Digging Up and Storing Bulbs for Winter

As the growing season winds down and frost begins to settle in, it’s time to think about lifting and storing your tender bulbs to protect them through the winter. Proper care can ensure vibrant blooms next year!

1. Know When to Dig

Timing is everything when it comes to digging up bulbs.

• Wait for dieback: Let the foliage die back naturally after the first frost. This signals the bulb has stored enough energy for next season.
• Avoid frost damage: Digging too soon can harm the bulb, while waiting too long may expose it to freezing temperatures underground.

2. Dig Up and Clean the Bulbs

• Use the right tool: A garden fork is ideal to gently lift bulbs without damaging them.
• Lift carefully: Dig around and under the bulb to avoid cutting roots or bruising the bulb.
• Clean gently: Shake or brush off excess soil—no need to wash them.

3. Dry the Bulbs

• Air-dry: Place bulbs in a well-ventilated, dry area for about a week.
• Trim foliage: Once dry, remove any remaining leaves or stems.

4. Prepare for Storage

• Choose ventilated containers: Cardboard boxes, mesh bags, or crates work well.
• Add insulation: Layer bulbs with peat moss, sawdust, or vermiculite to prevent them from touching and to retain just enough moisture.
• Label everything: Include bulb type and color for easy spring planting.

5. Store the Bulbs

• Find the right spot: Store bulbs in a cool 7–13°C, dark, and dry location that won’t freeze.
• Ideal places: Unheated garages, basements, or root cellars are perfect.
• Monitor regularly: Check for signs of rot or mold and remove affected bulbs.

Spring & Summer Bulb Tips

Spring Bulbs (e.g., Daffodils, Crocus)

• Dormancy begins: Once foliage turns brown and papery in late spring or early summer, bulbs are dormant and ready to be lifted if needed.
• Divide every 5 years: Overcrowding leads to smaller blooms and uneven growth. Dig, divide, and replant to refresh your beds.

Summer Bulbs (e.g., Dahlias, Begonias)

• Lift after frost: Wait until frost blackens the foliage, then gently dig up the bulbs.
• Dry before storing: Allow leaves to dry naturally before trimming. Dust bulbs with fungicide to prevent rot.
• Store smart: Use paper bags or nylon stockings with dry peat moss. Keep in a frost-free, well-ventilated area between 16–18°C.

Conclusion

While many bulbs can stay in the ground for years, lifting and storing tender varieties ensures they survive harsh winters and thrive come spring. With a little care and attention, your garden will reward you with a stunning display year after year.

Fall Garden Prep

As the days grow shorter and the air turns crisp, it’s the perfect time to give your garden a little TLC before winter sets in. Prepping your garden in the fall not only keeps things tidy but also sets the stage for a healthy, vibrant growing season next year. Here’s how to wrap up the season with care:

Clean Up and Sanitize Your Garden

A tidy garden is a healthy garden. Start by removing any spent annuals and vegetable plants that have finished producing. This helps prevent pests and diseases from lingering through the winter.

• Toss diseased plants in the trash—not the compost pile—to avoid spreading pathogens.
• Leave healthy roots from nitrogen-fixing plants like beans and peas in the soil. They’ll break down naturally and enrich your garden.
• Weed thoroughly, especially those that have gone to seed, to reduce next spring’s weed load.

Enrich Your Soil

Fall is a great time to give your soil a boost so it’s ready to support new growth come spring.

• Test your soil every few years to check pH and nutrient levels. Fall is ideal for applying amendments like lime, which need time to take effect.
• Add compost—a 2–3 inch layer will feed your soil over the winter as it breaks down.
• Mulch generously with shredded leaves, straw, or wood chips to protect the soil and retain moisture.

Care for Perennials and Bulbs

Your perennials and bulbs need a little attention before the frost hits.

• Divide and transplant overcrowded perennials to give them room to thrive.
• Water deeply before the ground freezes to help roots stay hydrated through winter.
• Plant spring-blooming bulbs like tulips and daffodils now for a colorful show next year.
• Dig up tender bulbs such as dahlias and gladiolus and store them indoors.

 Prep Your Tools and Equipment

Don’t forget to take care of your gardening gear!

• Clean and sharpen tools to keep them in good shape and ready for spring.
• Drain hoses and irrigation systems to prevent freezing and cracking.
• Store pots and containers in a dry place to avoid damage from freeze-thaw cycles.

Fall Planting and Final Harvest

There’s still time to enjoy a few more crops before winter.

• Plant garlic between September and the end of November.
• Harvest remaining produce before the first hard frost. Green tomatoes? Let them ripen on a sunny windowsill indoors.

With a little effort now, your garden will be healthier, your tools will last longer, and you’ll be one step ahead when spring rolls around. Happy fall gardening!

How to Care for Potted Mums

As summer fades and autumn rolls in, it’s time to welcome one of the season’s most iconic flowers — the chrysanthemum, or as most of us call them, mums. These vibrant blooms are a staple in fall décor, adding bursts of color to porches, patios, and gardens. Whether you’re a seasoned green thumb or just starting out, caring for potted mums is simple with a few key tips.

Here’s how to keep your mums healthy, happy, and blooming beautifully all season long.

Choosing the Right Pot & Placement

Start with a container that drains well — think terra cotta, ceramic, or even the plastic nursery pot your mum came in. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot.

If you’re repotting, use a high-quality potting mix from Feeds’n Needs that holds moisture but still drains well. Mums love sunlight, so place them where they’ll get at least 6 hours of direct sun daily. Want to extend their bloom time? Try a spot with partial shade to slow down bud opening.

Watering Wisely

Mums like consistent moisture, but soggy soil is a no-go. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and always aim for the base of the plant — not the leaves — to avoid fungal issues. A regular watering schedule will help your mums stay vibrant longer.

Deadheading for More Blooms

To keep your mums looking fresh and encourage new flowers, remove faded blooms as they appear. This redirects the plant’s energy into producing more blossoms instead of seed.

Fertilizing for Fall Success

If you’re growing mums from spring, start feeding them with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10. As buds begin to form, switch to one with higher phosphorus and potassium (like 5-10-5) to boost blooms and root strength.

• Start feeding after the last frost in spring
• Continue until late July
• Feed every 7–14 days
• Water deeply after fertilizing to avoid root burn

If you’re treating your mums as seasonal décor and plan to compost them after fall, you can skip the fertilizer.

Winterizing Your Mums

Want your mums to come back next year? Here’s how to give them a fighting chance:

• Wait until after the first hard frost
• Add 4 inches of mulch (straw or shredded hardwood) around the base
• Leave stems intact — prune in spring, not fall
• In early spring, remove mulch and trim away dead growth

Keep in mind: mums are hardy, but poor drainage or extreme cold can reduce their chances of surviving winter.

Conclusion

Caring for potted mums is a great way to celebrate the season and add a splash of color to your outdoor space. With the right pot, proper watering, and a little TLC, your mums will thrive well into autumn — and maybe even return next year.

Looking for supplies? Visit your local Feeds’n Needs for potting mix, fertilizers, and everything you need to keep your fall garden blooming.

Best Vegetables to Can for Beginners

Canning is a fantastic way to preserve your garden harvest and enjoy fresh-tasting vegetables all year long. If you’re new to the process, starting with easy, reliable options can make your first season a success. Here are ten of the best vegetables to can for beginners that taste just as good months later as the day you packed them.

1. Asparagus – Tender asparagus is a spring favorite that cans surprisingly well. Start with fresh, firm stalks, trim them to fit your jars, and blanch before packing. Whether you add them to salads, stir-fries, or snack straight from the jar, you’ll be glad you preserved them when winter rolls around.

2. Beets – With their rich color and earthy flavor, beets are as beautiful as they are delicious. Leave a bit of stem and root when boiling to keep juices in, then slip off the skins before canning. They can be preserved whole, halved, or quartered, making them perfect for salads, side dishes, or snacking.

3. Carrots – Crisp, sweet carrots hold their texture wonderfully after canning. Simply wash, peel, and cut them into slices or chunks. They’re great for soups, stews, or quick side dishes—and pulling a jar off the shelf is much easier than peeling fresh ones on a busy night.

4. Corn – Fresh corn is hard to beat, and canning lets you keep that summer flavour on hand. Cut the kernels from the cob without scraping too close (to avoid tough bits) and pack them for year-round use in chowders, casseroles, and side dishes.

5. Cucumbers – Cucumbers are a classic canning choice—especially for pickles. Small ones stay crisp, while larger cucumbers can be sliced into spears or rounds. With the right brine, you’ll have tangy, crunchy pickles that brighten any meal.

6. Green Beans – Whether you prefer them whole or cut into bite-sized pieces, green beans are a canning staple. Just snap off the ends, rinse, and pack them in jars. They stay tender yet firm, making them a reliable side dish straight from the pantry.

7. Peas – Peas might not be the first vegetable you think of for canning, but they’re a hidden gem. Shell and blanch them to lock in their bright green color, then preserve them on their own or as part of a mixed vegetable blend. Their sweet pop adds flavour to soups, stews, and salads.

8. Peppers – From sweet bells to spicy varieties, peppers are versatile and full of flavor. Blister or boil them to remove skins before canning. Small peppers can be left whole, while larger ones work well halved or sliced for quick fajitas, pasta, or stir-fries.

9. Tomatoes – Tomatoes are practically made for canning. Use them for sauces, soups, stews, or salsa. Blanch to slip off the skins, then choose your style—whole, diced, or puréed. Season with herbs like basil or garlic for ready-to-use flavor boosters.

10. Radishes – Not just for salads, radishes shine when pickled. Their peppery bite mellows into a tangy, slightly sweet crunch that’s perfect for tacos, sandwiches, or charcuterie boards. They’re quick to grow, easy to prepare, and add something unique to your pantry lineup.

Start small and build your skills each season. With just a few jars of each of these vegetables, you’ll be stocking your pantry with homemade goodness—and you might find yourself looking forward to canning season as much as the harvest itself.

How to Get Started Growing Strawberries

There’s something truly satisfying about harvesting fresh, juicy strawberries from your own garden. Whether you’re a seasoned green thumb or just starting out, strawberries are a rewarding and relatively easy crop to grow—especially with our Maritime climate. Here’s everything you need to know to get started on the path to a bountiful strawberry harvest.

Step 1: Choose the Right Location and Prepare the Soil

Strawberries love the sun and thrive in fertile, well-drained soil. Here’s how to set the stage for success:

• Sunlight: Choose a spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
• Drainage: Avoid areas with heavy clay or soggy soil. Strawberries hate “wet feet,” so good drainage is key.
• Soil Amendment: Enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure to boost nutrients and improve texture.
• Soil pH: Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. You can test your soil using a simple home testing ki available at your local Feeds’n Needs.

Step 2: Plant the Strawberry Crowns

Once your soil is prepped, it’s time to plant:

• When to Plant: Spring is ideal, though fall planting can work in milder regions.
• Planting Depth: Dig holes large enough for the roots. Position the crown (where the roots meet the stems) level with the soil surface.
• Spacing: Space each plant about 20 inches apart. This helps with airflow and reduces disease risk.

Step 3: First-Year Plant Care

Your plants need a little TLC in their first season to set the stage for future harvests:

• Watering: Water thoroughly after planting and regularly throughout the season, especially during dry spells.
• Weeding: Keep the area weed-free so your strawberries don’t have to compete for water and nutrients.
• Blossom Removal: If you’re growing June-bearing varieties, pinch off the flowers during the first year. This encourages stronger root development and better yields next season.
• Fertilizing: Apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer about 4–6 weeks after planting to promote healthy growth.

Step 4: Prepare for Winter

Strawberries are hardy, but they still need protection when the temperatures drop:

• Mulch: Apply a thick layer of straw or similar mulch around the plants in late fall. This insulates the crowns and helps prevent winter damage.
• Snow Cover: In areas like the Maritimes, snow can offer additional insulation—but mulch is still essential to guard against freeze-thaw cycles.

Step 5: Ongoing Strawberry Plant Care

Keep your plants healthy and productive with consistent care:

• Watering: Continue regular watering, especially while fruit is developing.
• Fertilizing: Feed your strawberries in early spring and again after harvesting. Follow the product’s instructions for best results.
• Weed and Pest Control: Stay vigilant for weeds, pests, and diseases. Remove weeds promptly and use organic or chemical treatments as needed.
• Plant Renewal: Strawberry plants tend to decline after 3–4 years. Plan to replace older plants to maintain high yields.

Best Strawberry Varieties for Atlantic Canada

Not all strawberries are created equal, especially when it comes to colder climates. These varieties are known to do well in Nova Scotia:

• ‘Northeaster’ – Cold-hardy and early ripening.
• ‘Sable’ – Excellent flavor and disease resistance.
• ‘Primetime’ – A reliable producer for home gardens.

Growing your own strawberries takes a little planning, but the payoff is sweet—literally. With the right care and a bit of patience, you’ll be enjoying homegrown berries straight from the garden in no time.

Conclusion

Integrating a new pet into your household isn’t always easy, but it’s definitely rewarding. With time, patience, and plenty of positive reinforcement, your furry family members can learn to live together peacefully—and maybe even become best pals.
For more information on introducing a new cat to your home, check out our blog Preparing for Your New Kitten!

Effective Weed Control: Essentials for Your Lawn

Maintaining a pristine lawn in the Maritimes can be challenging, especially when weeds start to invade your green space. However, with the right strategies and products, you can keep your lawn looking its best. Here are some essential tips and products for effective weed control.

Understanding Common Weeds in the Maritimes

The first step in effective weed control is identifying the common weeds that plague lawns in the Maritimes. Some of the most prevalent include dandelions, crabgrass, and clover. Knowing what you’re up against will help you choose the right control methods.

Specific Weeds in the Maritimes

• Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale): A widely recognized weed with yellow flowers and rosette-shaped leaves.
• Chickweed (Stellaria media): A low-growing weed with small, white flowers and fleshy leaves. 
• Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense): A perennial weed with spiny leaves and purple flower heads. 
• Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.): A common grassy weed that grows in lawns and other disturbed areas.
• Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis): A vining weed with trumpet-shaped flowers and heart-shaped leaves. 
• Velvetleaf (Abutilon theophrasti): An annual weed with large, velvety leaves and pale yellow flowers.
• Yellow Rocket (Barbarea vulgaris): A biennial weed with yellow flowers and dissected leaves. 
• Yellow Nut Sedge (Cyperus esculentus): A grassy weed with rhizomes (underground stems) that can be difficult to control. 
• Tansy Ragwort (Senecio jacobaea): A biennial weed with yellow flowers and pinnate leaves. 
• White Cockle (Lychnis alba): A biennial weed with white flowers and lance-shaped leaves.
• Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca): A native perennial weed with pinkish-white flowers and lance-shaped leaves, also important for monarch butterflies.
• Partridge Berry (Mitchella repens): A low-growing ground cover with oval, green leaves and red berries.
• Common Blue Wood-Aster (Symphyotrichum cordifolium): A perennial plant with blue or purple flowers and heart-shaped leaves.

Factors Influencing Weed Growth

• Soil conditions: Weeds thrive in disturbed or nutrient-poor soils. 
• Disturbed areas: Roadsides, pastures, and harvested tree lots are prone to weed invasion.
• Climate: Environmental conditions like temperature and moisture can influence weed distribution and growth. 

Weeds can tell you a lot about your soil because all plant species prefer specific environmental conditions to thrive. Does the soil have too little nitrogen or is it eroded or too compacted? Here is a more detailed review of each type of weed and the specific factors that influence their growth on lawns:

Note: While some plants are commonly considered weeds, some native species, like common milkweed, can also be beneficial to the ecosystem. 

Some ‘weeds’ such as Goldenrod (Solidago species) and Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum) are native species which support pollinating insects and birds and contribute to the ecosystem. Milkweed (Asclepias species), for example, provides a nursery for the offspring of Monarch butterflies. Also, Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota) is also considered a weed but can be beneficial in that it attracts predatory wasps, flies and lady beetles which prey on garden pests such as aphids.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides

Pre-emergent herbicides are a great way to prevent weeds from taking root in your lawn. These products work by inhibiting the germination of weed seeds. Apply them early in the season before weeds start to grow. There are many popular options available, speak with your local Feeds’n Needs experts to find the right solution for your green space.

Remember to always read the label for application specifications.

Post-Emergent Herbicides

For weeds that have already established themselves, post-emergent herbicides are necessary. These products target and kill weeds that are actively growing. There are many popular options available, speak with your local Feeds’n Needs experts to find the right solution for your green space. Remember to always read the label for application specifications.

Organic Weed Control Options

If you prefer an eco-friendlier approach, there are organic weed control options available. These products are safe for pets and children and are effective in managing weeds. There are many popular options available, speak with your local Feeds’n Needs experts to find the right solution for your green space.

Manual Weed Removal

Sometimes, the best solution is good old-fashioned manual removal. Tools like weed pullers and hoes can help you remove weeds by the root, preventing them from growing back.

Lawn Maintenance Practices

Maintaining a healthy lawn is one of the best defenses against weeds. Regular mowing, watering, and fertilizing can keep your grass strong and resilient. Here are some tips:

• Mow Regularly: Keep your grass at a height of 2.5-3 inches (or use the one-third rule) to prevent weed growth. Mowing is a crucial maintenance practice for turf, significantly influencing the type and amount of weeds present. Following the one-third rule (never mow off more than one-third of the plant) is beneficial, but there’s more to consider. As turf grows taller and denser, it shades the soil, preventing weed seeds from germinating due to lack of sunlight. Increased mowing height alone can reduce weed pressure significantly.

During summer, raising mowing heights to three inches or more helps turf grow thicker and reduces weed pressure. Taller turf also promotes deeper root growth, enhancing the turf’s ability to withstand heat, drought, disease, and insect pressure. Additionally, keeping mower blades sharp and returning clippings to the turf (using a mulching mower blade helps with this) contributing up to two pounds of nitrogen per year.

• Water Deeply: Water your lawn deeply but infrequently to encourage deep root growth.
• Fertilize: Use a balanced fertilizer to keep your lawn healthy and vigorous. Remember to always read the label for application specifications.

To get your green space looking it’s best, talk with one of our Feeds’n Needs experts in store. They will help you find the best solution to control and prevent weed growth.

Conclusion

Weed control in the Maritimes requires a combination of prevention, treatment, and maintenance. By using the right products and practices, you can keep your lawn looking lush and weed-free. Visit your local Feeds’n Needs to find all the essentials you need for effective weed control.

New Gardeners – When to Plant According to Frost Dates

For gardeners, the itch to get started as early as possible is real. The sight of a thawing garden bed, the longer daylight hours—it’s all so tempting! But timing is everything. When it comes to planting, especially in colder regions like the Maritimes, patience pays off.

When Is It Safe to Start Planting?

The golden rule is to wait until after the last frost date before doing any major planting. This date variers by region, but for much of Maritimes, it typically falls in the second half of May. In some areas, frost can still be a risk into early June. In fact, many seasoned gardeners play it safe and wait until after the full moon in June.

Starting Seeds Indoors: Where to Begin

If you’re eager to get a jump on the season, starting seeds indoors is a great option. Not all seeds need or want a head start inside, but some absolutely benefit from it. The seed packet is your best friend here—follow its timing suggestions carefully.

New to indoor seed starting? Begin with beginner-friendly plants like sweet peas or marigolds. A simple trick when choosing seeds: give the packet a shake. Larger seeds tend to be easier to germinate, making them a great choice for those just starting out.

What to Start Indoors (And What to Skip)

Not all veggies thrive when started indoors. Some, especially root vegetables, don’t like being transplanted because their roots are easily disturbed. These should go straight into the garden once the soil is ready. Think carrots, radishes, and beets.

Others, particularly heat-loving plants or those with a long growing season, benefit from being started inside. These include:

• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Eggplants
• Broccoli
• Cauliflower
• Brussels sprouts

These plants are either sensitive to cold or need extra time to mature, so giving them a head start indoors is beneficial. For more information on starting seeds indoors, check out Starting Seeds Indoors Using Peat Pellets.

When and How to Transplant

Once your seedlings have outgrown their starter trays or small pots, it’s time to think about transplanting. If it’s still too chilly to plant them outdoors, move them to slightly larger containers and keep them growing indoors.

About a week before planting them in the garden, begin the “hardening off” process—this means gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions. Set them outside for a few hours each day, slowly increasing their exposure to wind, sun, and cooler temperatures. This helps prevent transplant shock and toughens them up for life in the garden.

Conclusion

Gardening is as much about timing as it is about technique. While it can be tough to wait, especially when the spring sun is shining, resisting the urge to plant too early can mean the difference between thriving plants and a garden full of frost damage. So, start indoors when it makes sense, wait for the frost-free dates, and you’ll be rewarded with a strong, healthy garden all season long.

Tips to Safeguard Your Lawn from Pet Damage

Our beloved pets bring joy to our lives, but they can also be quite hard on our lawns. From digging holes to causing yellow patches, pets can inflict considerable damage on our green spaces. However, there’s no need to fret! With a few straightforward techniques, you can maintain a vibrant and healthy lawn while enjoying your pets’ company. Here are some tips from Feeds’n Needs to help you safeguard your lawn from pet damage.

Establish a Pet Zone

A highly effective method to protect your lawn is to designate a specific area for your pets to relieve themselves. Opt for a gravel or mulch zone, which is easier to clean and less prone to damage from pet urine. Training your pets to use this area may require some patience, but it’s a worthwhile investment in the long run.

Hydrate Your Lawn Frequently

Pet urine is rich in nitrogen, which can scorch grass and create yellow spots. To counteract this, water the affected areas immediately after your pet urinates. This helps dilute the nitrogen and prevent damage. Regular watering of your entire lawn also contributes to its overall health and durability.

Utilize Lawn Protection Products

There are various products available that can help shield your lawn from pet damage.

1. Grass Seed & Fertilizer: Feeds’n Needs offers a variety of grass seeds and fertilizers to help maintain a healthy lawn. We also provide erosion control products.
2. Lawn Protection Supplements: Select Feeds’n Needs locations carry supplements for pets, that can contain probiotics and enzymes to neutralize the nitrogen in pet urine, which are an immune boost to pets and helps prevent yellow spots on your lawn. Always consult an expert or veterinarian before adding any new supplement to your pet’s diet.
3. Lime: Feeds’n Needs carries calcitic lime, which can help improve soil quality and promote healthy grass growth.
4. Decorative Fencing and Barriers: Decorative fencing and rocks can create statement pieces that also help protect specific areas of your lawn.

Practice Proper Lawn Maintenance

A well-maintained lawn is more resilient to pet damage. Mow your lawn to a height of 2.5-3 inches, as longer grass can better endure wear and tear. Regular aeration and fertilization promote strong root growth and overall lawn health.

Implement Barriers

If your pet has a preferred digging spot, consider creating a barrier to protect that area. Decorative fencing, rocks, or shrubs can deter your pet from digging. Providing a designated digging area, such as a sandbox, can also satisfy their natural instincts without harming your lawn.

Best Time to Prune Trees

Pruning your trees is an essential part of tree care that, when done correctly, can keep your trees healthy, enhance their shape, and even boost fruit production. The key to successful pruning is determined by timing. So, when exactly should you prune trees?
The answer depends on several factors: the type of tree, your pruning goals, and the climate in your area. Let’s break it down to help you determine the best time to grab those shears.

General Pruning Window: Late Winter to Early Spring
For most deciduous trees, the sweet spot for pruning is late winter to early spring—usually between February and May. During this dormant phase, trees are less stressed, and cuts heal faster, reducing the risk of disease or pests.

This is the perfect time to:

• Shape your tree for better form and structure
• Remove dead, damaged, or diseased limbs
• Encourage healthy new growth in the spring

However, not all trees are created equal, and some have specific needs that require special attention.

Tree-Specific Pruning Guidelines

1. Maples, Walnuts, and Birches
   These trees are known for “bleeding” sap if pruned too early. To avoid stressing them, wait until late spring or early summer, once their leaves have fully emerged. The sap loss isn’t typically harmful, but it’s best avoided.
2. Fruit Trees (Apples, Pears, etc.)
   For a strong harvest, prune these trees in late winter, from February to early April. This boosts flower and fruit production and keeps the tree’s structure manageable.
3. Oaks and Elms
   These trees are vulnerable to serious diseases like oak wilt. Avoid pruning them between April 15 and October 15, when disease-carrying insects are active. Instead, prune in late fall or winter to reduce the risk.
4. Spring-Flowering Trees (Magnolias, Dogwoods, etc.)
   Prune after their blooming cycle is complete. This way, you won’t accidentally cut off next year’s buds before they even have a chance to shine.
5. Dead or Damaged Branches
   These should be removed as soon as you spot them, no matter the season. Prompt pruning helps prevent the spread of disease and avoids potential hazards.

Why You Should Avoid Fall Pruning
It might be tempting to tidy up trees in the fall, but it’s generally not recommended. Pruning in late autumn can stimulate new growth that’s too tender to withstand winter conditions. Save major cuts for dormant or post-bloom periods instead.

Pruning Tips for Success

• Use the Right Tools: Sharp, clean pruning shears make cleaner cuts and help prevent infections.
• Think Ahead: Always consider the natural shape and growth pattern of your tree before making cuts. Strategic pruning now leads to stronger, better-looking trees later.
• Don’t Overdo It: Avoid removing more than 25% of a tree’s canopy in one season unless it’s for safety or disease management.

Quick Pruning Guide
To help you stay on track, here’s a simple pruning schedule for different types of trees:

By pruning at the right time and using the right techniques, you can set your trees up for a long, healthy life—and maybe even a bumper crop of fruit!
So go ahead—grab those shears and give your trees the care they deserve. Happy pruning!

Gardener’s Guide to Soil pH

If you’ve noticed your plants struggling to thrive, one possible culprit could be an imbalance in your soil pH. The pH level of your soil is essential for plant health and can directly affect the growth and vitality of everything in your garden. It may seem like a small detail, but soil pH plays a huge role in how well your plants can absorb nutrients and flourish. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, understanding soil pH can make all the difference. Here’s everything you need to know to keep your plants happy and healthy!

What is Soil pH?
Soil pH measures how acidic or alkaline the soil is. The “pH” stands for “potential hydrogen,” which refers to the concentration of hydrogen ions in the soil. The more hydrogen present, the lower the pH (acidic), and the less hydrogen, the higher the pH (alkaline). The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, where 7 is neutral. Soils with a pH of 4-6.5 are acidic, while soils with a pH of 7.5-9 are alkaline. Most plants thrive in soil with a pH around 6.5. When pH levels fall below 5 or exceed 7, it becomes toxic for many plants.

Why is Soil pH Important to the Garden?
Soil pH directly impacts your plants’ ability to absorb nutrients. Plants require 14 of the 17 essential nutrients from the soil, and the pH level determines how available these nutrients are. Generally, slightly acidic soils (pH 6-7) provide the best environment for nutrient availability, allowing plants to grow and flourish. If the soil pH is out of balance, plants can struggle to access vital nutrients, even if they’re present in the soil.
Additionally, soil pH affects the beneficial microorganisms that help decompose organic matter. In highly acidic soil, these bacteria can’t function properly, causing nutrient buildup that plants can’t access.

Causes for Acidic or Alkaline Soil
Soil pH can vary depending on location. Dry, sandy areas tend to have more alkaline soils, while moist climates often result in more acidic soil due to rain washing away calcium and magnesium. The type of rock in your area also influences soil pH. For instance, areas with abundant lime will likely have more alkaline soil. Understanding your local soil composition helps you work with nature, not against it.

How to Test Your Soil’s pH
Testing your soil’s pH is the first step toward a healthier garden. A simple home testing kit can provide an accurate reading. Here’s how to use it:

1. Collect soil samples from various spots in your garden.
2. Mix the samples for an average result.
3. Follow the instructions provided with your test kit.

Knowing your soil’s pH makes it easier to adjust it if necessary.

How to Raise Soil pH
If your soil is too acidic, you can raise the pH by adding garden lime. Lime, a finely ground limestone, is available at Feeds’n Needs and helps neutralize acidity. Be cautious not to overapply, as too much lime can harm plants. To adjust the pH, apply lime in the fall, then rototill or turn the soil to ensure it mixes well with the ground.

How to Lower Soil pH
Lowering soil pH is often easier than raising it. If your soil is too alkaline, consider using raised garden beds filled with high-quality soil. If raised beds aren’t an option, sulfur can help lower soil pH. Mix the sulfur into the soil before planting. Additionally, materials like sawdust, peat moss, wood chips, and leaf mold can help reduce soil pH, especially when combined with sulfur.

Balancing Soil pH with Compost
Adding compost is a great way to stabilize your soil’s pH. The rich organic material in compost acts as a buffer, preventing drastic pH fluctuations that can stress your plants. You can make your own compost or purchase processed manure to enrich your soil.

Soil pH is a key factor in maintaining a healthy garden. By understanding and adjusting your soil’s pH, you can ensure your plants have access to the nutrients they need to thrive. Gardening is a journey, and getting to know the specific needs of your plants—like soil pH—will help you create a lush, vibrant outdoor space. Take the time to test and adjust your soil’s pH, and your plants will thank you with healthy growth and bountiful blooms!

Sources:
The Ultimate Gardener’s Guide to Soil pH | Blain’s Farm & Fleet Blog
Understanding Soil pH: Here’s What Every Gardener Needs to Know