

How to protect animals, barns, feed and farm supplies before high winds, heavy rain and flash flooding arrive
Hurricane season can bring powerful winds, storm surge, prolonged power outages and sudden flooding to farms across Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. For livestock owners, equestrians and small-scale farmers, waiting until a storm is approaching can leave too little time to safely move animals, secure buildings or gather essential supplies.
A practical farm hurricane preparedness plan can reduce confusion, protect livestock and help your operation recover faster. Whether you care for horses, cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, poultry or a mixed backyard flock, preparation should begin well before the first warning is issued.
Why Atlantic Canadian farms need a hurricane plan.
Maritime weather can change quickly.
A hurricane or post-tropical storm may produce several hazards at once:
- High winds that damage barns, fencing and shelters
- Falling trees and airborne debris
- Heavy rainfall and flash flooding
- Storm surge in low-lying coastal areas
- Washed-out lanes, culverts and access roads
- Extended power, pump and communication outages
- Contaminated wells, pasture and feed
- Frightened animals that may escape through damaged fencing
Every property has different risks. Begin by identifying low-lying fields, waterways, weak structures, aging trees, flood-prone roads, and areas where animals could become trapped.
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada recommend maintaining a written emergency plan, farm map, livestock inventory, animal identification information and records of feed, equipment, hazardous materials and vaccinations. Review its emergency-planning guidance for producers here: Emergency planning is for producers too – agriculture.canada.ca
Create a livestock evacuation plan before the storm.
Decide in advance whether your animals will shelter on the farm or evacuate. This decision may depend on the storm’s projected path, local flood risk, road conditions, available transportation, and the strength of your buildings.
Your plan should answer the following questions:
- Where will each group of animals go?
- Is the destination on higher ground and outside the expected flood area?
- Are trailers and hauling vehicles ready?
- How many trips will be required?
- Who is available to help catch, load, and transport animals?
- Which evacuation routes and alternate routes can accommodate a trailer?
- Where will animals be housed if they cannot return immediately?
- Who will make the final decision to evacuate?
Never wait until water is rising or winds are severe to begin moving livestock. Trailers can become unsafe in strong crosswinds, and flooded roads may conceal washouts, debris, or damaged culverts. Follow instructions from local emergency officials and never drive through floodwater.
Practice loading animals before hurricane season; An emergency is not the time to introduce a horse, cow, sheep or goat to a trailer for the first time.
Prepare halters, leads and handling equipment
Reliable handling equipment can make evacuation faster and safer. Keep emergency supplies together in a clearly marked, easily accessible location—not buried at the back of a tack room or locked inside a building that could become unsafe.
For horses and suitable livestock, prepare:
- Properly fitted halters
- Strong lead ropes
- Spare halters in multiple sizes
- Livestock ties or trailer ties appropriate for the animal
- Quick-release hardware where appropriate
- Stable hooks and safe hanging hardware
- Livestock panels or portable gates
- Flashlights and headlamps
- Work gloves and sturdy footwear
Inspect every halter before storm season. Look for frayed webbing, stretched holes, rusted hardware, loose stitching and damaged snaps. Buckles should fasten securely, and the halter should fit closely enough that it cannot easily slip off without restricting breathing or movement.
Label halters and lead ropes with the owner’s name, phone number and the animal’s identification. Waterproof luggage tags, livestock markers or securely attached identification tags can help reunite an animal with its owner if fences fail or animals are displaced.
Do not leave an ordinary halter on an unattended animal unless your emergency plan specifically requires it and it can be done safely. Halters may catch on fencing, branches or barn hardware. Stage fitted halters where they can be reached quickly and consider breakaway options when appropriate. Ask your veterinarian or an experienced livestock professional for your species and setup.
Feeds’n Needs carries practical farm and stable essentials such as halters, lead ropes, ties, buckets, stable hooks and livestock-handling supplies to help owners prepare before severe weather arrives. Product availability may vary by store.
Identifying every animal
Visible identification is especially important when high winds or flooding can damage fences.
Depending on the species and provincial requirements, identification may include:
- Ear tags
- Tattoos
- Microchips
- Leg bands
- Halter tags
- Livestock-safe temporary marking
- Waterproof contact information attached securely to a suitable collar or halter
Keep current photos of horses and livestock, including distinguishing markings. Store digital and printed copies of ownership records, registration papers, health information, medications and vaccination records.
Maintain an updated list of animal numbers by species, pasture, and building. Ensure that another trusted person knows where the records are kept.
Reduce the risk from flash flooding
Flash flooding can rise quickly and cut off access to barns, pastures, and roads. Move animals away from flood-prone fields, riverbanks, drainage channels, and low-lying buildings before heavy rain begins.
Avoid locking animals inside a structure that is likely to flood. At the same time, do not release animals onto roads or unfamiliar land. The safest choice depends on the property, predicted conditions and available shelter, which is why planning with your veterinarian, municipality and local emergency officials is essential.
Before the storm:
- Clear safe drainage routes without entering unstable ditches
- Move portable equipment and supplies to higher ground
- Raise bagged feed, bedding and medications off the floor
- Relocate fuel, chemicals and pesticides away from flood risk
- Secure manure storage and waste areas
- Check culverts, lanes and alternate access points
- Move tractors and generators to secure, elevated locations
After flooding, treat standing water, submerged feed and wet bedding as potentially contaminated. Do not allow livestock to drink from floodwater. Inspect wells and water systems and follow provincial guidance before resuming use if contamination is suspected. The Government of Canada advises residents to understand their local flood risk and follow directions from emergency responders and officials. Read Canada’s flood-preparedness guidance.
Secure barns, coops and farm property
High winds can turn loose equipment into dangerous debris. Walk the property before the weather deteriorates and secure or move:
- Feeders and water tubs
- Wheelbarrows and tools
- Garbage cans and empty barrels
- Portable shelters
- Gates and livestock panels
- Patio furniture and signs
- Tarps and temporary fencing
- Trailers and small equipment
Inspect roofs, doors, windows and siding. Repair loose metal, damaged latches, and weak hinges. Store chemicals, medications and fuels in secure locations, following their handling and ventilation requirements.
Remove dead branches where it is safe to do so but leave major tree work to qualified professionals. Identify large trees that could fall across barns, fences, power lines, or evacuation routes.
Protect feed, hay, bedding and clean water
A hurricane can disrupt deliveries and electricity for several days. Maintain an emergency supply of feed, forage, bedding, and water based on the needs of your animals and the realistic length of a local outage.
Store feed in waterproof, animal-resistant containers. Keep bagged products on pallets or shelving and away from walls where moisture may enter. Inspect the hay-storage area for roof leaks, blocked drainage, and wind exposure.
Discard feed or hay that has been contaminated by floodwater, fuel, chemicals, mould or sewage. When in doubt, consult your veterinarian, feed specialist or provincial agriculture authority before feeding it.
Water planning is equally important. Calculate how much your animals require each day, including extra water for cleaning and heat. Fill approved water containers before the storm and keep buckets and tubs clean and ready.
If your farm relies on an electric well pump, establish a backup water plan. Generators must be operated outdoors and well away from doors, windows, barns and occupied spaces to prevent deadly carbon monoxide exposure. Never connect a generator to a building electrical system without approved transfer of equipment installed by a qualified electrician.
Assemble a farm emergency kit
Keep supplies in waterproof, clearly marked containers that can be loaded quickly.
A livestock and small-farm emergency kit may include:
- Halters, leads and suitable livestock ties
- Feed and water buckets
- Stable hooks and hanging hardware
- Portable fencing supplies
- Livestock identification supplies
- First-aid supplies recommended by your veterinarian
- Several days of essential medications
- Flashlights, headlamps and batteries
- Battery-powered radio
- Charged power banks
- Work gloves and rain gear
- Basic hand tools
- Fire extinguishers
- Paper farm maps and evacuation routes
- Animal records and emergency contacts
- Feed, forage, bedding and potable water
Check the kit at the beginning of hurricane season and replace expired medications, damaged equipment and dead batteries.
Build an emergency contact list
Keep printed and digital copies of contact information for:
- Your veterinarian
- Local emergency management office
- Provincial emergency alerts
- Fire department and police
- Trailer owners and livestock transporters
- Nearby farmers and trusted neighbours
- Feed and farm-supply store
- Temporary boarding locations
- Insurance provider
- Electric utility
- Fuel supplier
Assign responsibilities to family members, employees, and neighbours. Everyone should know who monitors alerts, who handles each group of animals, who prepares the trailer, and who shuts down utilities if authorities advise doing so.
Inspect animals and property after the storm
Wait for officials to confirm that it is safe before returning to an evacuated property. Watch for downed power lines, unstable buildings, sharp debris, washed-out ground and displaced wildlife.
Check animals for:
- Cuts, punctures or swelling
- Lameness
- Breathing difficulty
- Signs of stress or shock
- Dehydration
- Reduced appetite
- Diarrhea or digestive upset
- Exposure to contaminated water or feed
Contact your veterinarian if an animal is injured, behaving abnormally or may have consumed contaminated material.
Before returning livestock to a field, walk the entire fence line and inspect gates, posts, wire, water sources and footing. Photograph damage before beginning cleanup when it is safe, particularly for insurance records.
Prepare now, not when the wind begins
Atlantic Canadian farmers are accustomed to changing weather, but hurricanes and post-tropical storms can test even experienced operations. A written plan, safe evacuation route, reliable animal identification and well-maintained handling equipment can make a critical difference.
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs before severe weather arrives to prepare your farm emergency kit and stock up on available stable accessories, halters, lead ropes, buckets, hooks, livestock-handling supplies, feed and bedding.
Preparation protects more than property, it protects the animals and people who depend on your farm.

Hay Storage & Hay Quality Guide for Fall: How to Inspect, Store & Protect Your Hay for Winter in Atlantic Canada
As summer winds down, many livestock and horse owners shift their focus toward one of the most important jobs of the season—preparing hay for fall and winter.
Whether you’re feeding a few backyard sheep, a small family horse barn, or a commercial cattle operation, the quality of the hay you store this fall will directly impact the health of your animals throughout the winter months.
Atlantic Canada’s unpredictable weather brings unique challenges. Late summer humidity, hurricane season, and early fall rain can quickly turn quality hay into wasted feed if it isn’t stored correctly.
Here’s how to evaluate your hay, improve storage conditions, and ensure your livestock have a safe, nutritious feed supply all winter long.
Why Hay Quality Matters
Hay isn’t just filler—it’s often the primary source of fiber and nutrition for livestock throughout the winter.
Poor-quality hay can result in:
- Weight loss
- Reduced milk production
- Lower body condition
- Increased feed waste
- Respiratory issues from mold or dust
- Digestive problems
Taking the time to inspect your hay now can prevent costly problems later in the season.
Step 1: Evaluate Your Current Hay Supply
Before purchasing additional hay, take inventory of what you already have.
Ask yourself:
- How many bales remain?
- Are they dry and well stored?
- Has any hay become moldy or weather damaged?
- Will your current inventory last until spring?
Many producers underestimate winter feed requirements.
As a general guideline, horses and livestock consume approximately 2–3% of their body weight daily in forage, depending on species, age, workload, and production stage.
If your numbers look tight, now is the time to secure additional hay before supplies become limited.
Step 2: Check Every Bale
Not all hay is created equal.
When evaluating square or round bales, inspect for:
- Color: Good hay should remain green to light green. Excessively brown or faded hay may have lost valuable nutrients.
- Smell: Quality hay has a fresh, sweet smell.
Avoid hay that smells: Musty, Sour, Damp, Mold; These are signs moisture has entered the bale.
- Texture: Hay should feel dry and springy—not wet or slimy. Overly dusty hay can contribute to respiratory irritation, especially in horses.
- Watch for Mold: Never feed moldy hay. Mold spores may not always be visible but can seriously affect horses, cattle, goats, sheep, and other livestock.
Look for:
- White or grey fuzzy patches
- Black discoloration
- Excessive heating
- Damp pockets within round bales
When in doubt, don’t feed questionable hay.
Step 3: Inspect Your Hay Storage Area
Your barn protects more than your equipment—it protects your winter feed investment.
Late summer is the perfect time to inspect your storage before fall weather arrives.
Walk through your hay storage and check for:
- Roof leaks
- Missing shingles
- Loose metal roofing
- Soft spots in the ceiling
- Wet walls
- Broken siding
- Cracked foundations allowing water inside
Atlantic Canada often experiences tropical storms and hurricanes well into the fall.
One unnoticed roof leak can ruin dozens of bales during a single heavy rain event.
Repair these issues before your barn is full for winter.
Step 4: Make Airflow a Priority
Even perfectly dry hay needs ventilation.
Without proper airflow, moisture becomes trapped, increasing the risk of:
- Mold
- Heating
- Spoilage
- Fire hazards
For best results:
- Leave space between stacks and walls.
- Keep aisles open for air movement.
- Avoid packing bales too tightly.
- Open barn doors on dry days to improve ventilation.
- Use fans where natural airflow is limited.
- Round bales stored outside should never sit directly on the ground.
Use pallets, crushed stone, or a well-drained pad to reduce moisture absorption from below.
Step 5: Store Hay Off the Floor
Ground moisture slowly moves upward into stored hay. Even concrete floors can transfer moisture over time.
Use:
- Wooden pallets
- Landscape timbers
- Railroad ties
- Hay racks
- Keeping hay elevated improves airflow underneath while reducing spoilage.
Step 6: Rotate Older Hay First
Practice “first in, first out.”
Use older hay before newly harvested bales. This helps maintain feed quality while reducing unnecessary waste.
Mark different hay lots or harvest dates if possible, to make rotation easier throughout winter.
Step 7: Plan Before Supplies Tighten
Many Atlantic Canadian producers begin purchasing winter hay in late summer and early fall.
Waiting until the first snowfall—or after a poor second cut—can mean:
- Higher prices
- Limited selection
- Longer delivery times
- Lower-quality hay
If your inventory appears short, don’t wait until October or November to start looking. Planning ahead gives you more options and helps avoid emergency purchases later in the season.
A Few Minutes Today Can Save You All Winter
Hay is one of the biggest investments many farms make each year.
Spending an afternoon inspecting your hay, repairing storage areas, and calculating your winter feed requirements can prevent unnecessary waste and help keep your animals healthy throughout the colder months.
Whether you’re feeding two backyard goats or managing a barn full of horses, proper hay storage is one of the simplest ways to protect both your animals and your investment.
At Feeds’n Needs, we’re here to help you prepare for the season ahead with quality livestock feeds, horse nutrition, minerals, bedding, feeders, and the supplies you need for a successful fall and winter.
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs store and let our team help you get ready before winter arrives.


Trailer Safety for Horses & Livestock in Atlantic Canada
Your Complete Summer Hauling Checklist
Whether you’re heading to a weekend horse show, moving cattle between pastures, transporting sheep to market, or hauling goats to the county fair, trailer safety should always come first.
Summer is one of the busiest hauling seasons across Atlantic Canada—but it’s also one of the toughest on both animals and equipment. High humidity, hot pavement, stop-and-go traffic, and long ferry or highway trips can quickly create stressful conditions inside a trailer.
A few minutes spent inspecting your trailer before every trip can prevent breakdowns, injuries, and unnecessary stress for your animals.
Here’s everything you should check before hitting the road.
Why Summer Hauling Requires Extra Attention
Unlike people, horses and livestock have limited ways to cool themselves during transport.Inside a parked or slow-moving trailer, temperatures can rise rapidly—even on what feels like a comfortable Maritime summer day. Add humidity, poor airflow, and direct sunlight, and animals can become overheated much faster than expected.
Atlantic Canadian haulers also face:
- High humidity
- Sudden rain showers
- Rough secondary roads
- Long distances between rural communities
- Ferry crossings
- Construction delays during peak summer
Planning ahead keeps both your trailer and your animals safer.
Trailer Inspection Checklist
Before every trip, walk completely around your trailer.
Tires Check:
- Tire pressure (including the spare)
- Uneven wear
- Sidewall cracks
- Tread depth
Remember that trailer tires often age out before they wear out. Tires over five to six years old should be inspected carefully regardless of tread.
Wheel Bearings
Wheel bearings should be serviced regularly according to your trailer manufacturer’s recommendations.
Signs of trouble include:
- Excessive heat
- Grinding noises
- Grease leaking around hubs
- Vibration while towing
A failed bearing can leave you stranded—and put your animals at risk.
Lights & Electrical
Always test:
- Brake lights
- Turn signals
- Running lights
- Trailer brakes
- Breakaway battery
Don’t assume they worked last trip.
Hitch & Coupler
Double-check:
- Hitch ball size
- Coupler latch locked
- Safety pin installed
- Safety chains crossed underneath
- Breakaway cable attached properly
Never wrap the breakaway cable around your safety chains.
Trailer Floor
One of the most overlooked safety items.
Inspect for:
- Rotting wood
- Rust
- Loose boards
- Soft spots
- Broken welds
Lift rubber mats regularly to inspect underneath.
Doors & Ramps
Make sure:
- Hinges move freely
- Latches lock securely
- Springs function properly
- Escape doors open easily
A sticky ramp becomes much harder—and more dangerous—when loading an anxious horse.
Keep Animals Cool During Summer Transport
Heat stress is one of the biggest concerns during summer hauling.
Before You Leave
- Haul during early morning or evening whenever possible.
- Offer plenty of fresh water.
- Avoid feeding large grain meals immediately before travel.
- Ensure good trailer ventilation.
During the Trip
For longer hauls:
- Stop every few hours to check animals.
- Offer water whenever safe to do so.
- Watch for heavy sweating or rapid breathing.
- Keep air moving by avoiding unnecessary stops.
Never leave animals standing inside a closed trailer while parked in direct sunlight.
Signs of Heat Stress
Watch for:
- Excessive sweating
- Rapid breathing
- Elevated heart rate
- Lethargy
- Drooping head
- Reluctance to unload
- Stumbling
- Refusing water
If an animal appears overheated, stop in a safe location immediately and contact your veterinarian if symptoms do not improve.
Secure Animals Properly
Improper tying causes many preventable injuries.
Use:
- Quality trailer ties
- Breakaway halters or breakaway tie systems for horses
- Proper livestock gates and dividers
- Non-slip trailer flooring
Avoid tying animals too short or leaving excessive slack that could allow legs or heads to become entangled.
Don’t Forget Your Emergency Kit
Every trailer should carry a basic emergency kit.
Include:
- First aid supplies
- Extra lead ropes
- Spare halter
- Trailer ties
- Knife for emergency cutting
- Flashlight
- Reflective vest
- Tire pressure gauge
- Basic hand tools
- Gloves
- Zip ties
- Electrical tape
Hauling Water Is Just as Important
Many horses refuse unfamiliar water at competitions.
Bring water from home whenever possible, especially for:
- Horse shows
- Clinics
- Overnight events
- Long-distance travel
Portable buckets make watering easier at rest stops and destinations.
Trailer Cleaning Matters Too
After each trip:
- Remove manure and bedding.
- Sweep out dust and debris.
- Wash urine from floors.
- Check for loose hardware.
- Allow the trailer to dry before storing.
Clean trailers reduce odors, improve footing, and help prevent disease transmission between animals.
Essential Trailer Gear Available at Feeds’n Needs
Before your next trip, make sure your trailer is stocked with the essentials.
Products you’ll find at Feeds’n Needs include:
Trailer & Hauling Essentials
- Trailer ties
- Lead ropes
- Snap hooks
- Quick links
- Tie rings
- Breakaway hardware
- Trailer accessories
- Utility knives
- Ratchet straps
- Bungee cords
- Work gloves
Watering Supplies
- Portable water buckets
- Rubber feed tubs
- Stall buckets
- Bucket hooks
- Water containers
Barn & Travel Supplies
- First aid products
- Fly control products
- Electrolytes for horses
- Grooming supplies
- Stable forks and cleaning tools
Our team can also help you choose the right equipment for horses, cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, poultry, and other livestock travelling throughout Atlantic Canada.
Final Checklist Before You Pull Out
✔ Tires checked
✔ Lights working
✔ Hitch secured
✔ Breakaway cable attached
✔ Trailer brakes tested
✔ Floor inspected
✔ Animals tied safely
✔ Water packed
✔ Emergency kit onboard
✔ Weather forecast checked
✔ Route planned
Safe Trips Start Before the Trailer Moves
Whether you’re hauling one horse to a local gymkhana, transporting cattle between pastures, or taking livestock to an exhibition, preparation makes all the difference.
Atlantic Canada’s summer weather can change quickly, but a well-maintained trailer, properly secured animals, and the right equipment help every trip go more smoothly.
Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs before your next haul. Our knowledgeable team can help you stock up on trailer accessories, hydration supplies, barn essentials, and livestock care products so you and your animals are ready for every mile ahead.


Horse Flea & Tick Prevention in Atlantic Canada
Protect Your Horse at Home, on the Trail & at Horse Shows
Practical Tips to Keep Your Horse Comfortable All Season Long
Warmer weather means more time in the saddle—but it also brings one of the biggest challenges for horse owners across Atlantic Canada: flea, tick, and insect season.
Whether your horse spends the summer grazing at home, competing on the show circuit, trail riding through wooded areas, or travelling to clinics and events, protecting them from parasites should be part of your regular management routine.
While ticks receive much attention due to their ability to spread disease, other biting insects can also cause irritation, stress, skin infections, and reduced comfort. Fortunately, a proactive prevention plan can help keep your horse healthy and comfortable all season long.
At Feeds’n Needs, we carry a wide selection of equine fly sprays, fly masks, fly sheets, grooming supplies, barn insect control products, and pasture essentials to help horse owners stay ahead of the season.
Why Flea & Tick Prevention Matters
Although fleas are uncommon in healthy adult horses, they can occasionally become an issue in barns where horses share space with dogs, cats, or other livestock. Ticks, however, are becoming increasingly common throughout Atlantic Canada and are regularly found on horses grazing near wooded areas or travelling to shows and trail systems.
Ticks commonly attach around:
- Under the mane
- Between the hind legs
- Around the tail head
- Under the jaw
- Inside the ears
- Between the front legs
- Along the chest and shoulders
A quick daily inspection often catches ticks before they become a bigger problem.
Signs Your Horse May Have Parasites
Watch for:
- Excessive rubbing or scratching
- Hair loss
- Skin irritation
- Scabs or sores
- Swelling around tick attachment sites
- Tail rubbing
- Unexplained sensitivity while grooming
Early detection makes treatment much easier.
Build a Daily Prevention Routine
The best parasite control starts with consistency.
Groom Every Day: Regular grooming isn’t just about keeping your horse looking their best.
Use curry combs and brushes to:
- Check for attached ticks
- Remove dirt and loose hair
- Spot cuts or irritated skin early
- Detect unusual swelling
Pay special attention after rides through wooded trails or long grass.
Use Fly Spray Consistently
Don’t wait until the insects are unbearable.
Apply an equine-approved fly spray before:
- Turnout
- Trail rides
- Lessons
- Horse shows
- Clinics
- Camping trips
Reapply according to label directions, especially after heavy sweating or bathing.
Feeds’n Needs carries trusted fly sprays designed to help repel flies, mosquitoes, ticks, and other biting insects throughout the summer.
Dress for Protection
During peak insect activity, consider adding:
- Fly masks
- Fly sheets
- Fly boots
- Ear covers
These products help reduce bites while allowing your horse to stay comfortable in turnout.
Pasture Management Makes a Difference
Many horse owners focus only on treating the horse—but reducing insect habitat is just as important.
Keep Grass Managed: Ticks thrive in tall grass and brush.
Regular mowing around:
- Gates
- Fence lines
- Water troughs
- Riding rings
- Laneways
…helps reduce hiding places.
Rotate Pastures
Pasture rotation benefits more than grass health.
Moving horses between paddocks:
- Reduces parasite pressure
- Prevents overgrazing
- Encourages healthier forage
- Helps break insect life cycles
Healthy pasture equals healthier horses.
Eliminate Standing Water
Mosquitoes breed quickly in standing water.
Check regularly for:
- Buckets
- Old tires
- Wheelbarrows
- Water trough overflow
- Low wet areas
Dump or drain water whenever possible.
Stable Tips for Reducing Pests
A clean barn naturally discourages insects.
Focus on:
- Picking stalls daily
- Removing manure frequently
- Replacing wet bedding
- Improving airflow
- Keeping feed rooms clean
- Repairing broken screens and doors
- Controlling rodents
Cleaner barns mean fewer insects looking for places to breed.
Don’t Forget Your Horse Trailer
Horse trailers can easily become overlooked hiding places for insects.
Between shows and events:
- Remove all used bedding
- Sweep thoroughly
- Wash floors regularly
- Allow the trailer to dry completely
- Leave vents open during storage when possible
- Store with clean rubber mats
- Inspect corners for insects or rodents
Keeping your trailer clean reduces unwanted hitchhikers before your next trip.
Horse Shows & Clinics: Extra Prevention Tips
Travelling exposes your horse to new environments and new insect populations.
Before leaving home:
- Pack fly spray
- Bring an extra fly mask
- Clean grooming equipment
- Bring fresh water buckets
- Pack disinfectant spray
- Wash saddle pads between shows
- Inspect your horse before loading and after unloading
When stabling overnight:
- Remove manure often
- Avoid leaving feed exposed
- Keep stalls dry
- Close feed containers securely
- Check your horse morning and evening for ticks
A little extra attention during busy weekends can prevent problems later.
Products You’ll Find at Feeds’n Needs
Preparing for insect season starts with the right supplies.
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs for:
- Fly & Tick Prevention
- Equine fly sprays
- Fly repellents
- Fly masks
- Fly sheets
- Fly boots
- Stable Essentials
- Stall bedding
- Stall deodorizers
- Barn insect sprays
- Fly traps
- Manure forks
- Grooming supplies
- Pasture & Farm Supplies
- Fence repair products
- Grass seed
- Lawn and pasture maintenance products
- Water buckets
- Mineral and salt products
Our knowledgeable staff can help you choose products suited to your horse’s workload, turnout schedule, and living environment.
A Comfortable Horse Is a Happier Horse
Keeping insects under control isn’t just about comfort—it supports your horse’s overall health, performance, and well-being.
Whether you’re preparing for weekend horse shows, heading out on the trails, or simply enjoying evenings at the barn, a little prevention goes a long way.
With regular grooming, smart pasture management, clean stalls, trailer maintenance, and the right equine products, you can help your horse stay comfortable all summer long.
Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs location for everything you need to tackle fly, flea, and tick season. Our team is always happy to help you find the right products for your horse and your farm.

Prepare for Blackfly & Mosquito Season
As temperatures rise across Atlantic Canada, so do blackflies and mosquitoes. While they’re a nuisance for people, they can also cause stress and discomfort for horses, livestock, pets, and backyard flocks. A little preparation now can make the season much more enjoyable.
Protect Yourself
Whether you’re working in the barn, gardening, or heading out on the trail, insect repellent is your first line of defense. Wear lightweight long sleeves and pants during peak activity (dawn and dusk), and keep an after-bite treatment on hand to help soothe itching and irritation if bites do happen.
Keep Horses Comfortable
Flies and mosquitoes can lead to tail swishing, stomping, reduced grazing, and unnecessary stress. Help protect your horse with:
- Fly sprays and roll-ons
- Fly masks and fly sheets
- Fly traps and bait systems
- Stall fans to discourage flying insects
- Regular manure removal to reduce breeding areas
Protect Pets
Dogs and cats enjoy being outdoors too, but insect bites can leave them itchy and uncomfortable. Keep pets protected with veterinarian-recommended flea and tick products, outdoor insect repellents where appropriate, and check them regularly after spending time outside.
Support Your Livestock
Cattle, sheep, goats, poultry, and other livestock are also affected by biting insects. We carry products including:
- Livestock fly sprays
- Premise and barn insecticides
- Fly traps and bait
- Livestock insect control products
- Poultry-safe insect control options
Reducing standing water around your property and keeping feeding areas clean can significantly decrease mosquito populations.
Barn Tips to Reduce Flies
A few simple management practices go a long way:
- Remove manure frequently.
- Keep bedding clean and dry.
- Eliminate standing water around the barn and paddocks.
- Improve airflow with fans.
- Install fly traps away from animal areas to draw insects away.
- Clean feed spills promptly to avoid attracting pests.
Don’t Forget Bite Relief
Even with prevention, bites happen. Stock your first aid kit with after-bite treatments to help relieve itching and irritation for the whole family.
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs store for everything you need to stay ahead of blackfly and mosquito season—from personal insect repellents to fly control solutions for your pets, horses, and livestock.


Barnyard Bite Prevention
Flea & Tick Control for Livestock in Atlantic Canada
Protecting Cattle, Sheep, Goats & Pigs from Seasonal Parasites
When warmer weather arrives in Atlantic Canada, livestock owners know that pest season is never far behind. While flies often get most of the attention on the farm, fleas and ticks can also create problems for cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs — especially on farms with wooded pasture, tall grass, brush lines, damp bedding, or mixed animal housing.
Flea and tick prevention for livestock is an important part of seasonal animal health. These small pests can cause skin irritation, scratching, hair loss, discomfort, reduced weight gain, and stress on your animals. Ticks may also carry disease, making regular prevention and inspection an important habit for farms across Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland.
At Feeds’n Needs, we carry livestock pest control products, barn insect sprays, fly traps, bedding, dust bath supplies, and animal health essentials to help keep your herd, flock, and barn protected through flea, tick, and fly season.
Which Animals Are Most at Risk?
Every farm is different, but these animals commonly encounter ticks in Atlantic Canada:
- Cattle grazing wooded fence lines or rough pasture
- Goats that browse brush and shrubs
- Sheep in long pasture or bushy paddocks
- Outdoor pigs rooting in wooded or grassy areas
Peak tick activity typically occurs through spring and early summer, with another increase during the fall, although ticks can remain active whenever temperatures stay mild.
Signs Your Livestock May Have Fleas or Ticks
Keep an eye out for:
- Excessive scratching or rubbing
- Hair loss or damaged coats
- Scabs or irritated skin
- Visible ticks attached around the ears, neck, brisket, udder, tail, or under the legs.
- Restlessness while grazing
- Poor weight gain or reduced productivity in heavy infestations
Checking animals during routine handling is one of the easiest ways to catch problems before they become severe.
Prevention Starts in the Pasture
The best flea and tick control is best combined with good management and the right animal health products.
Rotate Pastures: Rotational grazing helps reduce the time livestock spend in heavily infested areas while improving pasture health.
Mow High-Traffic Areas: Keeping grass shorter around gates, waterers, laneways, and handling facilities reduces places where ticks like to wait for passing animals.
Trim Brush Along Fence Lines: Ticks thrive in damp, shaded vegetation. Clearing back brush and overgrown edges reduces ideal habitat.
Inspect New Animals: Before introducing new livestock into the herd or flock, give them a thorough health check to help prevent bringing unwanted parasites onto the farm.
Integrated pest management—combining pasture management, monitoring, and appropriate treatments—is considered the most effective long-term approach for controlling livestock pests while reducing reliance on pesticides alone.
Barn Tips That Make a Difference
Many parasites spend part of their life cycle away from the animal, making barn hygiene just as important as treating livestock.
A few simple habits can help:
- Replace wet or heavily soiled bedding regularly.
- Remove manure frequently to discourage insect breeding.
- Improve ventilation to reduce damp conditions.
- Keep feed storage areas clean to discourage rodents and wildlife.
- Seal cracks and repair damaged walls where pests can hide.
- Clean pens thoroughly between groups of animals.
A clean barn is one of the easiest ways to reduce parasite pressure throughout the season.
Products Available at Feeds’n Needs
Every farm has different needs, so choosing the right product depends on the species, age, and management system.
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs for products such as:
- Livestock fly and tick control products
- Pour-on insecticide treatments*
- Premise and barn insect sprays
- Fly traps and sticky traps
- Livestock dust bags and applicators
- Mineral supplements to support overall health
- Bedding products that help keep housing clean and dry
Our knowledgeable staff can help you choose products that are labelled for your specific livestock species and explain proper application and withdrawal requirements.
*Always read and follow the product label before use. Use only products approved for the species you are treating and observe all meat and milk withdrawal periods where applicable.
Don’t Forget Daily Herd Checks
During tick season, a quick visual inspection while feeding or moving livestock can save time and money later.
Pay special attention to:
- Around the ears
- Under the jaw
- Between the legs
- Tail head
- Udder or sheath
- Neck and shoulders
Removing attached ticks early and treating infestations promptly helps reduce stress on your animals and limits further spread.
We’re Here to Help
Whether you raise a few backyard goats or manage a commercial beef herd, preventing fleas and ticks is far easier than dealing with a heavy infestation later in the season.
Stop by your nearest Feeds’n Needs location for advice on livestock parasite control, barn management products, and seasonal animal health supplies. Our team is here to help keep your animals healthy, comfortable, and productive all summer long.


Summer is when we want our lawns to look their best — green, thick, and ready for backyard barbecues, kids, and pets. But in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and PEI, summer also brings dry stretches, heat stress, weeds, insects, and heavy foot traffic.
Cool-season grasses like Kentucky Bluegrass, Fine Fescue, and Perennial Ryegrass thrive in cooler weather, so they naturally slow down during hot, dry periods. The goal in summer is to reduce stress on your lawn and support strong roots so it bounces back when cooler weather returns.
1. Water Deeply and Early
Light daily watering encourages shallow roots. Instead, water deeply and less frequently — this pushes roots deeper into the soil, making your lawn more drought-resilient.
Best practice: Water early in the morning so the grass absorbs moisture before peak heat. Avoid evening watering during humid weather, as wet overnight grass is more prone to fungal disease.
Tip: If your lawn looks blue-green or dull, or your footprints stay visible after walking across it, your grass is showing drought stress. Water before fertilizing.
Note on watering bylaws: Many Maritime municipalities have seasonal outdoor watering restrictions. Check your local municipality’s rules before setting up a regular watering schedule.
2. Mow High All Summer
Cutting too short exposes soil, dries out roots, and opens the door for weeds. Taller grass shades the soil and holds moisture better.
Summer mowing guidelines:
- Keep grass 2.5 to 3 inches high
- Never remove more than one-third of the blade at once
- Keep blades sharp — dull blades tear grass and stress it further
- Leave clippings on the lawn to return nutrients to the soil
- Avoid mowing dormant or very dry grass until it has moisture and is actively growing
3. Fertilize Carefully — Timing Is Everything
21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer is the right choice for established Maritime lawns that need steady feeding and a greener colour. But timing matters more than product.
Apply when:
- Grass is actively growing
- The lawn has adequate moisture
- Temperatures are moderate
Avoid fertilizing during:
- Drought or extreme heat
- Periods when the lawn is brown or dormant
Tip: A stressed, dry lawn cannot absorb nutrients properly. Fertilizing during drought can burn your grass. Water first, then wait for recovery before feeding.
4. Watch for Lawn Disease
Maritime summers — humid, warm, with occasional cool nights — create ideal conditions for common turf diseases:
- Red Thread: Pinkish-red threads visible on grass blades; thrives in cool, wet conditions. Common in PEI and coastal Nova Scotia.
- Dollar Spot: Small, silver-dollar-sized brown patches; caused by dry conditions and low nitrogen.
Prevention: Avoid evening watering, mow regularly, don’t over- or under-fertilize, and ensure good drainage. If disease spreads, consult your local Feeds’n Needs for treatment options.
5. Identify and Manage Grubs
White grubs (European Chafer and Japanese Beetle larvae) feed on grass roots through summer and are a growing problem in the Maritimes. Signs include:
- Irregular brown patches that don’t respond to watering
- Spongy turf that lifts easily like a carpet
- Increased crow, starling, or skunk activity digging at your lawn
If you suspect grubs, pull back a patch of turf and check the soil. More than five grubs per square foot generally warrants treatment. Ask your local Feeds’n Needs team for current product options available in your province.
6. Control Weeds with a Healthy Lawn
Weeds move into thin, stressed, or compacted lawns. Dandelions, clover, and crabgrass are common in Maritime summers, especially where grass is weak.
The best weed control is a thick, healthy lawn. Support it by:
- Mowing high
- Overseeding thin areas
- Watering during dry periods
- Feeding established lawns at the right time
- Repairing bare spots quickly
For more, read: Effective Weed Control: Essentials for Your Lawn
7. Protect Your Lawn from Pet Damage
Dogs are hard on summer lawns. Urine spots, worn paths, and compacted areas from repeated use are common complaints.
To reduce pet damage:
- Rinse urine spots with water as soon as possible
- Consider a designated pet area with mulch or gravel
- Reseed damaged spots when conditions allow
- Keep pets off newly seeded areas until grass is established
Read more: Tips to Safeguard Your Lawn from Pet Damage
8. Repair Bare Spots — Or Wait Until Fall
Summer seeding is possible but challenging. Heat and dry conditions make consistent moisture critical for germination.
For small summer repairs:
- Rake away dead grass and loosen the soil
- Add a thin layer of quality lawn soil if needed
- Apply Triple Mix Lawn Seed or Premium Lawn Mix
- Lightly rake seed into soil
- Water lightly and frequently until established
- Keep foot traffic off the area
If conditions are very hot and dry, late summer or early fall will give you significantly better results.
9. Choose the Right Seed for the Job
| Seed | Best For |
|---|---|
| Triple Mix Lawn Seed | General repair, overseeding, pet damage, everyday bare spots |
| Premium Lawn Mix | Front yards, play areas, high-visibility or finished lawn spaces |
| Highway Mix | Ditches, slopes, driveway edges, rural or low-maintenance areas |
10. Consider Lime If Your Soil Is Acidic
Maritime soils tend to be acidic, and summer is a good time to think about soil pH. Lime helps neutralize acidic soil so your lawn can actually absorb the nutrients you’re applying.
If your lawn looks pale despite regular feeding, or fertilizer doesn’t seem to be working, low soil pH may be the issue. A simple soil test can confirm this. Ask at your local Feeds’n Needs — our team can help you test and recommend the right lime application rate.
Plan Ahead: Fall Is the Best Time to Recover
If your lawn struggled this summer, don’t worry. Fall is the best season for overseeding, aeration, lime application, and fertilizing cool-season grasses. Late summer and early fall give your lawn a chance to repair before winter.
Read more: Fall Lawn Care Tips
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I water my lawn in summer in the Maritimes?
Water deeply two to three times per week rather than lightly every day. Early morning is best to reduce evaporation and disease risk.
Should I fertilize my lawn in summer?
Yes, but only when your lawn is actively growing and not under heat or drought stress. Use 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer for established lawns.
How do I tell if my lawn is dormant or dead?
Dormant grass is tan or straw-coloured but the crowns (just above soil level) remain firm and white-green. Dead grass has dry, brittle crowns. Pull a small plug — if the crown snaps rather than bends, the grass may be dead and need reseeding.
What height should I mow my lawn in summer?
Keep grass at 2.5 to 3 inches. Taller grass shades the soil, reduces moisture loss, and competes better against weeds.
Why is my lawn turning brown in summer?
Brown patches may result from drought dormancy, pet urine, grub damage, fungal disease, compacted soil, or mowing too short. Water first and assess whether the pattern suggests insects, disease, or drought stress.
What lawn seed is best for summer repairs in Atlantic Canada?
Triple Mix Lawn Seed is a reliable all-purpose option. Use Premium Lawn Mix for front yards or finished spaces where appearance matters most.
How do I know if I have grubs in my lawn?
Look for irregular brown patches that don’t green up after rain, spongy turf, or digging by birds and wildlife. Pull back a section of turf and check for white C-shaped larvae in the soil.
Does my lawn need lime?
Maritime soils are often acidic. If your lawn doesn’t respond well to fertilizer, a soil test may reveal low pH. Lime corrects this and improves nutrient uptake.
Recommended Products for Maritime Summer Lawn Care
- 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer – Steady feeding and greener colour for established lawns
- Triple Mix Lawn Seed – All-purpose bare spot and general repair seed
- Premium Lawn Mix – Thick, attractive results for residential and high-visibility lawns
- Highway Mix – Durable ground cover for slopes, ditches, and low-maintenance areas
- Lime – Corrects acidic Maritime soil so nutrients are actually absorbed
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, or PEI for expert advice and the right products for your yard.


Maritime Spring Lawn Care: Repair, Seed, Fertilize, and Grow a Greener Lawn
After a long Maritime winter, it’s normal for your lawn to look rough. Snow mold, salt damage, ice, matted grass, bare spots, and compacted soil are all common sights across Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and PEI come spring. The encouraging news is that cool-season grasses are remarkably resilient — with the right timing and approach, most lawns recover quickly and grow back stronger than before.
Maritime lawns are typically made up of cool-season grasses — Kentucky Bluegrass, Fine Fescue, and Perennial Ryegrass — which grow best during the cooler, moister parts of spring and fall. These grasses respond well to spring care when conditions are right, but getting the timing wrong — especially starting too early on wet soil — can do more harm than good.
This guide walks you through every step of Maritime spring lawn care, from the first cleanup after snowmelt to fertilizing, seeding, liming, and preparing for a healthy summer.
Key Takeaways
- Wait until the ground firms up before raking, aerating, or heavy foot traffic — wet soil compacts easily and damages emerging roots
- Identify snow mold and salt damage before starting any repair work
- Use 17-17-17 fertilizer for new lawns, overseeding, and bare spot repair
- Use 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer for established lawns needing steady green-up
- Use Triple Mix Lawn Seed for general repair and overseeding
- Use Premium Lawn Mix for front yards and high-visibility finished lawn areas
- Use Highway Mix for slopes, ditches, and low-maintenance spaces
- Lime if your soil is acidic — this is very common across Maritime soils and often overlooked
- A sharp mower blade and a high first cut set the tone for the entire growing season
1. Don’t Start Too Early — Timing Is Everything in the Maritimes
The most common spring lawn care mistake in Atlantic Canada is starting too soon. After a long winter, the urge to get outside and work on the lawn is understandable — but working on wet, saturated soil causes compaction, damages the crowns of emerging grass plants, and can set your lawn back weeks.
The simple test: Walk across your lawn. If your footprints remain visible and the ground feels spongy underfoot, it’s too early. Wait until the surface firms up and drains before doing any raking, aerating, or seeding.
In most of the Maritimes, the right window to begin spring lawn care typically opens in late April to mid-May, depending on your location, elevation, and how severe the winter was. Lawns in sheltered inland areas may be ready earlier than those in coastal or low-lying spots that hold moisture longer.
Patience at this stage pays dividends throughout the entire season.
2. Assess Winter Damage Before Doing Anything Else
Once the ground firms up, do a thorough walk of your lawn before reaching for any product. Identifying what you’re dealing with helps you prioritize your work and choose the right approach.
Snow Mold
Snow mold is one of the most common spring lawn problems across PEI, coastal Nova Scotia, and areas of New Brunswick that experience deep, prolonged snow cover. It appears as circular, matted patches — typically grayish-white or pinkish — after the snow melts. The fungal growth develops under the snowpack over winter, where conditions are cold, dark, and moist.
What to do: Don’t panic — most lawns recover from snow mold on their own once air circulation is restored. Lightly rake affected patches to break up the matted grass and allow airflow. Avoid heavy raking that pulls out grass crowns. Monitor the area over the following two to three weeks. If patches remain bare and grass crowns feel dry and brittle rather than firm and slightly flexible, those areas will need reseeding.
Prevention going forward: Avoid leaving heavy leaf cover or debris on the lawn going into fall, as this creates ideal conditions for snow mold development under the snowpack.
Salt Damage
If your lawn borders a driveway, sidewalk, road, or parking area, there’s a good chance some edges show brown or dead strips in spring. Road salt and ice melt products draw moisture out of grass tissue and can raise soil sodium levels enough to prevent healthy growth.
What to do: Flush affected areas generously with water to dilute and push the salt through the soil profile. Do this a few times over the course of a week if damage is significant. Once you’ve flushed the area and the grass has had a chance to respond, rake out any dead material and reseed bare sections. For areas that repeatedly experience salt damage year after year, consider a more salt-tolerant ground cover along those edges, or a physical barrier like edging or mulch to protect the lawn from direct salt contact.
Matted and Compacted Areas
Heavy snow, ice sheets, and winter foot traffic press down on grass plants and compact the soil below. You’ll often notice this as areas where the grass looks flat, grey, or slow to green up compared to the rest of the lawn.
What to do: Gentle raking lifts matted grass and restores airflow to the soil surface. Severely compacted areas — particularly high-traffic zones like pathways across the lawn, areas near gates, or spots where vehicles have parked — may benefit from core aeration once the ground is firm enough to handle it.
Bare and Thin Patches
Bare spots from winter pet damage, heavy foot traffic, ice scraping, or simple winter kill will be visible early in spring. Note their location and size — this helps you plan how much seed and soil amendment you’ll need before your first trip to Feeds’n Needs.
3. Your First Mow of the Season Sets the Tone
Many homeowners underestimate how important the first mow of spring is. Cut too early, too short, or with a dull blade and you stress a lawn that’s already working hard to recover.
Wait until grass is actively growing and at least 3 inches tall before the first cut. Mowing too early removes leaf tissue the plant needs for photosynthesis and energy while it’s still establishing itself after winter.
First mow guidelines:
- Set your cutting height to 2.5 to 3 inches — this is your target height for the entire spring and summer
- Never remove more than one-third of the blade in a single mowing — removing too much at once stresses the plant significantly
- Check and sharpen your mower blades before the first cut of the season — dull blades tear and fray grass rather than cutting cleanly, leaving the lawn vulnerable to disease and moisture loss
- Leave clippings on the lawn when possible — they break down quickly and return nitrogen and organic matter to the soil
- Avoid mowing when the lawn is wet or the soil is still soft enough to show ruts from the mower wheels
Going into summer with a consistently high mowing habit — established right from that first spring cut — is one of the most effective things you can do for long-term lawn health.
4. New Lawn vs. Established Lawn: Two Different Approaches
Understanding which category your lawn falls into helps you choose the right products and sequence of steps.
Starting a New Lawn or Repairing Large Bare Areas
When you’re establishing grass from scratch or repairing areas larger than a few square feet, the focus is on creating the best possible environment for seed germination and early root development.
- Loosen the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches — compacted soil makes it very difficult for new roots to establish
- Add quality lawn soil or compost if the existing soil is poor, heavily compacted, or lacks organic matter — good seed-to-soil contact is essential for germination
- Choose the right seed for the area (see seed selection guide below)
- Apply seed at the recommended rate — more is not always better; overcrowded seedlings compete with each other and can lead to thin, weak grass
- Lightly rake seed into the top quarter-inch of soil — seed sitting on top of the surface is vulnerable to drying out, washing away, and being eaten by birds
- Apply 17-17-17 fertilizer according to label directions — the balanced NPK ratio supports both early top growth and the root development that new seedlings need most
- Water lightly and frequently to keep the seed bed consistently moist until germination — typically one to two times per day in dry conditions, less in cool or wet weather
- Stay off the area until new grass is at least 2 to 3 inches tall and has been mowed at least once — foot traffic on new seedlings causes significant damage
Maintaining an Established Lawn
For lawns that already have grass growing but need spring refreshing, repair, and strengthening:
- Rake lightly to remove winter debris and lift matted grass — check for thatch at the same time
- Address thatch if the layer is thicker than half an inch — thatch is a buildup of dead organic material between the soil surface and the green grass blades that can block water, air, and nutrients from reaching roots
- Patch bare spots with appropriate seed (see below)
- Test and lime if soil pH is a concern — very common in Maritime soils
- Aerate compacted areas once the ground is firm enough
- Apply 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer once grass is clearly actively growing — not too early, and not when the ground is still cold
- Mow high from the very first cut and maintain that height through the season
5. Choose the Right Lawn Seed for Each Area
Not all lawn areas are the same, and choosing the right seed for each situation saves time, money, and frustration.
| Seed | Best For |
|---|---|
| Triple Mix Lawn Seed | General repair, overseeding, bare patches, everyday residential lawn touch-ups |
| Premium Lawn Mix | Front yards, family play areas, high-visibility and finished lawn spaces, mixed sun and shade |
| Highway Mix | Slopes, ditches, driveway edges, rural properties, utility and low-maintenance areas |
A closer look at Premium Lawn Mix: Quality premium blends for Maritime lawns typically combine Kentucky Bluegrass for dense, attractive turf; Perennial Ryegrass for fast germination and quick establishment; and Fine Fescue for shade tolerance and lower-maintenance performance. This combination makes Premium Lawn Mix well-suited to the range of conditions found in a typical Maritime residential yard — including areas with partial shade, some foot traffic, and variable soil moisture.
Overseeding tip for established lawns: When overseeding thin areas in an established lawn, mow the existing grass slightly shorter than usual before applying seed — this improves seed-to-soil contact and reduces competition from existing grass during the germination period. Return to your normal high mowing height once the new seed is established.
Tip: Use Premium Lawn Mix where appearance matters most, Triple Mix for everyday repair and overseeding, and Highway Mix for practical ground cover in tough or low-maintenance spots.
6. Choose the Right Fertilizer — and Understand Why It Matters
The three numbers on any fertilizer bag represent the percentage of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in the product. Understanding what each does helps you choose the right product for your situation.
- Nitrogen (N) drives green, leafy top growth — the lush colour people associate with a healthy lawn
- Phosphorus (P) supports root development, establishment, and energy transfer within the plant — particularly important for seedlings and recovering lawns
- Potassium (K) strengthens the plant’s ability to handle stress from drought, disease, temperature extremes, and heavy use
17-17-17 Balanced Fertilizer — For New Lawns and Repair
Equal amounts of all three nutrients make 17-17-17 the right choice when your lawn needs comprehensive support — not just green colour, but strong roots and stress resilience at the same time. This is the fertilizer to reach for whenever you’re establishing new grass or repairing areas that have been significantly damaged.
Use 17-17-17 when:
- Starting a new lawn from seed
- Overseeding bare or thin patches
- Repairing winter damage, snow mold patches, or salt-affected areas
- Giving a tired, pale established lawn a full nutritional reset in early spring
- You want to support both root development and top growth simultaneously
21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer — For Established Lawns
The higher nitrogen ratio combined with a slow-release format makes 21-7-7 the right choice for established lawns that are already growing and need sustained colour and vigour without the risk of nutrient spikes or burning. Slow release fertilizers feed gradually over an extended period, meaning fewer applications and more consistent results.
Use 21-7-7 Slow Release when:
- Your lawn is established and actively growing
- You want sustained green colour through the spring and into early summer
- You’re maintaining the lawn rather than starting or repairing it
- Conditions are not too cold, hot, or dry — fertilizer is most effective when grass is actively growing and soil has adequate moisture
Simple rule: Seeding or repairing? Use 17-17-17. Maintaining an established lawn? Use 21-7-7 Slow Release.
7. Lime: The Most Overlooked Step in Maritime Lawn Care
If there’s one aspect of spring lawn care that Maritime homeowners consistently overlook, it’s soil pH. Maritime soils are naturally acidic — a result of the region’s geology, rainfall patterns, and organic matter composition. When soil pH falls too low, grass cannot effectively absorb nutrients from the soil, even if you’re fertilizing regularly. This is why some lawns remain pale and thin despite consistent care.
Lime is not a fertilizer. It’s a soil amendment that raises pH and unlocks the nutrients already present in your soil so your grass can actually use them.
Signs your lawn may need lime:
- Moss spreading across the lawn — moss thrives in acidic, compacted, or shaded soil and often signals a pH problem
- Pale, yellowish, or persistently thin grass despite regular feeding
- Fertilizer doesn’t seem to be making a visible difference
- A soil test showing pH below 6.0 — cool-season grasses perform best between 6.0 and 7.0
About moss: Lime alone won’t permanently eliminate moss. Moss grows where the conditions favour it — acidic soil, shade, poor drainage, or compaction. To effectively address moss, you need to correct the underlying conditions: rake out existing moss, test and lime if pH is low, improve drainage or airflow if possible, aerate compacted areas, and overseed to encourage healthy grass to fill in. Dense, healthy grass is the most effective long-term defence against moss.
Spring and fall are both good times to apply lime. Fall applications are particularly effective in the Maritimes because rain and snowmelt gradually move lime down into the soil profile over the winter months.
Not sure about your soil pH? Ask at your local Feeds’n Needs — our team can point you in the right direction for soil testing in your area.
8. Aerate to Relieve Compaction and Improve Soil Health
Core aeration — removing small plugs of soil across the lawn — is one of the most effective things you can do for a compacted Maritime lawn. It opens up channels that allow air, water, lime, and fertilizer to penetrate deeper into the root zone rather than sitting on the surface or running off.
Spring aeration is particularly valuable after a winter with heavy snow loads, ice, or significant foot traffic on frozen ground.
Signs your lawn needs aeration:
- Water pools on the surface after rain or runs off without soaking in
- The soil feels hard and dense underfoot, even when moist
- Grass is thinning or dying in high-traffic areas despite regular watering and fertilizing
- The lawn has a dull, compacted appearance that doesn’t respond to care
- You have heavy clay soil — common in parts of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia
Important: Always wait until the ground is firm, not wet before aerating. Aerating saturated soil pulls up muddy plugs and can make compaction worse rather than better. If the ground is still soft from snowmelt, give it another week or two.
After aeration, apply lime and fertilizer — the open channels allow these products to reach the root zone much more effectively than applying to an unaerated surface.
9. Watch for Overwintered Grubs in Spring
White grubs — the larvae of European Chafer and Japanese Beetles — overwinter in the soil and become active again as it warms in spring. If you noticed irregular brown patches, spongy turf, or digging by crows, starlings, or skunks in your lawn last fall, inspect those areas closely in spring.
As soil temperatures rise, grubs move back up toward the surface to feed on grass roots before pupating. Damaged areas where roots were destroyed over winter and fall may not green up properly in spring, even with adequate moisture and fertilizer. These spots will typically need to be raked out and reseeded once the grubs have moved on.
If you’re seeing consistent grub pressure year over year in the same areas of your lawn, speak with your local Feeds’n Needs team about grub management options available in your province — regulations on certain products vary by region.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I start spring lawn care in the Maritimes?
Wait until the ground has firmed up enough that walking across the lawn doesn’t leave visible footprints. In most Maritime locations this is late April to mid-May. Starting too early on wet, soft soil causes compaction and can damage the crowns of emerging grass plants.
What is the difference between 17-17-17 and 21-7-7 fertilizer?
17-17-17 provides equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, making it ideal for new lawns, overseeding, and spring repair where you need both root development and top growth. 21-7-7 has a higher nitrogen content with a slow release formula, designed for established lawns that need sustained green colour and vigour without repeated applications.
What is snow mold and how do I fix it?
Snow mold is a fungal disease that develops under prolonged snow cover, leaving circular matted or discoloured patches after the snow melts. Lightly rake affected areas to restore airflow. Most lawns recover naturally within a few weeks; persistently bare patches may need light reseeding.
How do I repair salt damage on my lawn?
Flush affected areas with generous amounts of water to dilute and disperse the salt through the soil. Repeat a few times over a week for significant damage. Once the area shows signs of recovery or confirms it won’t recover, rake out dead grass, improve the soil if needed, and reseed.
Why is moss taking over my lawn?
Moss is a symptom, not the root problem. It thrives in acidic, shaded, poorly drained, or compacted soil. Address the underlying cause — test pH and lime if acidic, improve drainage, aerate if compacted, reduce shade where possible — and overseed with appropriate grass seed. Dense, healthy grass is your best long-term defence.
Should I lime my lawn every spring?
Not necessarily every year — lime should be applied based on soil test results. However, because Maritime soils are naturally acidic and rainfall leaches pH over time, many lawns in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and PEI benefit from lime every one to three years. A soil test gives you a clear answer.
What lawn seed is best for repairing bare patches?
Triple Mix Lawn Seed is a reliable all-purpose choice for patching and overseeding. For areas where you want a thicker, more polished result — front yards, visible lawn areas — use Premium Lawn Mix.
How often should I water newly seeded areas?
Keep the seedbed consistently moist until germination and early establishment — this typically means light watering once or twice a day in dry or windy conditions. Never let the seed bed dry out completely during the germination window, but avoid flooding. Once grass is a couple of inches tall, you can begin transitioning to deeper, less frequent watering.
Does my lawn need aeration every spring?
Not every lawn needs annual aeration, but most Maritime lawns benefit from it every one to two years, particularly those with clay soil, heavy foot traffic, or persistent compaction. If water is pooling or the soil feels hard underfoot, aeration should be part of your spring plan.
What causes thatch and how do I deal with it?
Thatch is a layer of dead grass stems, roots, and organic material that accumulates between the soil surface and the green grass blades. A thin layer (under half an inch) is normal and even beneficial. A thicker layer blocks water, air, and nutrients from reaching roots. Dethatch in spring once the ground is firm, using a dethatching rake for small areas or a power dethatcher for larger lawns. Follow up with overseeding and fertilizing to help the lawn fill back in.
Recommended Products for Maritime Spring Lawn Care
- 17-17-17 Balanced Fertilizer — Complete nutrition for new lawns, overseeding, and spring repairs
- 21-7-7 Slow Release Fertilizer — Sustained green-up and steady feeding for established lawns
- Triple Mix Lawn Seed — Reliable all-purpose patching and overseeding
- Premium Lawn Mix — Thick, attractive, finished results for residential and high-visibility lawns
- Highway Mix — Durable, practical ground cover for slopes, ditches, and low-maintenance areas
- Lime — Essential for correcting the acidic Maritime soils that prevent nutrients from being absorbed
Visit your local Feeds’n Needs in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, or PEI for lawn seed, fertilizer, lime, and expert seasonal advice tailored to your yard and your region.


Is pasture enough for horses in the summer?
Understanding nutrition gaps, Grazing management & Supplement needs
For many horse owners across Atlantic Canada, summer means lush green fields, longer grazing hours, and horses spending more time outdoors. It’s easy to assume that a horse surrounded by green grass is receiving all the nutrition they need.
While quality pasture can be an excellent source of forage, energy, and fiber, it doesn’t always provide a complete nutritional package. Factors such as weather, grazing pressure, soil health, and seasonal changes can significantly impact the nutritional value of pasture throughout the summer.
Whether you own a retired pasture companion, a growing youngster, a senior horse, or an active performance horse, understanding the strengths and limitations of pasture is an important part of managing your horse’s health.
The benefits of summer pasture
Healthy pasture offer several advantages for horses:
- Natural forage and fiber
- Consistent movement and grazing behavior
- A source of calories and energy
- Improved mental well-being
- Reduced reliance on stored feeds
In ideal conditions, pasture can contribute to a significant portion of a horse’s daily nutritional needs. However, “green” doesn’t always mean “nutritionally complete.”
Why pasture quality changes throughout the summer
Your Pasture is constantly changing. What your horse grazes in May can be very different from what they consume in July or August. Several factors influence pasture quality:
Overgrazing: One of the most common pasture management challenges is overgrazing.
When horses repeatedly graze the same area, grass plants are unable to recover properly. Over time, desirable forage species decline, weeds become more prevalent, and overall forage production decreases.
Overgrazed pastures often look green from a distance but provide significantly less nutrition than healthy, actively growing grass.
Weather and drought stress: Atlantic Canada’s weather can vary dramatically throughout the summer. Extended dry periods slow grass growth and reduce forage availability. Even when grass remains present, drought-stressed plants often contain lower nutritional value than actively growing pasture.
Seasonal changes: As grasses mature, their nutritional profile changes. Early-season pasture tends to be higher in digestible energy and protein, while mature summer pasture often contains more fiber and fewer readily available nutrients.
Soil health and nutrient levels: The nutritional value of pasture starts with the soil. Pastures that haven’t been soil tested or properly managed may lack important nutrients needed to support healthy forage growth. This can ultimately affect the nutritional quality of the grass available to horses.
The importance of pasture rotation
One of the best ways to improve pasture quality is through rotational grazing. Pasture rotation involves dividing fields into smaller sections and moving horses periodically to allow the grazed areas time to recover.
Benefits of rotational grazing include:
- Healthier root systems
- Improved forage production
- Reduced weed pressure
- Better drought resilience
- More consistent nutritional value
- Less soil compaction and erosion
Allowing grass to have adequate recovery time helps maintain a healthier pasture throughout the growing season and can significantly extend grazing availability.
Even small hobby farms can benefit from simple rotation systems using temporary fencing to create separate grazing areas.
How to support your horse on pasture
The best feeding programs start with regular observation and evaluation.
Monitor your horse’s:
- Body condition score
- Weight and topline
- Coat quality
- Energy levels
- Hoof condition
- Overall health
Depending on your horse’s needs, nutritional support may include:
- Vitamin and mineral supplements
- Salt blocks or loose salt
- Additional hay during dry periods
- Concentrates or feeds for working horses
- Senior-specific feeds
- Protein or energy supplementation when needed
Every horse and pasture system is different, making an individualized approach important.
Pasture is one of the most valuable tools available to horse owners, but it isn’t always a complete feeding program on its own.
Changes in weather, grazing pressure, soil health, and seasonal growth can all impact the nutritional value of your pasture throughout the summer. By practicing good pasture management, utilizing rotational grazing, and monitoring your horse’s condition regularly, you can help ensure they receive the nutrition they need.
If you’re unsure whether your horse’s pasture is meeting their nutritional requirements, visit your local Feeds’n Needs store. Our knowledgeable team can help you select the right feeds, supplements, minerals, and forage solutions to support your horse’s health all summer long.


How much water should a horse drink in the summer?
Signs of dehydration, hydration tips & daily water needs
Summer in Atlantic Canada means longer days, warmer temperatures, trail rides, horse shows, and more time spent outdoors. While most horse owners focus on feed, pasture quality, and fly control during the warmer months, one of the most important aspects of summer horse care is often the simplest: water.
Hydration plays a critical role in your horse’s overall health, performance, digestion, and recovery. Understanding how much your horse should drink—and recognizing when they’re not getting enough—can help prevent serious health concerns during the hottest months of the year.
Why water intake matters more in summer
Water is the most important nutrient in your horse’s diet. During summer, horses lose significant amounts of fluid through sweating as they regulate their body temperature.
Several factors can increase a horse’s risk of dehydration, including:
- Hot temperatures
- High humidity
- Increased exercise and training
- Long trailer rides
- Horse shows and competitions
- Dry forage diets
- Limited shade or pasture access
Even mild dehydration can impact digestion, recovery, and performance. More severe dehydration can contribute to the impact of colic, heat stress, and electrolyte imbalances.
How much water should a horse drink?
A typical horse will drink between 20 and 60 liters of water per day, depending on their size, workload, diet, and environmental conditions.
As a general guideline:
- Horses at rest in moderate weather may drink 20–30 liters daily.
- Horses working regularly or spending long hours in the sun may consume 40–60 liters or more.
- Lactating mares and growing horses often require additional water.
- Horses eating primarily dry hay typically drink more water than horses grazing lush pasture.
The key is knowing what is normal for your horse and monitoring changes.
Factors that increase water requirements:
Hot weather: As temperatures rise, horses sweat more to cool themselves. Increased sweating means increased fluid loss that must be replaced.
Humidity: Atlantic Canadian summers often bring high humidity. Humid conditions make it harder for sweat to evaporate, causing horses to sweat longer and lose more fluids.
Exercise and performance: Whether you’re competing on the show circuit, trail riding, or training regularly, exercise significantly increases water requirements. Performance horses can lose several liters of fluid during a single workout.
Dry hay diets: Hay contains very little moisture compared to fresh pasture. Horses consuming mostly hay must make up the difference through increased water intake.
Travel: Many horses drink less while traveling because water tastes different at new locations or because the stress of transport reduces their desire to drink.
Senior horses: Older horses may be less efficient at regulating body temperature and can be more susceptible to dehydration during heat waves.
Dehydration; What to look for in your horse
Dehydration can develop quickly during warm weather. Watch for these common warning signs:
- Dry or firm manure
- Reduced appetite
- Lethargy or fatigue
- Slow recovery after exercise
- Reduced performance
- Darker urine
- Dry gums
- Skin that tents when gently pinched
If you suspect significant dehydration, contact your veterinarian immediately.
Tips to encourage water intake
Clean and fresh: Horses are surprisingly picky about water quality. Scrub buckets, troughs, and automatic waterers regularly encourage drinking.
Offer multiple options: Providing several water stations in fields, paddocks, and barns can encourage horses to drink more frequently.
Soaking feed: Adding water to beet pulp, hay cubes, pellets, or senior feeds can significantly increase daily water consumption.
Bring water from home: Many horses dislike unfamiliar water. Bringing water from home to horse shows or events can help maintain normal drinking habits.
Provide shade: Shade helps reduce heat stress and encourages horses to spend more time near water sources.
Electrolytes: Horses that sweat heavily may benefit from electrolyte supplementation to help replace minerals lost through sweat and encourage drinking. Always follow feeding directions and ensure fresh water is available.
Product support products here at Feeds’n Needs
Several products can help support hydration during the summer months, including:
- Electrolyte supplements
- Performance horse hydration products
- Senior horse feeds designed for easy soaking
- Beet pulp and other moisture-friendly feeds
- Salt blocks and loose salt options
Our team can help you choose the right hydration strategy based on your horse’s age, workload, and lifestyle.
