Here’s a quick and easy recipe for delicious homemade cranberry sauce! Whether hosting a holiday dinner or just bringing a side dish, this sauce made with fresh whole cranberries will surely impress. Check out the recipe below!
Ingredients:
⅔ cup sugar
⅓ cup light brown sugar, tightly packed
⅓ cup water
⅔ cup orange juice
12 oz cranberries rinsed and picked through — bad/bruised cranberries removed
Instructions
Combine sugars, water, and orange juice in a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat. Stir occasionally until sugars are dissolved, and bring to a boil.
Add cranberries and return to a boil.
Reduce heat to a simmer and continue to cook cranberries, stirring occasionally, 10-15 minutes or until all or most berries have burst (careful, there is some splatter) and the mixture is slightly reduced. The longer you cook your cranberries, the thicker your mixture will be, but it will also thicken up after standing.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl and allow it to cool for at least 20 minutes at room temperature.
Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.
How Do You Make Cranberry Sauce Thicker?
When cooking your cranberry sauce, you can simmer it as long as needed after your berries burst until the desired thickness is reached. Remember that your sauce will seem runnier while it’s hot and thickens as it cools and sets.
Can Cranberry Sauce Be Made in Advance?
Yes! Cranberry sauce requires a minimum of 2 hours in the refrigerator to thicken and set properly. However, you can make this holiday side dish up to a week in advance. Just be sure to store it in an airtight container.
And that’s all there is to making homemade cranberry sauce. Enjoy!
Your Complete Cat Food Buying Guide
Your feline friends are an important part of your family, so why not feed them like your family too? Buying the correct type of food can lead to a longer, happier, and healthier life for your cat. To help with your complete cat food buying guide, we’ve put together some key details below to keep in mind!
Life Stages
Kittens and adult cats have very different nutritional needs. Look for life stage descriptions when reading labels. If the label says “complete and balanced for all stages of life,” that particular food is safe for a kitten and adult cat. You’ll also find cat food designed only for “adult maintenance,” which is meant only for adult or senior cats. Kitten food will be made for “growth and reproduction” as it generally has more protein, fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. The higher amount of nutrients helps with proper growth and a healthy weight.
Ingredients
When buying cat food, it’s important to read through the ingredients. Protein, such as chicken, tuna, salmon, turkey, etc., should be within the top three ingredients, as they are listed in order by weight. Cats get their nutritional requirements from meat sources, so their diet must be meat-based. Flavour is also an essential factor. Look for food with specific proteins listed, such as beef or chicken, over generic terms like “meat-flavoured,” as cats aren’t fond of plant-based flavours and thrive on a diet consisting primarily of meat. When choosing the “right” flavour for your cat, chicken is the most popular choice as it is incredibly gentle on a cat’s digestive tract and is often enhanced with essential nutrients that improve their health. Another option is turkey. Like chicken, turkey-flavoured cat food is also easily digested. Every flavour comes with its own set of benefits; for example, fish-flavoured food should contain a healthy dose of Omega 3s.
Whether you should choose grain-free food for your cat is debatable. Grains contain carbohydrates, which your cat can use as an energy source. If you do choose to feed your cat grain-free due to allergies, their food can still be full of other carbohydrates, such as potatoes, for an extra energy source.
Specialty Food
There are many different cat food options available that help with health conditions. Premium cat food companies, such as Hills Science Diet and Royal Canin, have created specialty formulas that help cats battle mild health conditions, including urinary care, hairballs, sensitive stomach, and weight control. Consult with your veterinarian before putting your cat on a regimen of these kinds of cat food.
Dry Food vs. Canned Wet Food
When it comes to types of cat food, you have two options: wet and dry. Wet food is recommended for felines who show a lack of interest in drinking directly from the bowl. However, too much wet food intake can cause them to gain excess bulk, resulting in various health complications. On the other hand, dry food improves oral hygiene and costs less than its wet counterpart. Both dry and wet cat food have pros and cons.
Dry Cat Food:
Pros
- Less expensive
- Can be left out all-day
Cons
- Less moisture
- Less protein
- More carbs
Wet Cat Food:
Pros
- High moisture content
- More Protein
- Fewer carbs
Cons
- Easily spoils if left out
- More expensive
We recommend feeding your feline a combination of dry and wet food—dry food to keep costs down and wet supplies to help increase palatability. Mixed feeding is also beneficial because it’ll prevent your cat from developing a strict taste for a specific diet.
You now know what to look for when buying cat food. The next step is to work with your veterinarian to ensure the food you plan to purchase is appropriate for your cat’s needs. Cats’ dietary needs can vary depending on breed, life stage, and medical history.
Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to find a wide range of different cat food brands and formulas! Our experts are here to help answer any questions you may have.
For more information on your cat’s health, check out our other blogs!
Pet Obesity Awareness
Benefits of a Raw Diet
Hidden Sugars in Dog Food
How Hidden Sugar in Your Dog’s Food Can Affect Their Health
Did you know that there is a hidden ingredient in most processed dog foods that can seriously affect their health? That’s right, your dog may be consuming large amounts of sugar and starch without you even realizing it! In this blog, we will uncover the truth about hidden sugar in dog food and its impact on pet’s health.
The Role of Starch in Processed Dog Foods
According to AAFCO (Association of Food Control Officials), there is no minimum amount of carbohydrates required for dog food, and this is because they are not required for your dog’s health. So, if this is the case, why would pet food companies still put starch in their processed kibble? The answer is simple – it’s necessary for the process used to produce the kibble. When exposed to heat and moisture, starch gelatinizes and helps to bind the food together when it’s made into its final form.
The Hidden Ingredient – Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates are sugar molecules that come in the form of sugars (simple carbohydrates), starch, and fibre. When carbohydrates are eaten, the digestive system breaks them down into glucose. Glucose is sugar in the blood which the body can use for energy.
Understanding The Glycemic Load
The glycemic load of food refers to how much that food will raise blood sugar levels after it is eaten. When the glycemic load of food is high, it can cause a rapid spike in blood sugar levels, which triggers the production of insulin in the pancreas. Insulin is produced to move sugar from the blood into cells, which lowers blood glucose levels. The speed at which food is digested can impact how quickly blood glucose levels spike, triggering insulin production. It’s worth noting that carbohydrates may be digested slower if the food is high in protein and fat, meaning that blood sugar won’t rapidly spike, and insulin won’t be produced.
The Impact of a High Glycemic Load
Insulin Spikes & Obesity – As we previously discussed, when your pet eats food with a high glycemic load, it can cause a rapid spike in blood glucose levels, leading to insulin production. Insulin works to lower blood glucose levels by moving sugar from the blood and into the cells of the body, where it can be used for energy or stored as fat to be used later. Over time, eating high glycemic foods can increase blood glucose levels to be higher than your dog needs for energy, and will end up being stored as fat that is never used. This can lead to obesity and, in severe cases, can lead to insulin resistance and diabetes.
Gut Health – Harmful bacteria thrive on sugar, so when your dog eats a high-carbohydrate diet, these harmful bacteria can start to outnumber the good bacteria. This imbalance of bacteria can lead to many issues like leaky gut syndrome, autoimmune diseases, and malnutrition. Since the good bacteria in your dog’s body are responsible for making many vitamins and minerals in the intestines, when harmful bacteria outnumber the good, it can cause malnutrition, despite your dog eating a healthy amount of food in a day.
Yeast Infections – Yeast, a type of fungus, also thrives on sugar, so when your dog eats a high-carb diet causing an imbalance of bacteria, it can cause the yeast to colonize and grow out of control. This overgrowth of yeast can lead to infections which can be either local (present in one area of the body), or systemic (spread throughout the body). These yeast infections are commonly misdiagnosed as allergies or food sensitivities.
How to Calculate the Glycemic Load of Dog Food
Since carbohydrate content isn’t required to be listed on dog food packaging, how do you figure out how much is in the food? Calculating the glycemic load of a food is simple. Just look at the guaranteed analysis on the bag and add the total percentage of fat, moisture, protein, and ash (Ash is usually between 5-8%; use 7% if not listed). Once you’ve added these numbers, subtract that total from 100%.
- Ex: 11% fat + 12% moisture + 35% protein + 7% ash = 65
Now calculate 100 – 65 = Glycemic load of 35%
Glycemic Load Levels:
High – 20+ glycemic load
Medium – 11-19 glycemic load
Low – 0-10 glycemic load
How Can You Find a Low-Glycemic Dog Food?
Since carbohydrates are necessary for dry kibble production, finding one with a low glycemic load can be difficult. An excellent choice for the lowest possible GL would be to feed a raw diet as they don’t require any starch for production. Feeds’n Needs is proud to offer Big Country Raw pet food at all our retail locations. Another option is to choose a food high in protein and fat, such as Acana or Orijen pet foods. The high amount of protein helps prevent your dog’s blood glucose and insulin levels from spiking. Choosing a food with the lowest possible glycemic load can prevent many potential health concerns, so it’s worth taking the extra time to calculate the percentage when looking into a new food for your dog.
If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! You now have a better understanding of the complexity of hidden sugars in dog food. Having this knowledge is critical to making informed decisions when it comes to choosing a food that is best for your pet and their health. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to chat with one of our experts about our different food options and let us help you choose the perfect one for your canine companion!
Eager to learn more about pet health and nutrition? Check out these blogs!
Benefits of a Raw Diet
Pet Obesity Awareness
Pet Seasonal Allergies
Sources:
Healthy Foods for Diabetic Dogs | Dogabetix
Do Dogs Need Carbs? | Dog Food Advisor
Hidden Sugars in Dog Food: The Silent Health Threat – Human & Pets (humanandpets.com)
Is The Sugar in Your Dogs Food Slowly Killing Them? (acabonacfarms.com)
How Hidden Sugars In Your Dog’s Food Are Making Them Sick (theluckypup.com)
Low-Glycemic Dog Food by Canine Nutritionist | The Canine Nutritionist
Importance of Fiber in a Horses Diet
Why is Fiber Important in a Horse’s Diet
Fiber is one of the most important components of a horse’s diet, and as an equine owner, it is essential to understand why. Let’s take a look at why it is important and what can happen if your horse isn’t getting enough fiber in their diet:
Why Do Horses Need Fiber – Fiber provides up to 70% of a horse’s energy needs while maintaining gut health and encouraging natural grazing behaviors.
Daily Fiber Requirements – While no daily fiber requirement has been established for horses, nutritionists recommend feeding a minimum of 1.5% of your horse’s body weight in dry forage to maximize their fiber intake.
Different Types of Fiber – There are many different types of fiber in the equine diet, each with varying nutritional profiles and degrees of hindgut fermentation. These include lignin, pectins, gums, cellulose and hemicellulose.
Sources of Fiber – Horses mainly get their daily fiber requirements from forages like hay and pasture grass; however, fiber can also be obtained from processed forage products like beet pulp and soybean hulls.
Fiber Deficiency in Horses – A horse’s gastrointestinal tract is a huge, complex organ. Insufficient fiber intake can lead to severe issues such as hindgut acidosis, gastric ulcers, dehydration, colic, stereotypic behaviours, etc.
As fellow animal lovers, we know that your horse’s health and well-being are top priorities, which is why we are committed to providing our customers with the best quality feed and forage products. Stop by your local Feeds‘n Needs to check out our line of premium horse feeds and accessories; your horse will thank you!
Check out our other horse-related blogs here:
Maintaining Your Horses Health
Deworming Your Horse
Horses Hoof and Skin Health
Fall Wild Bird Feeding
As cool, crisp temperatures slowly return, you might notice increased activity at your seed feeders. This is the perfect time to let your winter birds know your yard is their go-to spot! How do you adjust your bird-feeding routine for the season? We have some fall feeding tips to keep your local birds happy and healthy throughout the season.
What’s the Best Food for Fall Bird Feeding?
While many feeder birds will gravitate to a variety of food in the wild, once cool weather hits, those same birds will start looking for food that’s easy to get and packed with energy.
Select the Right Seeds: Many seed types are available for your bird feeders. The best fall-feeding options are those with a lot of protein, such as sunflower seeds, Nyjer seeds, peanuts, and safflower seeds. If you buy mixed seeds, look for those with high percentages of sunflower seeds, nuts, and safflower seeds inside. These seeds will give birds a high-quality source of sustained energy to withstand cooler weather or to help fly long distances.
Suet Cakes Deliver: With the right bird feeder, suet can be a valuable addition to your autumn bird-feeding efforts. Birds can pick it apart to build up their own fat reserves. While many suet cakes can spoil in warm weather, they’re perfect for fall and winter feeding.
Keep Feeders Full and the Birdbath Warm
Did you know that birds that don’t migrate during the winter assess and re-assess their fall and winter options all summer? They take note of where full feeders are for cold winter nights. Set up your feeders in a safe location and keep them full so those birds recognize your yard as a reliable source of food. Birds will remember and avoid returning if you leave a feeder empty for over a few days. When winter hits, they’ll fly right by your yard, looking for cold-weather fuel elsewhere.
Birds also need water to drink and bathe in all seasons. If you add a water feature like a birdbath to your yard, it will become even more attractive to birds. Fresh, clean water is a must, so the water needs to be changed every couple of days. If your fall weather is cold enough, consider switching to a heated birdbath to keep the water from freezing.
Watch Out for Squirrels
Autumn is a foraging time for squirrels. You can prevent access to your feeder by using a squirrel-proof bird feeder. You can also distract them with their own food. Set up a squirrel feeder far away from your bird feeder.
Want more wild bird-feeding tips? Expand your bird knowledge with our many bird blogs.
Keep Backyard Birds Healthy in Winter
How to Properly Store Bird Seed
Keep Feeding Areas Clean and Maintained
Best Winter Bird Feeders
Winter Backyard Bird Enthusiasts
Fall Bulb Planting
You might feel like the gardening season is winding down, but an excellent fall task is to plant bulbs so they can thrive from winter chilling and get their roots started before spring warmth helps them emerge. Certain spring flowers are called “dormant perennials.” They need the cool, moist autumn soil to awaken them from their dormancy so they can begin growing roots in preparation for the spring show. You can even plant a few vegetable bulbs in the fall that will thrive in the early summer with this extra growing time. This blog covers what you need to know to start your fall bulb planting!
When to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
The best time to plant fall bulbs is when soils are below 15°C in the late fall or about six weeks before a hard frost is expected. This is usually during September and October (Halloween is a reasonable deadline to set).
How to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
Planting bulbs is generally an easy task, but there are some things that you want to get right. Here are tips to keep in mind:
- Bulbs need at least partial sun throughout the spring. They look beautiful growing beneath trees (before the trees leaf out), amidst wildflowers, and mixed with spring annuals in containers.
- Bulbs need a spot with good drainage, or they may rot. Before planting, work a few inches of compost into the soil for nutrients and drainage, especially if you have heavy clay soil. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
- Plant bulbs with the point facing up! Examine bulbs carefully before placing them in the planting hole, being sure to set them with the roots facing down.
- Consider the bloom time for each bulb (early spring, mid-spring, late spring) and plant bulbs with different bloom times so that you have flowers throughout spring!
- Place shorter bulbs in the front of beds and borders.
- Plant bulbs generously in case some do not sprout (or are devoured by hungry squirrels). Plant them randomly and with varied spacing for a more natural appearance.
Best Bulbs to Plant in the Fall
- Daffodils
- Crocuses
- Snowdrops
- Tulips
- Hyacinths
- Irises
- Alliums (Ornamental Onions)
- Garlic
- Shallot
For more gardening tips, visit your local Feeds’n Needs and chat with one of our Experts!
Tips for Hiking With Your Dog
Going hiking with your dog is a fantastic way to get exercise, bond with your canine companion, and enjoy the beauty of nature. To ensure you have a fun and safe hike, you should know a few things before you hit the trails. In this blog, we’re sharing our top tips for hiking with your dog!
Research Trails Before You Go
Before you set out on your hike, it’s important to do some research before you go. Make sure that the trail you have chosen to hike is dog-friendly, and if so, know their leash laws. While most trails do allow dogs, many of them still require that dogs remain leashed at all times. We also recommend looking into any potential hazards that you may encounter on the trail, such as toxic or irritating plants like poison ivy or foxtails, as well as any wild animals that are known to inhabit the area.
Pre-Condition Your Dog
If you have a particular hike you want to tackle with your dog, make sure that they will be up for the challenge. Consider things like your dog’s age, breed, health and fitness level and use your best judgement to determine whether your dog is fit to go on a hike with you. If you have a goal in mind to complete a certain hike that your dog may not be ready for yet, pre-condition them by starting with shorter, easier hikes and slowly working your way up to longer, more challenging hikes with them.
Stay On-Trail and be Respectful
While hiking, it’s important to respect the wildlife and nature around you by staying on the marked trail. Keep your dog on a leash or 15-20″ long line to ensure that you are always in control of them when passing fellow hikers or in the event they encounter a wild animal. Allowing your dog to run free off the trail can disrupt fragile ecosystems and potentially damage endangered plants while also putting your dog at risk of encountering a predator. Always remember that the trail is a shared place, so be respectful and enjoy it!
*Expert Tip—Consider adding a bell to your dog’s collar or leash to signal your presence to fellow hikers and nearby wildlife, especially when hiking in the fall when bears and other predators are known to be more active.
Bring Lots of Water and Snacks
Hiking can be hard work, especially during the warmer months when heat stroke is a serious concern for active dogs outdoors. No matter the season, bringing fresh water on your hike is essential to keep you and your pet hydrated. Stop often on your hike to offer your dog some water and a snack to help them maintain their stamina and praise them for being a great hiking buddy! Collapsible dog bowls are perfect for taking on a hike, and many of them have a clip to attach to your hiking pack! Don’t allow your dog to drink from any puddles or streams along the hike, as they can be contaminated with things like giardia and blue-green algae, which can be harmful. Only allow them to drink the water you brought with you. Another important thing to remember is to not feed your dog a large meal right before or after hiking, as it can cause bloat. Feed them at least one hour before or 30 minutes after the hike to prevent stomach upset.
Leave No Trace
Being respectful of the environment also includes cleaning up after your dog. Make sure to pack lots of poop bags and properly dispose of waste in a garbage can. Canine waste can be harmful to ecosystems if not picked up, so it’s important to always clean up and leave the land as you found it.
First Aid Checks
Be on the safe side and prepare for every scenario by packing a first aid kit for your dog to take with you on the hike. Include things like gauze bandages, antiseptic wipes, tweezers, and a tick remover in your kit. If you’re travelling further away for your hike, research the local veterinarians in that area so that in case of an emergency, you’ll know where to go. While hiking, remember to regularly check in with your dog and ensure they’re still doing okay. When you finish your hike, take time to do a thorough look over your dog, checking for things like scratches, lacerations, paw injuries, ticks, etc.
Hiking Gear for Dogs
Last but not least, there are a few pieces of equipment you may want to consider bringing with you on your hike: Boots to protect your dog’s paws from hot pavement or rough terrain, a cooling vest or bandana to help keep them from overheating on the hike, and an up-to-date pet ID tag to put on their collar in the event they get separated from you on the trail.
Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to get geared up for your hike with your trusty companion; we have everything you need, from dog boots and poop bags to water bottles and high protein treats to keep their energy up on the trail! Be safe and happy hiking!
Sources:
6 Tips For Hiking with Your Dog | Canada Pooch
10 Tips for Hiking with Your Dog – Showit Blog (happyhoundsdogtraining.ca)
10 Trail Tips for Hiking With Dogs | Fear Free Happy Homes
10 Tips for Camping and Hiking with a Dog | Therm-a-Rest Blog (thermarest.com)
Hiking With Your Dog In Nova Scotia : The Do’s & Don’ts | EAST COAST DOG
5 Essential Tips for Hiking with Your Dog This Fall: A Guide to Safe & Scenic Trails – Em & Me Studio (emandmestudio.com)
10 Common Backyard Birding Mistakes
Attracting birds to your yard can be entertaining and fun, but common mistakes can prevent birds from coming to your feeders. Simple, overlooked mistakes can prevent you from enjoying the entertainment of a variety of feathered friends. Here are 10 common backyard birding mistakes that people make:
- Forgetting to Provide Water
Birds rely on both food and water for survival. Having a water source for them to drink and bathe along with food will make your backyard the ideal location for your feathered friends. Birdbaths placed near feeders will attract more birds to the area. Even in the winter, birds still need a water source. Use a heated birdbath to keep the water from freezing in the cooler months. - Irregular Cleaning of Feeders
Feeders should be cleaned thoroughly at least every two weeks, and more often in wet weather. This is especially true for open platform feeders, which should be cleaned weekly all year round. Hummingbird feeders should be cleaned weekly. Regular cleaning can help prevent bacteria from growing, which is harmful to birds. Take apart your feeder and use hot soapy water to clean thoroughly. Make sure to rinse well after cleaning. - Not Changing Out Seed
Change the seed in a dry seed feeder every 5-7 days to avoid mold, bacteria, or bugs in the feeders. Always wash your hands after handling bird supplies and feeders. If feeders are left empty for long periods, birds will look elsewhere for their next meal. - Not Feeding the Birds in the Winter
Not all birds migrate, and the ones that stick around in the winter become reliant on regular food sources from backyards. Never put away your feeder in the winter, as natural food sources are more limited during the colder months. Change up the food type you provide to black oil sunflower seeds, suet, or fruit and nut blends for energy for the birds to stay warm. - Using Dye in Your Hummingbird Feeders
For hummingbirds, use clear nectar with red hummingbird feeders. Colored dye can be harmful to these little birds. You can even make sugar water (equal parts sugar and water) that they will enjoy or plant a specific flower that attracts hummingbirds. - Not Providing Shelter
Birds need natural shelter from shrubs, trees, and bushes to give them somewhere to feel safe from predators. - Keeping Bird Feeders to Close to Your House
If a feeder is too close to windows or the sides of a house, it could cause harm to a bird if they fly into a window. Birds might also avoid feeders if they are too close to people. Keep some distance between your bird feeders and your home. - Not Targeting the Birds You Want to See
If there is a specific bird you want to see in your yard, include that bird’s favorite food to target them. Visit your local Feeds’n Needs to check out our Wild Bird Chart to learn more about what food specific birds enjoy. - Feeding Bread to Birds
Birds get energy from a balanced diet of protein-packed seeds, bugs, nuts, and fruits. Do not feed birds bread, as it only provides them with empty calories. - Not Having Birdhouses or Nesting Areas
Birdhouses, shrubs, and trees are great for nesting birds in the springtime. Most birds return to the same nesting spot – if you make a good one, you’ll have birds for years to come.
Feeds’n Needs is your one-stop destination for all the essentials to keep your backyard feathered friends happy! You’ll find that feeding the birds is even more rewarding when you join our Wild Bird Seed Club and start earning $10 off after every $200 you spend on bird seed. Stop into your local Feeds’ n Needs and ask one of our Experts for details on the loyalty program and how you can get started feeding the birds!
Are you looking for more information about wild birds? Check out our other blogs:
Keeping Feeding Areas Clean and Maintained
How to Properly Store Bird Seed
Feeding Wild Birds in Winter
Keep Backyard Birds Healthy in Winter
Keeping Backyard Birds Hydrated
Fall Lawn Care Tips
You’ve worked hard maintaining your lawn all summer, and now the fall season is right around the corner. Lawn care doesn’t stop once the weather gets colder; in fact, there are lots of things you can do to prepare your lawn for the winter months and help it thrive as soon as spring arrives! This blog covers our top 7 fall lawn care tips!
- Mow Your Lawn Shorter – As the temperature starts to drop in the fall, lawn growth slows down. To avoid grass from becoming matted, which can lead to mold over the winter, cut your grass short when you do your final mow of the season (late October – early November). Cut it down to 1.5″ – 2.5″ at most, as this length will prevent matting while ensuring your grass can continue to photosynthesize.
- Clean Up Leaves & Debris – As the leaves begin to fall in autumn, they may cover your lawn and block sunlight and nutrients from reaching the grass beneath them. We recommend raking up any areas with thick leaf coverage on your lawn, as well as cleaning up any sticks, garden tools, etc., that may be lying around. If left to decay on your lawn over the winter, leaves can become a soggy, gross mess, so it’s best to get rid of them in the fall.
- Dethatch – “Thatch” is a layer of tangled grass, roots, leaves and other organic material that builds up over time, forming a layer between the soil and your actively growing grass. If left unbothered, thatch can make it difficult for new grass to grow and block nutrients from reaching healthy grass roots. Use a rake to gently scratch the top layer of soil on your lawn, pulling up the thatch layer in the process. Dethatching your lawn in the fall will make it much easier for new grass to start growing in the spring.
- Water Your Lawn – As the weather turns colder in the fall, it’s easy to forget to keep watering your lawn. While growth slows down in the fall, the roots of your grass are still growing and developing and need water to remain healthy! Since you don’t have to worry about heat evaporation in the fall, your lawn doesn’t need to be watered as often as it would in the summer. If rainfall isn’t enough to keep it watered, water your lawn with at least a half inch of water once per week to prevent it from getting too dry.
- Apply a Fall Fertilizer – Fertilizing your lawn in the fall will deliver nutrients to your grass, helping it to develop stronger roots and profound root growth. Excess nutrients will be stored over the winter so when spring arrives, your lawn can tap into these stored nutrients to help it start growing again. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen in the fall; instead, choose one with higher phosphorus and potassium levels, which help with root development and growth. Our experts recommend applying a 6-12-12 or 10-10-10 fertilizer in the fall, around 6 weeks before the ground freezes, for best results in the spring.
- Aerate – Aeration is the process of creating thousands of tiny holes in your lawn to break up compacted soil, allow oxygen flow, and encourage root growth. Compacted soil stores moisture and prevents drainage, which can eventually lead to problems like root rot and fungal issues. Aerating your lawn before overseeding in the fall allows the new seed to settle deep within the soil and start growing strong roots.
- Overseed Your Lawn – Overseeding is a great way to fill in any thin or bare spots on your lawn. When you overseed in the fall before the ground freezes, the seeds will have the chance to germinate and start growing strong roots so that when the snow melts in the spring, new grass will be ready to sprout! We recommend seeding your lawn in early fall (mid-August to late September) before it gets too cold to ensure your seed can germinate. Stop by your local Feeds’n Needs to grab a bag of lawn seed today!
By putting in the extra work in the fall, you’ll ensure a beautiful, healthy lawn in the spring, which you can enjoy for longer! Feeds’n Needs is your go-to store for lawn seed, fertilizer, and more. Stop in today and talk to one of our experts about how you can take your lawn care to the next level!
For more expert lawn care advice, check out these similar posts:
Overseeing Your Lawn in Spring
How to Maintain a Healthy Lawn
Basic Guide to Gerbil Care
Gerbils are playful and curious little animals that are easy to care for and make great pets for children. In this blog, we will provide a basic guide to gerbil care, so you have all the information you need before bringing home your tiny new companion!
Things to Consider Before Getting a Pet Gerbil
- Gerbils are very social animals and should live in pairs of 2 or more. It’s best to get littermates or adopt young gerbils of similar ages so that they can grow up together. If you already have a gerbil or pair of adult gerbils, it can be challenging to introduce a new one as they are very territorial creatures and may fight each other.
- Gerbils can reproduce quickly, so it’s best to keep only same-sex pairs together in an enclosure.
- The lifespan of a gerbil is 2 – 4 years on average.
- Adult gerbils grow to 4 inches long, with their long hairy tails adding an additional 4 inches.
Housing
Gerbils are known for their love of digging and burrowing, and a great way to nurture these natural instincts is to house your gerbils in a large glass tank or aquarium with a secure wire lid. It is recommended that 5 gallons of space be provided per gerbil. An enclosure that is 16″ wide by 30″ long and 12″ tall is the minimum size needed for a pair of gerbils.
Wire cages will also work to house gerbils. However, because of their digging habits, they may end up kicking bedding through the metal bars, making a mess. Make sure to choose a wire cage with bars narrow enough that your gerbils can’t escape through them but not so close together that they could get body parts stuck between them.
Plastic cages are not recommended for gerbils as they are easily chewed and destroyed and don’t provide adequate ventilation.
Gerbils should also have a nest box in their enclosure where they can hide out and sleep. Nest boxes should be made of sturdy materials like wood or ceramic.
Bedding
Since they love to dig and burrow, fill your gerbil’s enclosure ¾ of the way full with bedding like small animal paper bedding or aspen shavings. Avoid using pine or cedar shavings, as well as bedding that has been chemically dyed, as these can be harmful to your gerbils.
You can also add additional nesting materials like dye and scent-free toilet paper, paper towels and tissues that your gerbils can shred and build nests with. Spot-clean any soiled bedding daily, and thoroughly clean the enclosure with mild soap and hot water once weekly. Pick up some Boxo comfort paper bedding and gerbil-safe aspen shavings at Feeds’n Needs!
Food & Water
The best way to provide your gerbils with a healthy, balanced diet is to offer them quality dry food formulated for gerbils. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended feeding guide to feed your gerbils a daily portion of food. Place their daily food allowance in a ceramic or metal bowl or scatter it around their enclosure to encourage their natural foraging instincts! Fresh fruits, veggies and seeds like peas, broccoli, apples and sunflower seeds can be given as treats in limited quantities. Remove any uneaten treats after a few hours to prevent spoilage.
Your gerbils should always have access to fresh water in a sipper bottle that attaches to the side of their enclosure. Refresh their water daily, and thoroughly clean their water bottle once weekly when you clean their enclosure.
Pick up a bag of quality gerbil food, like Sunburst hamster and gerbil food, at Feeds’n Needs. While you’re there, don’t forget to grab some gerbil treats and a drinking bottle, too!
Exercise & Enrichment
Gerbils are playful and active little animals, and they need lots of enriching toys and climbing materials to keep them happy and healthy. Since their teeth never stop growing, they should always have access to things to chew on, like wooden toys, toilet paper tubes and other safe materials to wear them down. Include lots of things for them to climb and play on in their enclosure, like ramps, ladders and platforms to keep them active. Exercise wheels are another great way to keep them active and fit; choose a wheel with a solid surface in which your gerbils won’t get their tail or other body parts stuck.
Visit your local Feeds’ n Needs and check out our small animal toys and enrichment accessories selection!
Grooming
Gerbils spend a great deal of time grooming themselves and often groom their cage mates. They do not need baths; however, if your gerbil gets something in its fur and needs to be cleaned, you can use a damp cloth to gently rub the area clean.
Health Concerns
Gerbils are generally healthy animals. However, there are a few common health issues that you should be aware of:
- Injuries like broken bones or injured tail
- Digestive diseases
- Skin issues
- Seizures
- Kidney disease in adult gerbils
- Inner ear mass in adult / elderly gerbils
If you suspect your gerbil may be in poor health, please get in touch with your small animal veterinarian.
Training
Gerbils are usually quite gentle, only biting on the rare occasion that they may feel threatened. Gerbils can be easily hand-tamed using positive reinforcement techniques, often involving many treats! When you first bring your gerbil home, allow them a couple of days to settle in before you begin training them.
Now that you’ve learned all the basics of owning and caring for pet gerbils, you should be ready to bring home your new furry friend! Make Feeds’n Needs your go-to stop for all your small animal needs, and be sure to ask one of our experts any questions you may have!
If you love to learn, check out our blog. We are always adding more helpful advice, such as how-tos and DIYs: feedsnneeds.ca/experts-advice/
