If you’ve noticed your plants struggling to thrive, one possible culprit could be an imbalance in your soil pH. The pH level of your soil is essential for plant health and can directly affect the growth and vitality of everything in your garden. It may seem like a small detail, but soil pH plays a huge role in how well your plants can absorb nutrients and flourish. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, understanding soil pH can make all the difference. Here’s everything you need to know to keep your plants happy and healthy!
What is Soil pH?
Soil pH measures how acidic or alkaline the soil is. The “pH” stands for “potential hydrogen,” which refers to the concentration of hydrogen ions in the soil. The more hydrogen present, the lower the pH (acidic), and the less hydrogen, the higher the pH (alkaline). The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, where 7 is neutral. Soils with a pH of 4-6.5 are acidic, while soils with a pH of 7.5-9 are alkaline. Most plants thrive in soil with a pH around 6.5. When pH levels fall below 5 or exceed 7, it becomes toxic for many plants.
Why is Soil pH Important to the Garden?
Soil pH directly impacts your plants’ ability to absorb nutrients. Plants require 14 of the 17 essential nutrients from the soil, and the pH level determines how available these nutrients are. Generally, slightly acidic soils (pH 6-7) provide the best environment for nutrient availability, allowing plants to grow and flourish. If the soil pH is out of balance, plants can struggle to access vital nutrients, even if they’re present in the soil.
Additionally, soil pH affects the beneficial microorganisms that help decompose organic matter. In highly acidic soil, these bacteria can’t function properly, causing nutrient buildup that plants can’t access.
Causes for Acidic or Alkaline Soil
Soil pH can vary depending on location. Dry, sandy areas tend to have more alkaline soils, while moist climates often result in more acidic soil due to rain washing away calcium and magnesium. The type of rock in your area also influences soil pH. For instance, areas with abundant lime will likely have more alkaline soil. Understanding your local soil composition helps you work with nature, not against it.
How to Test Your Soil’s pH
Testing your soil’s pH is the first step toward a healthier garden. A simple home testing kit can provide an accurate reading. Here’s how to use it:
- Collect soil samples from various spots in your garden.
- Mix the samples for an average result.
- Follow the instructions provided with your test kit.
Knowing your soil’s pH makes it easier to adjust it if necessary.
How to Raise Soil pH
If your soil is too acidic, you can raise the pH by adding garden lime. Lime, a finely ground limestone, is available at Feeds’n Needs and helps neutralize acidity. Be cautious not to overapply, as too much lime can harm plants. To adjust the pH, apply lime in the fall, then rototill or turn the soil to ensure it mixes well with the ground.
How to Lower Soil pH
Lowering soil pH is often easier than raising it. If your soil is too alkaline, consider using raised garden beds filled with high-quality soil. If raised beds aren’t an option, sulfur can help lower soil pH. Mix the sulfur into the soil before planting. Additionally, materials like sawdust, peat moss, wood chips, and leaf mold can help reduce soil pH, especially when combined with sulfur.
Balancing Soil pH with Compost
Adding compost is a great way to stabilize your soil’s pH. The rich organic material in compost acts as a buffer, preventing drastic pH fluctuations that can stress your plants. You can make your own compost or purchase processed manure to enrich your soil.
Soil pH is a key factor in maintaining a healthy garden. By understanding and adjusting your soil’s pH, you can ensure your plants have access to the nutrients they need to thrive. Gardening is a journey, and getting to know the specific needs of your plants—like soil pH—will help you create a lush, vibrant outdoor space. Take the time to test and adjust your soil’s pH, and your plants will thank you with healthy growth and bountiful blooms!
Prepare Your Lawn for Spring
As the days are now becoming longer and spring approaches, it’s the perfect time to start prepping your lawn. With a little springtime effort, you’ll set your yard up for a healthy, vibrant season ahead. Here are some easy steps to ensure your lawn thrives this spring:
Raking
Raking is essential to spring lawn care. It helps remove debris and prepare your grass for healthy growth. However, it’s crucial that the grass is dry enough before you begin. You can check this by walking on the lawn—if your footprints remain, the grass is still too moist, and raking could cause damage.
It’s best to rake when the grass is still dormant and brown. Waiting too long could harm the healthy roots and set back your lawn’s recovery. Removing leaves, dead grass, and other debris allows your lawn to breathe and encourages new growth as the weather warms up.
Aerating
Aeration is essential for improving soil health and allowing water and fertilizer to penetrate deeper. This process is especially beneficial if your lawn is over five years old or has compacted soil. Spring is an excellent time to aerate because the soil is often moist and more forgiving. However, it can be done at any point during the season.
Fertilizing
After the long winter, your lawn needs a little help getting back to full health. Choose fertilizer with a slow-release formula which has a higher amount of phosphorous to encourage root growth. Once your grass is green and actively growing (around June), you can switch to a higher-nitrogen fertilizer to help maintain its lush appearance.
Overseeding
If your lawn is looking a little sparse, overseeding is a great way to encourage new growth and thicken it up. Start by spreading a thin layer of compost or soil over your lawn after it’s been raked. Then, sprinkle high-quality grass seed and cover it with another light layer of compost. This extra layer helps keep the seed moist and protects it from birds. Be sure to water it lightly every day until the seeds are established, which usually takes about 2–3 weeks, depending on the weather.
For more tips on overseeding, check out our blog, Overseeding Your Lawn in Spring.
Preventing Weeds
Bare or thin spots on your lawn can attract weeds like crabgrass, which can quickly take over. Crabgrass is tough and thrives in dry, hot conditions when cool-season grasses are dormant. It can survive low mowing, foot traffic, and poor soil conditions. The key to controlling it is early prevention. Crabgrass seeds start germinating when the soil warms to 13°C-16°C for five consecutive days. A combination of pre-emergent herbicides and a thick, healthy lawn can significantly reduce its growth. The thicker the grass, the better it can fight off weeds like crabgrass.
Clean Up Debris
Don’t forget to tidy up your lawn and landscape! Clear away any leftover leaves, sticks, or debris from winter. This will help your grass breathe and allow it to thrive as the season progresses. If your lawn has a severe thatch issue, it might be a good time to do a more intense dethatching.
By following these simple steps, you’ll be well on your way to a healthy, vibrant lawn this spring. The time you invest now will pay off with a beautiful yard all season long!
Growing Sprouts Year-Round
Growing sprouts from seeds is something we can all do— regardless of space, time or gardening experience. Sprouts are highly nutritious and packed with vitamins, minerals, and so much more! They can be easily germinated on your kitchen counter. They will be ready to eat in just a few days, and you can grow them all year round! You don’t have to have a green thumb to grow sprouts; you just have to add a small habit to your daily schedule and grab a couple of supplies to get started.
What Are Sprouts?
A sprout is exactly what it sounds like—a germinated seed. It’s a seed that’s been soaked and allowed to sprout, but instead of growing into a full plant, it’s harvested and eaten during the early sprouting stage.
The Benefits of Growing Sprouts
Sprouts Grow Fast
Since we’re harvesting the plants at their earliest growth stage, there’s no need to wait for them to develop roots, flowers, or fruit. You can enjoy your first batch of sprouts in just a few days.
Sprouts Don’t Require Much Space
You can grow enough sprouts to toss in your salads and sandwiches in a small space, such as next to your kitchen sink.
Sprouts are Super Nutritious
When you eat sprouts, you get the seed’s initial nutrition. All those vitamins and minerals that would have eventually spread to dozens of leaves, stems, and fruit can be enjoyed in just one bite. The exact nutrients you’ll get will depend on the type of sprout you’re eating.
Sprouts Can be Grown Year-Round
You can start growing sprouts when ever you like. It doesn’t matter if the ground is frozen or a storm is coming. Sprouts are not affected by the weather outside, only by the environment you create for them inside. That means you can enjoy the garden-fresh flavour all year long, no matter where you live.
Most Common Sprouting Seeds
While you can technically sprout just about any seed, nut or bean/legume, the most common seeds to sprout and eat are:
- Mung beans
- Lentils
- Alfalfa
- Clover
- Radish
- Broccoli
- Sunflower
- Peas
Some seeds can be dangerous to sprout and eat raw, such as kidney beans and tomato seeds, which are two examples of seeds that produce toxins when sprouted. Always stick to using designated sprouting seeds, such as Mumm’s Sprouts, available at Feeds’n Needs.
What You Need to Grow Sprouts
1. A wide-mouthed jar
2. A bowl or drain rack that allows you to invert the jar at an angle.
3. A sprouting lid, or some screen or netting with a rubber band.
5. Freshwater. If you would drink the water then it’s fine to use!
6. Seeds with good germination, preferably grown for human consumption.
Step-by-Step How to Grow Sprouts
Soaking
Put 1-2 tbsp of small seed, or ¼ – ½ cup of large seed in the jar. Rinse with water and drain. Add water to the jar and let the seeds soak in the jar for approximately 2 hours (broccoli family), 6 hours (small seeds) or 12 hours (bigger grains or beans) in enough water to allow them to swell completely. Affix your sprouting lid or screen and rubber band. After soaking, pour out the water through the screen.
Sprouting
Place the jar away from direct sunlight upside down and on an angle to allow the excess water to drain out and air to circulate. Rinse twice daily.
Harvesting
If you sprouted beans or grains for 2 days, they are now ready to eat without a final rinse, and leftovers can be stored in the fridge. After 4-5 days of sprouting, leafy sprouts should be rinsed as usual, grown for half a day, and stored in the refrigerator.
Storing
Well-drained sprouts should be kept in the fridge for up to 10 days. Optional: put folded paper towel on top of the sprouts in the jar. Put the lid on and refrigerate turned upside down to remove excess moisture.
Ways to Use Sprouts
Sprouts are a fantastic and healthy addition to salads, sandwiches, soups, stir-fries, and smoothies. Try adding alfalfa sprouts to sandwiches with deli meat, fresh tomatoes, and avocado for a nutritious boost. For a spicy kick, toss some radish sprouts into your next salad. You can also use sprouted beans instead of regular soaked beans in bean salads for extra nutrition, or even make sprouted bean chilli! Add bean sprouts to stir-fries for a crunchy, nutritious twist. The possibilities are endless, and you can easily swap sprouts for their full-grown or seed counterparts in nearly any recipe. Growing sprouts is a great way to grow food indoors year-round and opens up endless opportunities to experiment with healthy, homemade dishes.
Happy sprout growing!
Tips for Winter Composting
There’s no reason to put composting to the sidelines over the winter. We may begin to think that our compost pile is frozen or stopped working in the winter months. It typically slows down considerably, but the organisms are just waiting to warm up a bit. Compost piles that are activity-managed in the winter will continue to decompose but at a slower pace. Keeping your compost active year-round offers many benefits, including great fuel for your garden in the spring. Here are some tips for winter composting:
Choose The Right Location
You will want to choose a spot easily accessible in the winter and away from direct sunlight or extreme weather. Do not compost near a body of water or the shore of a lake or stream. Compost can contribute unwanted nutrients to the water.
Select Your Composting Container
To help you decide on what size of a container you will need, think about how much organic waste you expect to have. You can create your own by drilling holes in the top of a large plastic storage bin or opt for a store-bought container to hold compost. Rotating bins make turning your mixture easy and help keep pests out.
Know What You Can Compost
The contents of your winter composting collection can be the same throughout the year. This includes kitchen scraps such as fruit peels, rinds or cores. Along with vegetables, including pumpkin shells and onion skins. Coffee grounds and paper filters can also go in the compost. Along with tea leaves and tea bags without any staples or stickers. Eggshells are also a great addition to compost. Composting is the best alternative to managing backyard waste and kitchen food scraps. It reduces the amount of waste you produce and supplies a beneficial soil amendment product.
Materials to Avoid
There are some materials you should avoid adding to your composting. Avoid adding meat, dairy, or oil foods to your compost, as they can attract pests and create unpleasant odors. Woody twigs and branches larger than 1/4 -inch in diameter should be put through a wood chipper before being added to your compost. Avoid wood and leaves from plants such as pine, spruce, juniper and arborvitae. Also, avoid adding plants that have been treated with weed killers.
Add Yard Clippings
Compost should have the right balance of green (nitrogen) and brown (carbon) ingredients. Since most of the scraps from your kitchen will be nitrogen-rich, be sure to add yard waste such as straw, dried leaves and plant debris.
Layering
Start by adding a layer of browns, such as dried leaves or shredded newspaper, to the bottom of your composting container. Next, add a layer of greens, like kitchen scraps and grass clippings. Continue alternating layers of browns and greens; lightly water each layer as you go to keep the compost moist.
Turn and Mix
Turning and mixing your compost helps aerate it, which speeds up the decomposition process. Use a pitchfork or shovel to turn the pile regularly, combining the outer layers into the center. You can also rotate your compost bins to make turning your mixture easy.
Monitor and Adjust
Monitoring moisture is essential when receiving a lot of rain and snow. This can be difficult with traditional compost piles, as the moisture soaks into the ground and is taken on by the compost. That is why it is a good idea to use a sealed compost container so the rain and snow melt is not a problem. Containers can still take on some water, so don’t skimp on adding dry leaves to adsorb any excess moisture. Your compost should feel moist but not wet. If it is too wet, add more dried leaves or cardboard. If it’s too dry, sprinkle it lightly with water. Your compost should be dark, crumbly and earthy-smelling. Stick your hand into the pile to test the temperature; if it’s warm, the composting process is on track.
Your compost will transform into nutrient-rich soil that will help when it’s time to start your garden in the spring. Just scoop out the finished compost and mix it into garden soil or pile it on top as mulch. Leave some compost in your container to help start the next batch!
Fall Bulb Planting
You might feel like the gardening season is winding down, but an excellent fall task is to plant bulbs so they can thrive from winter chilling and get their roots started before spring warmth helps them emerge. Certain spring flowers are called “dormant perennials.” They need the cool, moist autumn soil to awaken them from their dormancy so they can begin growing roots in preparation for the spring show. You can even plant a few vegetable bulbs in the fall that will thrive in the early summer with this extra growing time. This blog covers what you need to know to start your fall bulb planting!
When to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
The best time to plant fall bulbs is when soils are below 15°C in the late fall or about six weeks before a hard frost is expected. This is usually during September and October (Halloween is a reasonable deadline to set).
How to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
Planting bulbs is generally an easy task, but there are some things that you want to get right. Here are tips to keep in mind:
- Bulbs need at least partial sun throughout the spring. They look beautiful growing beneath trees (before the trees leaf out), amidst wildflowers, and mixed with spring annuals in containers.
- Bulbs need a spot with good drainage, or they may rot. Before planting, work a few inches of compost into the soil for nutrients and drainage, especially if you have heavy clay soil. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
- Plant bulbs with the point facing up! Examine bulbs carefully before placing them in the planting hole, being sure to set them with the roots facing down.
- Consider the bloom time for each bulb (early spring, mid-spring, late spring) and plant bulbs with different bloom times so that you have flowers throughout spring!
- Place shorter bulbs in the front of beds and borders.
- Plant bulbs generously in case some do not sprout (or are devoured by hungry squirrels). Plant them randomly and with varied spacing for a more natural appearance.
Best Bulbs to Plant in the Fall
- Daffodils
- Crocuses
- Snowdrops
- Tulips
- Hyacinths
- Irises
- Alliums (Ornamental Onions)
- Garlic
- Shallot
For more gardening tips, visit your local Feeds’n Needs and chat with one of our Experts!
Fall Lawn Care Tips
You’ve worked hard maintaining your lawn all summer, and now the fall season is right around the corner. Lawn care doesn’t stop once the weather gets colder; in fact, there are lots of things you can do to prepare your lawn for the winter months and help it thrive as soon as spring arrives! This blog covers our top 7 fall lawn care tips!
- Mow Your Lawn Shorter – As the temperature starts to drop in the fall, lawn growth slows down. To avoid grass from becoming matted, which can lead to mold over the winter, cut your grass short when you do your final mow of the season (late October – early November). Cut it down to 1.5″ – 2.5″ at most, as this length will prevent matting while ensuring your grass can continue to photosynthesize.
- Clean Up Leaves & Debris – As the leaves begin to fall in autumn, they may cover your lawn and block sunlight and nutrients from reaching the grass beneath them. We recommend raking up any areas with thick leaf coverage on your lawn, as well as cleaning up any sticks, garden tools, etc., that may be lying around. If left to decay on your lawn over the winter, leaves can become a soggy, gross mess, so it’s best to get rid of them in the fall.
- Dethatch – “Thatch” is a layer of tangled grass, roots, leaves and other organic material that builds up over time, forming a layer between the soil and your actively growing grass. If left unbothered, thatch can make it difficult for new grass to grow and block nutrients from reaching healthy grass roots. Use a rake to gently scratch the top layer of soil on your lawn, pulling up the thatch layer in the process. Dethatching your lawn in the fall will make it much easier for new grass to start growing in the spring.
- Water Your Lawn – As the weather turns colder in the fall, it’s easy to forget to keep watering your lawn. While growth slows down in the fall, the roots of your grass are still growing and developing and need water to remain healthy! Since you don’t have to worry about heat evaporation in the fall, your lawn doesn’t need to be watered as often as it would in the summer. If rainfall isn’t enough to keep it watered, water your lawn with at least a half inch of water once per week to prevent it from getting too dry.
- Apply a Fall Fertilizer – Fertilizing your lawn in the fall will deliver nutrients to your grass, helping it to develop stronger roots and profound root growth. Excess nutrients will be stored over the winter so when spring arrives, your lawn can tap into these stored nutrients to help it start growing again. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen in the fall; instead, choose one with higher phosphorus and potassium levels, which help with root development and growth. Our experts recommend applying a 6-12-12 or 10-10-10 fertilizer in the fall, around 6 weeks before the ground freezes, for best results in the spring.
- Aerate – Aeration is the process of creating thousands of tiny holes in your lawn to break up compacted soil, allow oxygen flow, and encourage root growth. Compacted soil stores moisture and prevents drainage, which can eventually lead to problems like root rot and fungal issues. Aerating your lawn before overseeding in the fall allows the new seed to settle deep within the soil and start growing strong roots.
- Overseed Your Lawn – Overseeding is a great way to fill in any thin or bare spots on your lawn. When you overseed in the fall before the ground freezes, the seeds will have the chance to germinate and start growing strong roots so that when the snow melts in the spring, new grass will be ready to sprout! We recommend seeding your lawn in early fall (mid-August to late September) before it gets too cold to ensure your seed can germinate. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to grab a bag of lawn seed today!
By putting in the extra work in the fall, you’ll ensure a beautiful, healthy lawn in the spring, which you can enjoy for longer! Feeds’n Needs is your go-to store for lawn seed, fertilizer, and more. Stop in today and talk to one of our experts about how you can take your lawn care to the next level!
For more expert lawn care advice, check out these similar posts:
Overseeing Your Lawn in Spring
How to Maintain a Healthy Lawn
Guide to Harvesting Your Vegetable Garden
You took the time to make a garden plan, invest in quality seeds, nurture seedlings indoors, and carefully tend each plant. Now, the question is, when should you harvest your vegetable garden?
Seed packets and plant tags for transplants typically offer guidelines on growing times and maturity. They also list the number of days before maturity. However, those projections are not always a reliable indicator of vegetable maturity and ripeness. A chilly spring can delay ripening, whereas warmer-than-normal weather might hasten ripening. Soil fertility, lack of precipitation, or too much precipitation may also affect maturity. While days to maturity provide a baseline, gauging peak ripeness often requires hands-on assessment.
Best Practices for Harvesting
Timing: For most vegetables, the ideal time to harvest is in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the sun warms the plants. This timing preserves water content, ensuring leafy greens, beans, cucumbers, and squash are at their crispest. However, there are a few exceptions (such as tomatoes and peppers) when a lower water content is preferable. For these types of vegetables, it’s good to wait until there have been a few dry days and then pick them in the heat of the day, allowing the sugar content to be at its highest concentration, yielding optimum flavor.
Handling: To minimize plant damage and disease, gently harvest vegetables by twisting or cutting them off with clean tools like knives or scissors. Avoid stepping on plants, as healthy stems and foliage are crucial for sustained production.
Frequency: Regular harvesting encourages continuous production. Plants naturally cease fruiting once seeds reach maturity, underscoring the importance of consistent harvests to prolong yield.
Tips for Effective Harvesting
Flavor and Nutrition: Vegetables such as beans, peas, and summer squash are tastiest when young and tender. In contrast, tomatoes and winter squash develop full flavor when left to ripen fully on the vine.
Size Matters: While size often indicates maturity (consult seed packet specifics), practice and experience refine judgment on optimal harvest times for various vegetables.
Tool Selection: Use appropriate tools—like scissors for delicate crops and knives or pruners for tougher stems—to avoid plant damage and ensure clean cuts.
Environmental Considerations: Harvest early in the day for peak flavor and nutrition retention. Avoid harvesting during wet conditions to prevent disease spread and maintain vegetable quality.
Leafy Greens: Begin harvesting outer leaves first to promote continued growth of inner foliage in lettuces and similar plants.
By following these guidelines, you’ll maximize the flavor, nutrition, and longevity of your garden’s bounty, ensuring a rewarding harvest season. Happy harvesting!
Fore more garden related information, check out our other blogs:
What Type of Garden Best Suits Your Needs
Gardening Tips for Beginners
How to Successfully Grow a Vegetable Garden
Starting Seeds Indoors Using Peat Pellets
How to Grow a Salsa Garden
If you’re a fan of fresh, homemade salsa, then this is the perfect summer project for you! Planting your own salsa garden is not only beginner-friendly, but it’s also a source of immense satisfaction. Follow these simple instructions and you’ll soon be enjoying delicious, fresh salsa made from ingredients you’ve grown yourself.
Step 1: Select an area that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. A 4×4-foot raised bed or square-foot garden will grow plenty of ingredients for fresh salsa. If you are starting with a new bed, starting small (4×4) will give you a good idea of how much produce you actually use. You can change your garden plan accordingly for the following year. Your salsa garden can be in-ground, in a raised bed, or grown in containers.
Step 2: The next step is deciding what you want to put into your salsa. The basic ingredients are tomatoes, peppers, garlic, onions, and cilantro. Feel free to experiment with other vegetables, such as hot peppers and corn. Feeds’n Needs has a large selection of Vesey’s Seeds to choose from.
Step 3: Follow the growing steps on the back of your seed packages for the best results. If you’re planting from seed, the rule of thumb is to bury the seeds 2-3 times the debit of their diameter.
Step 4: If you’re starting with plants that you started indoors, bury them as deep as they are planted in their original container.
Step 5: Water, weed, fertilize, and harvest weekly throughout the growing season. Enjoy the abundance of fresh veggies and herbs and create a personalized salsa based on your taste buds!
How to Keep Wild Animals Out of Your Garden
Growing a garden requires lots of time and dedication, so it can be frustrating when wild animals come along and help themselves to your plants! Getting rid of these pests can be tricky but not impossible, and as long as you know what type of animal intruder you’re dealing with, you can find a solution to keep them out!
Repellants – Repellants are applied on or around plants to deter animals from snacking in your garden. Since not all repellants are food-safe, be sure to read the label before applying it to any fruits or vegetables. Reapply every 5 – 7 days since they can lose their effectiveness over time, or rain can wash the repellants away.
There are two types of animal repellants typically sold in stores:
- Taste: These repellants contain ingredients that taste bad to animals, so when an animal tries to nibble on your plants, it will be met with a foul taste that won’t have it coming back for seconds.
- Smell: These repellants are formulated to trick pesky wildlife into thinking that a rival animal or predator is already in the area by producing a scent that mimics other animals.
A longtime customer favourite for repelling thieving wildlife is Critter Ridder animal repellant. Available in granular or liquid formulations, Critter Ridder’s foul taste effectively repels unwanted animals when applied on or around plants.
Fencing – Animals can’t eat what’s growing in your garden if they can’t get to it. When done right, building a fence is one of the most effective ways to keep out pests. The key to protecting your garden with a fence is knowing what animals you need to keep out. Fences can be built from materials like chicken wire, hardware cloth, wood, plastic mesh, etc. They can be a permanent installation or set up temporarily during the gardening season. Regardless of what you use to build your fence and how tall you make it, we recommend extending it into the ground by at least one foot to prevent pests like groundhogs from burrowing underneath it. Visit your local Feeds’n Needs to see our selection of fencing options and ask our experts which one may work best for you.
Scare Tactics – Another way to deter wildlife in your garden is to scare them away. Things like scarecrows, motion sensor lights or sprinklers, reflective tape or faux predator decoys can spook animals and prevent them from coming near your garden. These tools may lose effectiveness over time as animals become familiar with them, so frequently switching up your scare methods and moving things around can help maintain the element of surprise. Find products like scare-eye balloons, buzzline bird scarers and more at Feeds’n Needs and say goodbye to pests around your home!
Plants – Did you know certain plants can help keep animals away from your garden? Like us, animals have food preferences, and most aren’t fans of plants that are incredibly fragrant, have fuzzy or prickly foliage, or have a bitter taste. Try planting some of these fragrant plants around your garden to help deter unwanted wildlife:
- Lavender
- Marigolds
- Sage
- Mint (Be careful when planting mint, as it can quickly take over your yard!)
- Chrysanthemums
- Geraniums
- Lemongrass
Raised Garden Beds – Depending on what type of animal you’re trying to deter, planting in raised garden beds or window boxes may help prevent damage from pests. You can even go a step further and put fencing around your raised beds to protect your plants from deer and other wildlife that could easily reach a raised bed.
Contain Garbage, Compost, Birdseed – Keep bins of garbage, compost, birdseed, or other food sources secure in sealed containers to prevent pests like raccoons, skunks, and squirrels from sniffing it out and drawing them into your yard.
Our experts want to help you get the most out of your garden this year, so stop in at your local Feeds’n Needs to find the supplies you need to keep the pests away! While you’re there, remember to check out our garden section and stock up on Vesey’s seeds, fertilizers, gardening tools and more!
Disclaimer: Product availability and selection may vary by store. Please check your local store for availability.
Looking for more gardening tips and tricks? Check out our other blogs!
What Type of Garden Best Suits Your Needs
Starting Seeds Indoors Using Peat Pellets
Gardening Tips for Beginners
Starting Seeds Indoors Using Peat Pellets
If you’re looking for an easy, mess-free way to start your seeds indoors, try peat pellets! These discs of dehydrated peat moss, held together with biodegradable mesh, are simple to use, require minimal maintenance, and can be transplanted directly into the ground once your seeds have sprouted.
Here’s what you’ll need:
- Flat Seed Starting Tray and a Plastic Dome Lid – The SunBlaster Nanodome is ideal, offering a tray, lid, and grow light.
- Seeds – Pick up your favourite Vesey’s seed varieties at your local Feeds’n Needs.
- Plant Markers – Use these to mark your rows or sections of seeds in the peat pellets to avoid mixing them up. Also, note the date you planted the seeds.
To start seeds indoors using peat pellets, follow these six basic steps:
1. Arrange your pellets – Place the pellets in rows of 5 or according to the number of seeds per variety. This simplifies labelling.
2. Expand/soak pellets – Pour warm water over the pellets, submerging them about 2 cm from the top of the tray. Allow 10 minutes for full expansion, then drain any excess water.
3. Plant seeds – Tear the top of the netting on each pellet slightly. Use a pencil, toothpick, or your finger to create a small hole for the seeds. Plant 2 seeds per pellet and lightly cover them.
4. Label pellets – Always label your seeds! Mark the rows with masking tape on the tray or label each pellet individually.
5. Cover with dome lid – Cover the tray with the plastic dome lid and place it in a warm location. Seeds do not require light to sprout, so they do not need to be initially under the grow lights. Water only when the pellets look dry.
6. Place under lights and remove dome – Once the seeds have sprouted, remove the plastic dome and place the tray under the grow lights. If more than one seed sprouts in a pellet, pinch off or cut the extra seedling, leaving one healthy plant per pellet.
Pellet Benefits:
Peat pellets retain sufficient moisture for seed germination and ensure good drainage to prevent overwatering. The netting around the pellet allows air circulation through the root ball. Additionally, pellets reduce transplant shock since the roots experience minimal disturbance during transplanting.
Our experts at Feeds’n Needs know how exciting gardening season is! Visit your local Feeds’n Needs and check out our gardening section for everything you need to start seeds indoors with peat pellets.
For more helpful gardening tips and tricks, check out our related posts.
What Type of Garden Best Suits Your Needs
Garden Planning for Spring and Summer
Gardening Tips for Beginners
How to Successfully Grow a Vegetable Garden
How to Sprout Your Own Seeds
