder beside or above one end of the litter box can encourage hay consumption while keeping most of the supply cleaner.

A feeder should never be allowed to run empty. Some loose hay can also be added to safe foraging areas to encourage exploration.

Pellets Should Complement Hay

Pellets can provide concentrated nutrients, but feeding too many may reduce hay intake and contribute to excess weight. Follow the feeding directions for the specific product and adjust portions with guidance from your veterinarian.

Look for pellets that are:

• Formulated specifically for rabbits or guinea pigs
• Appropriate for the animal’s age and life stage
• High in fibre
• Uniform in shape
• Free from colourful pieces, seeds and sugary additions
• Stored properly and used before their best-before date

Muesli-style mixes can encourage selective feeding. Pets may pick out the sweeter or starchier pieces while leaving the higher-fibre components behind, creating an unbalanced diet.

Rabbit and guinea pig pellets are not interchangeable. Each species has different nutritional requirements.

Guinea Pigs Require Dietary Vitamin C

Unlike rabbits, guinea pigs cannot produce their own vitamin C. They require a reliable daily dietary source.

A guinea pig pellet should be formulated specifically for guinea pigs and contain stabilized vitamin C. Because vitamin C can break down with age, light, heat and air exposure, pellets should be stored correctly and used while fresh.

Vitamin C can also come from appropriate fresh foods selected with veterinary guidance. Adding vitamin C to drinking water is often unreliable because it can degrade and may change the water’s taste, potentially discouraging drinking.

Vitamin C deficiency in guinea pigs may contribute to weakness, reduced appetite, swollen or painful joints, poor healing and dental or gum problems.

Speak with your veterinarian about appropriate vitamin C intake, particularly for growing, pregnant, nursing, ill or recovering guinea pigs.

Fresh Foods and Treats

Fresh leafy greens can add moisture, variety and nutrients to the diet. Introduce new foods gradually to avoid digestive upset.

Appropriate choices and portions depend on the species, age, health and current diet. Wash produce thoroughly and remove uneaten fresh food before it spoils.

Fruit and sweet vegetables should be limited because of their sugar content. Commercial treats containing seeds, nuts, dairy ingredients, honey or added sugar are not appropriate everyday replacements for hay or balanced pellets.

Hay should remain the constant foundation, regardless of what fresh foods are offered.

Safe Chew Products and Enrichment

Chewing is a natural behaviour for rabbits and guinea pigs. Safe chew products provide enrichment and may help protect furniture, enclosures and household items.

Suitable options may include:

• Untreated willow toys
• Applewood sticks prepared for small pets
• Woven grass products
• Plain cardboard
• Hay-based toys
• Untreated wood blocks made for rabbits and guinea pigs
• Stuffable foraging toys
• Cardboard tubes filled with hay

Chew products add variety, but they do not replace hay’s role in digestion or dental wear.

Avoid painted, varnished, glued or chemically treated wood unless the product is specifically manufactured and labelled for small pets. Do not collect branches from unknown trees or areas that may have been sprayed with pesticides.

Inspect toys regularly and remove anything that becomes sharp, heavily soiled or damaged.

Water Is Part of Healthy Nutrition

Fresh, clean water must always be available.

Water may be provided in a heavy bowl, a bottle or both. Some pets drink more comfortably from bowls, while bottles may help keep water cleaner in certain enclosures.

Check water systems daily for:

• Leaks
• Blockages
• Algae
• Contamination
• Frozen water in cold housing areas
• Changes in drinking habits

Wash bowls and bottles regularly. Sudden increases or decreases in water consumption should be discussed with a veterinarian.

Helping a Selective Pet Eat More Hay

Some rabbits and guinea pigs prefer pellets and treats because they are more concentrated and easier to eat. Increasing hay interest may require patience.

Try:

• Offering several types of grass hay
• Mixing softer and coarser textures
• Providing fresh hay more frequently
• Placing hay near favourite resting areas
• Creating multiple hay stations
• Adding hay to a clean litter-box area
• Filling cardboard tubes or toys with hay
• Reducing excess pellets under veterinary guidance
• Removing sugary treats from the regular routine

A sudden refusal to eat hay can also indicate dental pain or illness. If a pet that normally eats hay stops, contact a veterinarian promptly.

Watch for Changes in Eating and Digestion

Rabbits and guinea pigs can become seriously ill when they stop eating. Contact a veterinarian promptly if you notice:

• Refusal of hay or other food
• No droppings or a significant decrease in droppings
• Very small, dry or misshapen droppings
• Diarrhea
• A swollen or painful abdomen
• Hunched posture
• Tooth grinding associated with discomfort
• Drooling
• Difficulty chewing
• Sudden lethargy
• Unexplained weight loss

Weekly weight checks can help identify gradual changes before they become obvious. Use a suitable scale and keep a simple record for each pet.

Daily Nutrition Checklist

Support your rabbit or guinea pig with these daily essentials:

1. Provide unlimited fresh grass hay.
2. Refill hay before the feeder becomes empty.
3. Offer a measured portion of species-appropriate pellets.
4. Provide suitable fresh foods.
5. Ensure guinea pigs receive a reliable source of vitamin C.
6. Supply fresh, clean water.
7. Offer safe chew and foraging products.
8. Monitor appetite and droppings.
9. Remove wet or soiled food and hay.
10. Watch for signs of dental or digestive trouble.

Build a Hay-First Feeding Routine

Quality hay is one of the most important investments rabbit and guinea pig owners can make. It supports digestion, promotes natural dental wear and gives small pets a healthy outlet for grazing, chewing and foraging.

Pellets, feeders, fresh foods and chew products all have valuable roles, but the healthiest routine begins with unlimited access to clean, appealing grass hay.

Feeds’n Needs carries hay, hay feeders, species-appropriate pellets, chew products, bedding and other small-pet essentials. Product selection may vary by location, so visit your local store and speak with our knowledgeable team about options for your rabbit or guinea pig.

For personalized feeding recommendations or concerns about appetite, digestion, weight or dental health, consult a veterinarian experienced in small-animal care.

Winter in Atlantic Canada can be demanding for backyard birds. Short daylight hours, frozen ground, deep snow, coastal winds and sudden changes in temperature can make natural food more difficult to find.

While native plants, shrubs and trees remain important sources of natural food and shelter, a well-maintained feeder can provide visiting birds with an additional source of energy during the colder months.

Choosing the best birdseed for winter is not simply about filling a feeder with any available mix. Black oil sunflower seed, peanuts, suet and mixed birdseed each appeal to different species and provide different nutritional benefits.

By matching the food with the right feeder and the birds in your backyard, you can reduce waste, improve feeder activity and support a wider variety of Atlantic Canadian winter birds.

What Do Winter Birds Need?

Birds use significant energy to maintain body temperature during cold weather. They must also continue flying, searching for food and avoiding predators while working with fewer daylight hours.

High-energy foods rich in fat can be especially valuable during winter. However, feeder birds also need reliable access to clean, dry food that suits the size and shape of their bills.

A varied winter feeding station may include:

• Black oil sunflower seed for broad appeal
• Peanuts for larger, energetic visitors
• Suet for insect-eating birds
• A quality mixed seed for greater variety
• Fresh water when safely available
• Multiple feeder styles for different feeding behaviours

No single food attracts every bird. Offering two or more options can help create a more active and diverse backyard feeding area.

Black Oil Sunflower Seed: The Best All-Around Choice

If you plan to offer only one type of winter birdseed, black oil sunflower seed is an excellent place to start.

Black oil sunflower seeds have relatively thin shells that many birds can open. The kernels provide fat and energy, making them well suited to cold-weather feeding.

Common Atlantic Canadian birds attracted to black oil sunflower seed include:

• Black-capped chickadees
• Boreal chickadees
• Blue jays
• Northern cardinals
• American goldfinches
• Pine siskins
• House finches
• Purple finches
• Red-breasted nuthatches
• White-breasted nuthatches
• Downy woodpeckers
• Hairy woodpeckers
• Evening grosbeaks

Not every species will appear in every yard, and some winter visitors vary from year to year. Feeder activity is influenced by habitat, weather, natural food supplies and regional movement.

Best Feeders for Black Oil Sunflower Seed

Black oil sunflower seed works well in:

• Tube feeders
• Hopper feeders
• Platform feeders
• Covered tray feeders
• Squirrel-resistant feeders

Choose a feeder with drainage and enough protection to keep seed as dry as possible. Atlantic Canadian winters often bring a combination of rain, freezing rain, snow and thawing conditions, which can cause exposed seed to become wet or frozen.

Whole Seed or Sunflower Hearts?

Whole black oil sunflower seed is economical and stores well, but the discarded shells can accumulate beneath feeders.

Sunflower hearts or chips eliminate most shell waste and are easier for birds to eat. They can attract many of the same species, but the exposed kernels may spoil more quickly when wet. Offer smaller quantities and check the feeder frequently.

Peanuts: High-Energy Food for Bold Backyard Visitors

Peanuts are rich in fat and protein, making them a popular winter food for several larger birds as well as chickadees and nuthatches.

Birds commonly attracted to peanuts include:

• Blue jays
• Canada jays in suitable habitat
• Black-capped chickadees
• Red-breasted nuthatches
• White-breasted nuthatches
• Downy woodpeckers
• Hairy woodpeckers

Blue jays may carry whole peanuts away and store them for later. Chickadees and nuthatches often visit feeders for peanut pieces that can be eaten quickly or cached nearby.

Whole Peanuts

Whole peanuts in the shell are particularly appealing to blue jays and other larger birds. They can be offered in a sturdy platform feeder or a feeder designed specifically for peanuts.

Whole peanuts may also attract squirrels, crows and other wildlife. A weight-sensitive or squirrel-resistant feeder can help if smaller birds are your priority.

Shelled Peanuts and Peanut Pieces

Shelled peanuts or peanut pieces are easier for smaller birds to manage. Use a wire-mesh peanut feeder or another design that limits the amount removed at one time.

Only offer peanuts that are:

• Plain
• Unsalted
• Unseasoned
• Fresh
• Free from mould

Peanuts can absorb moisture and spoil, so avoid overfilling feeders during wet weather. Discard any peanuts that appear damp, mouldy or rancid.

Suet: Cold-Weather Fuel for Woodpeckers and Insect-Eating Birds

Suet is a concentrated source of fat that is especially useful during cold weather. It can supplement the insects and larvae that many birds search for in tree bark throughout the year.

Winter birds commonly attracted to suet include:

• Downy woodpeckers
• Hairy woodpeckers
• Pileated woodpeckers
• Red-breasted nuthatches
• White-breasted nuthatches
• Black-capped chickadees
• Boreal chickadees
• Brown creepers
• Blue jays

Choosing a Suet Blend

Suet cakes are available in several blends, including varieties containing:

• Peanuts
• Sunflower seed
• Insects or mealworms
• Fruit
• Mixed seed

Peanut and insect blends often appeal to woodpeckers and nuthatches, while fruit blends may attract additional seasonal visitors.

Choose a quality product intended specifically for wild birds. Avoid feeding kitchen grease or heavily processed fats, which may contain salt, seasonings or other unsuitable ingredients.

Best Suet Feeders

A basic wire suet cage works well for many yards. Other options include:

• Tail-prop feeders for larger woodpeckers
• Upside-down suet feeders
• Caged suet feeders that limit access by larger birds
• Combination seed and suet feeders

Mount the feeder near trees or shrubs where birds can approach from cover, but place it carefully so predators cannot hide immediately beside it.

Suet performs best in cool weather. Inspect it during warm spells and replace any product that becomes spoiled, dirty or rancid.

Mixed Birdseed: Variety in One Bag

A quality mixed birdseed can attract several species with different feeding preferences. It may include black oil sunflower seed, white millet, cracked corn, sunflower chips and other grains or seeds.

Depending on the ingredients, mixed seed may attract:

• Black-capped chickadees
• Northern cardinals
• Blue jays
• Dark-eyed juncos
• Mourning doves
• American tree sparrows
• Song sparrows
• Finches
• Other ground-feeding birds

Read the Ingredient List

Not all mixed birdseed provides the same value. Some blends contain a high proportion of inexpensive grains that local birds may leave behind.

When birds scatter unwanted ingredients while searching for preferred seeds, more food ends up on the ground. This creates waste and may attract rodents.

Look for a blend with recognizable, appealing ingredients such as:

• Black oil sunflower seed
• Sunflower chips
• White millet
• Peanut pieces
• Cracked corn in moderate amounts

The best blend depends on the birds using your yard. Pay attention to which ingredients disappear and which remain in the feeder or collect underneath it.

Best Feeders for Mixed Seed

Mixed birdseed can be offered in:

• Hopper feeders
• Platform feeders
• Covered tray feeders
• Ground-feeding stations
• Some tube feeders, depending on seed size

A hopper feeder protects seed better than an open tray during snow or rain. Ground-feeding birds may appreciate seed offered close to ground level, but feeding areas must be kept especially clean to reduce contamination and rodent activity.

Quick Winter Birdseed Comparison

Black Oil Sunflower Seed

Best for: A wide variety of backyard birds
Likely visitors: Chickadees, cardinals, nuthatches, finches, grosbeaks and woodpeckers
Best feeder: Tube, hopper or squirrel-resistant feeder
Main benefit: High-energy seed with broad appeal

Peanuts

Best for: Larger birds and energetic winter visitors
Likely visitors: Blue jays, chickadees, nuthatches and woodpeckers
Best feeder: Mesh peanut feeder, platform or specialty peanut feeder
Main benefit: Concentrated fat and protein

Suet

Best for: Clinging and insect-eating birds
Likely visitors: Woodpeckers, nuthatches, chickadees and brown creepers
Best feeder: Suet cage or tail-prop feeder
Main benefit: Concentrated cold-weather energy

Mixed Birdseed

Best for: Attracting birds with varied preferences
Likely visitors: Juncos, sparrows, doves, cardinals, chickadees and finches
Best feeder: Hopper, platform or covered tray feeder
Main benefit: Multiple food types in one blend

Match the Feeder to the Bird

The food you offer is only half of the equation. Feeder design determines which birds can comfortably access it.

Tube Feeders

Tube feeders are well suited to chickadees, nuthatches and finches. Models with short perches can limit access by some larger birds.

Hopper Feeders

Hopper feeders hold a larger quantity of seed and provide some protection from precipitation. They can attract both small and medium-sized birds.

Platform Feeders

Open platform feeders accommodate cardinals, jays, doves and other birds that prefer a broad landing area. Because the food is more exposed, these feeders require frequent cleaning and careful weather monitoring.

Suet Feeders

Wire cages and tail-prop feeders allow woodpeckers and other clinging birds to feed in a natural position.

Ground-Feeding Areas

Juncos, sparrows and mourning doves often search for fallen seed. Keep the ground beneath feeders clean and avoid allowing damp seed and hulls to accumulate.

Create a Winter Feeding Station

Instead of combining every food in one feeder, consider creating a small feeding station with several options.

A balanced setup might include:

1. Black oil sunflower seed in a tube or hopper feeder.
2. Suet in a cage mounted nearby.
3. Peanuts in a mesh feeder.
4. Mixed seed in a covered feeder for cardinals, juncos and sparrows.

Spacing feeders apart can reduce crowding and give timid species more opportunities to eat.

Trees, shrubs and evergreen cover provide places for birds to perch and shelter from weather. A yard with varied natural habitat is often more attractive than an exposed feeder by itself.

Keep Winter Birdseed Fresh and Dry

Atlantic Canadian weather can quickly turn good birdseed into wet, frozen or mouldy feed.

To protect your seed:

• Store it in a cool, dry location.
• Use a container with a secure lid.
• Keep storage containers away from rodents.
• Avoid buying more than you can use while it is fresh.
• Check feeders after rain, freezing rain and wet snow.
• Break up or discard frozen clumps.
• Never add fresh seed on top of damp or spoiled seed.
• Refill with smaller amounts during stormy weather.

Birdseed should smell fresh. If it appears mouldy, wet or rancid, discard it.

Clean Feeders Regularly

Many birds gathering in one location can increase the risk of disease transmission. Clean feeders regularly and more frequently when conditions are wet or when bird activity is heavy.

Remove old seed and hulls, wash the feeder appropriately and allow it to dry completely before refilling. Clean the ground beneath feeding stations and rotate feeder locations when practical.

If you notice birds that appear unusually lethargic, have swollen or crusted eyes, struggle to eat or remain fluffed up for long periods, temporarily remove the feeders and seek current guidance from a wildlife-health or bird-conservation authority.

Reduce Waste and Rodent Activity

Food left on the ground can attract mice, rats and other unwanted visitors.

Reduce waste by:

• Choosing seed your local birds actually eat
• Using a seed-catching tray
• Avoiding overfilled feeders
• Cleaning beneath feeders
• Storing birdseed in secure containers
• Discarding damp or spoiled food
• Bringing accessible feeders in at night if rodents become a problem
• Using separate feeders for different food types

Hulled seed creates less shell debris, but any uneaten food still needs to be cleaned up.

Don’t Forget Water

Birds need water in winter for drinking and feather maintenance. Natural water can be difficult to access when ponds, puddles and birdbaths freeze.

A heated birdbath designed for outdoor winter use can provide a valuable water source. Follow all product instructions and use safe electrical connections intended for outdoor conditions.

Keep water shallow and clean it regularly. Do not add salt, antifreeze or other chemicals to prevent freezing.

Choose Birdseed Based on the Birds You Want to See

For the widest variety of Atlantic Canadian winter birds, start with black oil sunflower seed. Add suet to attract woodpeckers, chickadees and nuthatches. Offer peanuts for blue jays and other bold visitors, then include a quality mixed seed for ground-feeding birds and species that enjoy smaller grains.

The strongest winter feeding setup combines:

• Quality food
• Appropriate feeders
• Dry storage
• Regular cleaning
• Shelter nearby
• Consistent observation

Feeds’n Needs carries black oil sunflower seed, peanuts, suet, mixed birdseed, feeders and birdseed-storage solutions to help you build a dependable winter feeding station. Product selection may vary by location, so visit your local store and speak with our knowledgeable team about the birds visiting your backyard.

Choose the right seed, keep your feeders clean and enjoy the colour and activity that winter birds bring to Maritime backyards.

As temperatures drop across Atlantic Canada, mice and rats begin looking for reliable sources of food, water and shelter. Grain rooms, hay storage areas, livestock barns, poultry coops, workshops and equipment sheds can provide everything rodents need to settle in for winter.

A small rodent problem can quickly become a much larger one. Rodents contaminate feed, damage insulation, chew electrical wiring and create potential health risks for livestock, pets and people. Preparing before cold weather arrives is one of the most effective ways to protect your barn, feed and equipment.

Here are practical ways to prepare your farm for rodent season this fall.

Why Rodent Activity Increases in Fall

Rodents remain active throughout the year, but fall often brings them closer to barns and other farm buildings. As outdoor food becomes less available and temperatures fall, they begin searching for protected nesting areas near dependable food sources.

Barns are particularly attractive because they commonly contain:

• Livestock and poultry feed
• Spilled grain
• Hay and bedding
• Standing water
• Warm machinery
• Insulation and nesting material
• Quiet, undisturbed storage areas

Mice can enter through very small openings, while rats may squeeze through gaps that appear too narrow for them. Prevention begins by removing access to food and shelter before rodents establish themselves.

Know the Warning Signs

Rodents are often most active at night, so you may notice signs of their presence before seeing a mouse or rat.

Watch for:

• Droppings along walls, shelves or feed containers
• Torn feed bags
• Gnaw marks on wood, plastic, wiring or packaging
• Shredded paper, insulation or fabric
• Greasy rub marks along walls
• Tracks in dust or spilled feed
• Unusual scratching sounds
• Burrows around foundations or outdoor storage areas
• Musky odours
• Livestock feed disappearing faster than expected
• Pets showing unusual interest in a wall, corner or storage area

Regular inspections make it easier to respond while activity is still limited.

Start With the Grain Room

The grain room is one of the most important places to focus your rodent-prevention efforts. Even a small amount of spilled feed can support rodents and encourage them to remain in the building.

Store Feed in Secure Containers

Whenever possible, store grain, pellets, supplements, pet food and birdseed in durable containers with tight-fitting lids. Metal containers are often the most resistant to chewing.

Keep unopened feed bags:

• Off the floor
• On sturdy shelving or pallets
• Away from exterior walls
• Organized by type and date
• Rotated so older feed is used first

Avoid leaving partially opened bags unattended. Fold and secure bags immediately or transfer their contents into sealed containers.

Clean Spills Promptly

Sweep up spilled grain after filling feeders, mixing rations or receiving deliveries. Pay close attention to areas behind bins, beneath shelving and around doors.

Create a regular grain-room cleaning schedule rather than waiting until spills become noticeable. Removing this easy food source makes the area less attractive to rodents and allows fresh droppings or damage to be identified sooner.

Inspect Feed Before Use

Check bags and bins for holes, moisture, mould, droppings or unusual odours. Feed contaminated by rodents should not be given to livestock.

Do not simply scoop away the visibly affected portion. Rodents can contaminate a larger area through urine, droppings and contact with the feed. When in doubt, speak with your veterinarian or feed representative before using it.

Protect Your Hay and Bedding Storage

Hay and bedding provide excellent nesting material and shelter. Stacks can remain warm, dark and undisturbed—especially when stored for several months.

To make hay-storage areas less welcoming:

• Keep the area surrounding the stack clean and open.
• Remove loose hay and broken bales from the floor.
• Avoid creating piles of twine, empty bags or discarded wrap.
• Inspect beneath pallets and around outside edges regularly.
• Maintain space around stacks when the building layout permits.
• Rotate inventory so old bales do not remain untouched.
• Repair holes in walls, doors and foundations.
• Keep nearby grain and supplements in sealed containers.

Rodents may nest within hay without immediately causing visible damage. Look for tunnels, droppings, shredded material and concentrated areas of loose hay.

Hay should also be monitored for moisture and heating. Rodent prevention should never interfere with safe hay-storage practices, ventilation or fire prevention.

Seal Entry Points Around the Barn

Walk around the exterior and interior of each building before winter. Look closely at doors, windows, foundations, vents, utility openings and rooflines.

Potential entry points include:

• Gaps beneath doors
• Damaged door sweeps
• Cracks in foundations
• Openings around pipes or wiring
• Broken siding
• Damaged screens
• Uncovered vents
• Spaces where additions meet older structures
• Gaps around overhead doors

Use durable, rodent-resistant materials suited to the opening. Metal flashing, hardware cloth, concrete or other chew-resistant materials may be more effective than soft fillers used alone.

Do not block required ventilation or drainage. Openings that must remain functional can often be protected with appropriately sized metal screening.

Reduce Hiding Places

Clutter gives rodents protected travel routes and nesting areas. Fall cleanup should extend beyond the grain room.

Remove or reorganize:

• Empty feed bags
• Cardboard boxes
• Old twine and bale wrap
• Unused fabric or insulation
• Broken equipment
• Scrap lumber
• Tall weeds around buildings
• Brush piles near foundations
• Garbage and recycling
• Stacks of unused containers

Store equipment and supplies neatly so floors and walls remain visible. Leaving an open inspection zone around walls can make droppings, gnawing and travel paths easier to detect.

Manage Feed and Water Throughout the Barn

Rodent control becomes difficult when feed is continuously available outside secure storage.

At the end of daily chores:

• Clean spilled feed around troughs and feeders.
• Avoid overfilling feeders.
• Repair leaking water lines and drinkers.
• Remove standing water.
• Clean feed from corners and under equipment.
• Store pet food and treats securely.
• Collect broken eggs and spilled poultry feed.
• Keep garbage in containers with fitted lids.

Outdoor feeding areas should also be inspected. Grain dropped near bins, augers or livestock feeders can attract rodents toward nearby buildings.

Pay Special Attention to Poultry Coops

Poultry areas can be particularly attractive to rodents because feed is often available for long periods. Rodents may contaminate feeders, damage eggs and disturb birds.

Consider:

• Using feeders designed to reduce spilling
• Raising feeders to an appropriate height
• Cleaning beneath feeders regularly
• Storing extra feed in sealed containers
• Collecting eggs frequently
• Removing wet or heavily soiled bedding
• Sealing gaps around doors and vents
• Checking beneath nest boxes and along walls

Be especially cautious with traps and control products around birds, barn cats, dogs and children.

Use Traps Strategically

Traps can be an effective part of a rodent-control plan, especially when they are placed early and checked consistently.

Rodents often travel along walls and behind objects rather than crossing open spaces. Place traps where activity has been observed, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Good practices include:

• Selecting traps appropriate for mice or rats
• Placing them along known travel routes
• Keeping them away from livestock, pets and children
• Using protective trap stations where needed
• Checking traps frequently
• Wearing gloves when handling traps or rodents
• Cleaning affected areas safely
• Recording where activity is occurring

One or two traps may not be enough for a large barn. Monitor results and adjust placement based on fresh evidence.

Barn cats may discourage some rodent activity, but they should not be the farm’s only control method. Prevention, sanitation, building maintenance and monitoring are still necessary.

Use Rodenticides With Care

Rodenticides are poisonous and can create serious risks for livestock, pets, wildlife and people if they are not handled properly.

Health Canada advises using rodenticides only as directed on the product label and securing them in appropriate bait stations. Products should be stored away from food and placed where children and animals cannot access them.

Before using a rodenticide:

• Read the complete label.
• Confirm that the product is approved for the intended location.
• Use a secure, tamper-resistant bait station when required.
• Keep bait away from feed, hay and water.
• Prevent access by livestock, pets, children and wildlife.
• Wear the recommended protective equipment.
• Follow placement, inspection and disposal directions.
• Store unused products in their original containers.
• Never scatter loose bait around a barn.
• Never use more than the label allows.

If the infestation is significant, recurring or difficult to control safely, contact a licensed pest-control professional.

Check Wiring and Equipment

Rodents may chew electrical wiring, increasing the risk of equipment failure and barn fires.
Inspect accessible wiring around:

• Feed rooms
• Water systems
• Fans
• Heaters
• Lighting
• Refrigeration equipment
• Electric fencing supplies
• Stored machinery

Look for tooth marks, exposed wire, damaged insulation or nesting material around warm equipment. Electrical repairs should be completed by a qualified professional.

Machinery stored for the winter should also be checked. Rodents can nest in engine compartments, air filters, seats and enclosed panels. Clean equipment before storage and inspect it periodically throughout the season.

Clean Rodent-Contaminated Areas Safely

Avoid stirring contaminated dust into the air. Wear gloves and follow appropriate public-health guidance when cleaning droppings, nesting material or dead rodents.

Keep livestock, pets and children away during cleanup. Heavily contaminated feed, bedding and other materials should be discarded safely. Wash hands thoroughly after removing gloves and handling traps or control products.

For extensive contamination, seek professional advice before beginning cleanup.

Keep Monitoring Throughout Winter

Rodent control is not a one-time fall chore. Continue checking grain rooms, hay storage, barns and sheds throughout the winter.
Create a simple monitoring routine:

Weekly

• Check traps and bait stations.
• Look for fresh droppings.
• Clean feed spills.
• Inspect opened feed bags.
• Check water lines for leaks.

Monthly

• Inspect doors and building exteriors.
• Look behind bins, shelving and equipment.
• Review feed use for unexplained losses.
• Check stored machinery and wiring.
• Remove unnecessary clutter.

Keep a record of where signs are found and what control steps were taken. Recurring activity in the same area may point to an overlooked entry point or food source.

Fall Rodent-Prevention Checklist

Before cold weather settles in:

1. Seal gaps around doors, foundations and utility openings.
2. Install or replace damaged door sweeps.
3. Transfer feed into secure containers.
4. Clean beneath bins, shelves and feeders.
5. Organize hay and remove loose material.
6. Cut back weeds and brush around buildings.
7. Repair leaking water lines.
8. Remove clutter and nesting materials.
9. Inspect electrical wiring and stored equipment.
10. Place traps or secured bait stations where appropriate.
11. Keep all control products away from livestock, pets and children.
12. Continue monitoring throughout winter.

Stay One Step Ahead of Rodent Season

The best time to address rodents is before they become established. A clean grain room, organized hay-storage area, sealed building and consistent monitoring routine can help protect livestock feed, equipment and farm buildings all winter.

Feeds’n Needs carries a variety of farm and barn supplies to help you prepare for the season, including feed-storage solutions, traps, bait stations, protective gloves and cleanup essentials. Product selection may vary by location, so visit your local store and speak with our knowledgeable team about options suited to your barn or farm.

Seal the gaps, secure the feed and stay ahead of unwanted winter visitors.

 

As Maritime farms move from pasture season toward winter housing, fall is an important time to evaluate parasite pressure in cattle, sheep, goats, pigs and other livestock.

Internal parasites can affect feed efficiency, weight gain, reproductive performance and overall animal health. However, effective control is not as simple as automatically treating every animal at the end of the grazing season. Parasite species, animal age, pasture conditions, previous treatments and product resistance can all influence the right approach.

A successful fall parasite-control program combines close observation, manure monitoring, pasture management, accurate dosing and species-appropriate treatment under veterinary guidance.

Why Parasite Pressure Can Increase During Pasture Season

Many internal parasites release eggs through manure. Under suitable conditions, the eggs develop into infective larvae that contaminate pasture, bedding, soil, feed or water.

Warm temperatures and moisture can support parasite development throughout the grazing season. Atlantic Canada’s damp conditions, heavy rainfall and periods of mild fall weather may allow animals to remain exposed later into the year.

Young livestock, newly weaned animals, animals under nutritional stress and those grazing heavily stocked fields may be especially vulnerable. By fall, animals may have accumulated a significant parasite burden even when obvious symptoms are not present.

Warning Signs of Parasites in Livestock

Parasite infections do not look the same in every species. Some animals continue eating and appear relatively normal while experiencing reduced growth or feed efficiency. Others may become noticeably unwell.

Possible warning signs include:

• Unexplained weight loss or poor weight gain
• Reduced appetite
• Dull, rough or unthrifty coats
• Diarrhea or persistently loose manure
• Pale gums or eyelids
• Swelling beneath the jaw, sometimes called “bottle jaw”
• Pot-bellied appearance
• Coughing or difficulty breathing
• Weakness, lethargy or reduced activity
• Poor feed conversion
• Reduced milk production
• Lower reproductive performance
• Increased susceptibility to other health problems

These signs are not exclusive to parasites. Nutritional deficiencies, respiratory disease, bacterial infections and other conditions may cause similar symptoms. A veterinarian can help identify the underlying problem before treatment begins.

Parasite Concerns by Species

Cattle

Pastured cattle may encounter gastrointestinal roundworms, lungworms, lice, grubs and other internal or external parasites. Calves and yearlings are often more vulnerable than mature cattle because they have had less time to develop immunity.

Poor weight gain, diarrhea, a rough hair coat and reduced body condition can indicate a problem. Lungworm infections may also cause coughing or respiratory distress.

A fall control plan may consider:

• The age and production stage of the cattle
• Length of the grazing season
• Stocking density
• Pasture history
• Previous deworming products
• Body condition and weight gain
• Manure-testing results
• Whether cattle will be housed for winter

Sheep and Goats

Small ruminants can be particularly vulnerable to gastrointestinal parasites, including barber pole worm. This blood-feeding parasite can cause severe anemia, weakness and bottle jaw, sometimes without diarrhea.

Checking eyelid colour can help trained producers identify anemia associated with barber pole worm. However, the FAMACHA system should be learned from a veterinarian or qualified instructor and used as one part of a broader monitoring program.

Other warning signs in sheep and goats include reduced growth, diarrhea, poor fleece or hair-coat quality, weight loss and declining body condition. Goats and sheep do not always respond to dewormers in the same way, and products labelled for one species should never automatically be assumed appropriate for the other.

Pigs

Pigs can be affected by roundworms, whipworms, strongyles and other parasites. Outdoor pigs may face greater exposure through contaminated soil, bedding and manure, although indoor herds can also experience parasite problems when sanitation and biosecurity practices are inconsistent.

Possible signs include:

• Reduced growth
• Poor feed efficiency
• Rough hair coats
• Coughing
• Diarrhea
• Loss of condition
• Uneven growth within a group

Pig parasite management should include cleaning pens, keeping feeders and waterers free from manure, rotating outdoor areas when practical and using a deworming product specifically labelled or prescribed for swine.

Other Livestock

Parasite-control needs also vary among poultry, llamas, alpacas and other farm animals. Coccidia, worms and external parasites require different monitoring and treatment strategies. A general livestock dewormer is not appropriate for every animal or every parasite.

Manure Monitoring: Look Beyond What You Can See

Regularly observing manure can provide valuable information. Watch for ongoing diarrhea, unusual consistency, blood, mucus or changes affecting multiple animals.

However, normal-looking manure does not confirm that an animal is parasite-free. Most parasite eggs and larvae are microscopic, and adult worms are not usually visible in manure.

A fecal egg count can help estimate the number and type of parasite eggs being shed. Results can support treatment decisions, identify higher-risk animals and help determine whether a deworming program is working.

Producers should remember that fecal egg counts have limitations. Egg shedding can vary, some parasites are not reliably detected through routine testing, and egg counts do not always directly reflect the number of adult parasites present. Results should be interpreted alongside clinical signs, body condition, production records and veterinary advice.

A fecal egg count reduction test compares samples collected before and after treatment. This can help assess whether the selected dewormer is still effective.

Pasture Management Is Part of Parasite Control

Deworming products are only one part of an effective parasite-management program. Reducing exposure can lower the number of infective larvae animals consume and may decrease reliance on repeated treatments.

Helpful pasture practices may include:

• Avoiding overgrazing
• Preventing excessive stocking density
• Rotating fields when sufficient land is available
• Resting heavily used paddocks
• Moving feeders and waterers away from manure-heavy areas
• Keeping feed off the ground
• Separating young, vulnerable animals from heavily contaminated pasture
• Maintaining clean, dry bedding
• Removing manure from pens and high-traffic areas
• Avoiding unnecessary grazing close to the soil surface

Rotational grazing can support parasite control, but short rotations alone do not guarantee clean pasture. Many parasite larvae remain viable after livestock move, especially during cool, damp conditions. Returning animals too quickly may expose them to larvae left during the previous rotation.

Pasture decisions should consider the parasite involved, weather, rest period, stocking rate and animal species.

Understanding Dewormer Resistance

Antiparasitic resistance occurs when parasites survive a treatment that once controlled them and pass those resistant traits to future generations. Over time, a dewormer may become less effective.

Resistance is a growing concern in cattle and small ruminants. Repeatedly treating every animal, underdosing and relying on the same drug class can increase selection pressure. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration recommends working with a veterinarian to develop parasite-control strategies that help preserve the effectiveness of available treatments. Learn more about antiparasitic resistance.

Ways to help slow resistance include:

• Treating based on risk, testing and veterinary recommendations
• Weighing animals or using an accurate weight estimate
• Calibrating drench guns and other dosing equipment
• Giving the full, correct dose
• Avoiding repeated use of one product simply out of habit
• Checking product effectiveness through follow-up testing
• Keeping accurate treatment records
• Using targeted treatment when appropriate
• Avoiding unnecessary deworming

Underdosing is not a safer option. It may fail to control parasites while allowing the more tolerant ones to survive. At the same time, giving more than the labelled dose can create animal-health and residue risks. Always follow the product label and veterinary directions.

Choose Species-Appropriate Products

Not every dewormer treats every parasite, and products cannot be freely interchanged among cattle, sheep, goats and pigs.

Before selecting a product, confirm:

• The animal species listed on the label
• The parasite species controlled
• The animal’s age and weight
• The correct dose and method of administration
• Meat and milk withdrawal periods
• Restrictions for pregnant or lactating animals
• Whether the product is approved for the intended production class
• Previous treatments and possible resistance
• Storage requirements and expiry date

Dewormers are available in several forms, including oral drenches, injectables, feed medications, pastes and pour-on products. The most convenient option is not always the most appropriate one.

Never assume that a cattle pour-on is suitable for sheep, goats or pigs. Goats may require veterinary direction because product approvals and dosing needs can differ. Some dewormers may also be unsuitable during particular stages of pregnancy.

Coccidia require additional consideration. They are protozoan parasites, not worms, and standard dewormers may not control them. Young animals with diarrhea, poor growth or dehydration should be assessed promptly so the cause can be identified and the correct treatment selected.

Don’t Forget Withdrawal Periods

Livestock intended for meat or producing milk for human consumption require careful attention to withdrawal periods. These periods vary by product, species, dose and route of administration.

Record:

• The animal or group treated
• Product name
• Lot number
• Date administered
• Dose
• Route of administration
• Person administering the treatment
• Meat or milk withdrawal date

Never send treated animals to market or use their milk for human consumption before the required withdrawal period has passed.

Build a Fall Parasite-Control Checklist

Before livestock move into winter housing:

1. Review body condition, weight gain and overall appearance.
2. Watch for diarrhea, coughing, anemia, bottle jaw or reduced performance.
3. Examine manure patterns and collect fecal samples when recommended.
4. Review pasture use and stocking density from the grazing season.
5. Check treatment records from spring and summer.
6. Discuss testing and product selection with your veterinarian.
7. Weigh animals and calibrate dosing equipment.
8. Use only a product appropriate for the species and parasite being targeted.
9. Record the treatment and applicable withdrawal period.
10. Arrange follow-up monitoring to confirm that the treatment worked.

Support Health Before Winter

Fall parasite control is about more than administering a dewormer. It is an opportunity to evaluate each herd or flock, reduce winter health challenges and protect the effectiveness of parasite-control products for the future.

Feeds’n Needs carries a selection of livestock health supplies, handling equipment, minerals, feeders and species-appropriate parasite-control products. Visit your local store and speak with our knowledgeable team about available options. For diagnosis, testing, dosing decisions and treatment planning, always work with your veterinarian.

A thoughtful fall plan can help livestock enter winter in stronger condition—ready to make better use of their feed and better prepared for the colder months ahead.

Why Fall Can Affect Your Pet’s Skin and Coat

Atlantic Canadian fall weather can shift quickly from warm afternoons to chilly, rainy days. Pets may move between damp outdoor conditions and heated indoor spaces, while dogs are often exposed to wet grass, mud, leaves and debris during daily walks.

Seasonal allergens may also contribute to itchy skin, paw chewing, facial rubbing, red skin, excessive tearing or recurring ear discomfort. Fleas and ticks can remain active during cool fall weather, so parasite prevention should not automatically end when summer does.

Pay attention to changes in your pet’s normal habits. Frequent scratching, licking or head shaking is often one of the first signs that something is irritating them.

1. Brush Regularly and Check the Skin

Many cats and dogs shed as their coats adjust for the cooler months. Regular brushing removes loose hair, helps prevent mats and gives you an opportunity to look closely at the skin.

While brushing, check for:

• Redness, flakes, scabs or irritated patches
• New lumps or tender areas
• Fleas, flea dirt or attached ticks
• Burrs, seeds, twigs and other debris
• Excessive oiliness, odour or hair loss

Choose a brush suited to your pet’s coat type. Long-haired pets may need more frequent grooming to prevent mats, especially behind the ears, under the legs and around the tail. Mats can trap moisture close to the skin and make irritation more difficult to spot.

2. Protect and Clean Paws After Outdoor Time

Wet grass, mud, gravel and plant debris can collect between paw pads. After walks or outdoor play, wipe or rinse your dog’s paws and dry them thoroughly, including the spaces between the toes. Outdoor cats may also benefit from a gentle paw check when they come inside.

Keep the fur between the paw pads neat if it tends to trap dirt or form mats, and inspect nails regularly. A pet-safe paw balm can help protect dry or rough pads; use only products made for pets and follow the label directions.

Watch for persistent paw licking, chewing, swelling, redness, odour, bleeding or limping. These signs may point to an allergy, injury, infection or foreign object and should be discussed with your veterinarian.

3. Manage Watery Eyes Gently

Wind, dust and seasonal allergens may irritate the area around a pet’s eyes. Some cats and dogs also naturally produce more visible tears than others.

For mild buildup around the eye, use a clean, soft, damp cloth or a pet-safe eye wipe to gently clean the surrounding fur. Use a separate clean area of the cloth for each eye, and never place shampoo, soap or unapproved drops in the eye.

Contact your veterinarian if you notice:

• Redness, swelling or squinting
• A cloudy or injured-looking eye
• Thick, yellow, green or bloody discharge
• Sudden or excessive tearing
• Pawing at the eye or signs of pain

Eye problems can worsen quickly, so prompt veterinary advice is important when symptoms are persistent, painful or unusual for your pet.

4. Keep Ears Clean, Dry and Comfortable

Floppy-eared dogs, pets with allergies and animals that spend time in wet conditions may be more prone to ear trouble. Check the outer ear regularly for redness, excess wax, discharge, swelling or a strong odour.

If your veterinarian has recommended routine ear cleaning, use a pet-specific ear cleaner and follow the directions carefully. Do not push cotton swabs or other objects into the ear canal. After rainy walks, bathing or swimming, gently dry the outer ear and surrounding fur.

Repeated head shaking, ear scratching, sensitivity, dark debris or a foul smell can signal mites, yeast, bacteria, allergies or another problem. An ear infection can be painful and usually needs a veterinary assessment rather than home treatment.

5. Bathe Without Drying Out the Skin

Fall adventures sometimes end with a muddy dog or dirty outdoor cat, but frequent bathing can strip natural oils from the coat. Bathe only as needed using a shampoo formulated for cats or dogs. Human shampoos may be too harsh for a pet’s skin.

Rinse thoroughly, because leftover shampoo can cause irritation, and dry the coat completely before your pet heads back outside. Pets with sensitive, itchy or flaky skin may benefit from a moisturizing or veterinarian-recommended formula.

Between baths, pet-safe grooming wipes can be useful for quick cleanups of paws, legs and coats.

6. Support Healthy Skin and Fur Through Nutrition

A complete and balanced diet provides the protein, fats, vitamins and minerals needed to support healthy skin and a strong coat. Some foods and supplements contain omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, which help support skin and coat condition.

Before adding oils or supplements, speak with your veterinarian—especially if your pet has a medical condition, follows a therapeutic diet or takes medication. Supplements are not a substitute for diagnosing ongoing itching, hair loss or inflammation.

Fresh water matters in every season. Indoor heating can create a drier environment, so make sure clean drinking water is always easy to access. Some cats may drink more readily from a pet fountain or when multiple water stations are available.

7. Continue Flea and Tick Protection

Cooler weather does not necessarily mean fleas and ticks have disappeared. Fleas can survive indoors, and ticks may remain active whenever conditions are suitable. Bites can cause skin irritation, and some pets are highly sensitive to flea saliva.

Continue the prevention plan recommended by your veterinarian, and check your pet after time in tall grass, brush, wooded areas or fallen leaves. Never use a dog-only flea or tick product on a cat; some canine ingredients can be dangerous to cats.

Build a Simple Fall Pet-Care Routine

A practical weekly routine can make seasonal care easier:

1. Brush the coat and inspect the skin.
2. Check paws, pads and nails after outdoor activity.
3. Wipe away mild eye-area buildup gently.
4. Look at the outer ears for redness, debris or odour.
5. Check for fleas and ticks.
6. Wash bedding and keep favourite resting areas clean and dry.

When to Call Your Veterinarian

Seasonal grooming can support your pet’s comfort, but it cannot replace veterinary care. Book an appointment if your cat or dog develops persistent itching, open sores, hot spots, hair loss, strong odour, swollen paws, painful ears, unusual eye discharge or a sudden change in behaviour.

Prepare Your Pet for a Comfortable Fall

Every pet experiences seasonal changes differently. By watching for small changes and keeping up with regular grooming, paw care, ear checks, eye-area cleaning, good nutrition and parasite prevention, you can help your cat or dog stay comfortable from the first cool morning through the wettest fall days.

Visit your local Feeds’n Needs for grooming brushes, pet-safe shampoos and wipes, paw-care products, flea and tick solutions, nutritious cat and dog food, supplements, treats and seasonal supplies. Our knowledgeable team is here to help you find practical products that suit your pet and their routine.

When a concern goes beyond everyday grooming, your veterinarian is always the best source of diagnosis and treatment advice.

Fall Cleanup, Compost, Soil Protection and Garden Tool Storage

A productive spring garden starts with the work you do in the fall. Once the final vegetables are harvested and frost begins settling across Atlantic Canada, preparing your raised garden beds for winter can protect the soil, reduce pest and disease problems and make spring planting much easier.

Maritime winters bring repeated freezing and thawing, heavy rain, strong winds, snow and periods of saturated soil. Raised beds drain better than many in-ground gardens, but exposed soil can still erode, compact and lose nutrients if it is left unprotected.

From removing diseased plants to adding compost and draining garden hoses, this raised garden bed winter checklist will help you put your garden to rest properly.

Why Raised Garden Beds Need Fall Preparation

Raised beds are productive because they provide good drainage, warmer spring soil and greater control over soil quality. Their elevated design can also leave the soil more exposed to winter weather.

Without fall preparation, raised garden beds may experience:

• Soil erosion from rain and melting snow
• Nutrient loss
• Compaction
• Weed growth
• Overwintering pests
• Recurring plant diseases
• Damage to wooden boards or fasteners
• Frozen or cracked watering equipment
• A larger cleanup job in spring

Preparing raised garden beds before winter protects the investment you have made in your soil, plants and garden structure.

1. Finish Harvesting Before Winter

Begin by collecting the last usable vegetables and herbs. Some cold-tolerant crops can remain in the garden after light frost, while tender plants should be harvested before temperatures drop significantly.

Late-season crops may include:

• Carrots
• Beets
• Kale
• Swiss chard
• Leeks
• Spinach
• Brussels sprouts
• Parsnips
• Hardy herbs

Use your local forecast and the needs of each crop to determine when to harvest. Atlantic Canadian frost dates vary by province and even between inland and coastal communities.

Healthy root crops may be left in the soil temporarily under a protective layer of mulch, but harvest plans should account for frozen ground, wildlife and excessive moisture.

2. Remove Spent and Diseased Plants

Once harvesting is complete, remove annual vegetable plants, fallen fruit and other garden debris.

Pay particular attention to plants showing possible signs of disease, including:

• Spotted or discoloured leaves
• Powdery or fuzzy growth
• Blackened stems
• Unusual wilting
• Rotting roots or fruit
• Cankers or damaged plant tissue
• Significant insect infestations

Removing affected material can help reduce the chance of pests or plant diseases overwintering in the bed and returning next season.

Should Diseased Plants Go in the Compost?

Healthy plant material can generally be added to a properly managed compost pile. Diseased or heavily infested plants require more caution.

A typical backyard compost pile may not become hot enough throughout to destroy every plant pathogen, pest or weed seed. Keep questionable material out of your regular compost and dispose of it according to local municipal guidelines.

Do not leave diseased plants lying beside the raised bed or mix them back into the garden soil.

3. Remove Weeds Before They Produce Seed

Fall weeds compete for moisture and nutrients and may provide shelter for insects. Remove them before they mature and release seeds into the bed.

Pull weeds carefully, removing as much of the root system as possible. Pay special attention to perennial weeds that can survive winter and return from established roots in spring.

Do not place mature weeds containing seed heads into a cool backyard compost pile. The seeds may survive and spread when the compost is used later.

Feeds’n Needs carries garden gloves, hand cultivators, hoes, rakes and other tools to help with end-of-season garden cleanup. Product selection varies by location.

4. Inspect the Raised Bed Structure

With the plants removed, fall is a good time to examine the bed itself.

Check for:

• Loose boards
• Rotting wood
• Bowed or shifting sides
• Protruding screws or nails
• Rusted brackets
• Damaged corner joints
• Soil leaking from gaps
• Signs of rodents
• Poor drainage around the base

Tighten loose hardware and complete minor repairs before snow hides the damage. If a board is beginning to fail, replacing it in fall can prevent the bed from shifting under the weight of wet soil and snow.

Avoid using wood treatments that are not intended for use near edible gardens.

5. Add Compost to Raised Garden Beds in Fall

Fall is an excellent time to add finished compost to a raised bed. Compost adds organic matter, supports soil structure and helps replenish nutrients used during the growing season.

Spread a layer of finished compost over the bed’s surface. A modest top-dressing is usually enough; the appropriate amount will depend on the existing soil and the compost being used.

You may use:

• Fully finished compost
• Properly composted manure
• A suitable garden soil amendment
• A quality soil-and-compost blend

Only use well-composted manure around vegetable gardens. Fresh manure can contain excessive nutrients, weed seeds and potentially harmful microorganisms.

Feeds’n Needs offers seasonal soil, compost and manure-based garden amendments at select locations. Ask our team which option is appropriate for your raised garden beds and always follow package directions.

6. Test Before Adding Lime or Fertilizer

It can be tempting to add lime or fertilizer automatically during fall cleanup, but more is not always better.

A soil test can help determine:

• Soil pH
• Organic matter levels
• Nutrient availability
• Whether lime is required
• Which amendments may benefit the next crop

Applying lime without knowing the soil pH may make certain nutrients less available to plants. Similarly, unnecessary fertilizer can be lost through runoff or contribute to nutrient imbalances.

If testing recommends an amendment, follow the application rate carefully. Feeds’n Needs carries select lime, fertilizer and soil-improvement products, but product choice should be based on your soil conditions and intended crops.

7. Protect Bare Soil Through Winter

Do not leave raised garden bed soil completely bare if it can be avoided. Heavy rain, snowmelt and wind can move exposed soil and wash away nutrients.

A protective cover can also reduce compaction and limit winter weed growth.

Mulch

Apply an appropriate layer of:

• Clean straw
• Chopped leaves
• Leaf mulch
• Suitable untreated organic material

Mulch helps protect the soil surface from erosion and reduces damage caused by repeated freezing and thawing. Avoid thick, waterlogged layers that may mat down and restrict airflow.

Do not use plant material that is diseased, heavily infested or full of mature weed seeds.

Cover Crops

If there is enough growing time before hard frost, a suitable cover crop can help protect the soil and add organic matter.

The best cover crop will depend on:

• Planting date
• Local climate
• Bed size
• Winter hardiness
• Your spring planting schedule

Choose carefully and understand how the crop will be managed in spring. A cover crop should not become a weed or delay planting.

Garden Covers

A breathable garden cover can help keep leaves and debris from blowing into the bed. Secure it carefully so Atlantic Canadian wind does not carry it away.

Avoid sealing wet soil under non-breathable plastic for the entire winter. Trapped moisture can create poor conditions and plastic may tear under snow or ice.

8. Decide What Should Remain in the Bed

Not every plant needs to be removed.

Healthy perennial herbs and vegetables may remain, depending on their winter hardiness. These could include:

• Chives
• Thyme
• Oregano
• Asparagus
• Rhubarb
• Strawberries

Remove dead or diseased growth as appropriate and protect vulnerable roots with mulch. Some plants benefit from waiting until after frost before cutting back.

Do not assume every perennial will survive an Atlantic Canadian winter in a raised bed. Elevated soil can become colder than surrounding ground, especially when the bed is exposed to wind. Check the hardiness requirements for each plant.

9. Clean and Store Stakes, Cages and Supports

Tomato cages, trellises, plant stakes and garden ties can carry soil and plant debris from one season to the next.

Before storage:

1. Remove vines, roots and old ties.
2. Brush away soil and debris.
3. Wash reusable supports.
4. Allow everything to dry completely.
5. Inspect for cracks, rust or sharp edges.
6. Store items in a dry, sheltered area.

Discard damaged supports that cannot be used safely. Organize stakes and cages by size so they are easy to find during spring planting.

Cleaning reusable garden supports also reduces the amount of old plant material left available to harbour pests.

10. Clean and Store Garden Tools

Soil and moisture can cause rust, dull blades and damage wooden handles. A few minutes of fall maintenance can extend the life of your tools.

Garden Tool Storage Checklist

• Remove all soil and plant debris.
• Wash tools when necessary.
• Dry them thoroughly.
• Sharpen pruners, hoes and shovel edges if appropriate.
• Inspect handles for cracks or splinters.
• Tighten loose screws and fasteners.
• Store tools off the floor in a dry location.
• Keep sharp tools safely away from children and pets.

Clean cutting tools between diseased and healthy plants during the season and before winter storage. Use a cleaning or disinfecting method appropriate for the tool material and allow it to dry completely.

Feeds’n Needs carries work gloves, rakes, shovels, hand tools and seasonal garden accessories to help complete fall garden cleanup.

11. Drain and Store Hoses and Watering Equipment

Water left inside a hose, nozzle or watering wand can freeze, expand and cause cracking.

Before freezing temperatures arrive:

• Disconnect hoses from outdoor taps.
• Drain hoses completely.
• Remove nozzles and watering wands.
• Empty watering cans and portable containers.
• Drain irrigation lines according to manufacturer directions.
• Store hoses loosely coiled in a sheltered location.
• Shut off and drain outdoor plumbing where applicable.
• Inspect washers and fittings for wear.

Avoid hanging a hose tightly from one point, as this can create kinks or stress the material. A hose reel or broad wall hanger provides better support.

If you use timers, filters or pressure regulators, remove and store them before hard freezes unless the manufacturer states they are designed for winter exposure.

12. Record What Grew in Each Bed

Before snow covers the garden, make a simple map of what was planted in each raised bed.

Record:

• Crops grown
• Varieties that performed well
• Pest or disease problems
• Compost and amendments added
• Areas with poor drainage
• Crops that struggled
• Harvest timing
• Plans for crop rotation

Garden records can make spring planning easier and help prevent planting closely related vegetables in the same location year after year.

Raised Garden Bed Winter Checklist

Before winter arrives:

• Harvest remaining vegetables.
• Remove spent annual plants.
• Separate diseased material from healthy compostable debris.
• Pull weeds before they produce seed.
• Remove fallen or rotting produce.
• Inspect boards, corners and hardware.
• Add finished compost where appropriate.
• Test soil before applying lime or fertilizer.
• Cover bare soil with mulch or another suitable option.
• Protect overwintering perennials.
• Clean and store cages, stakes and trellises.
• Clean, dry and organize garden tools.
• Drain and store hoses and watering equipment.
• Record crops, problems and amendments.
• Secure all covers against wind.

Give Next Year’s Garden a Better Start

Preparing raised garden beds for winter does more than make the yard look tidy. It protects valuable soil, reduces potential pest and disease problems and creates better conditions for spring planting.

Atlantic Canadian weather can be hard on exposed gardens, but removing diseased plants, adding finished compost, protecting bare soil and properly storing garden equipment can help your raised beds handle the months ahead.

Visit your local Feeds’n Needs for seasonal compost, soil amendments, mulch options, gloves, garden tools, hose accessories and other supplies for your fall garden cleanup. Product availability varies by store location.

Strategic Deworming, Warning Signs and Pasture Management for a Healthier Herd

As summer show schedules slow down and horses transition from pasture to winter routines, fall is an important time to review your parasite-control program.

Warm days, cool nights, autumn rain and heavily grazed paddocks can create favourable conditions for parasite exposure across Atlantic Canada. However, effective fall parasite control is no longer as simple as giving every horse the same dewormer on the same calendar date.

A responsible program considers each horse’s age, health, environment, travel history and previous treatments. It also combines veterinarian-guided deworming with accurate dosing, proper recordkeeping and good pasture management.

Why Equine Parasite Control Matters

Internal parasites are a normal management concern for grazing horses. Parasite eggs are passed in manure, develop in the environment and may later be ingested while horses graze.

A significant parasite burden may contribute to:

• Unexplained weight loss
• Poor body condition
• A dull or rough hair coat
• Reduced appetite
• Diarrhea or changes in manure
• Poor growth in young horses
• Reduced energy or performance
• Recurring digestive discomfort
• Colic in some cases

These signs are not exclusive to parasites. Dental problems, poor nutrition, ulcers and other health conditions can cause similar symptoms. A horse showing weight loss, diarrhea, colic or a noticeable change in behaviour should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Why Fall Deserves Special Attention

Atlantic Canadian pastures can remain damp well into the fall. Moderate temperatures and moisture can allow certain parasite eggs and larvae to continue developing on pasture.

Colder weather may slow that development, but the first frost does not automatically eliminate every parasite risk.

Fall also brings several management changes:

• Horses may move from pasture into smaller paddocks.
• Grazing areas may become shorter or overused.
• Animals may gather around shared hay and water.
• Horses may return home after shows, clinics or summer boarding.
• New horses may be introduced to a barn.
• Manure may become concentrated around winter feeding areas.
• Changing weather may increase time spent in high-traffic turnout areas.

These conditions make fall a useful time to review your horse’s parasite-control plan with your veterinarian.

How to Know When Your Horse May Need Deworming

Parasites are not always easy to detect. Some horses can carry and shed parasites without showing obvious outward signs.

Possible signs that warrant a conversation with your veterinarian include:

• Unexplained weight loss
• Difficulty maintaining body condition
• A dull, rough or unusually long hair coat
• Reduced appetite
• Loose manure or recurring diarrhea
• Reduced energy or performance
• Poor growth in young horses
• A pot-bellied appearance in young horses
• Tail rubbing or irritation around the dock
• Recurrent digestive discomfort
• Pale gums, weakness or lethargy
• Visible worms or unusual material in manure
• Declining topline despite appropriate feeding

These symptoms do not confirm that a horse has parasites. Contact your veterinarian before administering a dewormer, particularly if the horse is losing weight, showing signs of colic or appears unwell.

Consider Your Horse’s Risk Factors

A horse can look healthy and still have parasite exposure. Certain management conditions may increase risk, including:

• Heavily used or overstocked pasture
• Sharing paddocks with several horses
• Grazing very short grass near manure-contaminated areas
• Irregular manure removal
• Frequent travel to shows, clinics or boarding facilities
• Recent arrival at a new barn
• Contact with horses that have an unknown treatment history
• A history of parasite problems
• An inconsistent deworming program
• Young or advanced age
• Poor body condition or existing health concerns

Foals, young horses, seniors and horses with health problems may require different parasite-control strategies. Their plans should always be developed with a veterinarian.

Why Appearance Alone Is Not Enough

A horse can appear healthy while still contributing parasite eggs to its environment. On the other hand, a thin horse does not automatically need deworming.

Giving a dewormer based only on appearance or a fixed calendar can lead to unnecessary treatment. It may also contribute to anthelmintic resistance—the ability of parasites to survive a product that was previously effective.

Your veterinarian can consider the horse’s age, health, living conditions, previous treatments and exposure risks before recommending whether treatment is appropriate.

Move Away from Automatic Calendar Deworming

For many years, it was common to deworm every horse at fixed intervals and rotate products throughout the year. Current veterinary recommendations advise against blindly treating every horse using the same repeating schedule.

A strategic parasite-control program may consider:

• The horse’s age and individual health
• Previous parasite-control history
• Pasture and housing conditions
• Travel and exposure to unfamiliar horses
• Parasites of concern
• Products previously administered
• Known resistance on the property
• The most appropriate seasonal timing
• Whether additional veterinary monitoring is needed

The American Association of Equine Practitioners advises against deworming all horses at fixed intervals year-round or blindly rotating dewormer classes.

Choosing the Right Horse Dewormer

There is no single dewormer that is automatically right for every horse, parasite or farm.

Different products contain different active ingredients and target different parasites or life stages. The product used last fall may not necessarily be the correct choice this year.

Before selecting a horse dewormer, speak with your veterinarian about:

• The horse’s age
• Current health and body condition
• Pregnancy or nursing status
• Recent symptoms or digestive concerns
• Previous products and treatment dates
• Other medications or health conditions
• Travel and show history
• New arrivals at the barn
• Parasites of concern
• Known or suspected resistance
• Appropriate timing for treatment

Never combine dewormers, change the recommended dose or give a horse a product intended for another livestock species unless specifically directed by a veterinarian.

Feeds’n Needs carries equine deworming products at select locations. Availability varies by store, and our team can help you locate the product recommended by your veterinarian.

Accurate Weight and Dosing Matter

Underdosing may result in ineffective treatment and contribute to resistance. Estimating a horse’s weight by sight can be difficult, especially when the horse has a thick winter coat or carries weight unevenly.

Use a livestock scale when available. An equine weight tape can provide a practical estimate when a scale is not accessible.

Once your veterinarian has recommended a product:

1. Read the complete product label.
2. Confirm the horse’s current weight.
3. Set the dosing syringe carefully.
4. Make sure the horse receives the full dose.
5. Confirm that the medication has been swallowed.
6. Record the product, active ingredient, dose and date.
7. Monitor the horse as advised by your veterinarian.

Never administer more than the labelled or veterinarian-prescribed amount.

Keep Individual Deworming Records

Maintain a parasite-control record for every horse rather than relying on memory or a general barn calendar.

Record:

• Treatment date
• Product name
• Active ingredient
• Dose administered
• Estimated or measured weight
• Reason for treatment
• Previous veterinary recommendations
• Reactions or concerns after treatment
• Travel and new-horse introductions
• Pasture or housing changes

Good records help prevent accidental repeat treatments and allow your veterinarian to identify patterns over time.

Pasture Management Is Part of Parasite Control

Deworming alone is not a complete parasite-control program. Horses can be exposed again when grazing contaminated areas, making manure and pasture management essential.

Remove Manure Regularly

Pick manure from smaller paddocks, dry lots and high-traffic areas regularly. Pay particular attention to:

• Hay-feeding areas
• Gates and laneways
• Shelters
• Water sources
• Small sacrifice paddocks
• Winter turnout areas

Feeds’n Needs carries stable forks, manure-handling tools, wheelbarrows and other barn-cleaning supplies that make regular cleanup easier.

Avoid Overcrowding

More horses in a limited area generally means more manure and greater environmental contamination. Avoid overcrowding whenever possible and provide enough room around hay, water and shelter areas.

Prevent Overgrazing

Horses grazing very short pasture may feed closer to manure-contaminated areas. Rest overused paddocks and provide suitable forage when grass becomes limited.

Moving hay feeders periodically can also help reduce concentrated manure and damaged ground around winter feeding areas.

Rotate Pastures Carefully

Pasture rotation can help protect forage and reduce overgrazing, but simply moving horses does not eliminate parasites.

Rotation works best when combined with:

• Regular manure removal
• Appropriate stocking density
• Rest periods for pasture
• Proper composting
• Veterinarian-guided parasite control
• Careful management of new arrivals

Quarantine New Horses

New horses may introduce parasites—including resistant populations—to a property.

Before turning a new horse out with the resident herd:

• Keep the horse in a separate area.
• Use separate buckets and manure tools where practical.
• Review its health and deworming history.
• Contact your veterinarian for an appropriate arrival protocol.
• Avoid spreading manure from quarantine areas onto active pasture.

Compost Manure Properly

Avoid spreading fresh horse manure directly onto fields currently being grazed. Proper composting creates heat that helps reduce parasite survival and produces a more useful soil amendment.

Keep compost piles away from feed and water sources and manage runoff during wet Atlantic Canadian weather.

Support Overall Health Through Fall

Parasite control is only one part of preparing a horse for winter. A horse entering the colder months in good condition is better positioned to handle declining pasture quality and changing weather.

Review:

• Body condition
• Forage quality and quantity
• Access to clean water
• Salt and mineral availability
• Dental care
• Hoof care
• Vaccination status
• Shelter and blanketing needs
• Feed changes as pasture declines

Feeds’n Needs offers equine feed, forage products, salt, minerals, buckets, weight tapes, manure forks and stable supplies to support your horse’s complete fall-care routine.

Nutritional products and supplements do not replace veterinary-prescribed parasite treatment.

Signs That Require Veterinary Attention

Do not wait for a planned deworming date if your horse develops concerning symptoms.

Contact your veterinarian if you notice:

• Colic or repeated digestive discomfort
• Persistent diarrhea
• Rapid or unexplained weight loss
• Weakness or lethargy
• Loss of appetite
• Pale gums
• Poor growth in a young horse
• Significant abdominal distension
• Sudden decline in body condition
• Visible worms accompanied by illness

Attempting to treat a sick or heavily affected horse without veterinary direction may delay proper diagnosis and care.

Fall Horse Deworming Checklist

Before administering a dewormer:

• Review your horse’s health and treatment history.
• Consider recent travel and exposure to unfamiliar horses.
• Watch for changes in weight, appetite, manure and performance.
• Discuss risk factors with your veterinarian.
• Ask which parasites should be targeted.
• Use only the veterinarian-recommended product.
• Measure or accurately estimate body weight.
• Follow the product label and dosing instructions.
• Record the product, active ingredient, dose and date.
• Monitor your horse following treatment.
• Remove manure from high-use areas.
• Rest overgrazed paddocks where possible.
• Quarantine new arrivals.
• Maintain good forage, water and mineral support.

Build a Smarter Fall Parasite-Control Program

Fall parasite control is not about automatically reaching for the same dewormer used last year. It is about considering the horse in front of you, identifying its risk factors and making informed decisions with your veterinarian.

Strategic deworming, accurate dosing, recordkeeping and responsible pasture management can help protect horse health while preserving the effectiveness of available products.

Once your veterinarian recommends an appropriate product, visit your local Feeds’n Needs for select equine dewormers, weight tapes, manure forks, buckets, stable-cleaning tools and other supplies that support responsible fall horse care. Product selection varies by location.