Growing Sprouts Year-Round
Growing sprouts from seeds is something we can all do— regardless of space, time or gardening experience. Sprouts are highly nutritious and packed with vitamins, minerals, and so much more! They can be easily germinated on your kitchen counter. They will be ready to eat in just a few days, and you can grow them all year round! You don’t have to have a green thumb to grow sprouts; you just have to add a small habit to your daily schedule and grab a couple of supplies to get started.
What Are Sprouts?
A sprout is exactly what it sounds like—a germinated seed. It’s a seed that’s been soaked and allowed to sprout, but instead of growing into a full plant, it’s harvested and eaten during the early sprouting stage.
The Benefits of Growing Sprouts
Sprouts Grow Fast
Since we’re harvesting the plants at their earliest growth stage, there’s no need to wait for them to develop roots, flowers, or fruit. You can enjoy your first batch of sprouts in just a few days.
Sprouts Don’t Require Much Space
You can grow enough sprouts to toss in your salads and sandwiches in a small space, such as next to your kitchen sink.
Sprouts are Super Nutritious
When you eat sprouts, you get the seed’s initial nutrition. All those vitamins and minerals that would have eventually spread to dozens of leaves, stems, and fruit can be enjoyed in just one bite. The exact nutrients you’ll get will depend on the type of sprout you’re eating.
Sprouts Can be Grown Year-Round
You can start growing sprouts when ever you like. It doesn’t matter if the ground is frozen or a storm is coming. Sprouts are not affected by the weather outside, only by the environment you create for them inside. That means you can enjoy the garden-fresh flavour all year long, no matter where you live.
Most Common Sprouting Seeds
While you can technically sprout just about any seed, nut or bean/legume, the most common seeds to sprout and eat are:
- Mung beans
- Lentils
- Alfalfa
- Clover
- Radish
- Broccoli
- Sunflower
- Peas
Some seeds can be dangerous to sprout and eat raw, such as kidney beans and tomato seeds, which are two examples of seeds that produce toxins when sprouted. Always stick to using designated sprouting seeds, such as Mumm’s Sprouts, available at Feeds’n Needs.
What You Need to Grow Sprouts
1. A wide-mouthed jar
2. A bowl or drain rack that allows you to invert the jar at an angle.
3. A sprouting lid, or some screen or netting with a rubber band.
5. Freshwater. If you would drink the water then it’s fine to use!
6. Seeds with good germination, preferably grown for human consumption.
Step-by-Step How to Grow Sprouts
Soaking
Put 1-2 tbsp of small seed, or ¼ – ½ cup of large seed in the jar. Rinse with water and drain. Add water to the jar and let the seeds soak in the jar for approximately 2 hours (broccoli family), 6 hours (small seeds) or 12 hours (bigger grains or beans) in enough water to allow them to swell completely. Affix your sprouting lid or screen and rubber band. After soaking, pour out the water through the screen.
Sprouting
Place the jar away from direct sunlight upside down and on an angle to allow the excess water to drain out and air to circulate. Rinse twice daily.
Harvesting
If you sprouted beans or grains for 2 days, they are now ready to eat without a final rinse, and leftovers can be stored in the fridge. After 4-5 days of sprouting, leafy sprouts should be rinsed as usual, grown for half a day, and stored in the refrigerator.
Storing
Well-drained sprouts should be kept in the fridge for up to 10 days. Optional: put folded paper towel on top of the sprouts in the jar. Put the lid on and refrigerate turned upside down to remove excess moisture.
Ways to Use Sprouts
Sprouts are a fantastic and healthy addition to salads, sandwiches, soups, stir-fries, and smoothies. Try adding alfalfa sprouts to sandwiches with deli meat, fresh tomatoes, and avocado for a nutritious boost. For a spicy kick, toss some radish sprouts into your next salad. You can also use sprouted beans instead of regular soaked beans in bean salads for extra nutrition, or even make sprouted bean chilli! Add bean sprouts to stir-fries for a crunchy, nutritious twist. The possibilities are endless, and you can easily swap sprouts for their full-grown or seed counterparts in nearly any recipe. Growing sprouts is a great way to grow food indoors year-round and opens up endless opportunities to experiment with healthy, homemade dishes.
Happy sprout growing!
Why Keep Cows Inside in Winter
Keeping your cattle outside in the Maritimes during winter is viable but requires careful thought and good management. For many producers, indoor wintering is preferable. Many dairy breeds do not do well in the cold as their bodies don’t grow the coat and have the extra pounds like beef breeds. Keeping your cows inside in the winter helps keep them out of the elements and ensures they always have water. It also prevents any falling ice or calves from being born outside. Our blog will guide you with some important practices on why to keep cows inside throughout the winter season.
Slower Winter Growth Rates:
Slower growth rates in winter mean less plant coverage on the soil to protect it. The same cattle hooves that benefited the soil through trampling of pasture in summer now become damaging as they expose bare patches of soil that are vulnerable to erosion. Waterlogged soils quickly turn to mud with cattle roaming above. This makes it very difficult for plant species to grow, and the pasture will take a very long time to recover.
On top of this, there isn’t enough forage to sustain the cattle through the whole winter. During the autumn season, hay is often taken to the cows on the pasture so they can stay outside despite being unable to forage the field. However, moving cows inside in late autumn is a good idea to give the pasture time to recover through the winter and prevent overgrazing.
Overwintering Inside:
Cattle need a constant supply of fresh air to minimize disease, predominantly pneumonia. Stale air increases the spread of the infection and the number of vulnerable animals. The age of the cattle, stage of production, and health and body condition of the cattle all need to be considered and will have challenges coping with severe weather.
Shelter:
Keeping your cows inside during the winter ensures they will be warm and will not require you to provide extra bedding to help dry them out if they get muddy or extra outdoor shelter to protect them from harsh weather conditions.
Feeding:
If you decide to overwinter your cattle, you will likely have to invest in more feed and better quality forage to help provide them with additional energy. Housing them inside will help keep your costs down in the winter.
For more information on keeping cows inside in winter, visit your local Feeds’n Needs and chat with one of our Experts!
Disclaimer: This is general information, it is important to do what works best for you and your cattle.
How to Care for Molting Chickens
As fall days get shorter and temperatures begin to drop, you may start to notice that your chickens are losing feathers and their egg production is slowing down. While this can seem alarming, your chickens are likely experiencing their annual molt, and it is typically nothing to be concerned about.
What is Molting and Why Does it Happen?
Molting is the process of shedding old, worn-out feathers, followed by the regrowth of new, healthy ones. Chickens will experience this natural, healthy process each year, typically in the fall when the days get shorter and temperatures get colder. Molting happens to replace old feathers that no longer do a good job of insulating the chicken and don’t provide protection from things like rain, wind, and snow. New feathers are grown to better protect the chicken from harsh winter weather. When molting starts, chickens will usually begin to lose the feathers around their head and neck, followed by the rest of their body.
While shorter daylight hours and colder weather are typically what triggers molting, there are a few other factors that can cause a molt to happen:
- Stress
- Dehydration
- Malnutrition
- Illness
- Extreme heat
- Broody hens who have recently hatched eggs
How Long Does Molting Last?
The duration of a molt can vary depending on the chicken. On average, molting can last anywhere from a week to several months. The way your chicken molts depends on their genetics and has a direct link to their egg-laying. A faster molt is often referred to as a “hard molt” and a slower molt is referred to as a “soft molt”. Let’s break down what that means:
Hard Molt – Chickens who experience a hard molt could look normal one day, then lose most of their feathers either overnight or over a few days. While these poor chickens may look in rough shape, their molt is typically done in a shorter amount of time than soft molting chickens. Typically, chickens who are excellent layers will experience a hard molt.
Soft Molt – Some chickens slowly experience their molt over weeks to months. This is called a slow molt. The chicken will lose its feathers slowly over time before eventually taking their time to regrow them. Chickens who aren’t consistent layers will typically experience a slow molt.
How Does Molting Affect Egg Production?
Molting requires a large amount of protein, and so does making eggs. This is why you may notice your chicken’s egg production coming to a halt for the duration of their molt, also referred to as the end of the year’s laying cycle.
How Can You Help Your Chickens While They Molt:
Increase Their Protein Intake – Typically, your laying hens feed should consist of 16-17% protein like the Shur-Gain Homestead Layer Ration, however during molting season, it is recommended to switch to a feed that has 18% protein or higher to supplement the extra protein needed to make new feathers. When your chickens start molting, consider changing their feed to Shur-Gain 19% Layer Ration or Shur-Gain 20% Breeder Ration available at your local Feeds’n Needs. If you decide not to switch their feed, you can still supplement protein in your chicken’s diet by feeding them high-protein treats such as dried mealworms or black oil sunflower seeds. Treats like scratch feed and grains can dilute protein and should not be fed while your chickens are molting.
Reduce Stress – Because the process of molting puts extra stress on a chicken’s body, we can help them out by trying our best to not add to that stress. Avoid making any significant changes like adding new flock members or moving your coop until molting season is over. Additionally, watch for any bully chickens that may be picking on other flock members. Consider separating any bullies from the rest of the group for the duration of the molt.
Limit Handling Birds – Molting can be a painful and uncomfortable process for chickens, and their skin becomes very tender and sensitive while they grow new pin feathers. Pin feathers are hard and full of nutrient-rich blood that can be easily broken or damaged. Avoid handling your chickens while they are molting as it can be painful or damaging to new pin feathers. These blood-filled feathers are often a target for bully chickens, so do your best to protect your feathered friends during their vulnerable time.
Being well-informed on the process of molting and being prepared is ultimately the best way to help your birds out as they head into their molting season this fall. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to pick up a bag of high-protein feed and ask one of the Experts to show you some protein-packed treats your chickens will love!
Check out these blog posts for more poultry care tips and how-to’s!
Hens Health Throughout the Seasons
Predator Proofing Your Chicken Coop
How Long Are Farm Fresh Eggs Good For
Tips for Winter Composting
There’s no reason to put composting to the sidelines over the winter. We may begin to think that our compost pile is frozen or stopped working in the winter months. It typically slows down considerably, but the organisms are just waiting to warm up a bit. Compost piles that are activity-managed in the winter will continue to decompose but at a slower pace. Keeping your compost active year-round offers many benefits, including great fuel for your garden in the spring. Here are some tips for winter composting:
Choose The Right Location
You will want to choose a spot easily accessible in the winter and away from direct sunlight or extreme weather. Do not compost near a body of water or the shore of a lake or stream. Compost can contribute unwanted nutrients to the water.
Select Your Composting Container
To help you decide on what size of a container you will need, think about how much organic waste you expect to have. You can create your own by drilling holes in the top of a large plastic storage bin or opt for a store-bought container to hold compost. Rotating bins make turning your mixture easy and help keep pests out.
Know What You Can Compost
The contents of your winter composting collection can be the same throughout the year. This includes kitchen scraps such as fruit peels, rinds or cores. Along with vegetables, including pumpkin shells and onion skins. Coffee grounds and paper filters can also go in the compost. Along with tea leaves and tea bags without any staples or stickers. Eggshells are also a great addition to compost. Composting is the best alternative to managing backyard waste and kitchen food scraps. It reduces the amount of waste you produce and supplies a beneficial soil amendment product.
Materials to Avoid
There are some materials you should avoid adding to your composting. Avoid adding meat, dairy, or oil foods to your compost, as they can attract pests and create unpleasant odors. Woody twigs and branches larger than 1/4 -inch in diameter should be put through a wood chipper before being added to your compost. Avoid wood and leaves from plants such as pine, spruce, juniper and arborvitae. Also, avoid adding plants that have been treated with weed killers.
Add Yard Clippings
Compost should have the right balance of green (nitrogen) and brown (carbon) ingredients. Since most of the scraps from your kitchen will be nitrogen-rich, be sure to add yard waste such as straw, dried leaves and plant debris.
Layering
Start by adding a layer of browns, such as dried leaves or shredded newspaper, to the bottom of your composting container. Next, add a layer of greens, like kitchen scraps and grass clippings. Continue alternating layers of browns and greens; lightly water each layer as you go to keep the compost moist.
Turn and Mix
Turning and mixing your compost helps aerate it, which speeds up the decomposition process. Use a pitchfork or shovel to turn the pile regularly, combining the outer layers into the center. You can also rotate your compost bins to make turning your mixture easy.
Monitor and Adjust
Monitoring moisture is essential when receiving a lot of rain and snow. This can be difficult with traditional compost piles, as the moisture soaks into the ground and is taken on by the compost. That is why it is a good idea to use a sealed compost container so the rain and snow melt is not a problem. Containers can still take on some water, so don’t skimp on adding dry leaves to adsorb any excess moisture. Your compost should feel moist but not wet. If it is too wet, add more dried leaves or cardboard. If it’s too dry, sprinkle it lightly with water. Your compost should be dark, crumbly and earthy-smelling. Stick your hand into the pile to test the temperature; if it’s warm, the composting process is on track.
Your compost will transform into nutrient-rich soil that will help when it’s time to start your garden in the spring. Just scoop out the finished compost and mix it into garden soil or pile it on top as mulch. Leave some compost in your container to help start the next batch!
DIY Pumpkin Dog Treats
Fall calls for pumpkin flavor everything! Our furry friends should be able to indulge in the pumpkin treats, as pumpkin is a superfood for dogs. Besides being a natural stomach soother, pumpkin also helps to remove excess water in a dog’s digestive tract. DIY Pumpkin Dog Treats are easy to make at home and contain healthy ingredients. Your pup will love these homemade treats! Check out the recipe below.
Ingredients:
3 cups old-fashioned rolled oats (old-fashioned, not the quick-cooking kind)
1 cup pumpkin puree, unsweetened (do not use pie filling)
2 large eggs (see note for alternatives)
Optional: whole-wheat or all-purpose flour, as needed for rolling
Instructions
Prep. Preheat oven to 350º F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Set aside.
Mix dough. Add oats to a clean and dry food processor. Process oats on high speed for approximately 2 minutes until they resemble coarse flour. Add pumpkin puree and eggs to the processor and pulse until the mixture forms a stiff dough.
Shape treats. To make bone-shaped treats, flour a clean work surface, and roll out the dough until about 1/4-inch thick. Use a cookie cutter to press the treats and place them on the baking sheet. They won’t expand or rise much, so the treats can lay snug. For round treats, use a small cookie scoop to dollop dough balls onto the parchment. Press each ball down with a fork, creating cross-hatch marks.
Bake. Bake the treats for 20-30 minutes or until the treats have stiffened up in texture. These treats won’t pick up much browning color. Cool completely before storing and giving to your pup!
Storing. Since these treats are made with fresh ingredients, store them in the fridge for up to 5 days in an airtight container or freeze them in a zip-tight bag for up to a month.
Notes
Eggs: If your dog is allergic to eggs, you can replace them with 1 cup of mashed bananas or applesauce.
Bonus Ingredients (to spoil your dog!)
-
- 1/4 cup creamy peanut butter (non-xylitol), reduce pumpkin puree by 1/4 cup
-
- 3-4 bacon strips, chopped – no recipe alterations needed
-
- 1/4 tsp cinnamon, for smells your dog can’t resist
By learning how to make homemade dog treats, you can customize treats they will love to your dog’s personal taste and needs. Happy baking!
Halloween Safety Tips for Pet Parents
With Halloween right around the corner, pet parents need to be extra vigilant to ensure their furry friends stay safe and happy during the festivities. From wacky costumes to spooky decorations and the excitement of trick-or-treaters coming and going, it can be easy for your pet to feel overwhelmed or find themselves in trouble. In this blog, we are sharing our expert advice on how you can keep your pets safe this Howl-O-Ween season!
Treats – Keep Them out of Pets Reach
Remember that not all human food is safe for our pets to consume. Chocolate is very toxic to dogs and cats, and if ingested, can cause severe symptoms or death. Additionally, many candies contain xylitol, a natural alternative to sugar, often used in sugar-free sweets and chewing gum. Xylitol is highly toxic to pets, and even a small amount can cause liver failure or prove to be fatal. To prevent our beloved companions from accidentally ingesting these harmful sweets, keep all candies and chocolates out of their reach. Furthermore, make sure you throw your candy wrappers in the trash when finished to prevent curious pets from ingesting them.
Decorations – Are They Pet-Friendly?
While putting up spooky decorations is a fun way to join the Halloween festivities, it’s important to remember that these chilling ghosts and goblins are novel objects to our pets and can be quite scary to them if not introduced properly. Always allow your pets to explore new things at their own pace and reward them with treats for their bravery. In addition to potentially causing anxiety, some decorations can prove to be hazardous to pets as well. Make sure all decorations are put up securely so they can’t be easily torn down or chewed on by pets, and if you have jack-o-lanterns set out, try using LED candles to prevent fire hazards if a pet knocks one over.
Costumes – Should Your Pet Wear One?
What better way to get your pets in on the Halloween fun than to dress them up in a cute costume? If your pet has never worn a costume before, it’s important to approach it slowly and read their body language as you go. Watch for body cues like flattened ears, yawning, tongue flicks, and startled jumps that may indicate your pet is uncomfortable. Having clothing put on can be very anxiety-inducing for a cat or dog, so never force them to wear something if they seem uncomfortable. Let them smell the costume and get familiar with it before putting it on, and start by only having them wear it for short periods leading up to Halloween night. Be sure to reward them with treats and never scold them for being frightened or trying to wiggle away. If you choose to dress your pet up, pick a costume that won’t limit their mobility or cover their eyes, and try to avoid costumes with dangly bits that could be easily chewed off or ingested. If you want to get your pet involved without wearing a costume, there are alternatives like Halloween-themed collars, leashes and bandanas that they may feel more comfortable wearing.
Trick or Treating – Staying Safe in The House or on The Streets
In The House – If you are staying home to hand out candy to trick-or-treaters, keep your pet’s safety in mind when preparing for Halloween night. How will your pet react to all the excitement of doorbells chiming and strangers approaching? Anxious pets may feel more comfortable being away from all the action in a dedicated, safe space where they can relax. Create a den for them in a quiet room with their favorite bed and toys where they will be safe and unable to escape from the house if they get spooked. Alternatively, leave a bowl of treats on your porch for the trick-or-treaters to prevent the doorbell from ringing and disturbing anxious pets.
On The Streets – If you plan to take your pet trick-or-treating with you, take the proper precautions to keep them safe amidst the hustle and bustle of foot traffic and spooky costumes. Ensure they are fitted with a secure collar or harness, and keep them on a tight lead close to your body while you are out. Attach an up-to-date pet ID tag to their collar before you go so that in the event they get lost in the commotion, they can be quickly returned to you when found. Also, consider having them wear reflective gear while out so that they can be easily spotted in the dark. If you have a particularly anxious dog but still want to take them trick-or-treating, it may be best to take them out earlier in the evening before it gets too dark and the streets become packed with the older trick-or-treaters.
Following our advice, you can ensure your pet has a fun and safe Howl-O-Ween season with you. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to pick up supplies like reflective collars and leashes, treats for rewarding bravery and more! While you’re there, why not get a custom pet ID tag made to ensure that you’re ready for the big night! From all of us at Feeds’n Needs, Happy Halloween and stay safe out there!
For more expert advice and fall favorites, check out our other posts!
Top 5 Favourite Pumpkin Products for Fall
How to Pick the Right Harness for Your Dog
Helping Your Dog When You Are Out
Homemade Cranberry Sauce Recipe
Here’s a quick and easy recipe for delicious homemade cranberry sauce! Whether hosting a holiday dinner or just bringing a side dish, this sauce made with fresh whole cranberries will surely impress. Check out the recipe below!
Ingredients:
⅔ cup sugar
⅓ cup light brown sugar, tightly packed
⅓ cup water
⅔ cup orange juice
12 oz cranberries rinsed and picked through — bad/bruised cranberries removed
Instructions
Combine sugars, water, and orange juice in a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat. Stir occasionally until sugars are dissolved, and bring to a boil.
Add cranberries and return to a boil.
Reduce heat to a simmer and continue to cook cranberries, stirring occasionally, 10-15 minutes or until all or most berries have burst (careful, there is some splatter) and the mixture is slightly reduced. The longer you cook your cranberries, the thicker your mixture will be, but it will also thicken up after standing.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl and allow it to cool for at least 20 minutes at room temperature.
Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.
How Do You Make Cranberry Sauce Thicker?
When cooking your cranberry sauce, you can simmer it as long as needed after your berries burst until the desired thickness is reached. Remember that your sauce will seem runnier while it’s hot and thickens as it cools and sets.
Can Cranberry Sauce Be Made in Advance?
Yes! Cranberry sauce requires a minimum of 2 hours in the refrigerator to thicken and set properly. However, you can make this holiday side dish up to a week in advance. Just be sure to store it in an airtight container.
And that’s all there is to making homemade cranberry sauce. Enjoy!
Your Complete Cat Food Buying Guide
Your feline friends are an important part of your family, so why not feed them like your family too? Buying the correct type of food can lead to a longer, happier, and healthier life for your cat. To help with your complete cat food buying guide, we’ve put together some key details below to keep in mind!
Life Stages
Kittens and adult cats have very different nutritional needs. Look for life stage descriptions when reading labels. If the label says “complete and balanced for all stages of life,” that particular food is safe for a kitten and adult cat. You’ll also find cat food designed only for “adult maintenance,” which is meant only for adult or senior cats. Kitten food will be made for “growth and reproduction” as it generally has more protein, fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. The higher amount of nutrients helps with proper growth and a healthy weight.
Ingredients
When buying cat food, it’s important to read through the ingredients. Protein, such as chicken, tuna, salmon, turkey, etc., should be within the top three ingredients, as they are listed in order by weight. Cats get their nutritional requirements from meat sources, so their diet must be meat-based. Flavour is also an essential factor. Look for food with specific proteins listed, such as beef or chicken, over generic terms like “meat-flavoured,” as cats aren’t fond of plant-based flavours and thrive on a diet consisting primarily of meat. When choosing the “right” flavour for your cat, chicken is the most popular choice as it is incredibly gentle on a cat’s digestive tract and is often enhanced with essential nutrients that improve their health. Another option is turkey. Like chicken, turkey-flavoured cat food is also easily digested. Every flavour comes with its own set of benefits; for example, fish-flavoured food should contain a healthy dose of Omega 3s.
Whether you should choose grain-free food for your cat is debatable. Grains contain carbohydrates, which your cat can use as an energy source. If you do choose to feed your cat grain-free due to allergies, their food can still be full of other carbohydrates, such as potatoes, for an extra energy source.
Specialty Food
There are many different cat food options available that help with health conditions. Premium cat food companies, such as Hills Science Diet and Royal Canin, have created specialty formulas that help cats battle mild health conditions, including urinary care, hairballs, sensitive stomach, and weight control. Consult with your veterinarian before putting your cat on a regimen of these kinds of cat food.
Dry Food vs. Canned Wet Food
When it comes to types of cat food, you have two options: wet and dry. Wet food is recommended for felines who show a lack of interest in drinking directly from the bowl. However, too much wet food intake can cause them to gain excess bulk, resulting in various health complications. On the other hand, dry food improves oral hygiene and costs less than its wet counterpart. Both dry and wet cat food have pros and cons.
Dry Cat Food:
Pros
- Less expensive
- Can be left out all-day
Cons
- Less moisture
- Less protein
- More carbs
Wet Cat Food:
Pros
- High moisture content
- More Protein
- Fewer carbs
Cons
- Easily spoils if left out
- More expensive
We recommend feeding your feline a combination of dry and wet food—dry food to keep costs down and wet supplies to help increase palatability. Mixed feeding is also beneficial because it’ll prevent your cat from developing a strict taste for a specific diet.
You now know what to look for when buying cat food. The next step is to work with your veterinarian to ensure the food you plan to purchase is appropriate for your cat’s needs. Cats’ dietary needs can vary depending on breed, life stage, and medical history.
Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to find a wide range of different cat food brands and formulas! Our experts are here to help answer any questions you may have.
For more information on your cat’s health, check out our other blogs!
Pet Obesity Awareness
Benefits of a Raw Diet
Hidden Sugars in Dog Food
How Hidden Sugar in Your Dog’s Food Can Affect Their Health
Did you know that there is a hidden ingredient in most processed dog foods that can seriously affect their health? That’s right, your dog may be consuming large amounts of sugar and starch without you even realizing it! In this blog, we will uncover the truth about hidden sugar in dog food and its impact on pet’s health.
The Role of Starch in Processed Dog Foods
According to AAFCO (Association of Food Control Officials), there is no minimum amount of carbohydrates required for dog food, and this is because they are not required for your dog’s health. So, if this is the case, why would pet food companies still put starch in their processed kibble? The answer is simple – it’s necessary for the process used to produce the kibble. When exposed to heat and moisture, starch gelatinizes and helps to bind the food together when it’s made into its final form.
The Hidden Ingredient – Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates are sugar molecules that come in the form of sugars (simple carbohydrates), starch, and fibre. When carbohydrates are eaten, the digestive system breaks them down into glucose. Glucose is sugar in the blood which the body can use for energy.
Understanding The Glycemic Load
The glycemic load of food refers to how much that food will raise blood sugar levels after it is eaten. When the glycemic load of food is high, it can cause a rapid spike in blood sugar levels, which triggers the production of insulin in the pancreas. Insulin is produced to move sugar from the blood into cells, which lowers blood glucose levels. The speed at which food is digested can impact how quickly blood glucose levels spike, triggering insulin production. It’s worth noting that carbohydrates may be digested slower if the food is high in protein and fat, meaning that blood sugar won’t rapidly spike, and insulin won’t be produced.
The Impact of a High Glycemic Load
Insulin Spikes & Obesity – As we previously discussed, when your pet eats food with a high glycemic load, it can cause a rapid spike in blood glucose levels, leading to insulin production. Insulin works to lower blood glucose levels by moving sugar from the blood and into the cells of the body, where it can be used for energy or stored as fat to be used later. Over time, eating high glycemic foods can increase blood glucose levels to be higher than your dog needs for energy, and will end up being stored as fat that is never used. This can lead to obesity and, in severe cases, can lead to insulin resistance and diabetes.
Gut Health – Harmful bacteria thrive on sugar, so when your dog eats a high-carbohydrate diet, these harmful bacteria can start to outnumber the good bacteria. This imbalance of bacteria can lead to many issues like leaky gut syndrome, autoimmune diseases, and malnutrition. Since the good bacteria in your dog’s body are responsible for making many vitamins and minerals in the intestines, when harmful bacteria outnumber the good, it can cause malnutrition, despite your dog eating a healthy amount of food in a day.
Yeast Infections – Yeast, a type of fungus, also thrives on sugar, so when your dog eats a high-carb diet causing an imbalance of bacteria, it can cause the yeast to colonize and grow out of control. This overgrowth of yeast can lead to infections which can be either local (present in one area of the body), or systemic (spread throughout the body). These yeast infections are commonly misdiagnosed as allergies or food sensitivities.
How to Calculate the Glycemic Load of Dog Food
Since carbohydrate content isn’t required to be listed on dog food packaging, how do you figure out how much is in the food? Calculating the glycemic load of a food is simple. Just look at the guaranteed analysis on the bag and add the total percentage of fat, moisture, protein, and ash (Ash is usually between 5-8%; use 7% if not listed). Once you’ve added these numbers, subtract that total from 100%.
- Ex: 11% fat + 12% moisture + 35% protein + 7% ash = 65
Now calculate 100 – 65 = Glycemic load of 35%
Glycemic Load Levels:
High – 20+ glycemic load
Medium – 11-19 glycemic load
Low – 0-10 glycemic load
How Can You Find a Low-Glycemic Dog Food?
Since carbohydrates are necessary for dry kibble production, finding one with a low glycemic load can be difficult. An excellent choice for the lowest possible GL would be to feed a raw diet as they don’t require any starch for production. Feeds’n Needs is proud to offer Big Country Raw pet food at all our retail locations. Another option is to choose a food high in protein and fat, such as Acana or Orijen pet foods. The high amount of protein helps prevent your dog’s blood glucose and insulin levels from spiking. Choosing a food with the lowest possible glycemic load can prevent many potential health concerns, so it’s worth taking the extra time to calculate the percentage when looking into a new food for your dog.
If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! You now have a better understanding of the complexity of hidden sugars in dog food. Having this knowledge is critical to making informed decisions when it comes to choosing a food that is best for your pet and their health. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to chat with one of our experts about our different food options and let us help you choose the perfect one for your canine companion!
Eager to learn more about pet health and nutrition? Check out these blogs!
Benefits of a Raw Diet
Pet Obesity Awareness
Pet Seasonal Allergies
Sources:
Healthy Foods for Diabetic Dogs | Dogabetix
Do Dogs Need Carbs? | Dog Food Advisor
Hidden Sugars in Dog Food: The Silent Health Threat – Human & Pets (humanandpets.com)
Is The Sugar in Your Dogs Food Slowly Killing Them? (acabonacfarms.com)
How Hidden Sugars In Your Dog’s Food Are Making Them Sick (theluckypup.com)
Low-Glycemic Dog Food by Canine Nutritionist | The Canine Nutritionist
Importance of Fiber in a Horses Diet
Why is Fiber Important in a Horse’s Diet
Fiber is one of the most important components of a horse’s diet, and as an equine owner, it is essential to understand why. Let’s take a look at why it is important and what can happen if your horse isn’t getting enough fiber in their diet:
Why Do Horses Need Fiber – Fiber provides up to 70% of a horse’s energy needs while maintaining gut health and encouraging natural grazing behaviors.
Daily Fiber Requirements – While no daily fiber requirement has been established for horses, nutritionists recommend feeding a minimum of 1.5% of your horse’s body weight in dry forage to maximize their fiber intake.
Different Types of Fiber – There are many different types of fiber in the equine diet, each with varying nutritional profiles and degrees of hindgut fermentation. These include lignin, pectins, gums, cellulose and hemicellulose.
Sources of Fiber – Horses mainly get their daily fiber requirements from forages like hay and pasture grass; however, fiber can also be obtained from processed forage products like beet pulp and soybean hulls.
Fiber Deficiency in Horses – A horse’s gastrointestinal tract is a huge, complex organ. Insufficient fiber intake can lead to severe issues such as hindgut acidosis, gastric ulcers, dehydration, colic, stereotypic behaviours, etc.
As fellow animal lovers, we know that your horse’s health and well-being are top priorities, which is why we are committed to providing our customers with the best quality feed and forage products. Stop by your local Feeds‘n Needs to check out our line of premium horse feeds and accessories; your horse will thank you!
Check out our other horse-related blogs here:
Maintaining Your Horses Health
Deworming Your Horse
Horses Hoof and Skin Health
