Calving Supplies Checklist

When it comes to the birth of new calves, things sometimes go differently than planned. From difficult labor and delivery to dealing with sick, cold newborns, when you’re expecting a pregnant cow to give birth, you need to be prepared for any scenario. Make sure your calving kit is fully stocked and ready to go prior to the due date of the first calf so that even if it’s born early, you’ll be prepared. Our calving supply checklist is a great guide to help you make sure you have everything you need this calving season!

Veterinarian Contact Information

If you plan to own and breed cattle, you’ll want to make sure you know who your local farm veterinarian is and keep their contact information on file in case of an emergency. It’s not uncommon for a cow to require assistance to deliver her calf; however, sometimes, if the farmer cannot get the calf out, a veterinarian must be called to the farm to perform emergency measures. 

Notebook & Pencil

Keep a detailed record of important information, including breeding and due dates, so you have a rough idea of when to expect calves. Record newborn calves’ birth date, sex, birth weight, and any additional information such as the ID numbers of each cow and calf pair, whether or not a bull calf has been castrated, and any health issues noticed.

Calving Pen

Calving areas should be sheltered from cold weather, have clean straw or shavings for bedding, and ideally have a functional chute in case of emergencies requiring medical intervention. Make sure your calving pen has adequate lighting and keep a flashlight close by in case you need to inspect a cow or calf. Stock up on dust-free chopped straw or wood shavings at your local Feeds ‘n Needs.

Heating & Drying Sources

Since they are born covered in amniotic fluid, calves must be quickly dried and warmed up after birth to prevent them from developing hypothermia. A cow should be allowed to lick her calf clean after delivery; however, in cases of cold weather or if the mother does not clean her baby, have towels and blankets ready to dry the calf off and stimulate blood circulation. If a newborn gets chilled, have a warming box or other heat source like hair dryers and heat lamps ready to use to get the calf warm. Use a thermometer to keep track of calves’ temperatures, especially if they are sick or hypothermic. Always sterilize thermometers after use.

Gloves & OB Lubricant

Keep boxes of long and short disposable gloves to protect you and your animals from bacteria entering the body, and always change gloves between working with different animals. If a cow requires assistance delivering her calf, have lots of regular obstetrical lubricant on hand to lubricate the birth canal and your gloved arms to reduce friction and swelling. If your cow may require a C-section, avoid using J-lube to try and get the calf out, as it is toxic to the peritoneal cavity and will be fatal to the cow.

Halter, Rope & OB Chains

Ensure you have clean OB chains and handles ready in case you have to intervene and assist a cow during delivery. Additionally, have a halter and long rope prepared for laying down a cow to make delivery easier. 

Disinfectant

A 7% iodine solution or chlorhexidine should be used to dip the calf’s navel after birth to keep it clean and disinfected. Additionally, you can add these disinfectants to a bucket or squeeze bottle of water to create wash water for cleaning the cow after delivery. Roll cotton soaked in this disinfectant water also works well to wash the cow.

Colostrum & Milk Replacer

The colostrum, or “first milk” a pregnant cow produces, is rich with antibodies and nutrients, which are vital for her calf to receive in the first 4 to 6 hours after birth. Calves should be standing and nursing on their own within 1 hour. Otherwise, you may need to intervene. If you are worried that a calf is not getting colostrum, or if you have a calf too weak to nurse on their own, frozen colostrum or dried colostrum mixed with warm water should be readily available to administer to the calf. Colostrum replacer products should contain a minimum of 100g of lgG per dose. Keep powdered milk replacer on hand for calves that will be bottle fed. Trust Feeds ‘n Needs to provide you with the best quality powdered colostrum and milk replacers to help your calves grow and thrive.

Feeding Supplies

A flexible stomach feeding tube and large syringe may need to be used to administer colostrum to weak or sick calves that are unable to suckle. Be sure to sterilize supplies between calves or keep a second stomach tube on hand to feed sick calves only. Additionally, keep bottle feeding supplies like calf bottles and extra nipples on hand to bottle feed calves that are stronger and able to suckle.

Needles & Syringes

Keep an assortment of sterile needles and syringes in your calving kit for administering supplements, vaccines, antibiotics, or other medications as per your veterinarian’s recommendation. 

Use a bulb syringe to suction amniotic fluid out of newborn’s noses so they can breathe.

Injectables & Supplements

Administering supplements of the vitamins A, D, E, and selenium, as well as a mix of electrolytes for calves, is recommended for newborns. Our experts recommend the AVL Vitaferst-Care oral neonatal supplement for ruminants to give your calves the best start at life. Medications and vaccinations can be administered as per your veterinarian’s recommendation. Additionally, it’s always beneficial to keep scour pills or a prevention solution on hand in the event a calf develops scours and requires immediate treatment. If you do not have access to scour pills from your vet, we recommend administering Calf Renova at the first signs of diarrhea or Calf Perk to get a cold, weak calf to its feet after birth. Ask your local Feeds’ n Needs experts about product availability. 

ID Equipment

Each head of cattle in Canada is required to have a registered CCIA tag before being transported from their farm of origin. These can be bought from an authorized dealer like your local Feeds ‘n Needs store. In addition to CCIA tags, you may want to tag your cattle with an on-farm ID tag, which should be done within the first few days of a calf’s life as cows sometimes swap calves, making future genetic selections inaccurate if calves were not tagged at birth. If you plan to give your calves tattooed ID numbers, ensure all your equipment is clean and in good working order.

Elastrator Rings & Tool

If you plan on castrating bull calves, you will need to make sure you have elastrator rings and the proper elastrator tool. Castration of bull calves is typically done between 1 week and 5 months of age. Be sure to record which calves are being castrated and which are not.

When it comes to calving, expect the unexpected and always be prepared. Stop by your local Feeds ‘n Needs to pick up some essential calving kit items so that you’ll be ready when the first calf arrives!

 

Disclaimer: Feeds ‘n Needs is not qualified to give medical advice or recommendations; please consult your veterinarian for any concerns, vaccine recommendations, etc. 

Lambing Supplies Checklist

The arrival of new lambs can be exciting and busy, so the best way to guarantee a smooth lambing season is to ensure you are well-prepared in advance. In this blog, we will review the essential supplies that every shepherd should have on hand before the arrival of any lambs. 

Notebook & Pencil

Have a notebook to record all contact between ewes and rams, and use a gestation table to calculate approximate due dates. Knowing roughly when to expect lambs to be born allows you to ensure you have all supplies on hand at least a week before due dates. 

Use this notebook to keep track of other things, such as ewe and lamb ID numbers or colors, any health issues you have noticed, etc.

Lambing Pen

Ewes and their newborns should have an isolated pen away from the rest of the flock for the first several days after birth to allow a safe place for them to bond. The pen should be at least 5’ x 5’, and bedding should be kept clean and dry to prevent infection, especially after lambs are born. 

Lighting

Keep bright flashlights or headlamps nearby if your barn does not have great lighting. If a lamb arrives at night, you’ll need a good light source to assist the ewe and her newborn.

Heat Sources

Newborn lambs are susceptible to hypothermia, so several methods to warm a chilled lamb can be vital to survival. Hair dryers, warming boxes, and heat lamps are all great ways to get a lamb warm after birth when used with caution. You can also place a lamb’s body in a plastic bag with its head sticking out and sit it in a warm water bath to quickly raise its body temperature without affecting its smell.

Digital Thermometer
Monitor lamb’s temperature to ensure it isn’t too cold or sick. A normal temperature for a lamb is 38.8°C to 39.4°C, if the temperature drops below 37.7°C, the lamb is hypothermic.

Towels and Paper Towel

Lambs are born covered in amniotic fluid which the mother ewe should clean off. While this is important for their bonding, you may need to assist the ewe and help get the baby dry using towels or paper towels to prevent the lamb from getting cold.

Bulb Syringe

The use of a bulb syringe may be required to suck any amniotic fluid out of a newborn lamb’s nostrils after birth to allow it to breathe.

Iodine Spray or Dip

Whether or not you decide to cut a newborn lamb’s umbilical cord using sterile scissors, the navel can serve as a pathogen pathway to a lamb, and it is vital that the area be kept clean. Use a 10% iodine spray or dip solution to keep the area disinfected, and make sure that the lambing pen has clean bedding. 

Lubricant

Keep some OB lubricant on hand in case it’s needed. This can be helpful to lube up a thermometer, getting a lamb’s head unstuck during birth, or lubricating your arm and any needed birthing tools if the ewe requires help while giving birth. 

Gloves

Keep boxes of long and short gloves to use when handling lambs and ewes to prevent bacteria from entering your body. Be sure to use different gloves when handling different sheep to avoid the potential spread of infection.

Colostrum & Milk Replacer

Lambs need to nurse during the first 24 hours of their life to receive the nutrients and antibodies from the ewe’s first milk, called colostrum. Before a lamb can nurse, you must strip the wax plug from the ewe’s teats and ensure her milk flows. If a lamb is rejected by its mother, or if you have a lamb that is too weak to nurse, have powdered or frozen colostrum that you can warm and feed to them as they must receive this vital colostrum within their first 8 hours of life. It is also a good idea to keep a lamb milk replacer on hand in case of a rejected lamb that may need to be bottle-reared. 

Feeding Supplies

A flexible stomach feeding tube and large syringe can feed weak or cold lambs that can’t suckle on their own. Additionally, keep bottle-feeding supplies on hand, including lamb bottles and nipples, to feed stronger and able-to-suckle lambs, such as a triplet or rejected lamb. 

Needles & Syringes

Have a variety of sterile needles and syringes to be used to administer any injectables or vaccines as recommended by your veterinarian. 

Injectables & Supplements

Injectable vitamins A, D, and E with Selenium may be given after birth, as well as injectable antibiotics or vaccines per your veterinarian’s recommendation. Additionally, it can be beneficial to keep a propylene glycol solution on hand to help an exhausted ewe regain her energy after birth. This is especially helpful for ewes who have given birth to twins or triplets. 

Elastrator Rings and Tool

If you plan on castrating ram lambs not intended for breeding, you will want to make sure you have elastrator rings and the appropriate elastrator tool to castrate within the first week of the ram’s life. The same rings and tool can be used to dock a lamb’s tail. Unless you plan on leaving your lambs with their natural long tails, they will need to be docked within the first few days of their lives.

ID Tags & Applicator

Animals intended to be sold and shipped must have registered CCIA tags which can be purchased from an authorized dealer. You may also want to tag your lambs using a different tag to use as an on-farm ID. Use your notebook to keep track of animal ID’s!

Marker Crayons or Spray

Identify your animals more easily by marking your ewes and lambs with colored ID-marking crayons or sprays. Use this method to keep track of twin lambs, mother and lamb pairs, banded ram lambs, etc. Keep notes of your ewes and their lambs in your notebook.

Get prepared for lambing season with a trip to your local Feeds ‘n Needs! Our stores carry a variety of essential supplies to ensure that you can be well-prepared for the arrival of new lambs! Our Experts will be happy to help you find what you need!

 

Disclaimer: Feeds ‘n Needs is not qualified to give medical advice or recommendations; please consult your veterinarian for any concerns, vaccine recommendations, etc. 

Easy Easter DIYs Using Eggs

Springtime is all about bright colors, new beginnings, and creativity. What better way to welcome the season and have some Easter-themed fun than decorating eggs? This blog provides a step-by-step guide to making three easy Easter crafts that the whole family will love!

Blowing Eggs
Before starting any of our Easter egg DIYs, you’ll need to remove the yolks from all the eggs you’ll be working with.

What You’ll Need:

  • Eggs
  • Pin (you can also use a needle or sharp metal skewer)
  • Cocktail stick or wooden skewer
  • Paper clip (optional)
  • Bowl

Step 1: Using your pin or needle, carefully poke a hole in the top and bottom of your egg. Gently insert your cocktail stick or skewer into the hole to gradually increase its size. The hole in the bottom of the egg needs to be big enough for the yolk to pass through, but be careful not to crack the egg in the process.

Step 2 (Optional): Use a straightened paper clip to “stir” the yolk inside the egg, making it easier to blow through the hole you made.

Step 3: Hold your egg over a bowl and blow as hard as you can into one of the holes in your egg. The yolk should start coming out the other end. You won’t need the yolk for these projects, but you can set them aside to use for cooking later!

Step 4: Now that the yolks are out of the eggs, rinse them under hot tap water to remove any residue. Once rinsed, leave the shells out to dry.

DIY #1 – Painting Eggs
Test your painting skills by getting creative with eggs! Paint stripes, patterns, splatters, and more! The design options for this DIY are endless!

What You’ll Need:

  • Eggs with yolks blown out
  • Acrylic paint
  • Cocktail stick or skewer
  • Paint brushes
  • Sponge (optional)

Step 1: Insert a cocktail stick or skewer into the bottom hole of your egg to keep it away from your fingers while you paint.

Step 2: Use paintbrushes or a sponge to apply paint to your egg. Get creative with this part!

Step 3: Let the paint dry while your egg is still on the skewer by holding the skewer in a glass.

Step 4: Once your paint is dry, add a second coat to brighten the colors or add more designs! Leave your egg on the skewer until you are done painting and the egg is dry.

DIY #2 – Dyeing Eggs
Use food coloring or natural dyes with ingredients from around your home to create beautiful, dyed eggs that are the perfect Easter decorations! We will teach you how to dye eggs using food coloring for this DIY.

What You’ll Need:

  • Eggs with yolks blown out
  • Vinegar
  • Food coloring (your choice of colors)
  • Measuring spoons
  • Kitchen tongs
  • Paper towels
  • Heat-proof bowls (one bowl for each color of food coloring)
  • Crayons (optional)

Step 1: Prep your work area by laying down paper towels to prevent food coloring stains.

Step 2: To make your dyes, bring some water to a boil, then add 1 teaspoon of vinegar and about 20 drops of food coloring. The more food coloring you add, the more vibrant your dye color will be. Pour your mixture into a heat-proof bowl deep enough to dip your eggs in.

Step 3 (Optional): You can use crayons to create fun patterns and designs by drawing directly on the egg before you dye it. The dye pigment will not stick to the wax, so whatever you draw will stand out after you dip your egg!

Step 4: When you’re ready to dye your egg, use a pair of kitchen tongs to submerge the egg into your bowl of coloring. Make multicolor eggs, striped eggs, patterned eggs – You can be as creative as you want with this part!

Step 5: Remove your eggs from the dye using your kitchen tongs and set them out to air dry when finished.

DIY #3 – Jello Filled Eggs
This DIY project is a fun way to make a tasty treat that can also be a great April fool’s prank! You can paint or dye your eggs before you add the Jello to add to the fun and make this a 2-part project or leave them plain and give someone a surprise when their egg turns out to be Jello!

What You’ll Need:

  • Eggs with yolks blown out
  • Packets of Jello (Your choice of flavor)
  • A fine pastry tip
  • Egg carton
  • Duct tape

Step 1: Use a small piece of duct tape over the hole in the bottom of your eggs to seal it closed, then place your eggs tape-side down back into the carton.

Step 2: Follow the instructions on the package to prepare your Jello mixture. Try making different flavors to add variety to your eggs!

Step 3: Once your Jello mix is ready, insert a fine pastry tip into the top hole of your egg and carefully pour the liquid Jello into the egg. Be careful not to overfill the egg, as the liquid will be hot.

Step 4: Once you’ve filled all your eggs, place the carton in the fridge to allow the Jello to set. This should take 2-3 hours.

Step 5: Once the Jello has set completely inside your eggs, open the shells and enjoy this tasty Easter treat!

Have fun and get creative this spring using everyday kitchen items and eggs from your own backyard! From all of us at Feeds ‘n Needs, we hope you try these Easter DIYs and have a great time making them!

Sources:
https://www.marthastewart.com/275626/egg-dyeing-101

Homemade Jell-O Eggs


https://www.marthastewart.com/266591/blowing-out-an-egg

Tapping Maple Trees for Sap
Tapping Maple Trees for Sap

Tapping Maple Trees for Sap

There comes a time of year when the days begin to get warmer, and hope for spring is in the air. After a long, cold winter, these are the days we look forward to. The snow begins to melt, and the sap starts to flow within the trees. For many families in Canada, tapping trees in the springtime is an eagerly awaited annual tradition and an easy and fun way to collect sap to make homemade maple goodies.

Getting Started

Generally, sap begins to flow when the daytime temperatures rise above freezing (0 Celsius / 32 Fahrenheit) and nighttime temperatures fall below freezing. Typically, the season runs for 4-6 weeks, from around mid-February to mid-March. Sap only flows on warm days, so you may not get any on colder days.

Tapping trees is a relatively straightforward process and only requires a few supplies to get started:

  • Power drill & drill bit
  • Spiles
  • Sap buckets & lids
  • Hammer

Some of our local Feeds’n Needs stores carry a great selection of quality sap supplies; be sure to check them out!

Before tapping trees each season, it is important to ensure your supplies are clean. A solution of 1 part unscented household bleach to 20 parts clean water can be used to clean your spiles, buckets, and lids.

Selecting Trees to Tap

When selecting which trees to tap, a maple tree with a high sugar content will produce the best sap for making syrup. Popular maple trees for tapping are sugar, black, red, and silver maples. Select healthy and mature trees with a diameter of at least 12″. Depending on the size, some trees can support more than one tap.

A general guide to follow when tapping trees:

  • 12 – 20” = 1 tap
  • 21 – 27” = 2 taps
  • 27” = 3 taps

How to Tap Trees

Spile Placement: When tapping a tree, place your spile at least 3 feet from the ground and at least 6 inches away from any former tap holes. Tap above a large root or below a branch on the south side of the tree if possible, and if placing multiple taps on one tree, distribute the spiles around the tree’s circumference.

Drill a Hole: Most spiles require a 7/16 or 5/16 drill bit, but double-check to ensure that you use a drill bit that matches the size of your spile. Drill a hole about 2 to 2 ½ inches deep so that you hit the sapwood of the tree. Drill slightly upward to allow the sap to flow downward through your spile and into your bucket.

Insert Your Spile: Insert your spile into the tap hole you drilled. Then, gently tap the spile into place using a hammer so that it fits snugly within the hole. Once the spile is placed, you should begin to see sap start to drip or flow. Maple sap is clear and resembles water.

Hang Your Bucket: Hang your sap bucket by inserting the hook on the spile into the hole in the bucket’s rim. Attach a lid to prevent unwanted snow or debris from collecting in the bucket with your sap.

Sap can be collected until the temperature consistently stays above freezing or when buds begin to form on trees. Remove spiles and wash them to be stored for next season.

Once you collect your sap, keep it cold at 38 degrees Fahrenheit or 3.3 degrees Celsius until you boil it. Sap can be stored for up to 7 days at this temperature.

Now that you’ve learned how to tap trees to collect maple sap, you are well on your way to becoming an expert and enjoying this beloved Canadian tradition. Feel free to ask your local Feeds’ n Needs experts any questions you may have about tree tapping and sap collection. Be sure to check out our great selection of supplies to get you started!

Livestock bedding options
Livestock bedding options

Livestock Bedding Options

When it comes to providing your livestock with bedding, making sure it’s clean, absorbent and comfortable is a must. There are several options for materials that you can use to place under your animals in their enclosure to ensure overall well-being. Organic materials are usually best, as they contain lower levels of bacteria counts, resulting in better air quality and less discomfort (and will consequently result in less sores and other harmful ailments). While the type of flooring, animal breed and population density of animals in the enclosure matter when choosing the right bedding, here are a few good organic options to consider when making an informed decision for your furry friends.

Vegetable Litter for bedding

Plant litter is arguable the least harmful option for the environment, as it’s ecological and biodegradable and can be a great solution for your poultry flock! It’s mainly composed of natural elements, like wood chips, hay or pellets and is mainly used for animal enclosures.

Ripe wood

If you opt for a wood-based litter, it’s recommended to use soft wood that’s specially treated for composting purposes if you want better absorption quality. Like wood shavings, which are both absorbent and comfortable for farm animals. An interesting aspect of plant litter is that it doesn’t produce much dust, which benefits the respiratory health of the animals.

Hay and straw

Hay or straw are also materials used to create bedding for farm animals. Hay is cut and dried legumes and or grasses and is commonly used for feed, but lower qualities of hay are great for bedding purposes. Ensuring the quality of the hay is not palatable so animals don’t consume it.

If you’re considering using hay or straw, it’s important to know that there’s a bit more upkeep required due to the lower levels of absorbency than some other litter options. Another thing to consider is to ensure the quality of the hay or straw is older and dry when you are spreading it, as old hay may give off dust, resulting in potential respiratory damage in animals. When they have a high level of humidity, the risk of mold increases which rapidly grows bacteria that can be harmful to your animals.

Peat moss

Within the vegetable little category, you can also find peat moss as an option. This type of litter is becoming increasingly popular, as it tends to be more absorbent than wood or hay and it helps eliminate the amount of flies in facilities. Peat moss has a controlled PH, which helps to reduce odors and the amount of ammonia in the litter. This bedding has even been known to help improve areas of animal health, including udders, legs and airways. 

Sources:

https://monvet.com/fr/fiche-informative/85/differentes-sortes-de-litieres

https://www.zoomalia.com/blog/article/quelle-litiere-choisir-pour-mon-chat.html

https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liti%C3%A8re

https://ag.umass.edu/sites/ag.umass.edu/files/fact-sheets/pdf/Bedding%2008-05.pdf

https://www.meunerievicto.com/fr/

https://www.meunerieacadienne.com/quoi-mettre-dans-les-enclos/